Mr. Yellow
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Posts posted by Mr. Yellow
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The design/appearance really is a step down. Especially the thumb button to lock the miter and the scale plates. In terms of specification it benefits over the US model in some ways.
The US model really looks like a little pro saw whereas the EU model 'looks' much more simplistic. I dunno, just my first feeling when seeing these pictures.
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I find the sanding accessory a crappy piece of plastic. Maybe I am using it wrong, but when I use it on detailing the velcro burns up in one corner making the sanding pad come off. Maybe I'm pushing too hard, but I burned up 2 of those in a relative short period of time.
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Yes, it's a valve. They are air filled. It's a bit hard to find decent solid wheels. At least I couldn't find any.
I changed out the original axle and added a stainless threaded rod on which I bolted the wheels. Nothing was modified on the vac itself to mount them, so I can always go back, which I might, because I'm undecided if I keep it this way. But across sandy jobsites, this is better than the plastic wheels it came with.
I dunno, I just like to mess around a bit with my tools
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Just like you said. They're not expensive so you can always get a pair of plugs and try it before you convert other tools.
Think there should be a general topic dedicated to tool modifications.
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Not a fan of flames but I might add an underside exhaust
And perhaps I ditch the T-Stak in favor of a racing seat
The Neutriks are great. Ofcourse you've already seen them on several mods on the FOG. And then make a plug-it to powercon cable?
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So, recently I bought the DWV902M vac (DWV012 in US) and did a little modification and removed the cord. I have the vac rack on there and I didn't like the build in cord wrap. So I cut the cord altogether and added a Neutrik Powercon inlet on the vac and the right plug to the cord. Now I can store the cord together with the hose in the T-Stak case that sits on top.
I also thought the wheels could be a bit better...
With the front wheels I went from the standard 75x22mm to a whopping 75x40mm (really only needed them to level the vac with the new rear wheels)
Next up is to get the floor cleaning set and find a way to store them. Maybe in a T-Stak but I might add something to store the extensions on the back of the vac.
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Acme Tools.....has it for $375 with coupon code!
I never pay "Retail" for tools but for this I may have to pull the trigger!
Please post if there is a good price.....
Still looking for the Toughsystem tote at a good price.
I know Tool Barn has it but need to it at a better price. ( Cheap , Cheap, )
You should team up with PennyRicky
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Yeah, they need to have lockable sections. Might look elsewhere for a kit, but that would still require an adapter and I hate to walk away when DeWALT has a solution, but yeah... choices...options...
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BTW, is there an update coming to the DE7901 floor cleaning kit that incorporates the Airlock system?
I'm about to buy this set, but wouldn't mind not using adapters and hook it straight up.
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Well, what do you know..."Sorry, this content isn't available right now". Didn't see that one coming
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If it's any consolation, it will go down the stairs by itself!
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True. It's pricey. Can't argue there.
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I wonder if its cheaper than the original tough system cart. That thing was crazy expansive it was like 300 dollars.
But the Toughsystem cart (carrier) is from a whole different level. It's entirely from metal and also doubles as a hand truck.
Can't compare it to the T-Stak cart.
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Nice one Matt! We should get a patent before team yellow runs with it
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Recips are a pain in general. Don't like 'em. Probably never will. Can't stand the vibration it transfers to your arms.
I think they should look into adding AVC in their recip saws. And not in the handle, but between the housing and the reciprocating mechanism. Kinda like they do with their cordless sds drills. Think that could make a difference. Perform&Protect!
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In case you didn't know, Dewalt makes a dust collection unit like that. http://www.dewalt.com/tools/hammerdrills--hammers-dust-extraction-systems-dwh050k.aspx
It even has a suction cup (utilizing suction from the vac) so it will stick to a vertical wall.
They really should have released that kit (DWH050) in the small T-Stak so you can take advantage of it with the vac rack.
I'll switch mine to a T-Stak. Unfortunately it means ditching the insert.
It even works with the cordless vac
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They are not expensive indeed. Good quality. Neutrik is a key player in that area from what I know.
It's a great conversion for tools that are (mainly) used with the vac, like a tracksaw or router.
I've thought about it before, but I didn't had a vac then. Might consider doing it with my tracksaw and then customize a hose with a lead and a wraparound sleeve.
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Here's some more info about people doing the same with these plugs...
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/why-again-are-plug-it-110v-convos-naina!
meanwhile in Russia...
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That's where I buy them from. But any shop specialized in audio/lighting equipment should have them. They are widely used in that area.
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They do male/female connectors, inlet/outlet connectors and some accessories.
http://www.neutrik.com/en/industrial/powercon/powercon/powercon-true1/
If you go this route, it's best to stick with these. I read that a lot of those (in general) powercons cannot be connected/disconnected under load/live whereas with the True1 stuff you can. And it's IP65 rated as well. Aaaand it's yellow!
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You use them also?
I came across them last year or so when I found out about some guy modifying his Mafell tools with these Neutrik True1 plugs. Something similar to Festool's Plug-it system.
And they are the perfect color also. Win-win
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What about cutting the cord...
If the hose can fit in the T-Stak so can the cord. No more pesky cord wrapping
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Got the tabs mounted. It works perfectly. Click in place and it's locked.
I hadn't opened up the left side earlier, but there is a metal plate behind it. Maybe that's the aerial...?
I've highlighted the place where you need to cut a small portion of the rib (also on the right side of the radio) to allow the nut on the inside of the cover to 'sink' into, because the underside of the cover sits flat on those ribs.
What I did was first lining everything up; bracket and tab and drill the hole in the cover (with the cover being off) and then put the cover on the radio and drill a tiny bit to mark the place to be cut. Cut it out with some cutting pliers and you're good to go.
Easy, cheap and looks like an authentic solution
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@ Locksmithmatt
They are great. Think I'll get me a couple more of those DS100's.
I like the 1st photo, but the 2nd one is the best I think. Also, because in photo 1, you have to cut the corner from the tab, on the right side to make the holes line up. This gives like 8mm play between the bracket and tab. It's ok, but I rather have it a bit more tight.
I don't even know how much play there normally is with the cases, but it ain't much. You need some though.
Just take a bracket, put it on the radio and then keep the tab on there and you'll see what I mean
Oh, and don't forget to cut off the nipple. It will slide on much easier then and there is no need for it anyway with the tabs mounted.
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My tools / ToughSystem Racking
in Dewalt
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Just upgraded my DCV582 cordless vac with Airlock connectivity.
Put the DWV9000 airlock connector on the hose and then used a DVW9130 adapter on which I mounted the original endpiece.
Only had to cut about 10mm from one end of the 9130 so it would fit inside the 'hose end' of the standard endpiece. Only took a little turn to the left to fasten it. Haven't had to use any glue. That was a nice surprise
DWV9130