khariV
-
Posts
1,076 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
9
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by khariV
-
-
So, I went to my local HD today to pick up a few bolts and washers for a project. I remembered that someone had posted in the Deals forum that you could sometimes get killer deals by looking on the in-house terminal. I looked about and couldn't find anything other than the computer that just had the regular, internet version of their website, so I asked a guy at the pro desk what the deal was. He said he could look up a specific tool for me if there was something I was looking for, but that there wasn't really anything that was meant for the public to look for deals. I then showed him the screen shot of the deals that were posted here, at which time he said "You really can't trust what people post on the internet. There are all sorts of nutjobs that make up sales, screen shots and all sorts of scams trying to get discounts." He then declared the prices that I showed him on the HD terminal to be crazy because they were just too low and were obviously fake or from a store in some small town in Idaho where no one buys tools so things were on clearance, but regardless, I wasn't going to get those prices in civilization.
So, there you have it - from the Apex, North Carolina Home Depot Pro Desk. This forum is full of nut jobs and crazies that live off the grid in Idaho that come into town every six months to try to buy power tools for below cost!!!
I for one am proud to count myself a member, though I honestly can't decide if it's better to be a nut job or a crazy?
-
1
-
-
It replaces the crimp tool. It's designed for TypeA PEX and fittings or often referred to as PRO PEX. You can not use this on your commonly available PEX from lowes or HD.
I was under the impression that you could use the standard fittings, just not the rings, as those were what the propex tool stretches for you.
-
I'm going to say hinge but I can't see if there were any holes for the nails. The other option would of course be an 18th century zombie killing spike. Could go either way really.
-
I really like their ECX bit screwdrivers. The rest of their screwdrivers are OK, but honestly, I don't like the fact that the end caps only say + or - without any other information. I guess perhaps I'm spoiled by the Klein screwdrivers that give you the model so you can get more info on size, length, etc. without having to pull it out and look at it.
I am also a fan of their locking pliers. The comfort grips and locks just seem to work better than my old Vise-grips with the funky metal lever that always pinches my hand.
-
I came across this video today in my wanderings. I'm a nub, so it's not surprising that I've never heard of doing something like this before, but for the sake of sharing, I figured I'd throw it up here and see if anyone else finds it interesting.
-
3
-
-
Wish I could charge it. We are trying to pay off all our debt, Wife still has a bunch from college. Living in Hawaii ain't cheap either. If I want to buy tools, I need to hustle side jobs.
Nalu - I think you may have lost a bit of sympathy with the bolded part...
"Oh my, living in a tropical paradise, surrounded by ocean, beaches, mountains and endless sunny weather... *sigh*"
But seriously, I remember 20 years ago I went to Hawaii for a friend's wedding and I couldn't believe how expensive everything was.
-
1
-
-
I think he is just going to paint it. It was more for safety than aesthetics at this point.
Quite right. The main priority is/was that the railing not fail. Aesthetics were secondary as the other option we were considering should this have failed was to install an ADA compliant steel railing next to the existing hand rail. This of course would have been significantly more obtrusive than the brackets.
I do plan on going back to fill in the screw holes and the seams with wood putty, but there's realistically no way that I'm ever going to able to do more than paint the metal brackets and screws. They ought to blend, but certainly won't disappear.
I haven't had a chance to get back to Philadelphia to finish it up, but I'm hoping to in the coming weeks. I'll have to take a pic or two to update the post when it's done.
-
The ever controversial topic about gloves I don't even like having them in my shop so many accidents are caused by wearing gloves or loose clothing and long sleeves if a thread was to catch that spinning blade; bye bye. Tile saws aren't to terrible but still be safe with machinery and be prepared for the worse out comes.
I'm mostly with you on the gloves issue. My rule is - if the blade can slice right through the gloves, there's no point in wearing them and they just slow you down and make you less safe. On the other hand, if the power tool in question will give you a nasty burn or can be stopped by leather (i.e. an abrasive blade, cutting wheel on a grinder), then I'd rather have the gloves just in case. I've had a cutting wheel shatter at speed and bounce around. If I hadn't been wearing gloves, I'd have had some severe lacerations on my fingers from the shrapnel.
Long hair, loose clothing, hanging threads - all of those should be banished / secured before you even pick up any power tool. I saw a video of someone going through shop safety and the thing that stuck with me was - "what would happen if you lost your balance and fell - where would you hit and what would hit you." In other words, don't lean over and across spinning blades and reach just a little bit farther just to get something done a bit faster.
