Mycrossover
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Posts posted by Mycrossover
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Nobody has mentioned who currently owns Skil. Bosch sold it to a Chinese company called Chervon. They claim to be a Worldwide major manufacturer of power tools so they must make a lot more than Skil. I had never heard of them before they bought Skil.Skillsaw is doing a big product redesign now that they were spun off Skill. Bosch kinda bastardized Skill into a bargain brand with a few premium tools. SBD kinda did the same thing with Porter Cable they still have some Pro grade tools but now its more of a budget brand in general. Looks like a nice portable table saw though.
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Porter cable is the stepchild in the SB&D lineup. It is higher than B&D and lower than DeWalt. With the new Craftsman power tools aiming at the same market segment, it will only get worse. When PC was a separate company, many years ago, they were up there with Milwaukee. They were bought By Rockwell who added a lot of Skil quality junk to the line but kept the good stuff. The next owner was Pentair, who dropped the junk and returned them to their former glory. Then B&D bought them and under them and later SB&D it has been a downhill slide. They have too many brands and it looks like PC is the odd man out.
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I believe there are riveter attachments for electric drills, too. I don't know how convenient or durable they are but if you can power it with a powerful drill from a system you have already bought into, it should save money.
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Like other companies, SnapOn may just license their name to companies making accessories and low end stuff or maybe just has it made for them. Costco is an outlet for stuff like SnapOn gloves and flashlights. None of it is made by Snap On just like some of the stuff in the truck line. They can make a few bucks and apparantly not damage their reputation. I bought a wireless phone battery that said GE. In fine print it said that the xyz company had a license from GE to import these Chinese phone batteries and sell it under their name. Clothing designers often have many licensees using their logo for everything from belts to toilet paper.
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Let us not forget the B&D Versapak, first in NiCd and then in NiMH for longer run time They were 3.6 volt and used single or in pairs for 7.2 volts. It was definitely a system including power screw drivers, Dustbuster hand vacuums, Scumbuster bathroom scrubbers, drills and probably more. The chargers were just trickle chargers guarrantying a reduced battery life from overcharging."Why isn't this in the DeWalt section" you ask? Because despite DeWalt supporting a few stagnant and arguably dying/already dead systems (12v XRP, 14.4v XRP, 18v XRP, and some will definitely argue 12v Max and perhaps 8v Max), the brand itself is going strong with 20v Max and Flexvolt continuing to grow. Instead, this thread is a commemoration of sorts for those cordless systems that are no longer with us. Feel free to bring up the good, the bad, and the ugly about those nearly forgotten (perhaps for the better) tools that some of you made a living with in years past.
I traded in cordless tools for pneumatic tools pretty quickly, and then traded those in for an M249 Squad Automatic Weapon and later an M4 carbine. Regardless, I remember two systems, one used professionally and one used around the house: the Black & Decker UniVolt and the B&D 14.4v NiCad.
The UniVolt was used when I was a kid of 17, working for my girlfriend's uncle fabricating and installing FlipClean gutters (we made the hinges out of custom aluminum stock with lots of fun toys like a bandsaw, lathe, drill press, and tumbler). We had both B&D and DeWalt drills and batteries in at least 7.2v, 8.4v, and 9.6v, and everything was cross-compatible if memory serves me right. In fact, I still have my old drill with two batteries and charger in the metal case and have been meaning to grab it since there isn't a whole lot of info online. For heavier work we had a 12v hammer drill, but the UniVolt covered most of what we needed. A charger was always plugged in and plenty of fresh batteries were kept on-hand; it became standard practice for us to carry an extra since they liked to die at the most inopportune times, like when you were at the top of a ladder, with the gutter at the perfect pitch. Good thing I usually prepped the gutters and downspouts on the ground and left the others hang them.
