Stercorarius
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Posts posted by Stercorarius
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If an impact wrench twists your arm, then doesn't that make it a poor impact wrench?
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10 hours ago, Mordekyle said:
Good for you. Nobody else will do it for you.
What trade are you in?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkFormerly a farm manager/mechanic/everything else.
Currently doing ag-construction as a way to sell maintenance and repair service. Also a dealer for dairy automation products. The goal is to get to where we are solely focused on servicing and installing products we sell. Gotta start with a 250 yard concrete pour for a dairy barn though.
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5 hours ago, Mordekyle said:
If you don't have time, you should have money.
If you don't have money, you should have time.
If you don't have either,
should you think about raising your rates?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYah. This is the first job I've gotten since morning the LLC so I have yet to bill anything out. Last company I was a manager at I had zero time doing 70-100 hr work weeks and no money at minimum wage and since they didn't want to increase my rate I'm trying to do it myself.
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19 hours ago, AnonymousJoe said:
I think u have to pay extra to cover tools on a commercial policy but I’m not sure. All this talk about buying new tools and buying a building/shop, why not just pay to have the locks fixed and get an alarm installed? Or put a fence up and get a mean ass dog...
Just need time to get locks fixed and that can only do so much. The other pickup's locks were out of my control.
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8 hours ago, BMack37 said:
What you need to do is move man. I've known you for like three years and this is the third time this has happened.
Until then, Ryobi. You're getting at most a year out of tools so that's the logical choice. If you want power, check out the Kobalt tools...those might be good for impact wrenches since yours get beat up pretty good while in use.
Yeah moving is on the list of things for if I can make this thing start flowing cash. When I move it's going to have to have a shop big enough to lock a truck in. Other option is leasing a shop for the business, but that's at least a few months down the road. I do have a dealership agreement with one equipment company and a few more lined up so if any of that moves then a building with a shop to park in will be faster than buying a house with a shop or building one.
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22 minutes ago, Biggie said:
I'm sure it still wouldn't end up being cheap but metabo does have a rebate for some free bare tools. Acme has it advertised and if you just click on the ad it's a bit confusing as to what you have to buy and what you get free. Somehow I viewed the rebate flyer last week so it was saved on my tablet but for the life of me I can't find it on acme anymore. Looks like you could buy a grinder kit and a impact wrench kit and get a drill and impact driver free.
Yeah that's not a bad deal. I did that one two years ago when I ran Metabo. You get what you pay for for sure. Great little drill and the best grinder. Cost effective for going with Metabo. After this 200 yard concrete job I could probably swing it. If there was either another kit option or another bare tool option I would do it. Free impact with drill would work but then it would be free drill with grinder which then I'd have to sell and that would be a whole process. If I get my next work lined up working on pumps and more servicing/fab stuff it would be the way I'd go, but it's looking like the work readily available is barn construction where I'll need more carpenter focused tools.
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1 hour ago, Grumpy MSG said:
Call me crazy, but having your stuff stolen 4 times before you are old enough to drink legally is not a good sign. I am going to tell you to think about going a different route. Just taking the list of tools you have mentioned and using the thoughts of either large or small modular boxes like the Ridgid or ToughSystem boxes:
Cordless circular saw -wheeled bottom box
Cordless reciprocating saw and blades -small box
Cordless drill and impact driver + bits -small box
Cordless impact wrench + 1/2" SAE impact socket set -small box
Cordless grinder -small box
You could probably use the open totes which would probably hold more in each box, need fewer small boxes but the same principle would apply.
You could have everything unloaded and in the house in a trip or two and seriously cut down on the theft from vehicles. Another thing to do is to put them in a closet or room out of view of a window in the house, so nobody can see them easily and be tempted by for quick theft opportunity. Another thing you can do, is to start at the closest pawn shop to the house and check all of them within a ten mile radius as quickly as you can for your tools. often you will find pawn shops like to cooperate with local PDs. It doesn't help them to get a reputation for selling stolen goods. Heck, you might find some tools at a price that would be a decent replacement for what was stolen.
Yeah it becomes a whole issue of quantity at a certain point. The power tools I'll have to do, but it takes a good hour or more to unload a service truck and then another hour to load which cuts into time that could be either billable hours or sleeping. You are right though. If a thief can unload it before anyone notices anything then I should be able to unload it each night too. Live in a small town and decent neighborhood can't see into any houses from the street because land was cheap when they were built, just one of my neighbors grandkids is a real pos and gets traffic through the area that likes getting things for free. Small enough town that we don't have any pawn shops that sell tools. They just sell them for pennies on the dollar to guys who take them four hours west and pawn them off in Seattle. I watch pretty much every Craigslist listing in the state, but they seem to know better. One of those things where my blood pressure can't really handle getting pissed of every night lugging everything in when people should just stick to not being a holes or catch a bullet. That's not going to change anytime so you're right, I'll just have to find a better way.
