SchenzhenSpecial
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Posts posted by SchenzhenSpecial
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On 11/1/2018 at 9:15 PM, Whitey said:
metal roof decking
Most metal roofing profiles are around the 3mm thick mark, increase that for stiffening ribs and where the folds for the profile are introduced and you're going to spend a lot of time cutting these out with a 6" hole saw. Depending on the profile I'd probably prefer to use a jigsaw or if the sheet metal gauge is light enough, a punch nibbler that will allow you to follow the profile.
I've recently been working with 100mm profile roof deck and had to cut to end of 30mm holes into it and I was sick of it.
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1 minute ago, Jronman said:
Whatever plastic is used it is very strong and durable. The lack of flex makes it pretty convincing that it could be metal. Also with the spring on the blade release as strong as it is, you would think a plastic lever would break or bend. Kinda cool how far plastic technology has come.
Plastic production and the distance it has come is the result of manufacurers being cheap. If it works it doesn't matter but the quality of machined or even cast parts is becoming a neccesity when required rather than an expectation.
There's also an environmental impact by using more readily disposible plastics. -
I once vaguely knew a girl from Scotland whos old man moved to Houston to work for BP... I wonder.
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They've definately always been plastic and they're dirt cheap to replace should you have a failure in one.
Part Number Dewalt N254620
https://www.partswarehouse.com/DeWalt-Sa-Clamp-Lever-DWB-N25462-p/dwb-n254620.htm
$6.88
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1 minute ago, Bremon said:
Plenty of plumbers can tell a story about a big right angle drill giving them a kiss when it binds. Add a ladder to the mix and multiply the fun.
Doesn’t take much to hit a nail and have your drill let you know about it. The handle on my 996 is pretty pathetic for leverage. The 791 doesn’t come with a handle at all. Prior generation Milwaukee handles weren’t al that difficult to break off. Gen3 Fuel and the flagship Makita are better in that regard though.
Are we talking right angle drills or 1/2" pistol drills tho?
As I said. If you're worried, engage the driver clutch and if it does bind it wont break your wrist.
And before anyone says it, I run 6" hole cutters like that daily without issue.
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9 hours ago, paulengr said:
That does not work.if you get a kick back on a big enough drill you won’t be able to stop it.
The truck is wrap your hand around the handle with your thumb on the same side as your fingers. If it kicks it jumps out of your hand but does not break your wrist and put you out of work for 2 months.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI'll take your word for it but I'm afraid my own experience suggests otherwise.
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Never understood the need for anti-kickback in drill-drivers. If it's something you're worried about use the side handle or if that's not possible use the driver clutch.
Understandable in rotaries but even then most have a clutch now.
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There's a AWS model of the DVC750 in development too(as I suggested above before being told it would be too expensive and wasn't fit for purpose).
Additional Makpac base should also be coming with it.
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On 10/27/2018 at 11:53 AM, SchenzhenSpecial said:
Personally think it needs AWS and it needs Makpac compatibility. Until it has both of those it's not for me. Would have been nice to see it on a 36v platform too as cordless vacuum run times are pitiful.
This example is the best I've seen with 36min on low with a 6ah.
Where I said "personally think" should have made it obvious that it was my opinion.
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1 hour ago, kornomaniac said:
I made a general remark about a tools purpose. You're the one going all defensive?
You tend to do that alot on these forums really ?
There are people with different opinions than you.
Well I gave my opinion of what I'd want from such a tool and you rubbished it as being more expensive and not fit for that purpose. As I've said they managed AWS and a 36v platform with the backpack so why couldn't they do the same with the box type.
You can't harp on about people having differing opinions while on the other hand rubbishing anyone elses, very hypocritical.
22 hours ago, kornomaniac said:This is meant to clean up after your ass after you have drilled some holes at a customer's place.
Aws Would only make it more expensive and people will use it for dust extraction on tools for which it isn't strong enough
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20 hours ago, kornomaniac said:
This is meant to clean up after your ass after you have drilled some holes at a customer's place.
Aws Would only make it more expensive and people will use it for dust extraction on tools for which it isn't strong enough
So it'll sell as it is to people who want it. It doesn't have what I want so I won't buy it. That's what I want from a cordless vacuum. What's your problem, far too defensive. They managed it with the backpack vac so why not a box type. Festool managed to have it interlock with the Makpac and Tloc so why couldn't Makita.
On 10/27/2018 at 12:30 PM, aessu said:My wife has a Makita DCL500 cordless vac and she loves it. Plenty powerful enough. Motor power is not everything when it comes to vacuums.
20 hours ago, kornomaniac said:No he is quite literally talking about a 1000 and 2000 ?
No, he was talking about the Dyson hand held at 350watts and presented the argument it isn't all down to motor power. The Makita vac is a suggested to be 50watt, while he was using a 1000watt vac as an example in his post.
Comparing the 1000 and 2000 watt units it pretty irrelevant you're basing the discussion on a 350 or 50 watt unit.
It's all there in the thread pal.
