bradleyheathhays

Anybody?

Hey everybody. Hope this winter is treating you well. Now that I've been frozen out of my shop for a while I've been nosing around the net for some new ideas and came across what was probably a more popular art form in the 70s, but is still quite captivating....parametric wall art design (pic below)...which of course led quickly to studying the gorgeous CNC machines that produce these designs and their associated software. I like the tiling feature the X Carve Pro offers but I haven't read about it being offered on any other CNC machine. What Inventables calls 'tiling' is where you can cut pieces larger than your CNC table by sliding your wood/material through and let it do one section at a time. 1) Is there any way to make the AVID PRO 510 do this tiling function or is this something only Xcarve has right now? 2) V Carve Pro is SO expensive! Is there ANY way to get it cheaper than it's retail price? I've seen where you can get an activation code if you're part of an educational group, so wonder if that could be cheaper. Also, would be nice to be able to split a subscription with someone. 3) I believe I've seen where Fusion 360 was suggested as a good program to use if you're working with parametric designs. Any opinions on this? 4) And last, I'm still searching for the best forum to ask these kinds of CNC and software questions. If there's a more appropriate place than here please do let me know. Thanks

Just got this ancient Grizzly 16" band saw for fairly cheap with the idea I need to replace just about everything to get it up to speed again. Right now I'm trying to get the wobble out of the machine (seen when running) and the first thing I'm gonna replace are the 2 drive belts. I've heard about a new (to me) type of replacement belt that is supposed to turn more smoothly and is adjustable with links in it. Not sure what they're called but would they be an appropriate replacement part for this saw?

Thanks wingless. Was going to open it up and see what I could figure out but now the thing seems to be working fine. Mom's used it a lot more often recently so it seems increased use has helped loosen up whatever is causing it. I'm guessing it'll return to being crank again when the usage goes back to normal.

Anyone?

I'm not sure what brand it is, she might've said Hotpoint, but her dryer is a fairly simple design and it's begging to have starting problems. When it's set to go and the start button is pressed the heating element heats up but the bin doesn't turn. If you open the door and rotate the bin by hand then apparently that loosens it up enough to start when you press the button again. If you run a second load of clothes after the first it'll start up ok with just the start button, but if left sitting for much time it requires a hand start. Once it gets going it runs just fine. I'm hoping this symptom is enough to diagnose what parts going bad and go in to do the swap. I don't have any experience working on a clothes dryer but I've changed out electric motors and bad capacitors on other equipment so I figure I should be able to get this done.

Recently found a 16" Grizzly band saw and I'm in the middle of tuning it up. 1) How much is this used saw generally worth? Guy seemed knowledgeable and said it had a really good motor. 2) What does the bearing above the two guide bearings do? Doesn't seem to touch anything. 3) Guy said the thermal overload dial should be set according to certain parameters but I'm not sure what they are. 4) Any clue about it's model number? All I could find was the sticker stating 16" band saw. 5) The bottom wheel has some play in it so I need to replace the bearing. Any advice on replacing it? Doesn't seem like a socket has enough room to fit over that nut.

I just got a used Craftsman table saw and although I'll eventually upgrade I've got to deal with using this one for now. You don't find too many cheap used saws that work well and have a riving knife built in. This one doesn't have a specific riving knife, but it has a blade guard that's supported by what effectively serves as a riving knife. Problem is the blade isn't lining up with the 'knife' even though all parts seem to fit together as they should. Are there spacers out there that are designed to adjust a blade left and right on the arbor? Also, my new blade, a 7" Diablo combo is .04 thick while the saw's knife is .08. So in addition to adding a spacer on the arbor it looks like I need to get a thicker blade. Any suggestion there? Question (subject) number two...caulk adhesives that will stick to plastic. I use liquid nails heavy duty for a lot of my slap together projects but it doesn't seem to stick to regular 4 mil sheet plastic that well. Can anyone suggest a caulk tube adhesive that sticks to both sheet plastic and wood well?

Any opinions on this Oliver planer at $769 w/ Byrd shelix ... https://olivermachinery.net/12-5in-planer vs. this Laguna at $599 w/ carbide cutters? https://lagunatools.com/classic/planers/px12/

I've since been told the WEN uses HSS cutter inserts instead of carbide and they're only 2 sided as well. I've seen another version of the 13" WEN sold with a 3 knife head for a little over $300. Wonder if someone makes a replacement carbide cutter head for it? Also, someone suggested this Oliver planer. Any opinions on it? https://olivermachinery.net/12-5in-planer

Is the WEN PL1326 spiral planer comparable to the Dewalt 735 w/ spiral head upgrade? Looking at buying my first planer and I understand the advantage of going with a helix head, but is the DeWalt in this case worth paying more than twice the price, $427 vs over $1K? I've read good reviews about this WEN planer as well as their customer support. WEN PL1326 thickness planer...

Yes thanks wingless I actually ended up turning my hard rake upside down and leveled like you described. Works well. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the floor tonight. Raked it even, sprinkled water, and tamped it all down. Leveled out fairly ok but not as good as I wanted. It's got some shallow spots I'd like to fill it possible. Any suggestion for any kind of floor leveler that would work on a floor like this that's gonna remain damp (with my continued watering) for about the next week as it cures?

