jeffmcmillan

That actually looks quite practical. I'd say one of the safest ways to make a cut along a wall. If you really want dangerous try mounting a carbide tipped blade on it for a flush cut in wood.

Really shows the Makita has more power behind it even if the Milwaukee has more torque. The long lag has a lot more spring so it makes the difference much more visible. Other situations the Milwaukee might win, but looks like the Makita will win 90+% of the time.

Ricky, it's time to periscope a Home Depot trip.

Good choice. No cordless I've used had good runtime. It's about the only handheld tool I still use corded. Hopefully someone follows up Bosch with another brushless.

I'll believe that when I see it. They've been promising that tool fight for years.

Even the subtle teal is poor marketing compared to the bright red, orange, and yellow tools of other brands. I'm thinking of the makita sitting there quietly in the drill fight while dan and eric rave about the other two winners and all the losers.

Sometimes msrp on the blade is practially the same as the saw with Makita

I think hes putting the makita in his left hand to make sure it doesnt get an advantage.

The makita started so much faster it looked like they gave it a head start.

Does anyone still believe tool companies ratings? Even the accurate ratings are hardly correlated with performance. As for the specs for a shop vac, I doubt you're going to like any shop vac at any price. I count powerful, cheap, quiet, large (2.5 inch hoses go to large shop vacs), and compact. If you ever find a shop vac to fit all those let us know because I think everyone here would buy in a heartbeat. In the meantime you'll probably be happier with a dedicated vacuum or dust collector for your shop and a separate, smaller shop vac for the road. There are a number of toolbox style corded and cordless shop vacs that are compact, quiet, and mobile when you don't need so much power.

I'm partial to mauls over splitting axes because it drives wedges better and doubles as a sledge better than a splitting axe doubles as a felling axe. I also find a maul sticks less often. Quality really doesnt matter unless you overstrike frequently and want a stronger handle. I currently use an old rusty maul head found in a forest mounted on a trimmed down 2x2 and it works fine. Of course if I ever overstrike the handle will be shot but who here doesn't live on the edge.

Be careful with the batteries. Some stores leave batteries on some tools on the showroom floor (locked on of course) so people can get a feel for the tools. If the batteries look worn at all, dont expect them to work.

A less expensive, good quality box like that to use with existing tools would be great, but this is junk even compared to homemade versions. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=jigsaw+to+scroll+saw https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=circular+saw+to+table+saw https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=homemade+drill+press And for good measure... https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=portable+bandsaw+stand

Same here, but sometimes I burn the water.

The charger is just converting whatever it gets back to DC then filtering it so the waveform doesn't make much difference. A dirty signal could stress the components and cause the charger to fail faster but it's unlikely to fail before it becomes obsolete anyway.

The only difference is the sliding mechanism. The 'G' at the start stands for glide which is a proprietary(?) Bosch thing and a big improvement over a normal sliding miter saw.

Does it have a handle on the back to control the torque? Those can spin out easily since the body is hard to grip.

I have seen jobsites with a guy dedicated to moving and protecting the extension cord for each guy drilling to set rebar. There is definitely a market for this tool. It's just not you.

The right blade for what youre cutting is more important. As far as brands I would avoid diablo non-carbide because the blades are too sharp and will probably stall a hackzall if you put any force on the cut. The other brands of blades all seem about the same although I havent used the pricey lenox ones.

I'd take a skilsaw spraypainted yellow over a dewalt. Partially because I already have a dewalt in the backlog of tools to repair.

Usually impact wrenches are rated in ft-lbs and 1740in-lbs converts to 145ft-lbs which is not that much. If the lugnuts were over-tightened a bit or the required torque was higher than the average car (I don't know much about race cars) it could easily have trouble with the lugs.

500W should be plenty, but to be sure you can read the charger label. It should say something like 120VAC (some number)A. If you multiply those two numbers and its less than 500 it will work. Edit: http://documents.milwaukeetool.com/58-14-1808d1.pdf'>manual says 2.75A max draw so it will work. I dont know if milwaukee has car chargers but one of those would be much more efficient. Converting 12VDC to 18VDC with a switching converter is much better than having a 120VAC intermeduate.

I just assumed the price was comparable to most tools, not twenty times that. With a price so high I'd add a digit for good measure then market it to the government.

These are really limited by the heads Milwaukee markets. From the looks of the demos with a normal bolt cutter style head on these could do more than a set of 48" bolt cutters. Seems like a marketing flop not to release this with other head options that would make it more versatile and useful to more people.

Wow LAMU must be much advanced company to have reorganization and change name from LUMU already