HiltiWpg
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Posts posted by HiltiWpg
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IMO everyone will eventually be forced to go > 18v for high performance tools. You can really see how Milwaukee have fallen behind with their larger tools as opposed to DeWalt, metabo, Husqvarna etc. 18v just doesn't cut it for consistent heavy loads. Batteries were striding along well once and during the last year not much has changed at all so hopefully we get some big announcements later on in the year or early next year! 8ah just doesn't cut it.
That’s not entirely true.
The popularity of 12v tools with tradespeople contradicts that.
There is a market for both to coexist.
Having 2 tiers of battery size makes more sense than increasing the size and weight of all tools for the sake of a few higher demand tools.
Eventually OSHA will regulate the size and weight of cordless power tools. I laugh every time I see guy doing trim work with a M18 Fuel Impact and a 9.0 battery.
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Agreed on the container box. The Toughsystem has a clear box but the reviews aren’t good. Never seen one. The not clear top bolt bin box is as good as Packout but no clear lid a a nd more expensive but you get the little racks in the lid. I keep 5/8 to 3/8 nuts, washers, bolts in the bins and 1/4 and 5/16 in the little bins in one. #8 to 500 MCM lugs in another.
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Exactly!
I have a separate packout parts containers for my wire nuts, mc/bx connectors and anti-shorts, splice parts, low voltage, machine screws, fasteners, and tap cons.
I wish Milwaukee would have streamlined the cases a little, make the foot print a little smaller and lose the wasted space from the pointless corner aluminum.
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I use Packout, TStak and Ridgid.
Hands down, ridgid is the best overall.
Tstack is very light-duty.
Packout is well built, but oversized for what it can actually hold.
The best part about Packout is the storage containers!
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https://gsfslides.com
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For us Canuks, the Hilti pricing has been the same.
Even Home Depot used to sell the M12 Fuel impact/hammer drill kit for $249 retail.
It recently went up to $299.
The bare tool and combo kits are creeping up.
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Man, every time I look at Milwaukee, the prices keep going up.
They are officially more expensive than Hilti now.
I am in Canada so I am assuming it’s worse in the US.
Looking at Hilti 22v, the bare impact is $169. The Milwaukee Fuel M18 equivalent is $199.
I was looking for some 12v compact stuff and the M12 Fuel impact / hammer drill combo was $299 CAD, with 1x 2.0 and 1x 4.0 battery.
I got the Hilti 12v Impact, hammer drill, light and recip saw for $420, with 2x 4.0 batteries.
The Hilti 22v rotary hammer is $349 CAD, the Milwaukee Fuel M18 is $379 CAD.
What the hell?
I get Milwaukee is popular, but they aren’t worth that much.
Hilti warranty still decimates theirs.
I guess they are trying to make up for all the free shit they have given away over the years!
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Stabila.
Empire is good, but you have to check them before you buy.
I have had to exchange a couple that read completely different from one side to the other.
Avoid Milwaukee. Even though TTI owns empire, they didn’t share the quality.
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If it’s a brushed drill, the trigger switch.
If it’s brushless, then you may need a new controller.
The fact that removing the battery resets it sure sounds like a brushless still!
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Get the Hilti hard case.
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Lol, it’s fake!
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Look for the star!
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Gotcha, a bandpass style enclosure could help.
Unfortunately corner loading won’t be feasible due to what they’re being mounted on. Once installed (behind the cheeks of this bunny’s face on this art car), the woofers will fire out while the ports will be aimed toward the ground. Having to fit under the cheeks is what necessitates the unusual shape of the enclosures. The fact that the vehicle is much smaller in every dimension compared to the wavelength of the frequencies we want to emphasize makes this a difficult technical challenge. The downward firing of the ports hopefully will provide a modicum of bass reinforcement but it probably won’t be much. The size of them is necessitated by the large air volume they have to move. I wish I could have made them bigger, if anything.
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Bass is all about sound pressure. Ideally you'd want to compression load those drivers, like have them down fire, or corner load them.
Firing up will leave them sounding flat.
The porting seems quite large too, that will also dampen the Bass.
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The problem is the insane waste of space in the first 3-4 inches of the boxes and organizers. For as massive as the boxes are, the internal volume is pretty small.
BTW
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Ridgid is rebranded AEG.
It's not a pro-sumer tool line.
Many AEG tools found their way into Milwaukee's line up, rebranded red.
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Not the biggest fan of the reviews, but hey, it's a decent look.
https://www.protoolreviews.com/buying-guides/best-18v-cordless-drill-head-to-head-review/45244/
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These Subcompacts are out of control!
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They have always been great for me. They did just open up a new facility and the website States they're backordered on some things. You could always give them a call to get an update.
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Thanks!
I guess I was just expecting some kind of communication.
It’s been 3 weeks without an update.
Aside from that, I am still excited to try the product.
There isn’t any real reviews or videos on the bag I bought, but the concept is pretty sweet.
I hope they hold up well!
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Have a peak at this:
https://www.makita.ca/data/upload/parts_breakdown/MLS100%20-%20JAN2015.pdf
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Have any of you guys bought Atlas 46 tool bags or gear? How are they to deal with?
I bought some gear a couple weeks ago and there have been zero updates, emails, shipping notifications etc.
It’s kind of taking the excitement out of it.
Poor customer service!
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Rohm and Jacobs Chucks are my favourites.
EBay and Amazon are the easiest to get them from.
Not sure if there are better chucks for the dollar, I am just an electrician!
I hate Milwaukee chuck run-out!
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This statement is false.Lots of misinformation here. First a 15 A breaker is not 15 A. Actually they are rated to trip between 80 and 100% of that number so at 12-15 A after a while (generally minutes).Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They are not “rated” to trip at 12a, nor will they trip in “minutes” of running above 12a (unless operating in abnormally high temperatures or other abnormal contributing factors).
Please show the 12a “rating”.
I certainly understand that non-continuous rated breaker will trip when under an increased continuous load.
That was never a contentious point.
You claimed a 15a breaker wasn’t actually rated for 15a.
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I confirmed nothing.And thanks for repeating what I already stated.First you confirmed a “15 A” breaker trips at 12 A if you give it long enough. Hence “continuous”vs. noncontinuous loads. Continuous is defined as 3+ hours.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A 15a amp breaker is rated for 15a.
It says so from the manufacturer.
Nowhere does it state that they trip at 12a.
Nowhere.
Linking a UL white paper on breaker terminology does what exactly? There is no proof.
Show me proof that states they are designed to trip at 12a.
Because they don’t. Or they wouldn’t be rated for 15a, they would be 12a.
I can run 14a all damn day and the breaker will hold.
The 80% rule is Electrical Code. It’s not the manufacturers spec. It is meant to ensure that the continuous load of of a non-continuous rated breaker is no more than 80% of its rating.
That means if I can prove that my load is non-continuous, I can load that breaker right up to 100% of it’s rated current.
Continuous rated breakers are designed for the increased thermal demands over longer periods of time.
Do you know what trip coordination is?
If breakers behaved they way you have misinterpreted, I would be losing a great deal of money!
Continuous and non-continuous rated breakers use the exact same trip-curves.
Here is a nice, easy to understand link:
https://www.schneider-electric.ca/en/faqs/FA104355/
Are you an electrician?
It sure doesn’t seem like it or you would know better.
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