BMack37
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Posts posted by BMack37
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I've yet to have an issue with CPO, that would have been the worst damage on anything I bought from them...other than the etching on recon batteries.
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23 hours ago, rrich1 said:
I have the Bosch 12v rotory tool and it has been great. Bosch owns Dremel do all of their accessories fit.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Milwaukee uses Dremel accessories too. I use the Dremel flex hose and blade guard all the time on mine.
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12 hours ago, Mycrossover said:
I didn't like anything I saw, new. Even the current Snap On is quite a bit different. I just bought a pair of SnapOn 96BCP pliers on ebay. They look mint in the pictures. They are on the way. I have my fingers crossed. I will report back when they arrive.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Yeah, there's really not something the same that I know of... I do really like the assembly pliers from Knipex and I think you would also but if you can get what you know you want there's no sense trying something else that might not fit into your usage.
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12 hours ago, Mycrossover said:
Goof off was made to remove latex paint so it is not surprising that it acts on various plastics. Don't they warn you to avoid contact with plastic? Thermo plastics, the kind that melt from heat are the most vulnerable. Thermosetting plastics like bakelite are immune from most stuff.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Probably, the professional strength has warnings about using it on a lot of stuff. It's not something to take lightly, use something else if at all possible.
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If you make the bottom flat piece out of two pieces you could use as many screws as will fit to hold the vertical piece to the bottom piece because you'd be covering that with the back piece. Fasten that with through screws then put a plug in the holes to hide them and the vertical piece shouldn't go anywhere. The top piece doesn't need to hold as much weight so there are plenty of other options.
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10 hours ago, Mycrossover said:
I have a Tektronix TX3, later, rebranded and renumbered as a Fluke when they bought the company. It was meant to compete with the 87. I love that meter. Recently I picked up some $.99 leads on ebay, straight from China, for some other cheap meters . They are pvc but they are virtually identical to what came with the Tektronix. Very nicely made. I suspect most leads are made there, regardless of brand. There seems to be a range of quality for ebay Chinese test leads. I saw silicone ones pretty cheap, too.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
The best non-modular leads I've tried are from Taiwan, made by Brymen. Coincidentally, you can only get them from Hong Kong (on eBay). They're better than Flukes. Once you go silicone, you don't go back. Fluke has silicone and PVC leads, the PVC leads aren't anything special. I used to use Chinese leads but I'd have to buy them 3 to 5 at a time, they're what the Boss said he used "No need to buy name brand leads" ...until I got some when I bought a used meter. Those already used leads are still being used years later. I HIGHLY recommend trying some higher end leads, it's worth it in the long run...since buying higher end leads I have yet to replace a set. Tips stay sharper longer, no broken tips, or loss of continuity. The length on the TL224s is also great, it's annoying to use shorter leads after using those.
Of course if you're talking about super cheap meters that aren't used a lot, it really doesn't matter. If you're going to use them more than once a month, spring for these:
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10 hours ago, Mycrossover said:
I think you reach a point where you get so big that you no longer have a handle on what you are selling. The people you deal with are totally removed from the product and in some cases, on technical items, are unable to even understand the complaint. They used to think Sears was here forever.
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At least Amazon's customer service is good. Sears has nothing to buy, a terrible website, awful customer service, etc.
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48 minutes ago, Mycrossover said:
You are right about Amazon sometimes not having the current picture. I got into this with them with another product. They explained the manufacturer or 3rd party seller supplies the pictures and they publish what they get. They are rather indifferent to specs and details. In my case, the manufacturer had made major changes but did not change the model number. They offered free exchange if I got the older, less desirable model. They would not even look at the outside of the box where the new product was shown in blue and the old one was red. I bought elsewhere, where the seller immediately looked at the product for me for a simple one and done transaction.
Yeah, I buy a lot on Amazon and I get the wrong item a lot. Sometimes the listing will be correct but the pics won't be, sometimes the pic will be accurate but the listing is wrong. Sometimes nothing is right. I don't know how they'd handle a return to Germany.
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I don't think the ones we get here are the same as the German ones. The pipe clamps we get here are made in China, I think the other ones are still German made...and there is a big difference, at least in their other clamps.
If the pictures are accurate the German clamps look like a completely different casting, note the finish and the logo:
The thickness on the steel on the A-frame suggests the second one is Chinese. Now, since they are the same model number, that may mean they're the same thing but Amazon .de has an old picture. If that is the case, the pricing makes just as much sense because the cost to bring goods from China into Europe is more expensive than bringing it into the US.
I honestly wouldn't worry about it. Bessey's pipe clamps are pretty good, I see other similar brands having just as many failures with less units sold. With their bar clamps, buy the German ones if you can, they're MUCH nicer(heavier, stronger, wider pads). I've heard the old German parallel clamps are also much nicer...but I couldn't tell you why(and every time someone says that they seem to just say it as a matter of fact, no explicit reason) as those are still on my wish list, working on smaller items I haven't needed them.
