Mycrossover
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Posts posted by Mycrossover
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If you are only doing a few, a simple anvil and punch set gets it done. One set for the male and one for the female. Sewing stores have simple tools that often come with the snaps.
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That is an unanswerable question. Tap quality, tap alloy, material being tapped, lube used, technique used all effect tap life. Carbon taps are more brittle than HSS. They also do not hold an edge as long. There are also many thread profiles for different materials and tapping situations.
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I took pity on you and searched. E Replacements has a video on replacing a trigger on a DeWalt hammer drill. Probably pretty close to yours. There is a lot of info out there if you just do a search. Try " DeWalt hammer drill wiring diagram", "Changing the trigger on a DeWalt Hammer drill", etc.
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Didn't you check to see what went where when you took it apart?
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PC/Delta was Norm's sponsor. Not surprising. For years the big PC was the standard for router tables. Now there are a few other choices.Hate on the Porter-Cables if you want but their meat and potatoes tools forever have been routers and sanders. the big differences between today's 690s and those from 20 years ago are a dust sealed switch and more ergonomic knobs. Norm Abrams used one countless times on the New Yankee workshop. Meanwhile the 890s have an extra 1/2 HP and a few other nice features like an easy big adjustment/ micro-adjustment feature and 2 location switch, but can work with the same bases as the 690s. Both the 690s and 890s have multiple numbers 690, 691, 692 which annotate which accessories cone with the router like fixed base, plunge base, D handle and combo kits. Don't think they are tough? walk into a Woodcraft store see what routers they are using for their classes and see how old they are.
if you insist you don't want the P-C though, Makita, DeWALT and Bosch all make nice routers. As for features, If I were going for one router I'd recommend one in the 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 HP range with variable speed, 1/4" and 1/2" collets and get it in a kit with a fixed and plunge bases. A little bit of work on your part and you should be able to hit your price point with a kit like that. If you wanted to add to that later, a trim router in the 1 HP range would be the next addition for roundover, laminate trimming and small work. If I were to get a third, it would probably be a second 1 3/4- 2 1/4 HP or 3 HP (depends on what size bits you want to use most often) specifically to leave mounted in a router table
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I think all recons might not be created equal. It may depend on who is selling it or who reconditioned it and whether it has a minimum warranty. If it works out of the box it is probably going to last. I have only bought a couple of recons and never saw something as bad as those Milwaukees. Where did they come from? Remind me not to buy there.
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Glad you found the part. It is a shame to lose a tool for an unavailable part.Good new ladies and germs, if you're ever in need, the gear is still carried by The Tool Shed in Bristol, IN. I am whistln Dixie as I will soon be home slabbn some new grease in her to make her purr.
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I think virtually all rotary tools, corded or cordless, use the same 3/4-12 thread on the nose piece as the Dremel and they all accept a 1/8" collet so it is no surprise that other brands accept Dremel accessories.
Do the other brands have a 3/16 collet available or accept Dremel collets? Some rotary bits are in that smaller size.
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No picture or make or model number? Don't expect any replies.Hi,
Just found one of these in our new house. The old pics don't show a chuck but I can't seem to get the bits to stay in. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for your time.
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Almost every rechargable battery is higher than the nominal value at full charge. When was the last time you heard anybody refer to a car battery as 13.8 volts. NiCds and NiMH batteries are labeled by their nominal value, 1.2 volts per cell, but they, too are higher off the charger. It was not to distinguish between types but somebody got the bright idea to make their batteries look higher voltage than the competition and some, Like Bosch switched to the higher value to not lose sales to them. I am sure there are a few who are still taken in by the higher voltage claim. Milwaukee is in the middle with their lower voltage cells at 12 instead of 10.8 but the higher voltage ones are 18. It is all advertising and I wish they would settle on a standard.The fact that people are still complaining about the 20v being “false advertising” is borderline absurd, it is everywhere these days. IMO, this falls into the same category as whining that a 2x4 only measures 1.5”x3”, or truck manufacturers claiming towing capacities of “up to 12,500 lbs” only applying to regular cab 2wd trucks with the lowest gear ratios, rather than how 95% of the trucks sold are configured.
It was necessary to call it something different both to promote the new line as well as prevent consumers from buying something that was incompatible with what they already had and being angry about that.
To the OP, if the batteries are the same style (20v and 18v) with the slide in packs, they are interchangeable with chargers, etc. If they are the older style stem that plugs in, they are not compatible without the conversion kit.
