HiltiWpg

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That’s not entirely true. The popularity of 12v tools with tradespeople contradicts that. There is a market for both to coexist. Having 2 tiers of battery size makes more sense than increasing the size and weight of all tools for the sake of a few higher demand tools. Eventually OSHA will regulate the size and weight of cordless power tools. I laugh every time I see guy doing trim work with a M18 Fuel Impact and a 9.0 battery. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Exactly! I have a separate packout parts containers for my wire nuts, mc/bx connectors and anti-shorts, splice parts, low voltage, machine screws, fasteners, and tap cons. I wish Milwaukee would have streamlined the cases a little, make the foot print a little smaller and lose the wasted space from the pointless corner aluminum. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I use Packout, TStak and Ridgid. Hands down, ridgid is the best overall. Tstack is very light-duty. Packout is well built, but oversized for what it can actually hold. The best part about Packout is the storage containers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://gsfslides.com Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

For us Canuks, the Hilti pricing has been the same. Even Home Depot used to sell the M12 Fuel impact/hammer drill kit for $249 retail. It recently went up to $299. The bare tool and combo kits are creeping up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man, every time I look at Milwaukee, the prices keep going up. They are officially more expensive than Hilti now. I am in Canada so I am assuming it’s worse in the US. Looking at Hilti 22v, the bare impact is $169. The Milwaukee Fuel M18 equivalent is $199. I was looking for some 12v compact stuff and the M12 Fuel impact / hammer drill combo was $299 CAD, with 1x 2.0 and 1x 4.0 battery. I got the Hilti 12v Impact, hammer drill, light and recip saw for $420, with 2x 4.0 batteries. The Hilti 22v rotary hammer is $349 CAD, the Milwaukee Fuel M18 is $379 CAD. What the hell? I get Milwaukee is popular, but they aren’t worth that much. Hilti warranty still decimates theirs. I guess they are trying to make up for all the free shit they have given away over the years! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stabila. Empire is good, but you have to check them before you buy. I have had to exchange a couple that read completely different from one side to the other. Avoid Milwaukee. Even though TTI owns empire, they didn’t share the quality. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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If it’s a brushed drill, the trigger switch. If it’s brushless, then you may need a new controller. The fact that removing the battery resets it sure sounds like a brushless still! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get the Hilti hard case. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Lol, it’s fake! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look for the star! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gotcha, a bandpass style enclosure could help. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Bass is all about sound pressure. Ideally you'd want to compression load those drivers, like have them down fire, or corner load them. Firing up will leave them sounding flat. The porting seems quite large too, that will also dampen the Bass. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

The problem is the insane waste of space in the first 3-4 inches of the boxes and organizers. For as massive as the boxes are, the internal volume is pretty small. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Ridgid is rebranded AEG. It's not a pro-sumer tool line. Many AEG tools found their way into Milwaukee's line up, rebranded red. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Not the biggest fan of the reviews, but hey, it's a decent look. https://www.protoolreviews.com/buying-guides/best-18v-cordless-drill-head-to-head-review/45244/ Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

These Subcompacts are out of control! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! I guess I was just expecting some kind of communication. It’s been 3 weeks without an update. Aside from that, I am still excited to try the product. There isn’t any real reviews or videos on the bag I bought, but the concept is pretty sweet. I hope they hold up well! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have a peak at this: https://www.makita.ca/data/upload/parts_breakdown/MLS100%20-%20JAN2015.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have any of you guys bought Atlas 46 tool bags or gear? How are they to deal with? I bought some gear a couple weeks ago and there have been zero updates, emails, shipping notifications etc. It’s kind of taking the excitement out of it. Poor customer service! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rohm and Jacobs Chucks are my favourites. EBay and Amazon are the easiest to get them from. Not sure if there are better chucks for the dollar, I am just an electrician! I hate Milwaukee chuck run-out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This statement is false. They are not “rated” to trip at 12a, nor will they trip in “minutes” of running above 12a (unless operating in abnormally high temperatures or other abnormal contributing factors). Please show the 12a “rating”. I certainly understand that non-continuous rated breaker will trip when under an increased continuous load. That was never a contentious point. You claimed a 15a breaker wasn’t actually rated for 15a. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I confirmed nothing.And thanks for repeating what I already stated. A 15a amp breaker is rated for 15a. It says so from the manufacturer. Nowhere does it state that they trip at 12a. Nowhere. Linking a UL white paper on breaker terminology does what exactly? There is no proof. Show me proof that states they are designed to trip at 12a. Because they don’t. Or they wouldn’t be rated for 15a, they would be 12a. I can run 14a all damn day and the breaker will hold. The 80% rule is Electrical Code. It’s not the manufacturers spec. It is meant to ensure that the continuous load of of a non-continuous rated breaker is no more than 80% of its rating. That means if I can prove that my load is non-continuous, I can load that breaker right up to 100% of it’s rated current. Continuous rated breakers are designed for the increased thermal demands over longer periods of time. Do you know what trip coordination is? If breakers behaved they way you have misinterpreted, I would be losing a great deal of money! Continuous and non-continuous rated breakers use the exact same trip-curves. Here is a nice, easy to understand link: https://www.schneider-electric.ca/en/faqs/FA104355/ Are you an electrician? It sure doesn’t seem like it or you would know better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk