tooljoe

so i bought me an open item 12v tool kit from amazon and discovered why the open item may have been returned to amazon. the 12v charger was not working...me being me, i decided to take a peek and discovered that a resistor was soldered on backwards....in the picture, the charger on the right is the good charger...just sharing to show that a percentage of bad assembly goes out the door sometimes. to view full size picture, on firefox, right click select "view image"...then click on picture.

i suggest you take a high resolution picture of the circuit board of the port that is bad and post it here http://www.dslreports.com/forum/electronics ....those electronic experts are willing to help. if you ask right and have patience and drive...they will teach you or try to help you at least. i am a lurker of that sub forum...and i have seen a guy go from newbie to advance...he still asks questions there. bare in mind, you will need the basic electronic tools though...if you don't have them, you will have to spent money to troubleshoot. the price for the electronics tool may be more than to maybe buy another charger though... 2 cents.

thanks...i few questions... 1- how do you calculate what hours? 2- how do you know the full technology of the battery? this may be new for 2013. the whole serial in the battery is UR18650RX Q50B 3- could it be a new battery based on sanyo technology mixed with panasonic technology? E.G. i see this graph as new technology based on sanyo and panasonic combined to come up with a new battery..but i am not good at graphs though...but e.g. just curious, thanks.

that is an aluminum heat sink at the bottom and the battery shell has vent holes at the bottom too. that alone tell me that it gets hot. if you are familiar with CPU/GPU over clocking...things that one can get more performance out of them, need a heat sink. at least that is what that heat sink means to me. i don't know if other battery pack have vent holes that have the same battery...if they don't, using this same battery...i guess dewalt is thinking more of longevity...IMO.

these are the measurements of the handle.... all the way opened = 38.50mm/1.397in (although it can be opened further a few more mm) all the way closed = 37.10mm/1.460in in my opinion, it will...here are the measurements to check yourself.

i've been wanting to open up the battery pack but i have not had time....today i did though. from the numbers i saw on that battery it looks like it's a panasonic battery...though on the side of this picture it says "copyright 2012 sanyo"...i am just posting pics. here are the numbers on the battery...

my old 18v drill chuck fits it nicely...

to view full picture, right click and select view image on firefox..then click on picture.

so i went to home depot and they only had 3 left of dcd790d2...and they where not even on display...anyways...i have it and i will take it apart tomorrow and post pictures here...

here is another video i stumbled upon that you may find interesting... ! if i wanted to get things done faster, the electronics would be the least of my worries.

their year old brushless impact is holding great. plus the controller for the brushless is covered with electronics epoxy to protect it from the outside nature (on left in picture) also, most modern electronics are covered in a thin layer of clear electronic epoxy...not everyone does this because it is an extra expense but i would guess in drills that are top brand and expensive, that also are used out doors...this would be a requirement (like the picture shows). of course, you are not going to use it under the rain. a car can be driven in the rain and with stand going over puddles...but big puddles..all scars may stall and burn something. cars have electronics too. so in all, i think you should not even worry about the electronics. they will last a life time. they also have a 90 day money back...and i believe two years on the drill/driver...not sure, watch this here...

i'm exited for the drivers...my hands on their first brushless drill/drivers. first generation..gets me a little excited. i was going to buy Milwaukee 12v fuel but i will buy this instead. and i will do what i like to do...take them apart and look at their inner workings.

From what I understand, your average hammerdrill/driver drill use a type of marry-go-round hammering. Where the top of the merry-go-round is the chuck and the mechanical toy model horses that go up and down are attached to chuck. i.e. every time a horse goes up, the chuck is pushed up...that energy is transferred to the bit and from the bit to the material. here a pic i found on the webs hammer drill/driver... On SDS drills, I believe it does not work this way...i could be wrong though, but I believe is more of a piston action hit.. that goes up and down. Think of a piston in a car rotated by the crank. here is a pics a found on the webs SDS drill.. A marry-go-round action, although while doing thousands of blows a minute, is is not as direct of an impact as a piston moving up and down.

unfortunately i don't have a drill similar like yours so i can't help you there. good luck.

you can post pictures through an online host...i use this site since it is no hassle....http://imgur.com/ click on the button computer, select the picture you want to upload, and then copy the BBCode (message boards & forums) here... regarding the chuck freeplay movement, after further researching, i believe that the "gap" in the collar is a key feature to engage the pins...the gears spacing in between the teeth should not give you that much freeplay... for sure less than 1/16th of an inch...if you get more than that, there is a "gap" somewhere in there...the "gap" in three of my drills gives me 1/2 inch chuck play.

by looking at this video here... looks similar to your model i believe...at 2:01 i see the shaft has a potion being shaven flat on both sides...my guess is that it has a collar similar to my drill...that is what needs to be welded... here is a closer look to what i am talking about.... that gap is what is causing the freeplay of the chuck...the prefer way to get rid of that is to tack weld it...a dirty way would be to stick a small nail in there...making sure is not loose that it can come out..what i would do is find a good size wood nail, cut off the size that can fit there and jam it carefully with a chisel and hammer...your call. good luck.

