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Mordekyle

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Posts posted by Mordekyle

  1. Thanks for the tip.
    I did notice the sunlight thing. The pumping got easier as the caulking warmed up.



    Here's another tip:


    Don't forget your adhesive gun at home like I did today. But if you do, buy the Dripless 2500(?) from Sherwin Williams for $18.

    It works great with Quad Max.


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  2. I had the 18v Dewalt caulk gun.

    It was very useful to blow up caulk tubes. Then it quit working.

    I use the heavy duty gun from HD. They quit working after a couple months, but they're only like $15.

    You can put Quad Max in the microwave for 30 seconds. Leaving it on the dashboard in direct sunlight helps as well.



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  3. I almost picked one of these up when CPO tools had a 10% off sale.


    Unfortunately, they charge $50 extra for shipping the track.

    If anyone is considering buying one, you might buy the tool from Acme or CPO, but buy the track from Home Depot online- they offer free shipping.


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  4. No miters. They'll open up, bind, and twist.

    A double picture frame can actually look cool with butt cuts, I'll try to find a picture.


    Plane the high joists, check with a 78" level. If you have a joist a tad bit low, you can use two layers of peel and stick.

    No worries if you have to trim boards; cut all at once with a tracksaw or a "shooter board" (search it up on Youtube)


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    • Like 1
  5. just in my experience,  but the flexvolt 6.0 makes the saw spin slightly faster versus the 5.0 battery.  i can hear the difference.

    I've experienced the same. Higher RPM, less tendency to bog, better performance on Long rips.



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  6. IDK why, but I did not see the pictures earlier.

    Ideally, the short ledger would be replaced with a longer joist as well.



    - you have to cut a corner.

    - an oscillating tool will cut it quickly and accurately. It needs to be cut at the same height as the siding.

    The Contractor didn't do you any favors by not leaving space for a deck board. Ideally, the J channel at the bottom of the siding would be over the top of the deck board. It would hide the edge of the first deck board. As it is, it will be next to the first deck board. But you Can still make it work.





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  7. You should replace the ledger with one that is the right length. To sister a ledger board would be hackery.

    The ledger flashing is not so much to protect the ledger as it is to protect the house it is attached to.

    With that in mind, you should remove and replace the ledger, ensuring there is a waterproof membrane against the house. If the GC used nails, there probably isn't. Then, You can replace and flash the top of your extended PT ledger with peel and stick waterproof membrane, ensuring water can't travel back under the ledger's existing drip flashing.
    Attach it with ledgerloks by fastenmaster.

    You can apply that same membrane to the top edge of all your framing- joists, rim, and blocking. That will add more years to your deck than 2 x 12 joists ever would. A roll of it will only set you back $25.

    You will need a post under the cantilevered section, but it doesn't have to be directly under the ledger. I would hide it by putting blocking between the last two joists about a foot in from the ledger/rim. Horizontal blocking under that would have the post attached underneath it. In fact, I would build that support from the top down, pouring concrete in the hole and tamping it around a post base attached to the post hanging from the blocking. Much easier.



    Blocking on top of your beams between the joists will make your deck bombproof. 16" OC is great for wood decking, but if you want composite, add three joists to make it 12" OC.


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  8. Mine was really hard to move- after someone borrowed it.


    It turns out there's a lock and a knob to move the fence. No Allen wrench needed.


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