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paulengr

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  1. Then you can also braze or weld to attach. Or with two similar sizes (say attaching to socket) you could use.a wide shaft collar and set screws.
  2. A. B. Chance. Part of Hubbell or Cooper now. That’s a wrench for line workers. Probably can get replacements from a lineman store. Around here that’s J Harlen.
  3. SBD sells Stanley as a “budget” brand and Dewalt as “premium”. Husky is also “budget”. First can you return broken ones for replacement? You can even return Harbor Freight tools. If not, skip it. I know you can return Husky and Dewalt. Not sure on Stanley. I’ll add more. First don’t ignore Harbor Freight or Northern. HF used to be Chinese junk. It’s fairly respectable now. Northern is “rich rednecks”. So just not HF, Lowe’s carries Craftsman which is another Stanley/Dewalt brand positioned midway between them. Husky is partly made by SBD, too. Let’s not forget Neiko and Tekton which are essentially Amazon house brands. I’d say they are midrange too. No issues with them either. You can save money on “sets” but they often give you a lot of poor quality tools in a set so skip these. Sorry that’s just how it is. Plus you get that stupid giant blow molded box that takes up tons of space and is utter garbage. Second here is the problem. You can never have enough tools. You will always run into some strange fastener or special situation. Start small with say just a good 3/8” socket set, an adjustable wrench, some screw drivers. Then as you get comfortable and need more, get more. Set a monthly budget. Put a running list on your phone. As you run into situations add things to your list. Then you can shop around and get a little at a time. You save money buying quality and getting just what you need, not a bunch of crappy tools and oddball bits you never use. Buy six point sockets. 12 points are easier to get on but on bad/stripped nuts six point sockets grip better. This separates a lot of cheap tools from cheap but good quality. Next we have the laser/painted/etched vs stamped question on the labels. If you can get it go with stamped but this is rare. ALL other options no matter what they say come right off if the socket runs on something. They talk up their laser etched stuff but none of my high end socket labels that are not stamped are visible after six months.’Finally impact vs nonimpact. Nonimpact sockets are thinner and get in tight spaces better. Impact sockets are almost indestructible. If you ever intend on getting an impact wrench just buy the impact sockets and adapters now. They will be black oxide, ugly as sin, and tough as nails. So very good for what they are meant for. In terms of ratchets this is the money spot. Shop around. Try them out. Look at the size of the head (thinner is better but raises price). Swivels can be nice but may make it harder to use. Extending handles are nice. There are dual head 3/8 & 1/4” heads. Handy. I have one. It does bulk it up though. Also get at least one breaker bar, longer is better. Get it I the biggest size sockets you use. You can always adapter down. Get an extension assortment. Ratcheting is nice...basically makes it a ratchet. Everything is interchangeable so maybe buy them all separate. Usually the ratchets that come in sets are crap. Sorry that’s just how it is. In wrenches you want combination wrenches unless you have some special needs. It’s more expensive but get ratcheting box ends now and thank me later. You will be glad you did. One of the interesting sets if you want to explore is Klein and Harbor Freight make double box end wrenches where just 4-5 have most sizes. Gearwrench is an American (Apex Tool Group) brand, mostly American made. While you are at it Crescent is a sister company/brand and makes great adjustable wrenches and pliers. Between the above three you can easily stay under $150 and have good quality stuff. Buy socket strips at HD and buy a tool box. On the wrenches I love a wrench roll. The Dickies brand one is really nice. I have both sizes but I only use the large. It holds all my wrenches SAE and metric with room to spare. In terms of tool boxes/bags I do electrical work so I have the electrician open top 12x12 bag. Fully loaded it’s almost uncomfortable to carry. Those giant 24” mechanics bags are insane. I have one strictly for my 1” to 2” wrenches. The sockets all fit in two Dewalt medium Toughsystem boxes. One for 1/4 and 3/8, one for 1/2” with impact wrenches in each plus a lot of adapters, Tory bits, hex bits, etc. Electrical service work requires an insane amount of tools, more than mechanics. We just don’t need as many really large tools. In screwdrivers they sell these huge sets but the reality is you need one 1/4” or 3/8” “beater” (Milwaukee or Dewalt impact is better), one 1/4” flat blade decent length, a good length #2 Phillips, maybe stubbies but a small specialty one is better, and a set of “precision” screwdrivers. Hardened tips can’t be beat so this is where Wiha, Milwaukee, Dewalt are all you need to look at. Harbor Freight has some good ones too. Get one of those Allen (hex) sets too. There are excellent and American made ones. Then there are regular, needle nose and maybe lineman’s pliers and diagonals. Again Crescent is a good name and reasonably priced without going German.
  4. Sounds like the switch if that’s where it came from. All motors even brushless will eventually fail, too. In drills it’s not worth the cost to replace. Especially when you are limping along on old NiMH batteries.
  5. Get a flat disc style sandpaper attachment. Then attach to that. If it’s plastic epoxy will work. If it’s metal need something more substantial. Also depending on what you are doing go with an impact or drill/driver instead and epoxy your thing to an appropriate diameter socket.
  6. Keyless chucks wear out. Replace. Most of the Dewalt ones are made by Rohm. Their web site lists chucks by brand because they make them for everybody. I’m kind of partial to Jacobs but on power tools Rohm is the way to go. Changing is simple. The big trick is breaking the chuck loose off the shaft. There are several YouTube videos showing you how to use an Allen wrench and a vise.
  7. paulengr

    Milwaukee SURGE

    Well it’s going to put out less peak (nut busting) torque compared to an impact and it’s physically bulkier. The big plus is quiet but body shop work generally leans towards work that should require ear plugs anyway (hammers, grinders, impacts, needle guns, metal saws), especially where removing bolts is concerned so my thinking is no. I’d see more use in having a variety of impacts like a little stubby one, a mid size (around 250 ft-lbs) and the monster 1400 ft-lb bust or break tool. Use torque sticks on the mid size to save time tightening bolts instead of a torque wrench.
  8. You can’t just guess. It might be printed on the name plate. If you don’t have the information it takes a lot of experimentation to find out. It is cheaper to just buy another motor. Plus many motors have two capacitors or one with both inside. What you have for information is just the start. Small single phase motors are ridiculously complicated things compared to three phase ones.
  9. Hard to say about any of it. To begin with ALL electric trimmers are marginal at best. Landscapers use them because of noise rules but they are terrible. Everywhere else they use gas trimmers for a reason. And brush trimmer heads don’t work on “feather light” gas engines but what you have is evff Ed n lower torque than the lightest gas trimmer. It does what it does...makes a thin string go fast for LIGHT duty jobs. It’s not a chainsaw. Any of them, even Stihl. I’m not a landscaper but I grew up on a farm and my current lawn is 3 acres so the light duty stuff for 1/2 acre lawns is useless. I learned long ago the brush cutter heads are marginally better. The biggest advantage is you don’t have to constantly replace string when brush cutting. The best thing to do is get better string. Either get the stuff with a triangular shape or get the stuff with the titanium steel reinforced core. Both do fantastically better than the round plastic string and the titanium string beats the brush cutter blades. Plus these are both compatible with the standard head. As to your ideas... The torque out of a brushless DC motor is related to the voltage at the motor leads. So if it’s the same motor you can get more out by raising the voltage. Or with the same voltage use more wire in the motor (more turns) but this requires more available current and thus bigger wire. Higher voltage keeps turns and wire size down but demands more insulation so has a similar effect on the motor. This is why for instance Dewalt created the Flexvolt batteries but Milwaukee stuck with the 18 V platform but just made larger (more current) batteries to achieve the same performance. You just can’t predict these things. So the 40 V version might help, or might not. It’s an expensive experiment. I guess you can always return it. As to why the 40-60 V range the answer is Ego. They set out specifically to make battery powered landscaping tools. The competitors were awful at the time. Ego uses a 56 V battery but the thing is HUGE compared to even the biggest from anyone else with big contacts. I mean the batteries alone are bigger than most Ryobi tools. They were the first ones that did not suck. So suddenly everybody else had to step up their game. To date I think only Stihl matches them. So they upped both voltage and current (output). Unless Ryobi has a ten pound battery they just aren’t going to match that. If the resistance in the battery itself limits output current, voltage will drop and torque is affected. This is where higher output batteries will help. But if the limitation is the controller or the motor itself all you get is a higher capacity...the internal resistance is less but the battery is not the limitation, Usually high output is useful where low speed torque is an issue like with a drill in steel or an impact gun. If there is a big difference on a fully charged battery compared to “1 bar”, high output will matter but otherwise it probably won’t. Again...you can’t predict these things. I have HO 6 Ah and regular 5 Ah Milwaukee batteries. I’m a contractor. I can’t tell the difference other than the HOs last longer. Plus there is a big difference in terms of engines. Horsepower equals torque times speed. In a gas engine which is what the attachments are for horsepower is a curve. You don’t hit full horsepower and torque until around 2000 RPM and it goes up from there. Thus you HAVE to have a gearbox. Cars would be a lot simpler and lighter and faster without it. In a DC motor horsepower is essentially a constant. You get maximum torque at zero RPM (stall). If you increase speed, torque MUST decrease. So with a trimmer when it works best at top speed only the gas engine is best. Electric is always going to be a compromise at best. It’s great for things like drills where it can slow down and still work but not with trimmers.