-
or even the old style 2790 radio
Or the LED flood light. That thing eats 4.0 batteries. No whole day of work on high right now.
-
One thing to keep in mind is that some of the cheaper / used tile saws are little table saws without the safety features / blade guards of big table saws. While tile saws with abrasive blades won't cut your fingers off quite like a table saw will, they will ruin your day if you slip into it. So, be sure to wear good gloves/goggles and look for a tile saw that has a sliding tray or fence for the work piece rather than trying to slide it across a piece of hard plastic and keep it straight manually.
-
2
-
-
Woot has a decent deal on a Milwaukee M18 battery starter kit with a 4.0 AH battery and a multi-voltage charger. It's a decent deal if you need another battery/charger or are just getting started with the M18 line. HD sells the same setup for $149, which is crazy expensive.
http://tools.woot.com/offers/m18-xc-4-0-starter-kit-2?ref=cnt_wp_4_1
-
3
-
-
I'm with you on not wanting to have a bunch of different platforms for cordless tools. Batteries are too expensive and chargers take up too much room to have 5 different battery types.
If all you care about is drills and impacts, I think any of the big cordless platforms will work well for you. Like someone else said in a different post on cordless platforms, you should evaluate the platform based on the availability of some of the more specific tools that you may need down the road. Need a cordless framing nailer? Dewalt is the only game in town. Really want a cordless inflator, spiral saw and misting fan - go Ryobi. Need to be surrounded by cutting edge red awesomeness... Milwaukee is in your future. Want smaller power tools that still have great power - you've got a choice of Milwaukee M12 or Bosch.
So, it just depends on what tools you are looking to buy now and in the future but I think you've come to the right place.
-
The usual assortment of screw bits (phillips, square, torx, posi), countersink bits, drill bit stops and a sharpee so I don't have to use the stops (mark the drill bit and drill slowly
) -
I like my Milwaukee M12 Fuel screwdriver. Not sure if you are wanting something smaller but the M12 fuel is an awesome screwdriver.
As much as I agree with this sentiment, and I do love my M12 Fuel screwdriver, it really probably is overkill for this situation. Hanging pictures and screwing together the odd piece of furniture is probably not worth the $200 investment unless you've already bought into the M12 line and have batteries and chargers or want an excuse to! I'm probably not the best person to talk as I bought an M12 drill on sale to use with a drillbrush to scrub out my shower, but that's just me.
I have tried the Dewalt gyroscopic screwdriver. I could never get used to the magic switch that turned on when I twisted it one way or the other. I guess I'm just old fashioned and want a trigger to pull or a button to press. I've played with the Ryobi screwdriver that DR linked above and it seems quite nice. LiOn batteries mean it won't drain if it sits in a drawer for months on end and for $30, it's not a huge investment. Best of all, for me at least, it has a trigger!
-
My father lives in an old guest house in a historic part of Philadelphia. The "guest house" is around 6000 sq. ft., so I can only imagine how big the main house was before it burned down at the turn of the century. The first part of the house was built sometime in the 1700's and has been expanded slowly over the past couple of hundred years. The house is a curious mix of old time craftsmanship, two foot thick stone walls and crappy recent additions / changes that owners have made in the 50s and 60s. He's fixing it slowly but surely, but the big "oh crap" fixes obviously get priority over stripping paint and refinishing flooring.
Back to the project at hand: the handrail on the main staircase was getting looser and looser and was at the point where hitting it hard would likely cause it to fail completely. My dad was having some balance issues and this needed fixing ASAP, so I volunteered to see what I could do.
My first attempt at fixing it, stabilizing the newel post with 6" lag screws helped, but didn't address at all the larger problem that the handrail itself was quite wobbly. The spindles of the handrail weren't secured to the stair treads and were made with trapezoidal tenons that were just banged into the tread. Over time these had loosened and even securing them with screws didn't provide the necessary rigidity.
Bring on the steel! I ended up making stabilizing braces from 1/8" steel bars. I had to cut and finish the pieces by hand as I wasn't planning on doing this particular job; the only tools I brought were my drill and impact driver. Luckily my dad did have a bench vise and a drill press or it would have taken even longer. The side molding of the stairs was attached with hand-made nails, so it came off pretty easily. In fact, most of it was already loose, which I am sure contributed to the problem. So, after removing the nose molding of the stair treads (is that even the right name?), I attached and secured the braces with cabinet screws. I then cut out notches in the molding with a spiral saw and screwed them back in with finishing screws.
