Mycrossover
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Posts posted by Mycrossover
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I assume item #4 has a shoulder that is thicker than the blades you are using. Can you get a spare and just file a little off the shoulder so there is snug fit?
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Not surprising; they bought SawStop.I also watched a video from a channel called bauforum24 that was at the same show. It's in German though but if you watch it through a computer I think you can change the subtitles to English, can't change them through the app for some reason.
I don't wanna post a link in case it's against the forum rules but since the new products have already been shown on YouTube then they're already in the spotlight. Shows a new battery from Bosch and some new cordless tools from Metabo along with the new festool table saw coming with the saw stop technology
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Google " installing aircraft rivets" They are solid rivets that are air hammered from one side while a dolly is held against the back. In things like leather work they use 2 piece rivets that are put together in the same way. They are very flat on both sides but not exactly structural. In both cases the rivet grip range must be matched to the thickness. That is also true of blind "pop" rivets. If you use the shortest one who's grip range covers your thickness, there will not be a lot sticking out the back.
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You can buy a US battery charger or buy a transformer type converter. They take 120 in and put out 230. Some are reversable and can be fed from the other side, being fed 230 and putting out 120. Stepping AC up and down is done all the time. The difference in frequency should make little difference in this application. A ways back met someone from a 230 country with a device he brought with him. He had been sold a transformer intended for Americans traveling abroad, It stepped the voltage down instead of up. I opened it up and reversed the cord and socket connections to the transformer and his 230 device ran perfectly. Your charger draws 1 amp at 230. That means that the smallest transformer should have no problem. It would only draw around 2 amps from the 120 receptacle. We are talking about a transformer rated at alittle over 230 watts.
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Every part of the country must have chains that evenually folded. I remember, Times Square stores, Pergament, Bradlees, Great Eastern Mills, EJ Korvette. Most if Sears'/K Mart's problem can be laid on one person, Eddie Lambert, who has been bleeding the company since he took it over. Even in bankruptcy he is trying to squeeze out a few more bucks, hanging his many creditors out to dry. The biggest victims are the retirees and the remaining 50000 that will be shortly out if work, no matter what he tells the bakruptcy judge. His plan for a 400 store Sears is no more viable than the several thousand branch chain he destroyed.
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I don't know how you were able to use that torpedo in the garage? I bought one and they tell you to leave a door partially open to get some fresh air. I opened the side door a little in my 2 car garage and almost instantly got a CO headache. I opened it more, I opened one overhead door a little. I opened it more. By the time I stopped getting sick from that thing, the garage was too open for the heater to do any good. I returned it.This is what I'm using out in the garage. I was out there most of the day. 25 degrees outside and 70 inside.
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I really doubt it is a thermocouple. They require a mess of electronics to function and would serve no purpose in a heat gun. It is unlikely to be a thermistor, either. What you probably have is a thermal fuse, quite common in heating devices, like heat guns and coffee pots. They are in there in case the device overheats. The temp it pops at should be on the fuse. It is probably in °C. They are generic electronic items available from distributors like Digikey or Mouser but it might be less trouble to get it from Makita, especially if you cannot read the value on the old one. The original may be spot welded but replacements usually come with barrel crimps. Solder would melt. Leave enough of the old leads so you can crimp on the replacement. One size does not fit all. Get the right temp. fuse for your gun.Hello,
Could anyone let me know what kind of thermocouple is in the heat gun by Makita HG651C?
Thanks in advance
Sankalp Patil
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Watch theYoutube video comparing the comfort grip 24 or 25" breaker bars from Snap On, Matco, Mac and HF. All of the others are well North of $100. The HF is well under $20 with the ever present coupon. On an industrial torque tester it worked just as well as the overpriced truck stuff. In some cases you are laying out tons of money for alleged peace of mind. The Pittsburgh Pro impact sockets are functionally as good as any and very inexpensive. If you can't be bothered, that's fine but there are some very good deals if you take the trouble.I feel like I avoid Harbor Freight like the plague. In all seriousness I have never been to one before. I don't know how good or bad Harbor Freights are. Sure I like saving money but If I need something I generally research my options then make a buying decision. Because I pick quality and notable/better known brands over price, Harbor Freight has not been considered. Could I find good products at Harbor Freight? sure but I do not want to take the chance.
