electromage

Swapping the radiator in my 1990 Cherokee was pretty straightforward too, glad to see they haven't overcomplicated it.

I suck at programming and dancing.

I wonder if they padded the weight just to make you guess.

Maybe you and suretyler97 can trade

V40?

Odd, most people I know want smaller trucks. One of my clients restored a 70's Toyota Pickup, I think he used a rebuilt 2M, upgraded carbs, airbags, and a custom steel and hardwood flatbed. It looks awesome.

Nice whitewalls.

He has money, but also very little interest in tools and handyness. I'll suggest getting a cheap power supply from ebay if the specs are on the label. Otherwise yeah, probably B&D or Ryobi.

Ow.

I'll start: 2008 BMW 535i Sport, Space Gray. No performance mods, lowered slightly, ham radio. Just bought it this summer, but I plan to mod it some more. 1990 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) Laredo, Charcoal Gray. 2" lift, 30x9.5" Tires, JCR front bumper, cone intake, stainless exhaust w/Flowmaster 50, upgraded injectors, '91+ cooling system, Durango steering gear w/C-Rok brace, ZJ steering linkage, LED lights all around (everything except driving, fog, and spotlight for beam quality), dual battery system, onboard inverter, ham and CB. All work done by me so far. Exploring the beautiful roads of Washington And the other stuff

Here in the northwest US rust isn't an issue. My Jeep is 25 years old and it's just got a little surface rust on the external parts which aren't constantly sprayed with oil.

Those prices are insane. Those look like tools you'd find at Goodwill, you could definitely find a better deal on eBay for like-new or even refurbished.

Very nice collection, I'm a fan of Foursevens stuff, I bought my first Fenix and Zebralight from David when he ran Fenix-Store.com. I liked the Maelstrom G5 so much I bought three! Also my Q Mini 123 is one of the limited run warm white, one of the nicest tints I have, similar to the Luxeon K2 TFFC. How do you like the new style Preon?

It has taken me years! I sort of started around 2000, and took off when I joined CPF in 2005. The blue one is a Hexbright Flex, it's got a programmable microcontroller, so it can be programmed through USB using the Arduino IDE. It has two lights in the tailcap red/green, accelerometer, and thermal sensor. It can be controlled using any of those sensors, which leads to some interesting things. Right now it's running a program that allows it to be controlled by holding down the button and rotating or tapping the body of the light to adjust the output or select strobe modes. The small "air compressor" light is a Prometheus Beta-QR with NS finish (from Jason Hui/Dark Sucks). Both of those are from Kickstarters. I don't have an EC4, and may never. I tend to buy lights that have certain features that apply to other lights, but not too much overlap. For instance, the Fenix TK35 has comparable body style, led, and reflector to the EC4, and the EC11 has a comparable button interface. The SRT7 has about the same beam, but different runtime and UI. This way I can predict pretty well how certain lights will work by looking at aspects of lights that I have or use. I can't buy ALL of them! My TM11 wasn't very expensive, I paid $100. Sorry, I'd rather not talk about favorite brands. Any company can make a good or bad product, and this changes over time. Same with cars, phones, power tools... SureFire is the brand that I own the most of, but I've been adding more Nitecore lately. My primary EDC lights have been Streamlight, SureFire, EagleTac, Sunwayman, and Nitecore. The modded JetBeam M2S lives on my nightstand, and my AR-15 has a 4Sevens Maelstrom G5 in an Olight mount.

My friend has a Genesis brand 18V NiCd drill, and he lost the wall wart that powers the charger adapter, does anyone happen to know what the voltage/current specs are so I can find him a replacement? He knows the drill is a piece of crap, but he'd rather have a charged piece of crap than a dead one.

"Up to 75% off", so probably a lot less for the actual tools and kits. Also it looks like it's based on MSRP.

I don't have a problem! I can stop anytime I want! (I didn't paint that wall)

That might have to go on my wish list too! I have an SX25L3, and it's very bright. Generally well-built too, but I had a warranty issue. Pacific Tactical Solutions took good care of me and got the affected parts swapped out, it's working great now.

They look like 18650s. You're right though, 16340/RCR123s are usually around 3Wh/ea and 18650s are up to 12.5Wh.

You seem to be lost!

That's what happens when you can't say no in IT.

Turning off WiFi won't do much good anyway. I think the problem is that your phone is selecting HSP instead of A2DP (or AVRCP). Try installing an app such as A2DP Switcher from the Play store. When you run it, it should list your radio, and you can use that app to select it. It should force A2DP. Out of curiosity, how does the radio appear in your list of bluetooth devices, for example:

Sorry, I might be too young, but what do you mean by bootlegs? Are these music concerts that are recorded by fans in the audience, or unauthorized copies of official recordings? Are they video or just audio? Do you have any HF transceivers sitting around collecting dust? I'm a general class but I haven't found a decent starter HF rig, they seem to be $500 for an entry level model, new or used.

Yeah this looks like a great way to get into M12.

I like it. Did you offset the door to mount a lamp on the front? That or a small window would look cool.