Charles Harris
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Posts posted by Charles Harris
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Those lugs must be fastened at no more then 50 foot pounds, otherwise that little M12 would have had big trouble. I still say M18 impact driver or go with an impact wrench.
The M12 Fuel impact is actually rated at 1200 in lbs. So that would convert to 100 ft lbs. It's a surprisingly strong little tool.
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If you are looking to get into a M18 tool. I have a nice M18 Impact driver I will sell for $45 + shipping. It's model number 2656-20. You would just have to pick up a battery and charger.
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Edit: The impact sold on eBay this morning.
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You would sacrifice a little torque going with an adapter.Thanks for the replies guys.
Anything between 100-150USD would be ideal if I was going to fork some cash out.
It sounds like investing in an Impact Driver is more versatile since I can use it in the house as well.
What would I sacrificing if I went with an Impact Driver with a Socket Adapter compared to getting an Impact Wrench?
The M12 Fuel impact usually runs about $169 for the kit ($119 bare tool) and is a strong little impact. It also has two speeds which is really handy when you are working with smaller screws. That is the tool I would recommend. I have used mine with an adapter to remove lugs on a utility trailer before and it didn't have any trouble. These are probably torqued to 75-80 ft lbs. You are not going to be able to pull lugs off of an F450 but it should work for a lot of light duty lugs.
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I actually think that I use my impact and screwdriver more, but I could do all of it with the drill.
The hammer drill/driver can just do a wide array of jobs.
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I never really thought about this that much. After thinking about is some and seeing everyone else's replies it does really shine the light on how important a good drill is.
I would also conclude from this that since the drill is most important a person should concentrate on getting a really good drill.
LOL it sounds like I'm already using this to try to justify another purchase.
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I have the k5 and I'm very pleased. I haven't used the k4 for a comparison though.
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If you are using one that much, I wouldn't even consider getting anything other than a brushless tool.I actually work at five different HD's a week assembling products.
I have a Ridgid kit already so I'm not looking for extra tools. - This one is like my kit - http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Hyper-Lithium-Ion-Combo-Kit-with-18-Volt-JobMax-Console-5-Piece-R9651-862004/204100855#product_description
I also have a M18 Milwaukee cordless hammer drill that I've used for many hundreds of hours, very hard use. I've been very satisfied with it's reliability and that makes me lean towards Milwaukee.
I use the impact for everything at the moment but it takes a bit of fine trigger control. It's great for things like wheel barrows and patio sets. The reason I'm leaning towards a clutched system is so I don't have to be careful sinking screws, I can just blast them down and let the clutch handle the whole not snapping the head off the screw thing.
I'm looking at cordless electric screwdrivers with a clutch system for maneuverability and reduced weight but I'm concerned with torque and rpm. (Rather ignorant in the realm of electric screwdrivers, lots of reading hasn't looked favorable for the smaller ones. )
It doesn't seem that anyone here has a lot of experience with the smaller ones or the smaller ones just flat out suck. I looked at the M12 one today that already has the 1/4" hex bit holder and the clutch. There is a pretty solid chance I'll end up buying it as it's substantially lighter than my impact. I also think it would be able to keep up with 50-60 hours a week in use with me. Not constant of course, I have to stop to position things, open boxes, unpack. I get paid next Friday and I'll probably report back on what I bought, and how it's working for me sometime the week after that, if ya'll are interested. Or life might throw a new and exciting money sink at me as it's so found of doing and then I'll have to wait a bit longer. *crosses fingers, don't you dare world.. mundane, boring... yes*
Thanks yet again everyone. I really wasn't sure what I'd run into when I got the idea to google for power tool forums, but you all have been great.
I have the Milwaukee M12 Fuel screwdriver and it is great. It sounds like what you are looking for. It's very strong and has two speeds just like the M12 Fuel Hammer Drill.
The reason I recommended the impact earlier is you said you wanted a tool with zero kickback. If thIs is important to you the impact will have less. The M12 Fuel impact is very easy to control on mode 1.
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That would be a hard choice but it would probably have to be a drill/driver. I would probably pick a sawzall second.
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Half a snap on tool box. LOL!
Seriously:
Milwaukee fuel M12 circ saw
Milwaukee tool box
Milwaukee Fuel grinder
Milwaukee Fuel Hole Hawg and bits.
Milwaukee M12 Led stick light
Milwaukee M12 Fuel 3/8" Impact
Dewalt 20v blower
Dewalt 20v trimmer
Dewalt 20v miter saw
Roll Aire compressor
Dewalt or Bosch Palm router.
Load of tetkon impact sockets
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I was at HD a week or so ago. They were still at $99 they had probably 10 circ saws and 8 grinders. I went back this weekend and they were all gone and at the clearance price. I guess someone went in and bought all of them.
