jeffmcmillan

Is it one of those all steel blades designed (a long time ago) for plywood? Something like this? Despite those blades being designed for plywood I think they're one of the worst blades for it. I once saw one so dull that it was impossible to tell which way it should spin since both the marking and teeth were worn off.

I use a fine finish diablo blade and that works well enough. It could also be your depth set though. You'll get the best results with the depth set to about an eighth inch deeper than the material.

For a set of general use drill bits those are one of the best options. The largest downside I see with the pilot point is difficulty of sharpening which is probably more effort than it's worth. I think the saved time and cost from not needing a spotting drill is worth the cost to replace dull bits though since they last quite a long time for the price. Bottom line, you can't go wrong with Dewalt drill bits.

OCD in a place looking like that? Probably not. Personally I can't stand rummaging through a bag or pile for a tool while I'm working. In my shop everything is laid out in drawers or wherever I use it. Bags are only for throwing junk in to transport.

Your hilti is brushless.

Often they cut corners in the right areas and it sounds like they did with the miter saw. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4185327&postcount=6566

For now... Someday you'll point your phone at a screw and you driver will automatically load the optimal settings. Actually, this would be straightforward to set up with existing hardware and some code libraries. This might even be in the near future for milwaukee. Is everyone looking forward to paying for upgrades to the hardware they already own?

Brusheless uses permanant magnets in the rotor so more current can go to the stator windings which gives you more power. The closest brushed option was a permanant magnet stator to allow more current to the brushed rotor which is much less efficient. If you want more detail you need magnetic field densities and other black magic

Pretty picky for an end user. Just be grateful there's a cordless one even if it's just a new head stuck on an old angle grinder.

Why not use a table saw? I'll let others go into all the reasons miter saws have replaced radial arm saws.

Neither of those have a particularly high torque, in fact Makita is lagging quite a bit with impact wrench offerings. If you have a decent impact already I would wait for a good high torque impact The way Makita is going, one can't be too far off.

How many of those are waterproof? I've had enough "waterproof" flashlights killed by water I only use my maglites now. It's just not worth carrying a light that can't go for a swim.

Good blades but nothing to write home about. I would probably use them more if they were easier to find. I do recall the carbide being more impact resistant.

Besides one on sale and that one you posted, all the prices of 27__ tools match the price for the 26__ version. Maybe someone forgot to mention this is an upgraded version.

Yes. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Drill-Driver-Tool-Only-2703-20/206320079

Is that just a magnet for a hall effect sensor? You might be able to just stick another magnet in there. If it's only a year old, warranty would be a better option.

You're missing out. Don't wait till you burn up a pack of bimetal blades on some hardened steel to get one.

Since the 1/2" drive refers to the connection of the socket to the bar, you need either 1/2" sockets or a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for the 3/8" sockets. Because of the torque involved with a breaker bar though it's best not to use any adapters or extensions.

Has anyone tried this? I think it's held in place by the magnets so it would work on most screwdrivers too.

The only explanations I can come up with for the sudden curve at the end is either one of the slides is bent, or as the weight shifts too far forward it brings something out of alignment. If it was still giving a straight cut but at an angle that would be much easier to troubleshoot. Checking that the slides are still straight is straightforward. Checking if it's something else being loose is more difficult.

Most tools are novelties for most trades. When you work inside a cabinet or other cramped spaces though that type of tool is a lifesaver.

The slow cutting and trouble with turns are almost certainly a stroke length issue. Cutting material thicker than the stroke length clogs a section of teeth which holds everything up. Material more than twice the stoke length and a section in the middle never sees unclogged teeth. Stroke length is way more important than most people think.

Whats the point of adding this to a dying line when they have an M18 sds max

From the specs it looks like hilti got the extra torque by just dropping the speed. Their specs could be understated though. I hate the lump over the battery on the makita. Makes the battery hang off too far.

The cordless hole hog undoubtedly tops 1500 in-lb