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Douglas Fir finish

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I built a table 28x64 I did with a Douglas Fir plywood top. Its the good grade ply with one side sanded and no defects but its not cabinet grade.

The grain is typical peeled rotary like so the rings are swirly and not tight light quarter sawn fir. But its clean and no holes etc.

I was going to veneer it but veneer is too pricey nowadays. So I will keep it simple and use 3 coats of satin poly or maybe Tung oil...??

Tung oil is nice on D fir but thats when its quarter sawn. Do you think Tung Oil would look good on DF plywwod,higher grade plywood..?

I do want protection also which is why I thought of just poly. Some people say Tung hardens  but I dont know..

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for over 20 years tung oil was one of my favorite finishes. i always prefered the penetrating oil over the surfaces finishes for interior work. the furniture i have done with tung oil has held up really well. it depends on what you are using it for. if it is going to be exposed to moisture a surface finish would be better. i prefer varnish over poly. dont like the way poly yellows and becomes brittle over time. the water born poly is more non-yellowing but will still yellow alittle in the absence of sunlight. varnish is naturally uv resistance. recently the waterlox finish has become my favorite finish for furniture and cabinets.if you do try this finish be sure to follow the proper steps. you always start with the original which has a 50-55 sheen which puts it in the semi-range, being your doing ply you may have to put 3 to 4 cts of this on. i always bring my ply up to 220 even 320 grit for the first ct. then i will follow with 400 thru 1200 grit for next few cts. your last ct will be the sheen you prefer weather it be satin finish or gloss finish. the tung oil finish is a fine finish but the waterlox is more durable [can be used on floors] and more water resistance.

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