My new 2 cycle small engine carb adjusting tools.

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I let gas sit in my Husqvarna chainsaw over the winter. It refused to start. I got some non ethanol premix with stabilizer, from the dealer but it still would not start. I took the Zama carb off and flushed it with carb cleaner. After re assembly it started on one pull. It ran for a few minutes and went dead as a door nail. I have good spark and the lines are clear. The one thing I did not do the first time was remove the Hi and Lo needle valves. For those of you that have never worked on chain saws and weed whackers, The EPA does not want you messing with the carb on that tiny little engine as you might destroy the planet. Never mind that people throw these tools away because they cannot get them to run right or even start. To keep you out, the needle valves cannot be adjusted with any standard screw or nut driver. They have come up with a whole bunch of odd shapes like 7, 21 and 22 spline, D, double D, Pacman, etc. The dealer will not sell you the tool claiming EPA fines. He probably just wants the work. The joke is you can get a single tool or a set with as many as ten different tips on ebay, Amazon, Ali Express, etc.Almost all are are generic, all are made in China and only the handle shape varies. I eneded up getting the one branded set I found, on the Walmart marketplace. The same guy sells on Amazon. The set is the Performance Tool /Wilmar 6 piece set. It has their nice overmolded red on black handles with a picture of the bit shape printed on th back. I got the 21 spline i needed. It fits. Tomorrow I will pull the carb again and this time I can remove the needle valves and hopefully get it clean enough to keep it running. Amost every one selling these tools says "Only for adjusting to EPA standards". As if you could put an exhaust gas analyzer into a weed whacker. LMFAO !! They get adjusted to idle and run. My Honda powered pressure washer has an idle screw that has a cap glued on the idle screw that has a pointer on it. The engine has two projections next to the screw. After factory adjustment the cap is glued on, limiting adjustment to about a 1/4 turn total, between the stops. The dealer service procedure is to break the needle valve, remove the broken stub and replace it. Then they adjust it and glue on a new limiter cap. I could never get that thing to idle, after a while. That pointer on the screw or the stops on the block are coming off. I don't think replacement carbs come that way.

 

 

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