Highdesert Splintermaker

Cool! And, if you know of a source for some professional or industrial studies that might be helpful I'd appreciate a link or contact info. I would also appreciate knowing if there is another thread on this site that deals with workshop design. Thanks. So, what's up with moving! New digs? More room for tools?

Hey - not a bad ides - especially if I get that pin nailer and several sizes of 15, 18, & 23 gage nails, etc.

6Gals. Here is the link http://www.lowes.com/pd_331410-67702-KNT65APR_0__?productId=3260195&cm_mmc=search_google-_-Tools_RTC-_-Hitachi_KNT65APR-_-knt65apr Lowes sells it here for $219.00 w/10% off for Vets.

Unlike the song, "I'm My Own Grandpa," I bought my own Fathers' Day gift. I ordered the Hitachi nail guns & compressor set (described above) from Lowes. Got it Wednesday and unpacked it immediately. I put off playing with it until Friday (other irons in the fire). Everything looks, feels, and operates in accordance with expectations and so far I'm very satisfied. Hitachi does cut one corner in the 3 piece kit. They provide a cheap cloth bag (you can't even call it canvas) instead of the molded cases for the individual nail guns. Guess I'll be looking for cases in all the cheap places. Hitachi also did neglect to provide the little plastic/rubber air coupling covers (don't want sawdust in my nail guns) so I added those (5 for a couple bucks from Harbor Freight). While I was there (ahem) I also bought their Central Pneumatic 18 ga. 2-in-1 nailer/stapler (68019) for $16.39. It also works as anticipated leaving its ¼" striker marks in the wood. The only way to avoid them (no depth adjustment on this tool) is to reduce the air pressure. Surprisingly,however, it does have both an anti-dry-fire feature and the air coupling cover. I plan to use this tool for the less visible rough work (glue joint nailing etc.) and save the wear and tear on the Hitachi for the higher quality demand finish work. All I need now is the Hitachi NP35A Pin Nailer to round out my set. Maybe next Grandfathers' Day!

I'd like to see a band saw with an adjustable height work table. Once you have a drill press installed with the head assembly situated at the best-for-you working height, you can easily raise or lower the work table to accommodate different stock thicknesses and drill bit lengths. Not so with the band saw. With the band saw all you can do is raise or lower the upper guide bearing assembly. If the band saw's work table is set at the "best-for-you" height for ripping, cross cutting, or free handing sheet stock (3/4" or less) and one day you want to resaw some 8 or 10 inch lumber you either need to lower the saw OR stand on your tool box to get at least 6 inches taller to be closer to the optimum hand/eye height to control the cut. With an adjustable height work table the initial set up of the entire saw could be a bit closer to the floor. The operator could use a relatively high table set up for flat cutting sheet stock and all you'd have to reset for resaw work is lower the table roughly three quarters of the height of the taller lumber and raise the upper guide set a bit. Hey Jet, Rikon, Steel City, and Powermatic - are you listening? Added 22 April, 2014 Worthy of mention is that neither the upper nor guide bearing assemblies alter the path of the blade. Those assemblies exist only to prevent the 'normal' blade path from being distorted unrealistically by sudden or unorthodox movement of the work piece being sawn. Therefore, if it is necessary to move one of those guides closer to or further from the other, why not leave the upper one stationary and move the lower guide bearing assembly up and down with the work table?