  10. That’s why the youtubers are a little better. At some point unlike Protool and Toolguyd you have to actually show the tool being used. None of them are contractors. That’s the issue...they have never used and often never touched a tool. As far as metal sawzall was invented for electrical demo. Good for that. I did panel cut outs for years with a grinder. The backside will be u mess but it looks decent from the front. A saber saw does much cleaner IF you have room for it. A circular saw is even better if you have room. On conduit and strut cuts saber saws bust blades very easy. Grinder or bandsaw or circular works good. Bandsaw is best but it’s sort of a non-multitasker which is why I’m not a fan. It’s just one more tool. I hate bandsaws. Talk about horrible ergonomics no matter the brand or design. I’ve tried electric shears and a hand punch. Shears are OK on flat sheet metal ONLY. Otherwise they suck. Have the Milwaukee 5.5” circular now. Cuts fast and cuts most everything, Good tool but I’ve heard the gearboxes wear out. Kind of becoming a go to over the grinder, saber, and bandsaw. My next tool I want to try is a nibbler. I really think it will be the ultimate cutout tool for sheet metal except it doesn’t do really straight cuts and has limited thickness. I wouldn’t go under 10 gauge for electrical. “Max” 14 gauge when so many panels are 14 or 16 gauge is a big concern. So that puts me into the $1000 roofer nibblers.
  11. Ridgid is an oddity. It is not a house brand of Home Depot unlike Ryobi. You can buy Ridgid branded pipe wrenches almost anywhere for instance. But they make/market a lot of stuff that is exclusive to Home Depot which makes it look like a house brand. It is a professional grade value brand or a higher priced homeowner brand, but Ridgid Tool is definitely independent. Take a look at the RE-6 crimper/cutter for instance, definitely not an HD product. Which brings up a point. They seem to position their power tools at the low end...decent quality at good prices. But then they have a lot of professional grade tools with few if any equivalents. The closest thing to that RE-6 which comes complete at $2500-3000 is the Greenlee ECCX Pros at around $4500 but then you have to buy another $1000 of accessories to make it equivalent. Then buy dies for both.
  12. So with all that the DWS779 looks close to your price range and does everything albeit at 12”. If you want to get under $300 other than sales that puts you into either a house brand like a Ryobi which is intended for DIY or a Chinese brand, at 10”. A 12” sliding compound miter is a big saw that will do anything. You’re already looking at a $300 price tag. I’d go all the way if you only buy one once a decade. You can probably rent/loan it out for free beer to recoup the costs!
  13. Get a stand. Weight really doesn’t matter because even without a stand it is always sitting somewhere. You need the weight for the accuracy and so the frame doesn’t twist from torque. Cast steel or iron is the cheapest lightest way to do that. “Weight” as in portability is secondary. All cutoff saws are awkward space eaters. But on the truck/van is where it matters. In a garage you can always pack other things around it if you break it down. If all you do is straight cuts all the sliding, compound bevel stuff is meaningless. So a 7.5” does everything up to about 2x6. As soon as you bevel in either vertical or horizontal though the height and width of the cut face go up dramatically. That’s when bigger blades and sliders are a must. On a 10” compound dual bevel without a slider 4” crown molding is pushing the limits and 6” is not possible unless you can do it vertical or on some crazy jig angle. On a slider it’s easy. Even steep angles on say deck boards on a 10” are pushing it. BUT sliders are worse than dual bevel are worse than single for accuracy. Every moving part, bearing, etc., needs some looseness to move and each one cocks the blade out of tolerance that much more. So do longer slides. So if all you do is straight 99 degree cuts avoid all that stuff. Simpler is better. It’s great for cribbing and rigging and form work where wood is sacrificial anyway or where you have two saws set up. But in DIY it limits your capabilities. You don’t need multiple saws and the cheap price is a trap. So since you have just one primary saw it needs to do everything. I’d go for a slider but portability isn’t there so I’d be looking for a corded 10” slider. The 7.5” seems like a huge compromise even with a slider.
  14. What type of work puts that much shock load on the gearboxes? Or do you do that much cutting to where it wears them out?
  15. How did you break them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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