tooljoe

i was going to sell my new dw919, but i may buy that cree diode bulb first to try it out...

well, I was playing with my 12v max impact driver and I had to take it apart to do something... well when I put it back together and screwed back the clam-shell, my drill all of a sudden developed this wobble. Like the video shows... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06jvvTqZVwc It didn't have it before so that got me a little curious as to what was causing it.... well I haven't figured that out yet, i'm not an engineer ... but it is inside the hammer assembly for sure... either the planetary gears don't align is certain areas or the something is not balanced inside... e.g. a bearing. or maybe it was designed to go in a certain way? Any how, I did managed to understand how to make the wobble stop (AKA like it was originally)... the picture speak for themselves.... just posting if someone else experiences the same issues.

nice collection

my suggestion is to grind a little off the tip of the screw... my guess would be that the screw is a hair too long and not allowing it to tighten down... that or add a washer, with a big enough hole for the screw and small enough to fit in the chuck... IMO. EDIT: i just noticed that this chuck does not have a screw to lock it in.

i'm not an expert but this sounds crazy... can you post a picture of the drill bit that broke these drills? i mean, the pull force to crack the aluminum casing and the drill shell must have at least fractured a hand bone or pull a ligament...

I was doing some repair to my drill switch today and I went ahead and took some pictures for future reference... here's two...

i would buy it in yellow.

i see what you are saying... i would have liked to see speeds one and two tested too... looked to me like they only tested speed 2 and 3. thanks for sharing.

sorry, i found the reviews sloppy.

hmmm... so you are comparing 1st gear in your bosh to 2nd gear in dewalts... I think that is what I am reading. So how does dewalt compare to your bosh both in first gear and second? IOW, you don't need to actually know the torque number just compare the two... IMO. the dewalt ends up winning in my book regardless... i mean higher RPMs, is also a hammer drill, plus that 3rd gear... wow.

I see what you are saying... I am new to understanding this technology. I read this the other day... and this... **Abundant variety of models meet wide variety of uses(UR18650 series) >F: High capacity with steady operating voltage model. >E: High current model for power applications. >Y and A: Cost performance and improved standard model by optimization of material. >L: Cost performance and robust model by optimization of material. >SA and W: Excellent power model for power tools by optimization of material and structure. >U: Long storage life and high current model. >ZT: Neo hybrid positive electrode enables higher charging voltage, which realizes further high capacity model. so I'm guessing these SAX batteries are already putting 20A draws continuous. Although, now that I think about it, what would those ZT batteries do for the longevity of the flash light that use this batt. Pack? From what I have noticed, my flash light dies faster than my drill... well, I work in dark places and use the flash light mostly continuously... i'm guessing the flashlight does not need high power but more of high capacity batteries. So what if I upgrade one pack with ZTs for the flashlight and A123 APR18650M1 for the drill?

Just out of curiosity I googled right now and makita has one. 44 ft lbs max is not bad to loosen up hard to reach small bolts... too expensive for a DIYer like myself though.

So I tested the drill on a lincoln town car and here is the video... I could not embed the video so there is the link... (javascrips needs to be enabled to view) View My Video I don't know where I placed my service manual but here is a quick link that says bellow 150 ft lb for sure... http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40378 I still went ahead and quick tested afterwards with one of these and the lugs where around 150 ft lbs. Here the parts I bought Nose Cone (646693-01) Washer - Urethane (642883-01) Cone (642886-00) Anvil (608024-00sv)

I just now heard about dw059.... 300 ft lb (3600 inch pound) is a lot more than enough to loosen up lug nuts. I used my air impact wrench to install lug nut bolts once and my air impact it's rated at 250 ft lb max. (guy I know forgot to tighten lug nuts and tire got really loose and broke off on the freeway... luckily nothing big happened. Though all the bolts broke in half). nice deal.

Ok so the parts arrive today and here is the end result.... so for 56 dollars (price includes shipping) I now have a 145 ft lb impact wrench (as a driver 110.833333 ft pounds.) I am guessing this is enough torque to loosen my auto lug nuts (will test). I saw the car manual and I know for sure the torque for them where less than 100 ft lb. That is good enough for my needs and for relatives (they always ask me to work on their cars... what can you say when they know you are handy lol). Also, I need to change front shocks and struts and this will make the job easier . also need to change front fender. (a teen t-boned me). i'm happy with my convert though....

I bought a dewalt 7 piece kit. One of the tools was the impact driver (i also own the 12max impact driver thinking of converting it too)… but I also do light mechanics and would love to own a cordless impact wrench too. I have repaired minor car accidents with my air impact wrench tools before (I have saved big money by doing my own mechanic work… biggest save was about 1400 dollars)… but where I live now is a pain to take out the compressor and air hose to even just change a flat tire. So I thought I could convert my dc825 by just buying these items only (they are in their way by the way… already bought them so I will know within 2-3 weeks) http://www.ereplacementparts.com/shopping_cart.php?cID=7401&sort=1a&osCsid=232v8atu4ovahug8rogfuoh956 Since I can take anything apart easy (I once took apart a watch for fun and put it back together) I can switch back and forth easy.

thanks, I was wondering why there is a 3rd pin in my battery packs.

i think this is the model # Model: 30041-0. (on the amazon webpage i clicked "See more technical details" and that's where i got the model number) i did a quick google and that led me to this page http://cgi.ebay.com/Li-Ion-SANYO-18650-3-7V-2-8Ah-2800mAh-Cell-30041-0-/330522127829#vi-desc and that page has a .pdf with specs for the battery wich is here http://www.all-battery.com/datasheet/30041-0_UR18650ZT.pdf and i noticed is says ZT there. thanks for the tip.

is this a ZT battery http://www.amazon.com/Li-ion-Cylindrical-2800mAh-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B004JPSS1K/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1307460687&sr=8-3-fkmr1 if it is i may grab some and upgrade my pack to see if there is anything gained.