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There are many brands that some importer slaps a name on with no product support. They intend for them to be throw aways. If it is just the battery, places like Batteries Plus can rebuild a pack for you. I am guessing it is NiCd powered. If the charger is shot you are probably out of luck. It is a sad state of affairs but even some more expensive imports only have a short replacement warranty with no parts and service support.
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That is clearly a misprint. It should say TAPE. They want you to tie and and insulate those two wires together. I prefer a wire nut to tape. To clarify what is going on, draw the 120 and 240 wiring diagrams on paper. Now add a coil between terminals 1 & 2 and another between 3&4. Those are the two windings inside the motor, that the numbered wires go to. On 120 the two windings are in parallel so there is 120 across both of them. On 240 the windings are in series, so there is still 120 on each winding.
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You don't sound too comfortable ripping into the tool but unless the gear housing is cracked the most likely problem is a stripped gear, which should not be that expensive. It may well involve pressing a bearing or two. If it were mine, sheer curiosity would have the gear case apart but that may not work for you. I replaced a stripped gear set on a Makita rt. angle drill, some time ago. Still going strong.
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More like 3.6 x 5. Virtually all rechargable batteries read higher than their nominal voltage, fresh off the charger. A fully charged car battery reads 13.8. They all rapidly drop to their nominal voltage with least bit of use. The lithium cells in power tools are 18650's. Look on ebay, Amazon, Battery Junction or almost anywhere and you will see the cells for sale and advertised as 3.6 volts. This is where we get DeWalt, using 4.2 and Milwaukee using 3.6 coming up with 20 and 18 volts. Back to your question. Lithiums have what is known as a flat discharge curve .It starts at 4.2 and almost immediately drops to a little over 3.6 and very gradually drops a little lower over the whole discharge cycle until it is amost fully discharged and then the voltage drops like a stone. The decrease in voltage is so slight over most of the discharge cycle, that unless you are way over or under at the start or the end it is very difficult to tell what percentage is left, over most of the discharge cycle. Temperature also alters the voltage.Is the voltage a good indicator of battery life?
I tested one fully charged 3Ah battery and it showed 19.5V.
Another fully charged 5Ah battery showed 19.9V.
I don't have a new one to test but I think the "normal" voltage should stay at 4.2 * 5 = 21V. Right?
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First, if you are talking about the older 18 volt NiCd batteries and 20 volt lithium batteries, they are both 18 volts. They got cute and rated the lithium batteries at the peak value coming fresh off the charger. Run it a few seconds and you are down to 18 volts. Even the NiCd's are over 18 volts, fresh off the charger. This has been discussed to death. Some companies call their lithiums 18 (Milwaukee) and some call them 20 (DeWalt). They can squeeze a lot more capacity (run time) and higher current available by putting cells in parallel with lithium cells. That was never done with NiCds. Brushless motors use power more efficiently and have no brushes to wear out but but torque is torque. Compare torque specs to detirmine which drill is more powerful. For a light user brushless will not show a big advsntage. It is the new sales fad. It is like synthetic motor oil in a lightly used car that gets regular oil changesThere are also new 4 pole brushed motors that are great performers. If the drill is your #1 device, I would look at Makita. They have the best Japanese keyless chuck, as opposed to the Chinese stuff used by others. I don't know anything about their combo kits.
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Fine Woodworking just did a review of 11 popular random orbit sanders The Festool RO 125 REQ came in as Best Overall, but at $510, that is no surprise. What was a surprise was Best Value went to Craftsman at Sears 320.39592. It performed almost as well as the Festool for only $55. I have concerns about buying from a company that may be gone tomorrow but if you consider it like an HF throw away, it might be a good deal. I am not sure but I think 320.xxxx is Chervon (China), the new owner of Skil that has been making some well reviewed stuff.
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Did you check Dremel custoner service or e replacement parts?
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It goes beyond stink. They develop a white chalky oxidation that many mistake for mold. I have a bunch of old Xcelite drivers in a tool box and periodically I have to wash them off. The white powder and the stink are gone for a while. I have wondered whether a clear coat would prevent recurrence but never got an answer. The name of the plastic is cellulose acetate butyrate or CAB for short.
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Another consideration is quality control or the lack of it. One guy's great buy may have been a failure for others. Read the reviews or comnents here or watch videos and you will quickly find out about the high failure rate. On some items you have to pick through the stock to get a good one. Early failure is not uncommon in electrical tools. The warranty on most things at HF is 90 days. Their hydraulic stuff is not too good, either. They sell extended warranties on some stuff but then it is often not still a bargain. A lot of their stuff is poorly designed and Youtube is full of fixes for HF stuff to make it work. For me, it took 2 kitchen scales to get a good one. The tractor lift had a bad bottle jack . When I walked in the door the sales lady said "bad bottle jack?" Forget about replacement parts for most things. 90 day refund or exchange and then you eat it. I have had good luck with the alkaline batteries and buy them on sale. The cheap free screw drivers have lasted quite well. It is a very mixed bag. My impact wrench has lasted for years and the 44" tool cabinet set is a good deal if you can get an undented one. Mine had a ding in it beneath undamaged packaging.
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Something you might want to do is pull up the illustrated parts breakdowns to see if the motors or any closely related parts are the same part number. They can usually be found online. See if they even show different parts lists for type 1 and type 10. If the bundled tool has some economies or one supersedes the other, there may only be one parts list. I doubt if the small change in wattage would be noticable but I can relate to your curiosity
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All yellow American and cheddar type cheese is dyed. It is naturally white. Annato food coloring (I think that is #5) is even used in butter in the winter when cows are eating hay instead of grass.
Yea just different dyes, kraft has yellow #5 and the off brand has nuclear yellow
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Japanese steel. While the technology in power tools has increased in recent years, it is nothing approaching what is going on in a computer. Pulse width speed control can be found in a 10 year old treadmill. There are US companies that can make control boards but most of the components will be inported. Even US chip manufacturers have plants all over the World, often in smaller countries like El Salvador
I’m entirely against brand “loyalty” although I’m fine to acknowledge one brand did “win” me over to be my primary platform...for now. Same time a realist has to acknowledge any platform can have the lead over any given segment of the market. Like I would estimate Makita as being the industry leader in impact drivers, Milwaukee in impact wrenches, and Dewalt certainly seems to excel in drills. That could change in a heartbeat though and tomorrow I’ll say something else if that’s what the evidence shows.
Within these limits you could let your priorities dictate which line you pick up if you only want one battery platform. But at the same time if you’re just getting a few generic tools you can also go for whatever color you like and it’s not like it would really be the “wrong” decision. Milwaukee and Dewalt make some awfully good impact drivers. Dewalt and Makita have some really good impact wrenches. Milwaukee and Makita have some pretty solid drills. Skip them all and go for Bosch, Festool, Hilti, whatever. And sometimes whichever company has the best product at any given time has more to do with who has the most recent release than anything anyway.
Thing to me from my experience across all my hobbies, no matter how much you may like a given brand one year, five years down the road someone buys them out, or they restructure, whatever, and they go down the tubes...will you have wasted a bunch of money continuing to buy them “just cuz” or are you going to be smart and hop on board the company that rises up in its place? I make it a point to be the latter guy anywhere I can.
The issue of “made in America [with global materials]” seems to have drawn some attention in this thread. I’m fine with a global economy, but even if “Made in America” mattered to me, I can’t help but be REALLY cynical about the “with global materials” qualifier. Because I don’t see Dewalt or anyone else deriving any benefit or heck perhaps even having any ability to source a lot of the parts that go into modern tools domestically. Does anyone really think you’re going to get superior LEDs manufactured in the states? Circuit boards with pulse-width modulating controllers? Or would doing such just leave you with a shoddier tool that ALSO cost more to make? Anyone in the states qualified to supervise the manufacture of such things with any level of competency are already getting paid too much at Intel or Microsoft to waste their time with that sort of thing. Not researching it myself but hard to me to not think all the difficult work is done in China and most of the “made in America” thing is $13/hr kids working part-time doing final assembly. Better ways to help America’s economy out IMO. Maybe some of the steel bits and such could be done here. Still hard to beat American steel.