I'm in the initial stages of designing and building a new small workshop. It will take up one bay of a three car attached garage. After parking two cars inside I’m left with only about 9’-6” of usable width and the garage is only 19' deep. I do have a 9’ ceiling but the ceiling joists are 2x4 (not 2x6 or 2x8 like most ceilings) so I can’t suspend any significant weight overhead. I have a standard roll up door at the apron end of that 19’ and a 30” man door (that swings in) to contend with on the opposite end. The up side is that I do have about 174 sq. feet of floor space and 185 sq. feet of wall space with a small window centered in the long wall (Ah - some daylight!). The garage interior is finished (insulated, dry-walled, and painted). And, unless I elect to park one or both cars outside (for additional short term project space), I shouldn't have to move shop equipment to accommodate the cars. I'm planning on both a free standing workbench and a wall mounted multipurpose work surface. I’ve searched the internet, the library, inquired of local and state agencies, even emailed a couple college professors - but no one seems to be able or willing to tell me how to establish the ‘appropriate- for-me’ working heights for my various power tools. So, except for either best guess estimates or trial and error, I have absolutely no idea how far above the floor my bench grinder, band saw, drill press, radial arm saw, table saw, router table, or bench top planer or jointer should ideally be. Sadly, there is almost no agreement for the above floor height of the most common wood shop power tool – the table saw. It seems anyone who does venture an opinion in this arena hedges their bet with some version of “the final choice is up to the individual.” It’s as though suggestions pertaining to floor plan layout (tool placement in the horizontal plane) are fair game for all but, the height above the floor (tool placement in the vertical plane) is sacred ground requiring a PHD in some unknown science. I think it far more likely that no one in the home workshop industry, publishers of shop design magazines included, have taken or even want to take the time to ferret out the applicable methodology and then translate it into an easy to understand presentation. Come On People - our very existence clearly confirms - its a three dimensional world. I strongly suspect, even for a tool as simple as the lowly band saw, that there may be more than one right answer. For example re-sawing a 6 or 8 inch tall piece may be better performed with the work table a bit lower than ripping, crosscutting, or contouring ¾” flat stock. What complicates the issue is that, unlike most drill presses, band saws don’t have adjustable height work tables. It’s also likely that multiple human factors will affect the best user relative tool elevation above the floor. Most shop power tool operations require hand-eye coordination so there has to be a blend of physical and visual access to the point where the wood meets the tool. The fields of anthropometrics, ergonomics, etc. seem to provide little help as to how to arrive at the best practical working heights for the various common pieces of wood shop machinery. Anthropometrics takes one particular group of people (Filipino females for example) and boils them down to an average set of physical dimensions. The object here is to be able to design for compatibility with the greatest number (the center of the bell curve) for that particular group. Ergonomics, on the other hand, attempts to find what works best for businesses in reducing RMIs (repeated motion injuries) thereby reducing the employers’ liability. Insurance companies have risk reduction experts whose sole job is to assess working environments and make recommendations to client firms regarding how to lower the potential for medical claims. Or, to put it more concisely, ergonomics attempts to make the workplace and work related tasks adjustable to the individual. The bulk of ergonomic studies is most often focuses on the extended use of computers while seated however, and is therefore of little use to those of us standing while using one of many very different power tools in our home workshops. Sadly, the Dept. of Occupational Safety and Health in my home state claims to have no workplace ergonomic information whatsoever. Today, our domestic furniture manufacturing is either so highly automated there is little need for the application of ergonomics or the manufacturing has been moved offshore where RMIs and the related employer liabilities are someone else’s problem. I cite furniture manufacturing simply because I know of no other industry where as many similarities to modern home wood working with power tools might exist. I also know of no other single hobby or interest where so many are so involved, and so deeply exposed to the multiplicity of power tools, and yet are so poorly informed as to how to determine the proper setup height for both maximum safety as well as enjoyment of use with a minimum discomfort. While most tool manufacturers do an excellent job of designing their tools for us humans to use, they seem to share a shameful kinship by remaining totally mute on guidelines for the vertical placement of those tools in relation to the specific individual DIY owner/operator. Neither guards, nor bullet lists of DOs & Don’ts, nor cautions to unplug during set up, remove neckties, or wear hearing, eye, and respiratory protection, etc. can make up for either the discomfort or the dangers of operating any power tool at the wrong working height. Some ‘erector set’ tool stand kits can be assembled to mount different tool base sizes and shapes but seldom offer any height adjustability. Those that do defer to the tool manufacturer to convey the critical information necessary to set up a particular tool & stand combination to the user appropriate height – a tail-chasing circle with no useful information. Somewhere the pertinent information must surely exist. Let’s face it, in the workplace most of us trust our employers (under OSHA regulations) to provide us with optimum ergonomic working conditions. In the home workshop it’s a whole new ball game. You have to make your workshop both a comfortable and safe place to work if you are to enjoy rewarding results without physical discomfort or injury. I have no idea how many serious injuries annually in the United States are related to the use of power tolls in home workshops but I do hold the belief that number could be reduced by having each tool correctly set up at the best working height for both the operator and the task. Therefore, considering that (with the possible exception of contractors) home work shop activities today probably exceed the number of man hours doing similar tasks in the workplace; I feel all modern home woodworking tool manufacturers, retailers, advertisers, publishers, and the various state industrial safety organizations share the responsibility for shining some real light into this very significant and most neglected aspect of home workshop design. Because people aren't manufactured, and tend to not develop to uniform physical dimensions, work bench heights aren’t standard either - far from it. So, the height dimension in any otherwise good workbench plan is only a best guess starting point suggestion. Trolling the internet for "workbench height" recommendations only results in finding that many more of us out here are asking the exact same question. I found tips from six woodworkers there, plus one about optimal workbench height suggestion from a woodworking tips site. I feel sure there’s much more information out there on this, maybe from OSHA, ANSI, or some other standards organization or an insurance company risk reduction specialist. Still researching for ideas about the applicable ergonomics best suited to establishing the best working height-for-me for each of my wood working tools both power and manual! Any help out there would be most welcomed?

