bradleyheathhays

Anyone?

Would you look at this old 4th generation iPod! I've had it since somewhere around 2005 and can't believe it's still kicking! Just found it again and I'd like to do something about the small scratches on the plastic screen area and metal back plate. You can see in the pictures that most all the scratches are fairly light, but enough that they're somewhat of a bother, especially when looking at the screen. I put some Brasso brass polish on a circular wool dremel polish pad to see what it would do on low speed, and you can see what effect it had on the back in picture 3. I don't think this was the right direction. Pic 4 is to show generally what condition the back is in. Funny how those dremel marks only show up at an angle. So what's the right equipment and polishing / cutting compound I should be using? I just got a new 3" head, 8mm throw DA polisher for another project and after seeing what the dremel wool pad did I think using the DA is the way to go.

Are there any woodworking supply companies that sell profile templates for turned pieces? I've done small turnings without much problem and now I'm about to attempt larger projects. I'm afraid if I don't have something to go by I'll just keep turning the thing further and further looking for 'the right' shape until I've gone too far and have nothing left. Thanks

Woops, sorry. Corrected now.

My back door step could use some sprucing up but I'm not sure how to go about it. I would imagine the wood pictured is treated and the metal is aluminum. How would I go about resurfacing or finishing both these surfaces to get them to look some better? The painted white part on the left is actually a different surface a couple inches below the unpainted wood step. Thanks

It's been so long since I've tried to clean my bathroom grout that I'm hoping there's been an improvement in grout cleaners since I did, so I thought I'd ask yall's opinion on how best to get my grout color back. It's white but fairly darkened now with just general floor dirt over the years. It was sealed a long time ago but not sure how much good it did. Is there some kind of product now that is a combination cleaner / re-colorant? I'm guessing there might be. Also, I need kind of an advanced puck light that I'm not finding on Amazon. I need one that's programmable and remote control. Any suggestion where I can find something like this? Thanks PS. I've got 1" tile on the floor, which means a LOT of grout lines, which means one of those grout re-colorant pens would just be too much work.

I need to have a simple 3D object designed and printed and have no idea where to go on the net to get it done. I know a little about fiverr.com but I couldn't even fit this job into any of their categories. The project eventually iterates into a wood design so I figure I'd post my question here. Thanks.

I've got some plastic attached to glazed tile with the high temp hot glue sticks and I need to get it all off to make like new again. Any suggestions for getting hot glue off tile? I'm thinking flash freeze the glue with an upside down turned can of something, spewing out the propellant, and then quickly scrape with a plastic spatula or mud knife. Not sure what product in a can I should use though. Any other ideas?

Some years ago I cleaned off this door handle with an alcohol that was too high in % and now I've got this white stain to show for my tomfoolery. How do I go about correcting this? I'm not sure what the original finish is on the door, but I imagine I need to scuff it up with maybe a yellow green sponge scrubber then do a spray (can) finish on top...aiming for less than a high polish sheen. Any ideas on correcting this mistake or what spray finish I should use? Thanks.

I'm looking for about a 2' x 3' piece medium weight sheet material that could serve as a table top and be weather resistant. As it needs to withstand direct rain I don't think anything made of wood would hold up, but I don't know what else I could use that would still be cheap as say plywood. Any suggestion for something that's inexpensive and would be weather resistant? I usually only set lightweight tools and parts on this table so it doesn't need to be heavy duty at all. Thanks!

Thanks guys. Sounds like good advice.

Just bought a nice little 6x10 covered trailer and it's got more rust on it than I'd like to see, but I think it's treatable. I could do some sand blasting on it if that's what's needed. Open to your advice about getting the rust off and coating with some kind of protectant. I like the look of the original metal so I'm hoping I can get away with just blasting. The trailer was made in 2002 so it's taken a while to grow the rust. I probably won't have the trailer more than a few years so I'm not wanting to fix this rust to last a lifetime or anything. Thanks ahead.

That's ok, appreciate the thought.

I've checked continuity in the power cord all the way up to the part I'm holding, which is the trigger switch itself with the power cord input leading in from above. Which parts should I get the probes on when I'm working the switch and testing for continuity?

I have a Griot's G9 Random Orbital Polisher I got off ebay a few months back and didn't actually plug it in til this week. Turns out it doesn't give any indication of wanting to work at all. Motor brushes seem to be ok and I have no idea what to look for next. Any advice on what to check next on this thing to get it running again?

I've got a janky garage/shop roof that I'm trying to get ready for the winter, and need a suggestion for some kind of filler material. The guy who built it was in the military probably in the early 60s and it seems like it was built to the standards of a field manual. The roof is sloped about 3 deg, which when it was new probably performed well, but a number of decades later and it ain't lookin so hot. Everything's under control insofar as major structural integrity is concerned. The problem is with some of the plywood that droops in spots between the joists. I'd like to secure a large tarp up there to give it the best chance possible over the winter, but if these dips aren't filled in before the tarp goes on there's gonna be lots of places that will harbor shallow pools of water weighing on the roof all winter. What I have are a number of say 3 ft long runs between joists that are sunk about 2", and these are the places I'm trying to fill. My first idea was to use expanding foam but emptying out a can doesn't nearly fill one of these dips. Something with more volume is needed. So then I had the idea of using mulch, but that's got too much potential to absorb moisture and become too heavy. Thought about sawdust, but it's got the same potential to gain weight. And now my last idea is to use shipping peanuts. Although I don't think they'll end up being what I go with because of their cost and anticipated difficulty in working with them, they do happen to be a good example of a material that would fit the requirements of being light and resting absorbing water. So that's where I'm at with this guys. Any ideas on some kind of filler material I haven't thought of? Last thing is, I'm trying to figure out a material I could cut to about 3'x5' and use as an outside tabletop, something that rain won't effect. 3/4" melamine would work great insofar as utility is concerned but obviously wouldn't work due to not being weatherproof. Any suggestion for a material here? Thanks.