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4 hours ago, jtkendall said:
You can get the saws, drill, and impact from Rigid for $250, marked down from $400 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Cordless-Lithium-ion-5-Tool-Combo-Kit-w-Drill-Impact-Driver-Circular-Saw-Reciprocating-Saw-Light-R9623N/300146409
Grinder for $99-$119 - https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Power-Tools/RIDGID/Cordless/N-5yc1vZc298Z18gZ1z140i3/Ntk-semanticsearch/Ntt-ridgid%2Bgrinder?NCNI-5&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchall&lowerBound=50&upperBound=200
1/2" Impact Wrench for $140-$150 - https://www.homedepot.com/s/ridgid%201%2F2%22%20impact%20wrench?NCNI-5
$489 for everything except the sockets, you'd need to pick up extra batteries too. The 4.0's are $99 per 2-pack so $588 and then a socket set. Probably won't get a lower price for all of the tools and 4 batteries, and you should be able to pick everything up at a local Home Depot.
That's not a bad price at all.
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3 hours ago, Kato said:
Buy Ryobi and be done with it. You'll find that it's a very capable brand, it's cheap, and it's anywhere a Home Depot is. They have every tool you could need or want, and you won't have to worry about different batteries for different tools. If someone steals them you're not out a ton of money.
Buy a few kits so you get tools, batteries, and chargers, then pick up a few sets of the 4Ah batteries.
Yeah seeming like the way to go. Haven't had a tool for long enough to wear it out yet. That's what I used growing up. By no means beneath me. Would rather have DeWalt or metabo for the same price but I can't really find that option.
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2 hours ago, AnonymousJoe said:
4 times?! That’s nuts, were all 4 times taken out of ur truck?
First time was my car when I was 17 and didn't know to lock, second time (not current) company truck that didn't have locks at my house when I was 18 or 19, third time out of the (not current) company equipment yard when I was 19, and this time out of my new old pickup at 20 so it's a yearly thing. Almost 18k at this point.
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Long story short, I got a new service truck that didn't have keys for the boxes. Made the mistake of thinking I could leave my tools in overnight if I parked behind the house until I could get keys made. Local cops won't do their job. Have to buy new power tools again for the fourth time. Money is really tight. Need to replace them quickly. Open to any brand other than Milwaukee. Only looking for help finding deals or the best price on these tools. Don't have a lot of free time to shop around so if you guys remember seeing a sale or promo on them let me know.
Tools:
1/2" sae impact socket set
Cordless recip and circular
Cordless drill and impact driver
Cordless impact wrench
Cordless grinder
Thanks in advance for any help
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5 hours ago, DiverDn said:
I guess I should have been more specific.
I'm looking for advice on the combo bit. The bit that looks kind of like a phillips, but has a wider flat section to the blade.
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/combo-tip/4-102-mm-combo-tip-driver-set-1-and-2
Usually only see a use if you are doing a lot of panels. Not something I'd recommend as a screwdriver. A decent 6 in 1 driver will do just fine.
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Been there a few times. Sucks bro. Nothing makes your gut sink like putting your pickup in reverse and seeing the ground in your rear view.
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24 minutes ago, BMack37 said:
I always have trouble in back seats because I wear size 13 shoes.
Interesting, definitely doesn't sound comfortable. I hate most cars coming out now, visibility is terrible because the A pillars are always huge.
Yeah it also definitely has to do with preference too. I know a lot of truckers who air their seats down to the floor so they can see bare minimum and feel like a badass. I always air my seat up as high as my feet will still reach because I prefer better visibility. The chevy felt like it was designed for guys who put their seat to the floor.
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2 hours ago, BMack37 said:
What's your height/weight? Hard to imagine they're not built for guys at least 6'3" and 240. I'm 6'1" 230, wide shoulders and long legs, I've never felt cramped in a modern truck, even back to the 90s.
For looks, the 90s GM pickups are probably my favorite (for practical trucks), followed by the 1st gen Ford Raptor. 50s trucks from pretty much everyone are the best looking trucks but they're not practical or comfortable.
Yeah I'm pretty similar sized to you around 6'2" somewhere around 220 lbs. It's hard to describe. Backseats on a crewcab high country were small enough with the seat forward that my boots couldn't pit perpendicular to the seat. In the driver's seat it's like they pushed everything towards you to make you feel bigger but it's just uncomfortable. Somehow hard to see because the windshield almost seemed small. Much preferred the powerstroke. Actually really like the new Ford XLT cabs. Not a fan of the higher end lariat cabs though. It might just be a case of me feeling out of place in high end cabs though.
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Yeah wobble extensions or a joint. Impact ones only if you are using an impact. For hand tools, anything other than the standard cross style is going to just be too big for most stuff. It's good to have both.