The B&D 14.4v may have never been a system. I don't know, it may have only powered a handful of standard drills with no other tools being released. I picked up a neat retro drill, the RD1440K, for cheap and it met my needs well enough that I left a somewhat glowing review on Amazon seven years ago: https://www.amazon.com/Decker-RD1440K-Anniversary-Cordless-Driver/dp/B00006FX9U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
If I had to do it again, however, the review wouldn't be quite so good. Hindsight is always 20/20 and while NiCad was the best thing going when I purchased the drill, by the time I left the review some manufacturers were releasing lithium-ion batteries for their tools. Looking back, each time I had to use it the battery would be dead. After confirming that the nice silver battery that came with the drill was dead, I picked up three more batteries on clearance at Walmart, found the charger had died and made another trip out to buy the multi-voltage charger. As I was starting to learn a little more about tool systems, I made a point of charging those batteries every few months until...I stopped. Honestly, I don't even know where the drill is. I'm pretty certain it's in storage and the batteries are probably dead. With its unique look, it will be a wall hanger like the UniVolt.
As stated above, my experience with cordless tools has been brief until recently. I look at what I currently own and wish I had such tools doing gutter work, framing houses (I was the cut man, and a cordless saw would have been nice), or repairing vehicles and equipment. That said, I know that some obsolete or almost gone systems made a lot of money for some of you in the past. My disabled brother probably looks back fondly to his days using DeWalt 18v XRP to earn a living doing a variety of work. He finally got a 20v Max drill/impact combo earlier this year, so I gave him an 18v adapter, a couple of 1.5Ah batteries (OCD? I only want XR batteries, kind of like how I only want Fuel and not regular M18 tools), and some other goodies like a ToughSystem radio. To think, one day we'll all probably be thinking of 20v Max and M18 in this same light.
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315.xxx is the prefix code for Ryobi as the vendor of this saw to Sears. I would just get a heavy duty replacement plug at the big box store. I have used them many times with no problem. If yoyu are ambitious, replace the cord but make sure the original does not use some molded strain relief at the saw, that you cannot match, reuse, or work around.
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Absolutely. Many lifts were designed to use this router. As far a single speed, I suggest that you get a router speed control rated to handle the current of this router. In the day it was the gold standard for router table service. Make sure the table is beefy enough to carry the weight without warping.I am contemplating putting this in a router table, preferably with a lift.
Is this a good idea? I have seen mixed feelings about plunge routers in router tables. I have even used one in a lift but there was no lifting mechanism so everything had to be adjusted from the router itself.
Also are there even any compatible router tables, preferably with a lift, it will fit?
That Rockler pro table seems nice and accepts lifts. Might be an option if a compatible lift will fit?
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Read the clear instructions and look at the pictures in your owners manual. If you have lost it you can download it. Just google the model number. I found it inmediately
Hello, Recently I bought the RYOBI Drill Press DP103L. I was wondering if anyone owns this press and could help me on changing the belt on the pullies to get different RPM's. The manual does a very poor job on how to do this step.
Thank you for your help!
Cheers!
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I have the HF 44 set in the garage and I am very satisfied. The new model is even a little deeper. It does not move around so I cannot coment on how it would do if it did. As far as old Craftsman, if that includes the red and gray, I have a 26 set in the basement along with a similar Dayton branded Waterloo and I think the HF is a much better box. I have had the HF quite a while, old sand finish, and the others since they were new, in the 70's. I am not familiar with the other boxes you are looking at but I suspect any of them would do the job.The Milwaukee, Dewalt and Husky boxes are decent for the garage but not for everyday use. Especially getting moved around a big shop. I have the Milwaukee box and in under a year the drawer slides got all gritty sounding and slide like crap. The original one was not very deep compared to commercial boxes. The scope of my work changed, now it just sits unused. I would not purchase it again. A friend of mine was pulling his new husky box across the shop and the welds broke on the handle, pulling it right off.
the Dewalt box is in the same class.
Boxes like Mac, snap on, Matco are a lot more money for a reason, they are built 10x better. Some of the older craftsman boxes were built really well. No idea on harbor freight.