I'm setting up some pneumatic lines and I've come across a thread size I haven't seen before in quick disconnect fittings; and because I haven't gotten a grasp yet of how odd pipe sizes work I thought I should ask before I started ordering random parts, which is my usual MO. I need a fitting that fits the thread in the first picture and plugs into my regular quick connect air hoses. The part (for comparison) underlined in red is labeled a 1/4" male connector by the kit it came in, and although it looks like it'd fit the hole it doesn't. So, does that make the one that does something like a 1/8"? I'm not even sure if quick connect fittings come with that size thread. Everything that comes up when I search for 1/8" is a push to connect fitting. I know I could just put a hose over the barb, clamp and call it a day. But that still requires getting more parts, and if possible I'd rather have it fit into what I've already got.

I've got a project coming up where I need maybe about a quarter sheet of no-void plywood and there's none to be found in my area, even at the lumber specialty stores. The species used for the plies or laminate isn't particularly important. I'm just looking for something that's about 3/4" with good continuity of material when viewed from the side. So, I'm wondering if there's a place here on the interwebs or possibly around central Kentucky that might carry such a rarefied wood product. Thanks ahead

I picked this little guy up cheap as it still runs well, just needs a new set of sanding drums to get it productive again. Only issue is, I've never owned one of these sanders and I'm not sure how to go about getting this old spindle off. I bought it with the smallest diameter sanding rubber drum or whatever on it. According to the ancient instructions I looked up the sanding element should come off once the top nut and washers are removed, but this one's not budging. It came with a large flat wrench that looks like it's meant for a couple different size nuts. It's meant to be used for the retaining nut on the top of the spindle but it also seems like it's meant to fit a larger nut as well, although I can't figure out where it is. Should I just go ahead and cut this sand drum and rubber off the spindle, or is there something else I'm missing that needs loosening? First pic is my sander, second is from something else that shows the same old Craftsman sander I have.

Good thinking thanks wingless. I eventually found some parts also called ez outs for stuck pipe ends like this and it came out with no problems at all.

That at interesting idea fryfrtr998. It's an old board so I just decided to build a whole new one anyway. Oh well.

So my ladder falls and hits the (cheap) aftermarket regulator I have attached to my compressor and breaks the (accompanying cheap) connection pipe off flush with the compressor component leaving about 1/3" of threaded pipe inside the compressor component itself. If it would've broken on the regulator side I could just remove the rest of the pipe and replace the whole thing. But as it stands I'm gonna have to work the last bit of this male pipe out of the female threads. The pipe is copper so maybe that'll end up being to my advantage. How would you go about removing something like this? My camera takes bad close ups but to give some perspective the I.D. of the pipe is .40 in. Drew that line in there to show the end of the pipe. I've got easy outs for rounded nuts but I'm not sure if there's anything like that for this situation. Can't be the first time it's happened to someone. I'm afraid the pipe is in there fairly snug so I don't think prying one side up with a pic and then trying to work it around with some needle nose pliers is gonna get any kind of result. I'm all ears. Thanks.

So I'm resetting the rails of my generic 3/4" plywood table saw sled to fit the saw at work and I messed up the alignment on the first try. It's fixed now but my problem is I ran it past the running blade with it somewhat misaligned and now the kerf in my sled is about 2 blade widths wide. Instead of putting down a new thin floor and then recutting, I was wondering if there might be something I could just simply fill the gap with and then recut. That way I'd preserve all the height cutting potential the sled has that adding additional floor would take away from. So far I've thought of using either Bondo or regular wood filler. Whatever it is it'd need to withstand the blade cutting through it without chipping. Any suggestions for a filler?

Thanks for the link. Definitely appreciate the nice close up pictures of the edge. Went to a higher end dealer today and they ended up having 3/4" that was 11, if not 13 ply. Only problem was I need the plies to alternate in color and all their 3/4" had two of the dark layers together, making them useless for me. We'll have to see what their next batch looks like. Their 5?8 had the right alternating colors and thin layers so I ended up with a 60x60 sheet of that. After a charge of freaking $13 for a cut down the middle the total was right around $120. Guess I'll just have to get used to the price. Maybe I should feel lucky I don't have to pay shipping.

I'm trying to find this 9 ply, what I believe to be 3/4" baltic birch plywood but I'm not sure where it's sold. I usually go to Lowe's since it's closer but HD is here as well. The 1/2" bb plywood from Lowe's is 7 layers, the same thickness as in the picture. Their 3/4" bb is 7 layers as well, just thicker layers. I don't need a lot. Cost might suck some but I could see paying for shipping 2 1/4 sheets of this kind of bb if I had to. Would the bb plywood HD carries be any different? Is this higher ply plywood referred to by a particular name? Thanks.