I personally would NOT take a chance on those from .de unless you don't mind a rather low probability at getting something German made.
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I've seen that happen on plastic too, never on a tool before...oddly the only one that comes to mind is the plastic on the Ferrari 360s. I think they were using something around that time that had a degrading property of turning to sticky, almost tar-like.
A lot of rubbers break down into a tar like substance too.
Some chemicals accelerate the reaction, chemical solvents like Goof off professional strength
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10 hours ago, JohnyWalter said:
I was a ridgid guy but after I bought the 12v impact an drill kit an they both out preform my ridgid stuff I have started changing over to Milwaukee unreal stuff they put out I cannot wait to have my whole arsenal Milwaukee
I've said this before. We have a corded drill at the shop that we'd use for drilling metal or using spade bits in plastic or wood. My M12 brushed drill is more powerful than that drill...the least powerful cordless Milwaukee! The M12 Fuel (Gen 1) is stronger than my friend's 20V PC drill and it's not even close, the M12 brushed is a little more powerful IMO.
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2 hours ago, Mycrossover said:
In most cases the insertion of the battery pushes some mechanical switch that shifts the power source from the 120 volt power supply, that converts the 120AC to something approximating the DC battery voltage, over to the battery. It looks like there is a bad internal connection or dirty switch contact. The radio "knows" it has been switched to battery but is not seeing any battery voltage because one of the connections,+ or - , is not making it to the radio. There are other ways it could be done so this is just a WA guess. If you are not up to going into the radio it is unlikely anybody has a solution that will help you. Is there something that gets depressed in that battery socket when a battery is put in? If that is the way they did it, some contact cleaner to the switch or maybe bending a switch contact would do the trick. But to be effective you would still have to go inside. It could be a bad solder connection to the switch.
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A lot of times that switch is on the jack if there is an external power supply, they make switches that are integrated into the jack...often that means a center negative plug...but it can be done several ways and without having it in front of me (or you, since you seem to also know this) there is no way to tell. FWIW, I've never seen the switches on the PSU jack fail without the jack itself failing.
They can also do the switching with a transistor or a relay.
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59 minutes ago, Mycrossover said:
While on the subject, I have a pair of 7" longnose without a cutter(my preference) by Snap On. They are #96ACP. They were replaced by similar 96BCP. They are pretty beefy at the tips and of course are made with Snap On precision. Both are discontinued, though I keep watching ebay for a really clean pair at a decent price.
I want a second pair and have not found anything. The Chinese made Southwires look similar but have a cutter. Reviews of Knipex suggest that they flex. It is that ridgid longnose that I like. Most are more delicate at the tips. The 7" length feels right and I prefer a not overly bulky insulated grip. Anybody know of an alternative? Thanks.
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Knipex makes different pliers for different applications. They make a general needle nose without cutter but those are meant for what you're supposed to use needle nose pliers for, holding something small or pulling something small. If you want something for what would be abuse for needle nose pliers, you want their "assembly pliers" they're about 8" shorter jaws with better leverage for better grip. I use mine a lot, in fact, I own two pairs. They also have a duckbill version that has a wider tip.
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-28-21-200-half-round/dp/B003EA05NA
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Keep in mind that when a transistor blows up there aren't any burn marks, just a crack or a chip taken out of the housing. It could also be a resistor or diode that opened up or shorted, which leaves no trace. Same with caps, sometimes they go bad but leave no trace, they don't always bulge when they fail.
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1 hour ago, Der said:
Hi all I have a metabo 14.4-18v radio works 100% when plugged in but when I try to run off the battery it won’t turn on empty battery icon appears and E flashes on screen any ideas what’s wrong not much point having a site radio I need power for
Have you tried other batteries? Do you know the battery is ok? Have you cleaned the contacts?
If all those are answered with a "Yes" you could have something wrong internal, you may want to try a warranty claim, even if it's a little out of the warranty. If that's a no-go, then open her up. It could be a simple pinched wire or a voltage regulation problem. Transistors on new electronics fail all the time, luckily they're pretty common parts that can be bought.
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56 minutes ago, AnonymousJoe said:
Good deal! Wish they would offer these new tools in packout cases
They should do a free tool/packout/battery promo. The packout pieces and batteries are getting near or exceeding the cost of a lot of free tools...I don't see why they can't do a packout tote or anything under the rolling base as a promo on kits. Great way to get people into the system. Even if they lose money on the free packout they're getting someone into that system which means more packout sales.
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2 hours ago, Biggie said:
Yea I don't get where they come up with 60% more power and up to 2x more speed under heavy load. My first use with the new drill I had about 60 holes in 2 pieces of 12ga steel. There were 3/8" holes punched in the steel that were about a 1/4 of a hole off and I wanted to upsize the hole to 7/16". I was running the drill in high speed as I would on any drill. On all 60 holes the drill would bind one time and shut itself off before drilling through the hole. Now to me this was a pretty heavy load being put on the drill and I'm not really knocking the drill because our dcd996 and gen 2 fuel bind and shut down the same way, I just don't think it has that much more power. The main reason I wanted the drill was for how compact it was with as much torque as the gen2 and it does deliver on that. On a side note, it did seem to do a good job of holding the bit tight without slipping as I know my 2703 and 2704 would have with all that binding but it's also a new chuck so time will tell.