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I have a couple of the cheapos that have 2 sizes of phillips in one end and 2 sizes of flat blade in the other end of the hollow shank, that is removable. One end of the shank is 1/4 hex and the other is 5/16. So I have 4 screw drivers and 2 nut drivers. They are only a few bucks in the big box stores or HF. I would not be without one in the kitchen drawer. I make no claims to high quality but they have lasted for years and saved me many trips to the garage or basement, where my "real" tools live.
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He said he just replaced them. NiCds are not lithium but thay are not that bad, either. I have gotten a lot of service from them. I refer you to Battery University on the subject if NiCd memory. It was a problem that was solved very early in NiCd production but people keep repeating it. What causes NiCds to have less and less capacity is over charging, leaving them on the charger for weeks. Recharging a partially discharged NiCd does it no harm. Leving them didcharged is not good but if a Lithium gets low enough it is fatal.
Are they nicad batteries? If so...memory on the batteries you will have to replace them.
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Torx is less likely to slip. You don't have to bear down as much as phillips which easily strip if too tight. You can get torx drivers, keys or bits. They are cheap and have been around forever. Not having a common tool is not a reason to ding them for using a better fastener. It is not like it is torx plus or security torx or some tamper resistant head.I like torx too but when u don't have a torx screw driver to get them undone is a bitch
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I let gas sit in my Husqvarna chainsaw over the winter. It refused to start. I got some non ethanol premix with stabilizer, from the dealer but it still would not start. I took the Zama carb off and flushed it with carb cleaner. After re assembly it started on one pull. It ran for a few minutes and went dead as a door nail. I have good spark and the lines are clear. The one thing I did not do the first time was remove the Hi and Lo needle valves. For those of you that have never worked on chain saws and weed whackers, The EPA does not want you messing with the carb on that tiny little engine as you might destroy the planet. Never mind that people throw these tools away because they cannot get them to run right or even start. To keep you out, the needle valves cannot be adjusted with any standard screw or nut driver. They have come up with a whole bunch of odd shapes like 7, 21 and 22 spline, D, double D, Pacman, etc. The dealer will not sell you the tool claiming EPA fines. He probably just wants the work. The joke is you can get a single tool or a set with as many as ten different tips on ebay, Amazon, Ali Express, etc.Almost all are are generic, all are made in China and only the handle shape varies. I eneded up getting the one branded set I found, on the Walmart marketplace. The same guy sells on Amazon. The set is the Performance Tool /Wilmar 6 piece set. It has their nice overmolded red on black handles with a picture of the bit shape printed on th back. I got the 21 spline i needed. It fits. Tomorrow I will pull the carb again and this time I can remove the needle valves and hopefully get it clean enough to keep it running. Amost every one selling these tools says "Only for adjusting to EPA standards". As if you could put an exhaust gas analyzer into a weed whacker. LMFAO !! They get adjusted to idle and run. My Honda powered pressure washer has an idle screw that has a cap glued on the idle screw that has a pointer on it. The engine has two projections next to the screw. After factory adjustment the cap is glued on, limiting adjustment to about a 1/4 turn total, between the stops. The dealer service procedure is to break the needle valve, remove the broken stub and replace it. Then they adjust it and glue on a new limiter cap. I could never get that thing to idle, after a while. That pointer on the screw or the stops on the block are coming off. I don't think replacement carbs come that way.
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Ryobi Gas Pressure Washer won't idle
in Outdoor Power Equipment
Posted
I had a similar problem with a Honda powered pressure washer but it was the commercial GX series motor, not the GC. I have a Husqvarna chain saw that would not start after sitting. It is the damn methanol.It gets in the idle passages and makes a gummy mess. There is nothing for it but to clean out the carb and switch to the little overpriced cans of methanol free gas.
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