Years ago this guy tried to market his SawStop safety brake mechanism (either supplied or made under license) to most if not all of the major table saw manufacturers. After several years of no takers (perhaps it was a pricing issue) he decided to go into the table saw business himself incorporating his patented safety brake device in all models. The technology is great and pretty simple BUT, and this is a BIG but, he will no longer make the safety brake device itself available to any competitor and is bent on running them all out of the table saw business unless they can make their saws equally safe. The primary purpose of the safety brake device, operator safety, is being used as justification for all his legal attempts to monopolize the market that rejected his offer to supply or license.

I remember when The Garcia-Mitchell line of fishing reels went from bronze gears to nylon back in the 60's. Within the next couple years their entire line of open face reels literally vanished. Any manufacturer who does this is clearly saying, "I'm going to take your money but I'm only going to give you junk in return."

Steel City Tool Works.

That would work just great 'till you took the shop out of the drawer and as you restored it to full size the tiny splinter in your finger grew to the size of a 2x4.

Hey! A light saber with a sonic rip fence and a sonar depth stop - perfect for removing those tight knots from clear birds eye maple - right??

An update to my earlier complaint about no quality 8" bench top jointers available in today's market. I've been in touch with the power tool manufacturer that's currently playing catch up with a 6 week backlog of its helical head 6" jointers. Essentially I told their customer service rep. most of what I cited in my earlier entry under this topic. Consequently, they are apparently somewhat surprised to confirm my market assessment and are seriously looking into producing an 8" bench top helical head jointer similar to their current 6" jointers. It may even already be in the design stage. I've been advised to keep checking for product line updates. Wonders never cease!

Its the all metal version without double insulation or a three prong plug. I replaced the power cord many years ago. Perhaps I should retrofit a new three wire cord with the grounding plug.

Most of my nailing will be done in the shop so right now I'm looking at a two gun and compressor kit from Hitachi. The kit (KNT65APR) contains the EC510 compressor, the NT65MA4 15g, angled finish nailer, the NT50AE2 18g finish nailer, plus a hose and a few strips of nails - all for just over $200. Its like getting the compressor free. The reviews I've read put this set somewhere in the above average but less than exceptional quality category. Does anyone out there have experience with this or similar Hitachi equipment?

Shopmate ¼" Drill - I selected it as a prize for new subscriptions as a Cleveland Press carrier in 1958. Yep! I've had it for 55 years and, although I seldom use it (aren't those cordless drills handy) it still works.

My list is slowly getting shorter but I fear that, to woodworkers, that next tool is every bit as addictive as fishing rods, reels, and lures are to fishermen. Right now I'm looking at pneumatic nailers & compressors, compact fixed/plunge routers, and making my own dust abatement system. That should keep me busy 'till next Fathers Day. As to the source of those tools - my two unreasonable facsimiles are off having kids of their own. We need a grandfather's day - - Yeah!