if you are committed to doing this...the easiest way to go about this is to remove the pins and tack weld at the location where the arrow point too. note: this drill is not the same model you have...this is a 20v max although they may have similar innards. the way i take apart this is very very slowly and lay out the parts on the table in order so i juts put everything back in reverse. in this picture is shows where there is play between the collar and the chuck shaft so you need to tack weld and done... to recap, removing the pins no longer locks the chuck to the transmission..iow, it will turn the gears and the motor if you turn the chuck by hand (will function like a corded drill, if i can explain myself right)... the tack weld will remove the chuck freeplay...but remember, after all is done..you will be able to turn the chuck by hand because the pins act as a clutch to the chuck. hope i explain myself right.. good luck.

the movement of the chuck is due to 3 or 4 metal pins located somewhere inside the gears where the chuck shaft connects to the transmission. if you want to get rid of that movement, the only thing i can think of is by removing the pins and replacing them with metal that can fill the gaps. i don't know how will you go about doing that...though. my two cents. edit: part of the shaft is cut out like a dove tail and gives free movement too like this picture shows of a drill i have apart... right click on picture select view then zoom in to view whole resolution... conclusion, too complicated to g et rid of that movement, impossible, nope...but then who knows what will affect doing that.

i'm am not an expert so take this with a grain of salt. all my drills that i have taken apart out curiosity or to fix, all of them seem to work on the same principle regarding the torque ring. the way i can only explain it is that the ring is like a screw that pushes a spring. ... part #28 from this link... http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dcd939-type-144v-hmrdrdrilldrivedriver-parts-c-1009_9661_25052.html at 1st setting, the ring is pushing on the spring very little...at the highest setting the spring is fully compressed. now what causes the slip of the chuck is either some bearings or just washer bushings...think putting ur hands together and rubbing them...the harder you press ur hand together, the harder it is to rub them together (friction)... having said that...that is where i would put my money...maybe u dropped a bearing or just put it back wrong where the outer ring sleeve (the one with the numbers) is not compressing the spring. this drill is taken out of commission so i have it for parts...in this drill it usses a series of spring that push on bearings..(bearings ride on a metal ring that has groves) at pic 1 it is set at one and at pic 2 it is set at highest...where is locks the chuck to the transmission.

dewalt wins. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/power-tools/which-jigsaw-is-the-best-6-versatile-saws-face-off?click=pm_news#slide-3

this is my guess from what i've read.....i believe the charger uses the extra posts to balance the voltage in all cells. from my limited understanding, all cells in a pack need to have a balanced voltage.

been reading about batter tech and i believe i have a better grasp of the technology. i could not find any info about those 15b batteries just this... maybe they are new and yet to make it out in the wild. only way to get the info is to ask dewalt for .. dewalt also needs to give us 2.0AH like Milwaukee will be given to their 12v fuel line soon... "The new Milwaukee REDLITHIUMâ„¢ 2.0 batteries provide up to 2X more run-time, 20% more power and 2X more recharges than standard Lithium-Ion batteries." http://www.milwaukeetool.com/fuel/press-m12.html also, looks like bosch is getting in the brushless too and will include 2.0AH batts as well. http://www.boschtools.com/core/Pages/boschcore.aspx?WT.ac=BT_Home_Mainbanner2_Core_body

nope..standing here with my 20v max battery trying to put it in my 12v max impact...no it won't go in. but i admire the curiosity...today i tried to convert my 18v xrp hammer drill dcd950 to a 20v max drill/driver from a dcd980 premium (non hammer drill). let me tell you...i almost had it but i just need to dremel very few things to make it happen.. if all of a sudden my job requires more drill hamering, i am pretty sure i can convert my DCD950 to a DCD985...

So in real life terms, will that new battery improve in what? i am newbie to the battery technology. thanks. And in exchange for what? From my understanding... dewalt 12v max dcb120 - sanyo UR18650SAX - 25A max continuous dewalt 20v max dcb201 (1.5AH) - sanyo UR18650SWX - 20A max continuous dewalt 20v max dcb200 (3.0AH) - sanyo UR18650SW - 15A max continuous edit: i am guessing the above amp rating is per cell and of our course the 12v max has less cells than the 20 max 3.0AH. so I guess I may be answering my own question... in exchange for amp draw? IOW, longer run times while sacrificing torque for higher mAh? Or do I have that backwards? edit: this guy in amazon says the following "these are actually 1.3ah battery packs." here... http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCB120-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Battery/product-reviews/B0043XX8AY/ref=cm_cr_pr_btm_link_2/184-7780749-9435940?ie=UTF8&pageNumber=2&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

sweet deal. i payed 300 US for my 1.5ah brushless kit alone. 2.79 plus tax at my local HD.