fm2176

It looks like number 14, the loader coupler. The third picture at this link shows the threaded hole: https://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/products/milwaukee-2646-20-m18-18-volt-2-speed-48-inch-hose-grease-gun-bare-tool#!

58-14-2643d2.pdf It looks like there are two ways to bulk fill, including using a coupler. Page three of the attachment should cover it. I would think that bulk fill nipples are probably pretty standard.

Unless the release button is completely broken it should come off, but it could be either a tight fit or a heat related issue. Try a little tap with a non-marring or plastic dead blow hammer.

I forgot about MetaboHPT's MultiVolt system. They have a brushless jigsaw that can be used with the AC adapter.. Cost will be a bit high, though, at $229 for the saw and $169 for the adapter. I have a MultiVolt drill and circular saw as well as the adapter and can vouch that they are good tools with a good system. Essentially, you can use 18v or 36v batteries on 18v tools, and 36v batteries or the adapter on 36v tools, making the system similar to the 20v Max/FlexVolt systems. The difference is that the adapter is designed for all 36v MultiVolt tools while DeWalt's is only compatible with 120v Max tools (the sliding compound miter saw being the sole offering for now).

I haven't heard of any, and definitely haven't seen them. Brushless motors are usually used in cordless tools due to their efficiency. Others here may be able to better assist you.

I'm not sure how well a rebar cutter would work on a case hardened lock. I still haven't tried the Ryobi bolt cutter on one, but I can attest that regular bolt cutters get chewed up pretty quick cutting locks. Seven years ago I was tasked with ensuring the success of a new tactical equipment install. We had a Light Infantry brigade's worth of vehicles, which are usually secured with Series 5200 locks (this is the basic low security lock, also used in arms rooms, but it is substantially more secure than the average Master Lock). I had to use bolt cutters almost daily for a few weeks, as drivers would park their HMMWVs or other vehicles and lock them up for some reason, despite knowing the trucks had to be pulled into the maintenance bay. I broke at least three pairs, from decent enough Kobalts to cheap Harbor Freight ones, and damaged the jaws on the others I used. I even drill out one lock, which took far too long (this was before I had higher performing drills and batteries). Way back when, I ran rebar for a footing company. We had a manual cutter which worked pretty well, but we still had to touch up or replace the jaws fairly often. We usually ran #4 rebar, which was easy to bend for steps or bends in the footer, so I can't imagine that cutter holding up to hardened steels.

I came across this old Skil brochure in a metal jigsaw case I'm giving to a friend. It's dated 3/98 and shows how far power tools have come in the past quarter century. To put things in perspective, though, DeWalt 12v Max and 20v Max as well as Milwaukee M12 and M18 were all introduced a little over ten years after this was printed, so the writing was on the wall for the old 7.2v, 9.6v, 12v, and 14.4v Ni-Cad tools by the mid-2000s. Besides the cordless tools, the other Skil offerings from the time look blocky and lazily designed. I'm sure they did the job well back then, but most of today's tools are designed to be ergonomic and to distinguish Brand A from Brand B. The Skill Warrior cordless drills look similar to my Black & Decker Ranger from the mid-'90s. When I log into the computer I'll see if I can rotate the pictures.

I haven't had an issue with Milwaukee's warranty, but admittedly have only made one claim so far. Is it the battery that isn't charging, or the tool that isn't recognizing the battery? It seems odd that Milwaukee would claim that the tool was exposed to water is the cause for a battery problem.

I bought my second Ryobi pressure washer last night. I didn't really need the pressure washer itself...besides the Ryobi I have here there's at least in storage in Georgia...but for the price, $68, it was worth it. My first Ryobi pressure washer is a beast. No, it's not overly powerful, but it has sat outside covered in a trash bag for over 1.5 years, through hard freezes and all sorts of weather. I dragged it around the front of the house a few days ago, plugged it in and connected the hose, and it worked like it was new. The only problem is that somehow the nozzles disappeared. I have one nozzle on the wand, and can remove it to apply soap, but that's not exactly efficient as it simply pumps out a bunch of the cleaning solution. I do have my water broom and scrubber attachments, and I'm sure the nozzles are somewhere in the backyard (probably chewed up by the dogs), but why not just buy new nozzles? Besides, I needed some siding cleaner. Off to The Home Depot. When I arrived, I found a four-pack of PowerCare nozzles for $28. These don't include the soap nozzle I need. They have a five-pack of DeWalt nozzles for $38 that includes the soap nozzle, so I picked them up before deciding to look at the pressure washers themselves. My first, truly neglected Ryobi pressure washer was purchased at the same store a few years ago for about $79 on clearance, so they surely had something marked down. Then I found the new one. It's small, but it includes three nozzles including both a soap and turbo nozzle. The Ryobi turbo nozzle sells for $45 and the DeWalt $78. Further, there were no standalone soap nozzles, making the new pressure washer a no-brainer. Anyway, if you need accessories, don't overlook just buying a new tool if the price is right. As I told the wife when I got home, I not only have the nozzle I needed but also a spare wand and hose, and a backup pressure washer in case the first one finally dies.

Ryobi 1600 PSI pressure washer, was $119 ($99 on the site), now $68. Not a bad deal, even if just for the components. I'll share the story elsewhere and link here:

Glad to hear.

I don't see where the M18 grease gun comes with a bulk fill fitting, but I did find this: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products-Repository/North-America/Accessories/Miscellaneous/Applicators/49-16-2646. Depending on your needs that may work, but I'll search for an adapter later if I get the time.

I agree, $100 may be undervaluing it, but probably not by much. I don't sell a lot of things, but I have found that asking a slightly higher but still reasonable price "OBO" works better than setting a lower price. Either way, a potential buyer is probably going to try to talk you down a bit. I found a few mentions of Packard Precision drill presses on other forums. It seems the tools were imported from Taiwan in the '70s and '80s. I didn't find reference to the table saw, but the drill presses seemed to have gone for @$150 or so at the time various commenters posted. One thing that pops up in most of those threads is the common use of American or Western-sounding brand names for mostly generic Asian imports. Harbor Freight is an excellent example of this: you can get Chicago Electric and Pittsburg Pro tools in the same store! It seems that Packard Precision is one such brand, and shows that this isn't a recent phenomenon. Even so, you have a fairly vintage table saw in new condition, and it's a brand that even the naysayers seem to consider better quality than modern imports. To put it in perspective, Harbor Freight currently shows two 10" table saws, at $150 and $350. Big box stores sell 8-1/4" portable saws for $130. I'd at least double your asking price, but honestly wingless might have the best advice. Ask $500; that's almost $200 less than the Delta Lowe's sells. If someone offers $350, consider giving them a deal. If there's no interest at that price point, gradually relist it at lower prices.

When did the Tool Bug first bite you? Cheesy term, perhaps, but I'm sure I'm not the only person who started out buying something they needed and then looked at their workbench or in their tool boxes years later to find that they had almost everything imaginable, needed or not, and sometimes in multiple brands or platforms. I think the philosophy I adopted as a young mechanic evolved to where I am now. Back then, I had a code where if I needed to borrow a tool three times I'd buy it. Borrowing tools was usually not a big deal at the dealership, but it was kind of unspoken that if you needed to constantly borrow something you should probably get your own. This helped me out tremendously when I became a road technician. It's hard borrowing tools when you're dispatched in a remote location, and there were a couple of trips to Sears to buy something I didn't have (or broke on the jobsite). Also, having the right tools for the job makes projects or repairs much simpler. I've used my shared of adjustable wrenches and cheater bars, but having the correct size wrench and an actual breaker bar or impact wrench is much preferred. When it comes to cordless, the Tool Bug really bit me around 2014-2015. I had my first Li-Ion cordless tools and was able to find a few great deals to round out the platform. Around the same time the wife bought a house to flip, located in rural Georgia and in need of extensive electrical work. Of course, this meant relying solely on cordless tools, and at the time my only batteries were 1.3Ah. Those tools worked, but by the time the house was sold I was heavily into DeWalt and started to get into Milwaukee and other brands. Last year she bought another house, and until we replaced the electrical panel we relied on cordless tools, lights, and the DeWalt propane heater. Now the list of tools I want is small, and the list of tools I need much smaller. The Tool Bug is expensive to feed but the payoff comes in knowing that almost any repair or renovation can be a DIY job, especially in today's age of internet how-to guides and videos.

I found this comparison of the LCP Max and P-32. Basically, the LCP Max is about 1/4" thicker, over 1/2' taller and weighs 4 ounces more than the P-32. My other pocket pistol the Beretta 3032 Tomcat weighs more than the LCP Max but is smaller in most dimensions. When it comes to self-defense, though, I think the Ruger is worth the slightly larger footprint. Both the Beretta and Kel-Tec are .32 ACP with a 7+1 capacity. If I need to defend myself or others, I wouldn't feel unarmed with either of those, but would prefer 10+1 .380 ACP rounds. This is the first Ruger I've owned, though I'm sure I'll get another. I've long considered a 10/22 and wouldn't mind a Mini-14 or Mini-Thirty.

Well, I have my newest pocket pistol, a Ruger LCP Max. It's chambered in .380 ACP (aka 9x17 kurz) with a ten round capacity, and 12 round mags are available (the LCP II has a seven round capacity). The pistol cost $385 and came with one magazine, an extended floor plate, cleared chamber device, cable lock, and a nifty little pocket holster. It's been a long day, so I haven't done a side-by-side, but it seems to be roughly the same size as my Kel-Tec P32. I have some old ammo somewhere but plan to buy a box or two along with at least one spare magazine. I was tempted by a 3" barreled Taurus 856 for a little less, but decided to fill the niche of a .380 pocket pistol. They also had the G45 in stock. I was considering one a few weeks ago and may still get one eventually, but I don't think it will offer anything over the G17 when carrying. The barrel and slide are a bit shorter, but I may look into a G19 and/or G26 first. The LCP Max will probably be my mailbox gun, something to toss in my pocket when I go outside. Granted, the likelihood of needing a firearm is slim to none, but it's always better to have and not need.

If you think you need and and can afford it, go for it! The DCF850 has 1825 in-lbs of torque, or slightly over 150 ft-lbs. The DCF894 advertises 330 ft-lbs, while the M12 3/8" stubby is between those with 250 ft-lbs. The 3/8" ratchet is nice, I've owned one for a few years now and it sees much more use than my 1/2" Fuel.

Most of my air tools were stolen along with my compressor over nine years ago. I was left with my trusty and well-used Ingersoll Rand 231 impact wrench and ended up getting a 1/2" ratchet on clearance at Lowe's. I'll be honest, I haven't even thought of using air tools for years now. I have both the newer and older high torque and the mid torque M18 Fuel impact wrenches, DeWalt Xtreme 3/8" impact wrench, M12 Fuel 1/2" ratchet, and the standard m12 3/8" ratchet. I often think of how nice these would have been when I turned wrenches for a living, especially when I was a road technician often working on equipment in the middle of a warehouse.

Check around the site, and you'll find a lot of varying opinions. Here in the US, I think that most would argue that either DeWalt or Milwaukee are the "best" brand, with a strong subset of tool users preferring Makita or Bosch. MetaboHPT is also a very good brand but seems to lack the cult following of the other four. Other widely available cordless brands in the US include Craftsman, Porter Cable, Kobalt, Skil, Flex, Ryobi, and Ridgid. Of those seven, the ones I see most often on jobsites are Ryobi tools. I can't honestly choose one brand. I like DeWalt's ergonomics and looks, Milwaukee's power, and Ryobi's low cost.

True, for me sometimes it's a simple matter of what I can find. Tool organization is all but nonexistent at this time; I'm hoping to organize once I move back to my own house. DeWalt seems to have designed their grip almost perfectly, to the extent where most of their tools share the same basic grip design. The M12 Rocket really is great. I dragged my M18 Rocket out the other night and was reminded of how heavy it is. The M12, on the other hand, can easily be used as a giant flashlight, like I use it when crawling under the house. I had to repair some ductwork last year, so I used one of my M12 Rockets as a brace to hold it in place while the other lit up the work area. I don't have a Bosch rotary hammer (yet?). If I find a good deal I may add one to the collection, though. I have the 18v bandsaw, picked up for about $70 with a free battery starter kit, to complement the much smaller M12 version. Right now, my go-to rotary hammer is the only cordless one I own, the M18 Fuel D-Handle. I bought a corded DeWalt 1" SDS-Plus rotary hammer from an acquaintance a year or so ago for $30 but have yet to use it as it doesn't offer anything over the Milwaukee.

I'll have to check out Blaklader, but outside of safety toed shoes, I think I'm set on boots. I still have a few pairs of new mountain boots along with probably two dozen various black, coyote brown, and tan boots of various designs. Same with cold weather and work clothing to an extent. I'll probably get some more Duluth Firehose Flex pants, but military uniform pants are very common on jobsites over here, and the flame resistant OEF-CP ACU pants are extremely comfortable on the jobsite. Those heated cooled boots look...interesting. It doesn't get overly cold in my part of the world (at the height of winter it may drop to around 15 degrees Fahrenheit with wind chill). In my experience, dry boots are everything in the cold, and the last thing you want is for your feet to start sweating. At the same time, once your feet (and extremities in general) start getting cold, it's hard to warm them back up. I bypassed the heater core on my truck a few years ago and recently had to make a late-night trip in 20 degree weather. Let's just say that it wasn't exactly fun.

This is a power tools sub-forum, so I'll start with this question. Who owns DeWalt heated gear? I found a heated jacket in the now-closed Savannah, GA mall years ago, but it was a 2XL. It came with a 12v Max battery and an adapter very similar to my USB charger. Due mostly to convenience as they are available at The Home Depot, I own two Milwaukee heated hoodies (one since appropriated by my wife) and the softshell jacket. I like the fact that the DeWalt gear can use 12v or 20v batteries, but I've used my 18v Bosch USB adapters to power the M12 jackets. Among my daily wear items are some with DeWalt branding. The Columbus, GA Sears closed in 2017, and as usual the liquidation company jacked up prices before reducing them, causing the uninformed to go crazy buying those "50% Off" items for the same price they always sold for. I ventured into the store, perused and quickly left the tool section, then for some reason checked out the shoe section, finding DeWalt safety footwear. I ended up coming home with a pair of Baltimore steel toe work boots and three pairs of Wrench composite toe work shoes for a little over $100 total. Since then, the Baltimore boots have been worn relatively little, but the Wrench shoes are worn almost daily. One pair is heavily worn and the toe is held on with hot glue, another pair has seen decent wear, and the third pair is still new in the box, waiting for its turn. Unfortunately, DeWalt seems to have discontinued these, despite them still being on the website. I'd gladly pay full retail for another pair when these three are completely worn out. They are a bit bulkier than a regular running shoe but they are extremely comfortable. One other daily wear item for not only me but the family in general are the socks from this cotton boot socks and ball cap combo. I picked up a couple from Tractor Supply about five years ago, then when Lowe's started selling them on occasion, I went overboard buying more. I swear that I keep finding new sock/cap combos, as I grabbed a bucket and filled it up at least twice over the past few years. These socks are my mainstays not only for working and around the house, but also for my combat boots and running shoes when in uniform (though technically out of regulation). I probably have at least six of the caps floating around, having been worn a few times, then either washed or forgotten about. Of course, I've given away a few of the caps as well. DeWalt makes a variety of different workwear, but around here the Milwaukee gear is much more visible due to its presence in The Home Depot. Besides the jackets I have a few of the insulated caps and some gloves, both insulated and not. Sears was the best place to find DeWalt clothing and accessories before its almost complete demise, however, now it seems that online retailers are the best source.

I saw these on ToolGuyd last night. There are three sizes--6, 9, and 12 gallon--and three interchangeable heads: a single battery head designed to outperform 3.5 peak HP vacuums, a dual-battery head designed to outperform 4.5 peak HP vacuums, and a 6.5 HP AC head. A bunch of attachments and accessories are also being launched. I have the small M18 wet/dry vacuum as well as the DeWalt DCV580 and DCV517, Ridgid cordless hand vacuum, and the Ryobi 6 gallon cordless. If the price is ever "right" (on clearance for 50% or more off), or if I really need something like this and the reviews are stellar, I may get one. I like the interchangeability, but it seems that the single battery only comes with the 6 gallon, while the dual-battery comes with the larger vacuums. The AC motor is sold separately. Never mind, a reread of the ToolGuyd article shows that the components will be sold separately starting in March and into the summer. I could see buying a complete vacuum with the dual-battery motor and then one or two different sized tanks and the AC head. There may even be jobs where having multiple same-sized tanks would be worth the $79-$99 cost apiece. Milwaukee continues to innovate and offers very strong competition for DeWalt. I think the latter's struggle to keep up may be due to its parent company, which seems almost schizophrenic at times. SBD pushes DeWalt as its pro brand, but meanwhile releases DeWalt-compatible Mac tools and pushes Craftsman (and to a much lesser extent Porter Cable) as being semi-pro, to the extent where some Craftsman V20 tools look very similar to their DeWalt counterparts.

Storage unit burglary/theft, or something legal, like trailer repo? I can't imagine a grinder being used for car repo. Grinders aside, if you are using your grinder to aid in the theft of other people's property I hope the wheel breaks just before the police arrive. If you're legit, I apologize for the accusation. I've been the victim of a burglary with multiple repeat trips to relieve me of a lot of my tools and other stuff (I was out of town at the time). When I got home and discovered it, I went to the gun safe, grabbed a shotgun, handguns, and body armor, and waited in the woods in the hope that they'd return. Had they returned, I don't know what I'd have done. I'd have probably simply held them until deputies arrived, but if they had a firearm it would have been game on. A year or so later my storage units were broken into just before Christmas. I went to check on them, found the locks cut, and walked around the facility to find about 1/4 of the units had been broken into, with some units wide open and almost empty. Fortunately, the only thing missing from mine was a couple of BB guns; my mechanic's tools were buried at the back behind a bunch of heavy worthless stuff. Back on topic, I have the older 20v Max version. It works for my needs, but I can see where the FlexVolt would be a much better choice. I may end up with one eventually, as I'm already looking at cutters and welders for my post-retirement shop.

As Biggie stated, all M12 batteries should be compatible. Some of the newer packs like 6.0Ah ones may not fit some old tools, as when M12 was released in the late 2000s they probably didn't imagine that battery technology and capacity would grow so quickly (both DeWalt 20v Max and M18 have some tools that are incompatible with their larger batteries). M12 has been around so long that it's difficult to find reference to earlier 12v systems, but I found this replacement Ni-Cad battery. If any of those style of tools were still being sold even ten years ago, though, I'd be surprised.