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I tried PB Blaster into the pivot and when I worked them a little black stuff came out with the lube. Not too bad but a long way from falling open like my old ones, which do not have any slop in spite of being so free.
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Just arrived. They look brand new BUT the pivot is very stiff. I have the previous model and the handles on that one are maybe a 1/ 4" longer. They switched from a smooth to a textured grip and the design of the pivot area has changed. Maybe these were up for sale because they are a bit stiff. I shot the pivot full of Superlube and it helped a little. I like my old ones better but I really can't say I was screwed.Any suggestions on loosening them up? I exercised them quite a bit and there was some initial improvement but they will not fall open like my old ones
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Regular taps are not the best choice for cleaning up dirty or damaged thread. There are chaser taps and dies for that. The thread is already messed up and you don't want to lose any more metal. The chasers straighten and reshape thread and carry out dirt in the flutes. They are virtually all made by Lang, formerly Kastar, regardless of what name they are sold under. A regular tap/ die tends to cut away anything that is out of place. Look at the metal chips after using one to fix a damaged thread.
All things being equal, HHS is better than carbon steel but that is not always the case. There is a lot of HSS coming from China that is garbage and not as good as a carbon from Hanson, also sold under a bunch of other brand names. That is not just my opinion. A big seller on ebay of Chinese tap and die sets and machine tools told me that US carbon is better quality than the HSS in the big Chinese sets
Somebody said the handles are the weak spot of cheap kits. Not so. The cheap handles are easily replaced. The low quality taps and dies are what you are stuck with.
I must be missing something about those Gearwrench ratcheting handles. You are supposed to turn the tap a couple of turns and back up to break the chip. With a ratchet, don't you have to reverse it to back up? That seems like more work, not less.
Pilot drill charts are generally sized to give you a 75% thread. That is good for some materials but should be less for others.
Most sets only come with a plug tap that has 3 to 5 starter threads. A complete set has a taper with 5 to 7 for easier starting in hard materials and a bottoming tap with 2 to 3, for cutting thread to almost the bottom of a blind hole.
A lot of taps I see for sale have a spiral flute for pushing chips out in front of the tap, instead of trying to carry them up the flutes. That is great for through holes but for blind holes, not so much.
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It's out for delivery. He sent it Fed Ex. How about that. I'll know shortly if it is as nice as the pictures.
Yeah, there's really not something the same that I know of... I do really like the assembly pliers from Knipex and I think you would also but if you can get what you know you want there's no sense trying something else that might not fit into your usage.
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Dont use it to tighten the pump mounting bolts, that are a 3/4-16 locking thread on an old Ajax/Walker J139 floor jack. Ask me how I know. You can strip some threads before you even stop it.
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I didn't like anything I saw, new. Even the current Snap On is quite a bit different. I just bought a pair of SnapOn 96BCP pliers on ebay. They look mint in the pictures. They are on the way. I have my fingers crossed. I will report back when they arrive.
Knipex makes different pliers for different applications. They make a general needle nose without cutter but those are meant for what you're supposed to use needle nose pliers for, holding something small or pulling something small. If you want something for what would be abuse for needle nose pliers, you want their "assembly pliers" they're about 8" shorter jaws with better leverage for better grip. I use mine a lot, in fact, I own two pairs. They also have a duckbill version that has a wider tip.
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-28-21-200-half-round/dp/B003EA05NA
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I just got something new on my news feed.
https://www.core77.com/posts/78958/The-Everyday-Blade-A-Tiny-Flip-Out-Knife-That-Takes-Standard-X-Acto-Blades
It doesn't exist yet but the inventer has raised a lot of cash on Kickstarter. It is a really nice little folding knife that uses X-Acto blades. Watch the short video. They show it with the popular #11 blade, that I use for all kinds of stuff. I'd buy one at the right price.
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Right you are. I missed the lowest common denominator.. My bad. Back to grammar school.A 20/40/60 could work if you had 30 cells but realistically that is not an option currently because the battery would be massive. I imagine a battery the equivalent of 2 flexvolts in size on an impact driver.
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On Garage Journal, also on tap a talk there is a HF pass/fail thread. It has been going for years and there are thousands of posts. The problem with HF is poor quality control. One guy's great find might not work out for the guy who takes his recommendation. Better QC costs money. They would rather refund or exchange the bad ones. Forget about most spare parts. I buy there but after 90 days it is a throw away if I can't fix it. Some stuff is not too bad if you find a work around for some bad design problems. I am having fun with a band file I just bought there but I always expect to see smoke every time I use it. LOL.