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Are you talking about the white stuff, like Lubriplate? I am no lube expert but have never seen that stuff in a gear case. You can look up what you have and see what it was intended for. If it were my tool I would stick yo a grar case lube, though I would not hesitate to cross brands.Hello everyone,
I apologize in advance as this is a pretty stupid question, but I am still young and dumb. I normally use Bosch of Makita (that's what the nearest shops carry)grease for power tools maintenance(rotary hammers, angle grinders and percussion drills in my case). Some time ago I was given a tin of lithium grease. Can I use it as a substitute for the Bosch/Makita grease? What do you use?
I am more than open to suggestions. Thank you for your help and time.
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If you are sure there is no screw and it is held with Loctite, try a big hex bit in an impact wrench. That has never failed me. Much better than a hex key and a hammer. It is hard to believe that they are depending on Loctite to handle drilling in reverse. That kind of construction would be enough to write off that drill. In the past I remember Milwaukee using a taper mounted chuck. A taper is bi directional.The older ones did have a screw in there, my 791 and 996 I purchased in 2018 do not. Display models on store shelves do. The 996 is made in the USA, the 791 is made in Mexico. I haven’t had to take the chucks off yet, but I’m hoping the chuck retaining screw was just replaced with loctite or some other sealant, rather than dimpling/peening the drill arbor to hold the chuck on. That would effectively make the tool disposable for a bad chuck, but might explain the wobble with quality chucks.
It would seem Dewalt should have issued a service bulletin to their repair centers with the updated design, they should know better than anyone. Might be worth a phone call.
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On 8/22/2018 at 3:29 AM, cliu said:
Other than cost, is there any other reason to get a 2.25 HP rather than a 3.25 HP?
A 3 hp router is HEAVY and clumsy for hand held work and is best used in a table. A slightly undersized router can get by in a table by taking multiple passes if you are using a big bit. It depends on what you want to do, whether you will often even use a bit requiring that much power. The Bosch kit is a great compromise, with plenty of power, known good quality and a fixed base you can install in the table and a plunge base you can use for hand held work. The Triton plunge routers allow for the plunge spring to be removed and table top adjustment, when used as a table router.
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1 hour ago, SetBuilder said:
A drill has a standard chuck, a 1/4 impact driver has a hex quick disconnect
There are impact drivers and drills with hex chucks. I have one of each from Bosch. The drill has a multiposition clutch and no impact function, like any drill driver. There are many on the market. They are virtually all 12 volt so the OP is not likely to find an 18 volt.
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The best technology doesn't always win. Betamax was a better vcr format than VHS but suffered from a slightly shorter run time so the purveyers of VHS played on that. The commercial tape machines used Betamax. My Plasma is going strong. The blacks were better and LCD pixels could never be as fast to replace data, in spite of all kinds of work arounds. The new OLED TVs use the technology from smart phone screens and have very good blacks. Plasmas were heavy and expensive to make. If they can get similar performance out of a 4 pole motor I suspect you will see less brushless. Cheap and simple beats complex and expensive when performance is similar.
I used to think the same about LCD TV's. They did not have as good a picture as plasmas, had poor blacks etc etc.
Somehow the manufacturers convinced the masses they were better and they started outselling plasmas. Eventually plasmas stopped being made because there wasn't enough of a market to make them economically. But if my kid hadn't turned it into a paper weight, I'd still be running my late model 64" plasma.
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I just looked up the DeWalt factory parts breakdown diagram for that drill and there is a screw shown next to the chuck. I am lead to believe that if there is no screw it is because it is missing.
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I hope you were turning those torx bits clockwise for the left hand screw. It is hard to believe it would not come out. When hammering on on a hex key fails, I chuck a hex bit in an impact wrench, AFTER removing the left hand screw. That has bever failed. It should be mentioned thst the left hand screw is only there to prevent the chuck from unscrewing when the drill is used in reverse. A missing screw might never be noticed if the drill is only used in the forward direction.Well after breaking 4 x T20 tools bits trying to get that bolt holding chuck to shaft loose I decided to cut the chuck off with a cutting disk and luckily for me it worked and after numerous tries I am now able to replace this chuck with a new one
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The Worx grinder is on sale for $152 US on Ali Express. I don't know how reliable they are to deal with. I got a lot of hits from Worx.AU. Maybe they still sell it down under. It might pay to contact Worx and find out what the deal is on that tool.Hi
Please help Im in the UK and have a few Works 20v power tools. I cannot source their 20v angle grinder anywhere in the UK to use with my existing batteries and I think they must have stopped making them. I wondered if anyone else knows of any other manufacturers whose grinder my work with my Worx batteries?