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3 hours ago, comp56 said:
never use your finger to get a stuck nut out either .......not my finger
Yeah this. Don't try and hold carriage or especially plow bolts in their broach with a hand. I got lucky and it only went halfway through my finger when a sharp plow bolt jumped. A mistake I only made once.
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The one engine/tranny option is a step in the right direction for the ranger. I would have preferred them to be a little more bare bones and low key get trucks. Instead they went full Tacoma on them which I really don't like. Guys need to really get their act together and put at least a small steel area on the top of aluminum bodies so you can still magnet mount accessories. There's nothing like having to open both doors and run a ratchet straps around your roof to keep a beacon on. About an XLT with vinyl floors is my trim level. Trucks are strangely jumping back and forth between being super ugly and solid looking between each year. The new powerstrokes are really solid. Takes a while for them to grow on you but they work well. Pulled pretty much anything under the sun when I had a 2017 at my old job. I don't fit in the new Chevys. The interiors were designed either for smaller folks or people a lot less claustrophobic than me. New Dodges are new Dodges. Only look good with a welding bed or pulling livestock.
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Molybdenum Disulfide is a fairly common lubricant. It functions as a dry lubricant similar to graphite. You see it a lot in high pressure applications because even with zero oil it still lubricates. It is a major component in Teflon. You see it a lot in EP greases more so than you see it advertised in oils. Moly assembly lube is very common once you start building engines. Moly and chrome are often used with each other. Hence chromoly piston rings that wear well. Think metal version of UHMW. Even a lot of tools are CrMo.
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Don't use it with any attachment that isn't impact rated. As far as fasteners go, an impact is generally a less damaging option than traditional methods. If an impact breaks the fastener before it comes loose than so would a hand tool. The only exception is when you get down into small seized fasteners, i.e. seized fasteners below a 3/8 socket. Even then it depends. The big thing with an impact wrench is to never use it on something that you aren't sure if the threads are aligned on. That's when you run into problems is when you think the threads are just a little tight and the bolt just needs to get started. An impact will destroy threads before you even know what's happening. Just start all fasteners to make sure you aren't cross threading and you will be fine.
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On 1/12/2018 at 5:20 AM, BK13 said:
LOL, I had probably 400k miles running Pennzoil in my old Toyota and CJ5 (and current CJ7) with absolutely no oil issues. I did switch to Mobil 1 in my Expedition and the GF’s two Volvos. Most motor oil these days are pretty decent.
Fair enough. It all works. I've just had bad experiences with the stuff and carbon buildup. When looking for an explanation I was told it's because they go heavy on the graphite as an additive.
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Yeah but I mean something advertised for drilling will drill a hole and if it doesn't drill a hole just as advertised, I wouldn't buy from them. All my other tools work just as advertised. The only ones with advertising that are severely misleading is harbor freight. I don't know of any of the major tool brands that have anything fall as short of as advertised as this. If something was advertised as being a drill and could only drill a hole 1 out of ten times under ideal conditions I would be mad and never buy from them again. Same thing if something is advertised as being able to track a tool and doesn't even if I go out of my way to get the perfect conditions. The only information I was ever given was that it tracks tools and any news or "review" of it mentioned a theft tracking and inventory aspect. It does that beyond poorly, if at all. Anything that falls that short on performance isn't worth my time. I understand the whole concept of caveat emptor, and so I'm letting other people know, that at least in my case it failed miserably so they have information on their next purchase. Tracking is the only appeal to me personally for One-Key and it doesn't perform as advertised and so it's not worth my time or purchasing any Milwaukee products. I'm under no delusion that my business will have any affect on their profits even to a 0.000001% or that my feedback affects a significant number, if any, people's decisions. It wouldn't just be bad for progress if negative feedback didn't exist. I mean I started this thread optimistic and as hopeful as anyone could be that this worked. I would only gain if it did. It didn't, so then I bought two ticks to see if I could get better luck with them. The impact was pretty early on. Could have been a fluke. Neither tick worked to where I could use it for personal inventory, much less anything to do with theft. This was trying with both my cat phone, and my Samsung. It may only work apple devices, but that's still poor design and execution on their part. I'm not about to go out and buy a DeWalt version either because even if it was executed perfectly, which I'm sure it isn't, it still lacks the user base to be effective beyond personal tracking. Shoot unpowered RFID tags ping at shorter distances than the tick.
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57 minutes ago, Jronman said:
My mechanic told me once every 6 months is enough. I am probably going to be averaging 1000 miles a year now since I am done with school.
That a typo? At my old job I did twice that in a week.
The stuff we throw away at work...
in Pub Talk
Posted
Ah gotcha. I just misread that. Looks nice. They let you take home things that are thrown out like that?