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NERemodeling

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Posts posted by NERemodeling

  1. So i ended up buying on of these and to be honest its a pretty useful little vac!!   im digging it.. thinking about buying a second one actually

     

    its sooooo nice to grab this for quick cleanups on the job or around the house instead of dragging out the full size dust extractor or corded vac. it surprisingly has great suction.       i think it lasts about 10mins/ah so do the math.. my 3ah's give me around 30 minutes     moooore than enough time for the type of jobs your gonna use it for. 

     

    i know milwaukee is coming out with one for the m12 line in case thats your battery platform..   i would highly suggest you pull the trigger on one of them if your on the fence.. great tool!!

    • Like 1
  2. Welcome to TIA

    what will your use be?   big holes, long lags and screws, hours of use?    for most use and even lighter commercial applications the m12 will do you just fine.  i would recommend you pony up and go for the fuel models minimally in m12 though also the fuel m12 drill will get you the 1/2' chuck like m18... the difference between fuel and non fuel is crazy. absolutely worth any difference in price.       heavy and hard use you may want to go m18

  3. I love it!!  thats why plumbers get the big bucks!!

     

     we should turn this into a area thread for crazy ass things we see at work.. gotta be real though not from the internet..   ill try to see if i can find any in the next few days

  4. very cool!!  

    what did  you use for the door panels? its hard to tell in the pictures.   i thought it was v joint from the first picture but then it didnt look like that in the last 2..   are the stiles and rails 3 layer laminated with the stile to rail connection weaving together or did you use some other method?

    on the hardware, did you bolt the pulley to the bar that connects it to the door or was that attached to the pulley?  did you have to weld the "axle" bolt in place or just bolt it to the steel bar to hold it secure, then put on  the pulley and then another bolt to hold it all together?  

    what do you use for a door handle on the other side?  recessed finger hole?

    any sort of stop on the top track or floor?

    sorry for 21 questions i just really like what you did and can see myself doing something similar one day :)

  5. the m12 rotary tool is def a nice tool.

    NER let us know how it performs cutting drywalls / outlets etc

    Like I just said to Chris.. in about a week or week and a half I'll be putting it to good use with a few drywall jobs and I'll report back

  6. That's frikin awesome guys! Any chance you've used these yet?

    I haven't used it yet.. I have two drywall jobs lined up for a week from now.. It solid when you have the collar retracted most of the way back.. when you extend it out to the last 1/3 (like to reduce debt of cut) it gets a little wobbly. For drywall I won't ever have to fend it out more than 1/8 thought so it should be great!

  7. What! you can't replace the classic Homer bucket. I won't shop at a HD till they bring it back!!

    I can't imagine they are replacing the orange 5 gal bucket with this!?!? That would be stupidly ridiculous!

    it is a nice looking bucket, I'll give it that. Love the green and black but it won't replace a 5 gallon pail for me.

    • Like 1
  8. I'm pretty pumped about this because I was torn between buying the makita 18v drywall cutout tool or the m12 rotary..

    the makita would have obviously worked much better for drywall work but would have been clumsy for most other dremel tool type tasks. The m12 rotary obviously excels at all the other Dremel tasks but would have been much more difficult for drywall work without the collar. I really liked how light and compact the m12 was also... I had decided to go with the m12 rotary because I don't do a ton of sheet rock and when I did I would just use my finger as a guide but now with this I have the best of both worlds!!

  9. Thanks BigMikez,, I realyy like the look of these new tools, especially the hammer drill. Can't wait to break the cherry off of these bad boys...

    That hammer drill will make you grin ear to ear..   its badass!!

     

    nice looking bunch you got there!  looking forward to seeing the rest of the family

  10. phew!  heck of a first post!!    first off, Welcome to TIA

     

    as far as rpm, the larger blades are slowed down at the arbor because the outside edge of a 12" blade actually has to travel faster in one rotation than a 10" blade

    example:  circumference of 12" blade is 37.7"   circumference of a 10" blade is 31.4"   therefore if you made one rotation of each blade in 1 second the 12" blade at its outside edge would have to travel 37.7" in one second and the 10" blade would only have to travel 31.4' in the same 1 second...  further distance traveled in the same amount of time = faster speed      i imagine that dewalt is trying to match the tooth speed of both saws to some degree. 