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I've haven't been able to find anything interesting.
The only thing I saw was $20 off of $100 for Dremel.
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That looks like a great fit for the 18v X2 setup.
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Get two 2.0 batteries. Charge one while using the other and you have a small, light tool.
The runtime is great with the 2 ah batteries. Someone would have no problem keeping up with two batteries.
I like the XC batteries in the vac, hackzall, drill, and lantern light.
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Those Led lights look cool.
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I would recommend the Milwaukee Fuel M12 impact. The screwdriver would work great too, but you said you wanted zero to no kick. The impact no doubt has less counter torque. The fuel impact has two speeds which is very nice for smaller screws.
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People often forget that these wrenches are not just for lugs, they are for rusted CV-joints, breaks, exaust systems. See, once a vehicle gets old, the parts are often rusted, and thats where you need the power. Because if you have a lack of power, then you will have to start doing what I used to do when I had a crappy impact. You will have to use a combination of PB-blaster to penetrate the rusted bolt or nut, and then you will have to attack it with a propane torch to really heat the metal up. Then, maybe then, you will get that bolt or nut off.
But I do agree, if your not doing agressive vehicle restoration, then you don't need that kind of power. I am not going to stand here and tell you that you need to buy the biggest and baddest wrench there is. No, I am simply saying, buy the right tool for the job, buy what you think you are going to need, and that will probably be the right answer. Cause at the end of the day, only you know what you want or need. We are just here to help you justify your purchase
I agree. There are some places where that extra torque would come in very handy. I think about how useful it would be for heavy equipment. You would still need to use pb blaster and maybe heat for rusted bolts. The 2763 could just snap the bolt off otherwise.
I think the kit with the 2763, 2654, and Led light would be awesome.
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The 2791 is the combo kit with the non hammer drill.
The model of the drill is a 2603. I have that same model. Actually the non hammer 2603 and hammer 2604 are the same size and weight. The kit with the non hammer drill also comes with the compact batteries instead of the XC batteries. I happened up on a good deal on the non hammer drill version. If I was going to buy the combo new from HD now I would purchase this combo.
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That is cool looking. Bosch has 2.5 AH compact batteries now?
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Milwaukee has a 18 volt miter saw
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Has anyone been able to get one of those here in the states?
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Here is a good video on this subject.
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Most people don't need a HT Wrench, I sold mine. If a compact wrench can remove your lug nuts, why would you need something bigger, heavier and 3-5 x more powerful?
I fit into that category. I ended up selling my HT wrench and getting a compact 3/8" wrench. I have a lot more use for it and it doesn't have any trouble pulling normal lugs.
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That sums it up pretty well.It's the Internet man, we've all seen all kinds of videos of people doing all kinds of stupid things. TIA had a jobsite fail video of someone demoing a concrete floor they were standing on, and falling through to the basement.
Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it should be done. I try to work the most ergonomic way possible, and try to give my tools the same consideration. Things last longer when they aren't put under the potential stress of uses they weren't intended particular intended for.
As mentioned, an impact makes a poor hammer drill because the impact mechanism and the hammer mechanism are different applications of a similar design. Same reason a hammer drill is a poor mans SDS rotary hammer.
This isn't to say I haven't abused tools before. In a pinch it will work, but it's a temporary solution to hopefully a short term problem. Long term use and common sense dictates getting a better tool for the specific application.
I guess a person could just hit the back of the impact driver with a little sledge hammer while it's turning to get the hammering action.
From my experience a rotary hammer is the way to go. If you don't drill very often or only drill really small holes a hammer drill will work good. I would only want to use an impact driver as a last resort.
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Actually the pliers trick might help. The trick with masonry is always just to have impact of some sort. You dont cut concrete. You grind it or you break it. Even though the action of an impact driver is not ideal for drilling concrete it helps quite a bit the same way using a hammer drill strips screws less than a regular drill. Apparently it wasnt clear in my previous post I've tested all the methods I mentioned.
What makes you think a hammer drill strips screws less than a regular drill?
I haven't seen a cordless drill that can be put in screw clutch mode and hammer mode at the same time.
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What would happen if you tried using a impact driver to drill into cement like a hammer drill? just curious...
I think this question should be spit into two questions.
1. Do impact drivers and hammer drills operate the same way?
Answer: No. Impacts only rotate. Hammer drills rotate and beat the bit into the material.
2. Can you drill into concrete by only rotating the bit? (Impact driver or non-hammer drill)
Answer: Yes. It's not as fast but it can be done if you have the patience.
M12 Hammer Drill - For Automotive?
in Milwaukee
Posted
Ahh that makes sense. Yeah I wouldn't count on the brushed M12 to remove any lug nuts.