I'm trying to even out my dirt/rock garage floor by adding 3-4 in of 1/4" and below limestone fines and mixing/raking in type I / II portland cement into the top 2-3 in. Idea was to use a plate compactor to get it mashed down then sprinkle with water, compact, sprinkle. Well, the small rock mixture with the slippery cement powder doesn't seem to be suitable for a plate compactor as the machine tends to borough down through the substrate spitting it out from the sides, even at it's slowest speed. This is a problem I'm guessing larger rock mixtures don't suffer from. So now I'm left trying to figure out how to get this stuff compacted, I guess by hand? The good news is the rock the machine managed to compact looked fairly good with no gaps. The cement is mixed in thoroughly and fairly deep. Although I'll be watering/misting I'd say gingerly I plan on giving it enough water so it reaches the bottom layers, and keep it damp over the next week as it cures. My only ideas for compacting so far are either a 8x8 hand tamper or possibly a weighted roller? Any suggestions?

I have this barrel top that I'd like to clean up for a project. Wood guy that I got it from said to just use water and a wire brush but I'd like to take better care of it than that. The white specs aren't actually there; photo anomaly or something. What kind of cleaner would go well with a nylon brush to clean things up here?

Eyeing this jointer for sale, auction actually, and I can't tell if it's 6 or 8"; I want to say 8. Also, is it worth buying?...only 3/4 HP motor.

What's the best way to secure 1/2" walls of HDPE together for a wood/resin mold? Drill and tap holes in the edges and use course thread screws?

Whew, tool buying fever. Itchy fingers too. Well, I’ve just learned about duplicating systems and since that’s exactly what my application calls for I better go for that option. I really started to go for the Jet 1221VS but the duplicating systems I’ve seen require the motor be mounted behind or to the left of the spindle and the Jet has it mounted underneath. I was directed to a Grizzly model that has a ‘copy attachment’ included but was advised against it. So far this is the only model I’ve seen where the duplicator comes with. Can anyone suggest a lathe / duplicator combo other than the $370 one at Rockler?

Since my original post I've been advised against the WEN so I'm afraid I'll have to avoid that one. I've just come across this Delta 46-460 lathe at Lowes for $698. I can get the extension and stand on my HD credit and have a 1 HP motor and 42" bed. Quality product? https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-21-5-in-x-34-5-in-Variable-Speed-Wood-Lathe/4743323

Thanks for reading. I’ve finally had an idea good enough to sell that I’m in the market for my first lathe. I’ve got about $600 in store credit at both HD and Lowe’s so for now I’m gonna settle for something that’ll get the job done and then upgrade later. Any opinions about this WEN lathe from HD? ... https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-6-Amp-14-in-x-20-in-Variable-Speed-Benchtop-Wood-Lathe-34034/306031795

Say you had a 1/2" thick sheet of plexiglass and needed to tap a hole that was drilled beginning on the edge and continuing in 3 in. What type of thread density would you choose, coarse or fine? The strain on the anchor will be fairly minimal.

I'd like to convert a regular sized refrigerator by cutting out the divide between the freezer and fridge compartments so that the whole thing maintains the same temp. Additionally, I'd I'd like to modify it so that it maintains between 50-60 deg F. Only problem is I don't know enough about how fridges work to know if it's possible. Anyone have advice on getting something like this done?

Long story short, I've got some projects coming up where I need to maintain a consistent temp around 45 F for a few days. Only way I know how to do that is in a fridge, or possibly by turning my extra 1/2 bath (small) into a cooler using a window a/c unit. I think most window a/cs now a days have thermostat control and some of them are digital. I'm thinking I'll need one with some kind of non-digital dial type control. Rewire the thermostat to remain a closed circuit so that the a/c cools whenever it gets power. Then put a separate thermostat in-line with the power cord and control the temp that way. Questions are... Anyone see a problem with this setup? I wonder if it would harm an a/c to have ~45 F / 7 C intake air?

Unfortunately someone else got to this 14" right before I committed. I ended up with a decent 12" Craftsman instead. Sturdy factory base with some kind of original built-in digital readout although I'm not sure if it works. Saw runs fairly well with 6" cut height, 2 speeds, 1.25 hp, and a huge table that tilts 45 deg.. Any suggestion for good performing but economical belts or tires? I'm finding sets of tires on Amazon for around $18 but I'm wondering if that's too cheap to be any good.

Well, lesson learned is if it walks like a bad capacitor and talks like a bad capacitor, it very well could be a bad centrifugal start switch...and that's what it turned out to be. After getting the new cap in it did the same growl no start and after getting it all apart and cleaning the switch it starts like a dream. Well almost, I have a replacement bearing on the way but after that this 30+ year old motor should run like new. Thanks for all the direction guys.

Just got this 30 year old Craftsman table saw for free because the motor's not spinning, 1HP 110v. Before sourcing another I'm curious if I can get this one working again. When you hit the power the motor makes a decent hum and sounds like it's trying to go. Also there's an quick intermittent screeching that I'm guessing is a bad bearing. If you take the belt off and spin the pulley it gets up to speed fairly quickly making no unusual sounds or vibration. The notched arbor protrudes from the opposite side as well and I get the idea I could kick start it with a drill if I could hack together some kind of adapter. If I can do say a $20 dollar repair I'd rather do that as opposed to $80+ for a replacement. Any idea what's gone wrong with this poor old motor?