     

    as for size, you have to seriously consider what your cutting needs are.. you might say that for the same price and if you dont have to move the saw around all the time (or if you dont mind moving the extra weight) you might want to go with the 12" just becasue.. im sure for your needs it wont ever hurt to have the extra capacities.  12" blades will on average cost you more than 10" to replace or sharpen if you want to consider future blade costs.

     

    the majority of saws on the market today are direct drive including the creme of the crop Festool Kapex ($1400 saw) so i really dont see that as a downside.   i think i would actually prefer direct drive in all situations.. i think it would be less wear parts and better transfer of power from the motor to the blade.   maybe a belt drive might be a little more quiet.. blade wobble whould be controled by how accurate the tolerances are on the arbor housing and bearings.   no name brand modern saw should have excessive blade wobble.. if it does i would say you got a dud and should swap it for a new one

     

    Double bevel isnt necessary, more of a convenience i guess.. at least i cant think of any cut that you couldnt make some other way but it might involve moving your material around a little bit.. 

     

    smoothness of cut is really more dependent on the tooth count, quality and sharpness of your blade.   you can spend a lot of money on blades like Forrest chopmasters but realistically you probably dont need that.. a good Diablo blade so do just fine..  another thing to consider is staying away from thin kerf blades the thicker the plate of the blade the more stable the blade will be.   miter saws work best with a blade that has a negative hook angle but that isnt necessary.    also keep your blades clean (you can buy blade cleaner)  they will stay sharp longer and cut smoother

     

    i would say your good with either the 713 or 715   just decide on what size is right for you..    

     

    i think i answered everything, if you want clarification or have other questions just shout

    • Like 2
  11. It's great that they r back, but they mentioned some staggering the videos. I don't like that kind of change.

     

    yeah.. we gotta trust these guys.    they have done great this far and im sure they arent planning on making things worse for 2015!   i would imagine that the main page will still get updates every day in some form or another.. maybe not their videos but they will keep it interesting and entertaining 

    im excited to see what they have in store!!

  12. HAHAHAHAHAHA!!    Regopit, you should put a warning at the top of that picture, here i have just taken a bit of my delicious grilled cheese lunch and i honestly almost spit it all over my computer i started laughing so hard!!    that is some funny shit man!

  13. it is the same game as 10.8 and 12v      12v tools are all actually marketed the same way 20v tools are marketed.   they are really only 10.8v         the reason this isnt such a point of confusion is because all manufacturers seemed to jump on the same boat when 12v tools went main stream so thats how we compare all of them equally.. 

     

    18v was already established and many manufacturers were well situated with their current battery design and nice product line.   dewalt decided to redesign their battery pack (first shitty thing i think they did) and at that point took advantage of the opportunity to call their new 18v design "20v" (which was the second shitty thing i think they did)   it is sort of like bringing a gun to a knife fight..   they are relying on the fact that the general population will take their word for gold and assume that their tools are actually slightly more powerful.. its all just a lie.

     

    I dont have any hate towards dewalt or others for doing this.. if i was the ceo if one of those companies i would have probably made the same call..    however i just hope that people buy dewalt tools for the actual features, specs and quality of the tool, not becasue they think they are getting a more powerful "20v'" instead of 18v..

  14. I have no doubt it's marketing, the 72 vs 80 watt claims is what makes the gears turn

     

    here is my thought

     

    if we can agree that a 20v battery is actually just an 18v with a little marketing fluff added then the same applys to the watts...   those extra "8 watts" are a direct result of the 2 extra fluff volts (on a 4ah)..  the 8 watts only exist up to the first pull of the trigger and they they are gone. 

    a makita, milwaukee etc. battery could also technically say they have 80w because they do

    the "20v" (18v) batteries really only have 72 usable watts

     

    im really not trying to argue with anyone and am fully accepting the fact that i may be wrong, im not an electrical engineer but i do think i have a pretty good understanding of this

    im just trying to make sure there is accurate information out there so people can make informed decisions about their tools. 

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