Most of us still have that one tool we've put off buying but still want. If only I had that new ? I could - etc. - etc. - etc. So tell us what tool you're eyeing, and what project you'd undertake if it magically appeared in your shop on Father's day!

I've already posted my answer to this question under another thread - something about "Are tool manufacturers stupid or what?" My response, however, is that I'd like to see 1.) a drill press designed for woodworking, and 2.) a reasonably priced 8" helical bench jointer. Reasons and details are as cited in my previous post.

Both Lowes & Home Depot have multiple stores in the Reno/Sparks area. If one store doesn't have what I need their sister store usually does. We also have a couple ACE Hardware stores but I find their prices are not competitive. All offer Veterans a 10% discount on any for-personal-use purchase - just show your military or VA ID. Neither Lowe's nor Home Depot's web sites will allow the Veteran's discount when ordering online but you can place your order by phone and get it. I've not tried to order anything by phone or online from ACE.

I don't know if they are stupid or simply unobservant. Most businesses today are holding every nickel so close to their eyes they can't see a dollar two feet away. They would all do well to look around and certainly to read these blogs as many valid observations are cited quite clearly - both here and on other similar websites. My observations concern two tools - drill presses and jointer/planers. Drill presses are designed primarily for metalworking and then marketed in those places we go to buy woodworking tools. There are primarily two reasons today's drill press offerings are wrong for woodworking. The speeds are too high and the work table designs are all wrong. Most drill presses, especially the bench configurations, turn too fast for many woodworking tasks. Unless you get one with 10 speeds or more you get only three (possibly 4) speeds of 750 rpm or less suitable for drilling only the smaller diameter holes in hardwood. The second problem is that most drill presses come with work tables that are great for capturing cutting fluids (used only for cutting metals) but have very poor to nonexistent compatibility with woodworking requirements. While most drill press work tables can be squared (adjusted for perpendicularity to the quill axis) or tilted to one or both sides, they lack the ability to adjust or tilt front to rear. Most are almost impossible to clamp to, won't accept a fence, are difficult if not impossible to attach an auxiliary jig or fixture to make them more woodworking compatible, and (last but not least) is that too small center thru-hole that won't accommodate even the modest sized spade or forstner bits. The worst of all circumstances rear their ugly head when you try to use the same drill press for working both metal and wood. Once you've used it for metal; clean it up for all you're worth and you still come away with oil and metal shavings pressed into the surface of your wood. Seems to me a simple conversion kit consisting of a larger replacement work table and support arm assembly and a lower ratio sheave (pulley) set might be one solution. But, the real winner will be the first manufacturer that comes out with a benchtop drill press specifically designed for working wood. Jointers, and planers but mostly jointers, seem to be going through a transition. There are only two reasonably priced 6" bench jointers on the market today and no 8" bench jointers at all, reasonably priced or otherwise. The only 6" bench jointer with segmented helical heads is marketed with either granite and cast iron in/outfeed tables. Its manufacturer is currently unable to keep up with current demand. Why is that demand not being met? you might ask. I suggest the reason is; there is far too big a price gap between the 6" bench jointers and the least expensive 8" floor jointers and, once again, there is no 8" bench joiner available period. Most of us frequently work with rough sawn lumber much of which won't feed through a 6" machine. But, in order to accommodate any additional width were faced with having to pay an additional 200% price jump. How many of us will actually process enough wood wider than 6" to justify that additional $800 or more expense for an 8" floor jointer? And, if you want an 8" jointer with either a segmented helical head or granite tables - good luck! Most of us neither need nor have storage space for those overpriced "aircraft carrier" status symbols. But, the market currently appears to be more than ready for an 8" segmented helical head bench jointer (cast iron or granite) with an overall length of up to 4 feet (1.2 mtrs) that would sell for up to double the price of it's highly in demand 6" little brother. Hope I haven't stepped on any sensitive toes. Let me know if you think I've missed the mark.