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I just re read your post. Of course the inside of the threaded end piece is less than 22 mm. That is the inner diameter of the thread.All you need to do is figure out which pitch 22 mm die matches the end piece and thread the pipe. Do you have a thread gauge or a tap or a bolt to see what fits the end piece? You must have access to a tap and die set if you were planning to make this clamp.
I am not exactly sure what you are asking. A 22 mm pipe geta 22mm die. There are three common pitches in that size, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0. The pitch will be detirmined by the thread on your clamp end unless you are working from scratch and can select it. It sounds like you might be talking about the minor diameter, the diameter at the bottom of the threads or what will snugly pass through the die. For M22 x 1.0 it is 20.917. For M22 x 1.5 it is 20.367. For 22x 2.0 it is 19.835. This info. is easily found online off any metruc thread dimension chart. I hope this helps.
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The reason there is no 20/40/60 is because the numbers don't work. In a 20/40 the cells are in parallel pairs for 20 and all in series for 40. In a 20/60 the cells are in parallel groups of three and all in series for 60. All cells are always in use for the same watt/hrs. More voltage or more current. For a 20/ 60 that also does 40 some of the cells could not be used for 40 whether there is just one cell or two or three in parallel at 20. It is possible with 6 cells in parallel groups at 20, sets of 3 at 40 and sets of 2 at 60 but that would be an insanely expensive, huge, very heavy battery.Hi all, newbie here. After much deliberation a couple years ago, I got rid of my gas trimmer and leaf blower. I wanted to be done with the
hassle them. So decided to go with the "best" and got the DeWalt 40 volt Max versions of trimmer and blower. Overall I've been very
happy with them and especially impressed with the power and life using my trimmer. Now I'm thinking of adding a spare battery to the
two I have but having difficulty finding the 40 volt versions. Seems they've gone to just the 20volt and the 20 / 60 flex battery.
The couple I've found available want a premium of nearly $200. I paid not much more for the entire tool, battery, charger in the first place.
Are they discontinuing these and if so that really BURNS me. Their stuff is not cheap and I was confident with this brand I would be making
a very good choice for near and long term. If they are doing this, they are killing maybe thousands of good working tools that are all over
the country. They could at least have made the 20/60 a battery that would include the 40 volt step and have a 20/40/60 option.
Anyone dealing with this and know of what if anything can be done to replace my 40 volt batteries at a reasonable price?
Thanks!
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Thanks, you have answered my question. If DeWalt has a brushless die grinder then high speed brushless has arrived. I just had not seen one before and did not know.
That's a good point. I've never considered RPM limitations for brushless.
The highest I'm aware of is the Dewalt 20V brushless die grinder and brushless multitool that both do 20,000+ rpm.
I've chosen and bought the Bosch rotary tool. Great tool. I'll have to try and get a bigger battery. I only have a 1.3ah.
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Those things come in a few different blade sizes and Olfa has 3 different blade materials, plain steel, one with a black coating and stainless for wet situations. The stainless blades seemed to hold an edge better than the plain steel, for any purpose. I like them too. You have to be careful breaking off the end for a new blade as they can break wrong and ruin the next blade.How about one of these. I use this more than my utility.
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I am not exactly sure what you are asking. A 22 mm pipe geta 22mm die. There are three common pitches in that size, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0. The pitch will be detirmined by the thread on your clamp end unless you are working from scratch and can select it. It sounds like you might be talking about the minor diameter, the diameter at the bottom of the threads or what will snugly pass through the die. For M22 x 1.0 it is 20.917. For M22 x 1.5 it is 20.367. For 22x 2.0 it is 19.835. This info. is easily found online off any metruc thread dimension chart. I hope this helps.
Hi
I am putting together a gluing clamp that takes a 22mm steel tube.
It requires a threaded end to be held at one end which has a smaller diameter than 22mm (the diameter in the thread hole is about 20mm)
What size die am I supposed to use to make this thread?
Thank you for your help.
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Metal snips: Stanley FatMax, or Lenox? Opinions please.
in Hand Tools
Posted
Wiss is Apex these days, with a corresponding drop in quality. Malco or Midwest is the way to go if you want a good tool.
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