I didn't have time to finish up the wood puttying / painting, but the project worked. It's not the prettiest fix, but the handrail is rock solid now and looks a lot better than the alternative of replacing it with new hand rail. Once it's painted, it should be minimally ugly. You can see from the pics that I really need more practice with the spiral saw to be able to control it better. Every time I get one out, the centrifugal force of the bit ends up walking and making the cut go where I really don't want it to to.
Just as a side note, everyone raves about the Makita Gold impact bits. The stair treads and spindles are made out of some incredibly hard, very old wood. I think it might be oak or mahogany. Anyway, I was pre-drilling the holes for both the finishing and cabinet screws and I still ended up shattering 2 of the T15 Makita gold bits with the impact driver. I gave up and went and bought some Milwaukee bits and those managed to last me the duration.
Here are some pics of the project in progress and my trusty red drills - go go Fuel.-
1
-
-
You guys just reminded me to register my Milwaukee 2604, can't forget that, otherwise Milwaukee may not honer the 5-year warranty
Registration doesn't affect or start the warranty. For Milwaukee tools, the warranty period is calculated based on your purchase receipt from an authorized Milwaukee dealer. If you didn't buy from an auth. dealer or you can't find the receipt, the warranty period is calculated from the manufacture date code embedded in the serial number.
The moral of this story is: save and / or scan your receipts.
-
That's a great story. My daughter (she's 3 now) still reminds me that I don't need any more tools every time we wander into the tool aisle. In the other hand, she's fascinated by my tool box and always pulling out hand tools to ask what they do. We got her a wooden tool set with wooden bolts and tools for her 3rd birthday that she loves. I figure that'll tide her over until she starts using the real things.
-
2
-
-
Look up DrillBrush. I use one of the harder / stiffer brushes with baking soda and steam and it gets just about everything out.
-
Was the concrete removed - yes.
Did he use the tool t do it - yes.
Mission accomplished.
-
3
-
-
My vote is go for the floor model. I love when you can pick up floor models for cheap. It's exactly the model you want and at a killer price. Use the extra money to buy a chopmaster blade and you'll have a beast.
-
6 1/2 fuel circ saw $229 http://www.homedepot.ca/product/m18-fuel-circ-saw-bare-tool/415139
The 7 1/4 would be nice, but I like the blade on the left side, and I believe it only comes on the right from what I have seen.
Correct about the blade being in the right side. All depends on your preference I guess. I like the right side blade.
The prices I quoted were in USD- didn't know we were talking loonies and toonies. You might try KMS if you are near one. They have had some killer deals in the past in the 7 1/4" Fuel saw.
-
KDV - Your 2 and a half year quotes are classic! lol
Haha thanks. The thing is she LOVES going to the depot, but I can count on her ratting me out if I stray from the list even to look at the new toys.
-
I'm not a pro and some of my power tools will often find themselves sitting in my garage for months at a time. Yes, it's sad, but I just don't need to use my recip saw all that much but when I do, I'll use it nonstop for several days on end tearing apart old decking, etc. Personally, I like the fact that Milwaukee has a 5 year warranty. If a tool can survive daily abuse for 5 years on a jobsite, I feel comfortable that it'll work when I need it to. I've spent way too much money on disposable power tools that fail when you really need them.
So there it is - my 2 cents are for team red. I won't dispute that they're more expensive and you can get a lot more bang for your buck with the Dewalt - oh yeah, and that 20v miter saw is really tempting...
Honestly I don't think you would go wrong picking either brand.
-
2
-
-
The $99 saw is the brushed 6 1/2" model. The fuel 6 1/2" is $199 and the fuel 7 1/4" is $229.
Personally I think the big fuel saw is the way to go. It cuts amazingly and has a ton of power. 7 1/4" blades are also a lot easier to find and cheaper than 6 1/2" blades.
)
Milwaukee Hand Tools - To be or not to be?
in Milwaukee
Posted
I just saw this and I'm guessing no one else has or there would have been more comments, but you'd have thought 126 pairs of eyeballs would have seen this sooner...
I love auto-correct.