If you didn't drop the bit once, then that's a massive improvement over the gen 2 chuck.
BTW, gen 2s chuck was a one-off too, it had an odd thread, 9/16-18. The "standard" is 1/2-20.
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Pry bar?
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14 hours ago, comp56 said:
son of a birch tree, I kinda thought it looked a little different but ok then not the Milwaukee I'm thinking of funny they can get away with the same name, I'm going to start making windows and call my company Microsoft Windows Inc.
The logo is fairly close, they have to have a gentleman's agreement or something. Seems Milwaukee tools was founded first so maybe they just figure there are bigger fish to fry, it doesn't hurt the brand either as Milwaukee hand trucks have a good reputation.
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1 hour ago, ChrisK said:
I was under the impression that Milwaukee trucks are not from Milwaukee Electric Tool. I’m not sure but tat is what I remember hearing at some point. Because Home Depot has Milwaukee trucks up in my neck of the woods.
I believe that is correct. Lowe's has had them for at least a few years, Sears sold them too at one point.
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8 hours ago, Nordraw said:
Go with the Husky you can't beat it for cost value for a home owner. No way is a Snap on worth the ten times the price for the value you would get. Unless money is not an object then just go for it.
I'd have to win the lotto or come across someone that priced it waaaay under value to buy a Snap On, Matco, MAC box but it is worth the money if you're a professional mechanic, especially if you might ever move it. The tool boxes at HF, HD and Lowes can't be packed like those can and certainly can't be moved with a flatbed or rolled a long distance with tools in it. For the guy asking the question, hell no he shouldn't be considering one of those boxes.
HF has great tool boxes if you get the General brand, they aren't cheap and they're not the new style of boxes. The new style is a flat top instead of a lip. The lip can be annoying on a tall box...the annoying thing is the new ones from HD are shorter which negates the need for the lack of a lip. Here's what I mean by this:
New style, the top is flat.
Old style, there's a lip where that hides the bottom of the top shelf:
Get yourself something at least 20" deep. Push on the bottom of the drawers, that tells you all you need to know...sockets, wrenches are heavy.
I'd rate the HF General better than the Husky/Milwaukee/Dewalt with maximum weight per drawer but Husky/Milwaukee/Dewalt are getting better built, bigger and getting the bells and whistles. If I was in OP's position, I'm buying a Husky/Milwaukee/Dewalt tool box and a HF tool cart. I actually like the HF tool cart more than my Matco. I'm also waiting for this Milwaukee box to come out. This one might get me to buy a new tool box.
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Honestly, I'd consider flipping them while they're still considered current. You can get them on eBay for a reasonable price (not cheap)...but it's probably smart to move into 60V or a different like like Milwaukee, Kobalt or Ego. I'm a Milwaukee guy but I recommend Ego. It's entirely understandable if you want to get out of the Dewalt line completely, that's one reason why I'd never trust the Tonka brand.
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24 minutes ago, HiltiWpg said:
Slow the hell down!!!
That sounds an awful lot like work!
I actually thought about adding a rivet to the exterior pocket but I don’t know where to get a proper heavy duty fabric type.
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Amazon...I actually have some coming, I'll post when I get them.
Here are some pics, the nylon strap was a pain in the butt but the others were easy, less than 5 min jobs. I should have just glued velcro and made a velcro divider but it was stuff I had on hand.
These two are enough to light up a dark room, just put the bag down and simultaneous button press => area light.
IR temp strap, foam for charger of CCTV, HDMI, low voltage cable tester.
Cut out pockets, doubled the space in each section.
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8 minutes ago, HiltiWpg said:
I actually like CLC/Kunys/Dewalt.
My only issue with them was the lack of hard bottoms and the material would wear quickly.
I haven’t looked very hard at them in awhile though.
Also, AWS at Lowe’s, those are some decent, well priced bag too.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI agree with both those statements and that's why I have been looking at alternatives. Luckily my bags aren't terribly abused so they should last several years but most would massively benefit from a sold base. I try to be aware of what I put my bag on too. When I'm doing pool equipment I try to find a solid place to put it. Outdoor security stuff I just leave it on my shoulder...its stuff like well pumps that will eventually get to my bag.
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Cordless rotary tool opinions
in Power Tools
Posted
It sounds the same. I'm thinking of building a suspension rig to hold it above my head while I use the flex hose because of the bending issue with the flex hose.
BTW, I don't think I've come across a rotary tool that can't use Dremel accessories. It's one of the few things that actually uses a standard thread and sizing. Even the Craftsman battery powered rotary tool uses Dremel accessories. I have to try my Tacklife but I assume it does as well, awesome kit BTW, worth it for just the accessories.
Though this picture on their listing made me laugh. How not to sharpen a chisel 101: