khariV
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Posts posted by khariV
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I'll see your Red and raise you... even more red!
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Should just take it back looked at the box before leaving the store with it. I pretty sure when it came out Milwaukee advertised it for drilling and with the dust extractor never as a chipping hammer
I ordered it online and had it delivered, so there was no real opportunity to read the box. I was going by the marketing blurb, which still says that it does chipping. I'm not saying it's a bad tool our that I wouldn't have liked to keep it, just that since I do need to pick up an M18 rotary, there was no actual need for me to have both and so back to the depot it went.
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I didn't even know HD knew how to spell Wiha.
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I'm in for one. I had to get my cart over 40 for free shipping so I broke down and picked up a Woodpecker's 24" Ruler.
https://www.toolnut.com/Woodpeckers_WWR24_Woodworking_Rule_24_p/wwr24.htm
I really love the other Woodpeckers stuff that I've gotten so far.
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Well, I've got my 2604 for drilling holes into tile, which I coincidentally need to do this weekend. Since I'm going to have to suck it up and get a rotary hammer that does chiselling, the M12 went back to the depot. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for a good deal on an M18 now.
The funny thing is that when I went in to return it, the person at the desk told me that since I got it with a discount, I wasn't going to get full price refunded. I'm pretty sure she was convinced that I was trying to pull a fast one.
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So I couldn't resist the temptation to get the M12 rotary hammer that was the daily deal from the depot. I justified it by telling myself that I'd need it to remove the tile in my sunroom when I fix the rotten subfloor. According to the description on the website, "For maximum versatility, regardless of application or orientation, the tool also features 2-mode operation, rotary hammer and hammer-only."
So I opened it up last night and discovered that the promo materials lied. The problem is that the "two modes" are rotary hammer and just plain drill. There is no hammer only mode so it's pretty much useless for chipping tile. Why the heck would anyone use a rotary hammer with its expensive-ass SDS bits as a regular drill?
I suppose I'll keep it as it was a great price and I could always use it for the occasional anchor in concretely, but I'm more than a little bit annoyed at myself for not double checking the specs instead if relying on the marketing copy.
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Beat up tools that are being sold without a charger make me think that they walked out of someone's shop when that someone wasn't looking.
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Well you can get (2) 4ah batteries and a charger on Amazon for about $120
Yes and No. While it's true you can get a 4.0 AH battery on Amazon or eBay for that much, you won't be buying from an authorized Milwaukee dealer. Gray market items are just that. You won't get a full warranty on gray market tools and batteries and of course you always run the risk that you'll end up with a clever knock off, a used item or worst of all a 3rd party refurb. I've seen people get batteries that were real Milwaukee shells from failed packs that had been opened up and stuffed with new cells and sold as new from kits.
Anyway, long story short, there's no free lunch. If someone is selling something for significantly cheaper than official channels, there's a reason. Have I bought batteries and such from eBay? Yes, but only from reputable sellers, only factory sealed and only when I'm fairly certain it hasn't fallen off the back of a truck.
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The Halloween free shipping offer did me in so when I got home today, there was a package from CPO waiting for me on the porch.
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CPO Milwaukee has a promo going where you can get a free Fuel Sawzall or two 5.0 batteries when you buy the Fuel 2.0 kit (2897-22).
So that's either a free sawzall or a total of 4 5.0 batteries.
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I've been kicking around the idea of upgrading my M12 2408 and looking at both the 2404 and 2403. The 2408 is a nice drill, but the run-time can't quite keep up with the M12 Fuel driver and impact that live with it and I've found the power a bit weak on more than one occasion.
I was honestly going to wait until the buy one get a free 4AH battery deal came around again, but for $99, it'll be hard to say no to this deal. I really don't need a hammer drill in my carry around kit - the M18 comes out for any actual masonry drilling duties.
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I would call CPO and complain I will admit my tool had some black dirt stuff on it but that was just rubbing against the plastic in the case. Was your battery sealed in plastic? Because mine was. They might have had to push refurbs out the door as new ones to make up the difference if they over sold, or someone grab your nailer from the wrong pile. Mine looked like it might have got a little banged around in shipping but that was it, and it just wiped off.
The black dirt / plastic from rubbing against the case - I've got plenty of that too and I'm not really all that worried about it. It's more the scratches and dents and dings in places that shouldn't have them. The battery isn't sealed, but it is in a plastic bag.
Here are pics with the relevant stuff circled. Again, it's all cosmetic, but it is more to do with what it might mean - i.e. returned used / abused. So, what do you think? Worth complaining about or fire off a few hundred nails and see how it runs?
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Mine showed up today - unannounced!
I do have a question for the rest of the crew that got theirs as part of this sale. Mine looks like it's been roughly handled. I don't want to say that it looks abused, but... well, it looks used. There was sawdust in the nose, scratches all along the rail and scuffs and slight dings in the housing (metal and plastic parts). I doubt very much that any of this will affect its performance, but I haven't had a chance to go out to buy a strip of nails to test it out myself.
Is this normal? Was it just tested at the factory and perhaps bumped around a bit or are they trying to pull a fast one? I've never had a "new" tool come out of the box looking quite so rough, even if it really is still mostly pristine looking.
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Wow, I haven't even gotten a shipping notification yet. I might have to have a chat with CPO tomorrow to see what's going on.Mine arrived today. Just need to list my Paslode guns now on Ebay next.
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The deal actually lasted for a couple of days. I was really hoping that it was just a 24 hour desk and could ignore it on the first day, but then I came back the next day and it was still live so I took that as a sign that I needed to pull the trigger.
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Lithium cells deteriorate faster in the heat and for longer life being kept cool is recommended
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By "in the heat," I meant the heated part of the house as opposed to in the garage or in the back of the jeep, both of which routinely get below freezing in the winter. I've heard that freezing isn't really a good condition for battery storage, but of course that's just anecdotal.
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I keep mine in the heat for charging and storage but I've taken them out to build a shed and a fence when it was around 20 outside and they did just fine all day long.
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Damn it - I had to have one too. At least it's not COMPLETELY a new battery platform for me. My Dewalt OMT will now have some company.
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Happy Friday TIA crew! I've just had an afternoon project explode into something quite a bit larger and I'd really love some advice from the TIA braintrust.
A bit of background first...
A few years ago, a deck/patio over my garage was falling apart. It had a lot of rotted wood, the incline didn't allow for proper drainage and the whole thing was basically a hazard and wobbled if you jumped on it. To top it off, it formed the roof over part of the garage. I had a contractor come in and replace / rebuild it. As part of the job, they laid tile and really did quite a nice job. The only outstanding part that they left undone was the seam between the sunroom and the deck. Now, when the sunroom was built (1990's aluminum deal), they put flashing down underneath the sunroom structure that bridged and covered the gap between the structure below and the deck, which was now a patio. Well the contractor said that they couldn't replace the flashing because it was underneath the sunroom and they didn't want to break the structure so they did not seal the crack at all. They said to call a roofer to see if it could be done. I called a roofer who told me that the job would cost $1000 and that they wouldn't guarantee that it wouldn't leak. I thought, forget it, I'll do it myself for less than that. $1000 for a 15' section of flashing is absurd.
Fast forward two years. I finally get tired of the leak in garage whenever it rains and resolve to caulk the seam. My plan was to bend up the flashing, caulk the seam, cut the flashing, fold the edge under and rivet a new piece of flashing on to replace the bent / ugly edge left over from the construction of the porch. Pretty straight forward and I even got to buy some new tools for the job! So I bend up the flashing and while I'm brushing out the dirt to clean it for caulking, the brush goes right through the plywood that forms the sub-floor of the sunroom. I've attached a couple of pictures for reference.
This little job just got a whole lot more complicated. The area has obviously been leaking for a lot longer than I thought and there are whole sections of the sub-floor that are completely rotted out. This would explain why some of the tiles in that part of the sunroom have cracked. The best I can figure is that I'll need to cut out the tiles inside of the sunroom, replace the plywood subfloor and re-install the tile. The whole process is made more complicated by the fact that the sunroom is aluminum and sits on the tile/ subfloor. I'm not sure if I'll break it if I do this and I can't just disassemble the sunroom wall to do the repair. It'd never go back together again and the manufacturer is long out of business.
So the question for the crew is - am I about right in what I need to do? I'm a bit over the edge of my comfort zone but I'm sincerely afraid of what kind of cost estimate a contractor would come back with to do this for me - remember the $1000 to replace 15' of flashing and run a bead of caulk.
I've attached a couple of pictures for reference if that helps (sorry for the toe- my foot always manages to creep into my TIA pics...). Thanks in advance for reading my epic and for any and all feedback and advice you can throw my way.
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Does anyone know the difference between the 690 and the 692?
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Do they require a receipt with broken tools? I sent a copy in with my drill then thought that I better find receipts for the rest of my Milwaukee tools and could not find a receipt for three tools.
Not really, but of course it's more complicated than that. All Milwaukee power tools have a manufacture date code in the serial number. The warranty period starts from the date of purchase if you bought from an authorized Milwaukee dealer. If you did not or if you can't find your receipt, the warranty period is calculated from the manufacture date. It's best to keep your receipts so you don't lose out on warranty time for a tool that was sitting on the shelf for a while.
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The better one's are more durable, accurate and will last a long time.....plus everyone knows when you see a milwaukee tool for half price you buy it, no questions asked LOL!!
Well... Yes, but then again when I see a Milwaukee tool for half off, I also ask myself if there's a newer model coming out soon that I'll want!
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Hmmm...
Someone tell me why I need one!
I was kind of wondering the same thing. What's the real difference between this and a $20 model that had the same temp range and distance ratio? Specs being equal, are you just paying for durability?
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Is the new stand light dual powered? I see from the specs that the flood light can plug into an extension cord, but I don't see anything on that front as far as the stand light goes. I'll be bummed if the stand model is battery only.
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Home Depot
in Tool Deals
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