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Go over to Garage Journal. The HF pass/fail thread posts are in the thousands. There is another thread, Worst thing you ever bought at HF. That one is filling up pretty fast, too. The bottom line is some stuff is OK, some is junk and the quality control is terrible. On some items you are OK if you manage to get a good one. Some stuff works with some modification. The tool cabinets are well regarded. I bought the 44" set a while back and have no regrets. The Earthquake impact stuff is usually OK. Their new higher end tools are too close to the name brand stuff to bother. Warranty is basically an exchange. Forget about replacement parts. It is a very mixed bag. Against my better judgement I bought an electric band file (hand belt sander). Amazingly, it still works.
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There is a rt angle Dremel attachment. If you really want a small hand piece on a quality tool, buy a Foredom. It is a motor that usually hangs from a bracket and has a cable that takes several hand pieces, including rt. angle. There are several models and they are expensive, not a toy. They have been around forever. Jewelers use them.
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The obvious question is, have you contacted Wright directly? That is the likely place to start.
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The new CEO comes from JC Penny and is really shaking the tree. Major changes in upper management. It will be interesting to see what happens. I don't know how much of their focus is on tools. Most of the store is other stuff.Well, the CEO recently announced his departure, and if his replacement is good this thread could prove premature. I've said it before but Lowe's, despite being the smaller chain, has small town markets locked down here in Georgia and the Southeast. While HD tends to stick to larger cities and mid-sized ones near interstates, Lowe's has a presence in well-known and decently populated places like Statesboro (Allman Brothers' song "Statesboro Blues", Waycross ("Miller's Cave", a song by Hank Snow and also recorded by Bobby Bare), and Vidalia (think onions). [emoji3]
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It is volts and amp HOURS. Multiply the amp hours by the volts and you get watt hours. It is that simple.fwiw, here's my findings on current shipping of lithium-ion batteries.
i am visiting as a tourist to NY from europe in august and was looking to get a M18 milwaukee chainsaw.
alas it's battery is actually a whopping 216 wH - something that is not explictly labelled, infact all makers give you volts and amps but all air transport regulations is based on watt hours and the upper limit for normal courier air transport is 160 watt hours and on carry on as a passenger it's 100, meaning that this battery would have to travel back to europe as dangerous goods/ hazard materials which is subject to special cargo and special packaging and certified statements/declaration and handling, only possible by very few specialist companies.
short story: 750 USD to get that battery back across atlantic to europe.
so i cannot get a milwaukee and they dont (yet) sell the saw without the battery in usa.
yes, its available in europe, but it's 250 USD more expensive.
so i cannot get that saw. it turns out i could get makita batteries for their 18volt 5 aH battery and as a passenger travel with 2 of them in cabin luggage from USA.
So check your TSA and IATA regulations if you're thinking of flying with batteries and don't risk violating guidelines as they will detect you and are entitled to heavily fine you.
and in case you're wondering, turns out makita saws are equal priced between usa and europe for consumers, infact in many cases less expensive in europe, but in usa they do gift packs of free batteries for some unknown reason.
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For smaller stuff I have had good luck with the Alden Grabit set. I have seen what looks identical under other brand names so I am not sure who actually makes them. It is just the opposite of the slow pitch ones we hate. It is like a conical tap that bites into a shallow dimple you drill. Many have the left hand bit on the opposite end of the tool. I can't believe how tightly it grabs on that very shallow hole. After removing screws it was an effort to get the extractor off the screw. They are hex and can be chucked in any reversable drill. They are also warranteed for life. I sent one back because the drill end was shot and they sent me another one.
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Check at a place like West Marine. The salt water guys have real rust and corrosion problems.
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Any thoughts on the new SBD Craftsman lineup?
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