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1 hour ago, aessu said:
Seals on hose and other parts are much more important than pure motor power. I've used vacs with 1000W and 2000W of power and similar design, with the 1000W one having much better suction, due to not leaking and losing vacuum at connection points so much.
Youre putting the difference between a 1000w and 50w vacuum down to seals...
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3 hours ago, aessu said:
Motor power is not everything when it comes to vacuums...
...indulge me.
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3 hours ago, kat said:
All cordless vacs are completely useless, except the Dyson, which outputs 350W+ and it's almost as powerful as corded vacs.
With shocking runtime, worse charge time and extortionate genuine battery costs.
It is what it is and not intended to replace a corded vacuum.
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Personally think it needs AWS and it needs Makpac compatibility. Until it has both of those it's not for me. Would have been nice to see it on a 36v platform too as cordless vacuum run times are pitiful.
This example is the best I've seen with 36min on low with a 6ah.
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7 hours ago, Brianjkeene said:
Credit toolsbydesign
Or this guy who he nicked it from
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Is there any visible arcing? I find it's usually bad brushes that cause a loss of power at first glance. Brushes are cheap, start there.
If that doesn't fix it, you'll have to take it apart presuming it's out of warranty - if it's still covered just send it back to Makita.
If the armature is burned out you'll get smoke, barely enough power to cut anything if not a complete failure to turn after trying for a while. A multimeter will show open circuit across all windings. Check online for common values of resistance, if any are well out of range +- 2-3 counts you have a bad winding.
Check the commutator surface. Does it show signs of burning, is it pitted? Is it out of balance or no longer perfectly aligned face to face?
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They're not powerful enough.
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43 minutes ago, ToolBane said:
Not what I said at all.
18 hours ago, ToolBane said:Within reason, larger cells will be able to belt out more current per-cell without negatively affecting longevity. That’s another part of the attraction of larger cells.
Your words.
51 minutes ago, ToolBane said:nothing to do with why there will be a higher current output available if the cell is bigger. The electrical resistance of any given component in the circuit path is dependent on a number of factors, but one of them is cross-sectional area of the resisting material.
I'm well aware of this.
8 hours ago, SchenzhenSpecial said:A larger capacity cell will be able to belt out more current per-cell no different to a 2gallon bottle holding more water than a 1gallon bottle.
At this point I'm struggling to see what it is you're arguing about.
If you have 8 cells putting out 2amps at 20v, they're going to perform better for longer than 4 cells putting out 2 amps at 20v. Why are you going in circles talking about cell capacity?
23 hours ago, SchenzhenSpecial said:Any potential increse in runtime is minimised by the cost and reduced life span of the battery.
A new Bosch 'slim' 4ah is currently selling in the UK for around £70. For the same money I can have the 18650 lined
6ah. Is the 4ah slim going to outperfom the 6ah? On current, yes - should the tool need it. Run time? Probably not. Cost for its lifespan, very unlikely.
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I'm wondering if we're going to see much as consumers for a while. The largest markets would be automotive and energy storage from renewables such as solar and wind. Seeing such tech in your hand I don't think will be around the corner.
Something you might want to read:
https://electrek.co/2018/02/28/bosch-gives-up-battery-cell-production-electric-car/
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48 minutes ago, kornomaniac said:
Your story isn't correct either.
Charge cycles isn't the only thing that deteriorates battery cells.
Heat is the most important factor. Thzts also on battery University to quote your source. 21700 cells can output more current for less heat buildup.
Less heat = longer lifespan.
I've already said this.
17 hours ago, SchenzhenSpecial said:Factor in the higher temprature generated after drawing greater current from fewer cells and you have a further decrease of life span.
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30 minutes ago, kornomaniac said:
Don't really think you are correct ?
The 21700 cells have a higher continuous amp output then 18650 cells. That's what's toolsbane is saying.
Then that's what he should have said. Not what he actually said, which implied lithium would perform differently because there's more of it. The performance of the battery isn't the same as the performance of the heavy metal the cell is made of.
28 minutes ago, ToolBane said:It’s entirely true, by the same means that two cells in parallel will output twice the current as a single cell, which is why power tools so often have better performance output with 2-bank batteries versus 1-bank “compact” batteries.
You're talking about performance over increased capacity. On what you're saying 100 cells would perform better than 1 cell. Yes. That's true, that's not what you said, or at least not how it was was worded.
9 hours ago, ToolBane said:Within reason, larger cells will be able to belt out more current per-cell without negatively affecting longevity. That’s another part of the attraction of larger cells.
This isn't true.
A larger capacity cell will be able to belt out more current per-cell no different to a 2gallon bottle holding more water than a 1gallon bottle.
That is not to say the lithium within the cell will deteriorate at a slower rate.
I've linked you to a study which looks at the rate of deterioration compared to amount of recharge cycles, already.
Batteries
in Makita
Posted
You're not being serious are you?😂
Some brands put a (somewhere near) -15deg cut off switch on batteries to stop them from delivering power beyond that.
Although most people are unlikely to see -40, at the temperature lithium batteries stop working completely.
https://www.toolstop.co.uk/blog/lithium-ion-batteries-and-winter-how-to-keep-working-in-the-cold/