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About paulengr

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  1. Sounds like cell reversal. No recovery from that. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  2. I have the better grade Dewalt corded 11 A version and the Milwaukee fuel cordless. Hands down the little and much lighter Dewalt runs rings around the Milwaukee. If I did it again and I could only buy one, I’d get the corded. But take for instance yesterday where I needed to grind off some rusted bolts and do some sheet metal modifications on a starter I was rebuilding. No idea where the nearest receptacle is and didn’t care. I did everything with the Milwaukee. Now if I had to grind out welds all shift or do a big 1/2” plate bevel or strip paint, it’s the Dewalt all the way. So it depends on what you need to do. If the cord is convenient or it’s a big job, I grab the corded. Otherwise I slap the battery in and go to town. We’ve got some Dewalt 20V Max too. The Milwaukee fuel version does a lot better. It doesn’t stall out nearly as easy. But it’s hard to stall the corded Dewalt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. New batteries often act like they have a charge when they don't. That's why the instructions usually say to charge them for several hours (overnight) before the first use. It might look "full" but it's not. And if the battery is super low charge you run the risk of cell reversal with full charging current. This is where for some reason one of the cells (1.4 V each) suddenly and permanently reverses poparity. The safest way to charge truly dead batteries is trickle charging. Maybe if it sees under a certain voltage the charger goes straight to trickle mode which would be a steady light. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  4. To start every line will have a drill/driver and a circular saw. Look beyond those because at $50-100 per battery you don't want to own too many different batteries, although there is nothing wrong with lots of batteries. Do you see yourself doing lots of carpentry? Finish or rough? Plumbing? Electrical? Some lines don't have great support for certain things. Like a PEX expander/crimper if you foresee doing lots of plumbing in awkward spaces where running copper might not be the best plan. Or doing lots of concrete and brick drilling. Or turning wrenches on a lot of large (1"+) bolts. Or having a good demolition saw (aka Sawzall). Or good lighting. Each of the professional lines has its strong suits. For instance as mentioned Festool has some awesome wood working tools but Dewalt does too and is considerably more common. For what you've said so far you can't go wrong with Dewalt or Makita but Dewalt will be lower cost. I would never consider Milwaukee M12 as your main tool line. What it's goid for is light weight "every day" tools. So if you need a drill/driver, fine. Even a mini demolition saw that's not so mini. It has a circular saw that will go to town on 2x4 and 2x6 but not a common 4x4 where even a corded saw does that. They have the shortest compact impact wrench. It has a band saw but the throat limits you to under 1". Fine for water lines but not DWV. Decent lighting options but short battery life. Eventually you need a good larger circular saw, demolition saw, drill/driver that can do concrete and that's where M12 falls down. This is why M12 is a good secondary tool line. Starting out though I'm not sure this would not be a bad first choice if you have access to larger tools or maybe some older stuff. Going the other way if you buy into a large set with 3-5 tools now in saw Dewalt 20 V line then later down the road buy the small light Milwaukee M12 drill you won't take such a big hit to the pocket the moment you find yourself having to buy a bigger or more specialized tool and getting stuck buying batteries too. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  5. Pretty much any high nickel filler is the trick. Use lots of passes depending on thickness and grind out any defects. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. It's easy to beat tool truck markups. Can't do it with Matco but for instance Williams is Snap on without the Snap on logo. Proto/Blackhawk and Facom are MAC minus the logo. These are industrial brands typically sold through large industrial distributors and some automotive distributors. I have a 1/2" Blackhawk impact socket set from 30 years ago. They are much thinner and tighter tolerances than the HF set that I have. Back then I lived in the boonies several states away where the local automotive supply was the tool store in town other than K-Mart, no Wal-Mart at that time. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  7. paulengr


    I think we have a couple tools in a closet at work but no batteries or charger so they're basically junk. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  8. As far as digital it holds its calibration better but still just a click type. The most accurate torque wrenches are the bending beam types but they’re awkward to use. Another good alternative though by far for automotive is a torque stick. You just use them like an extension on a medium torque impact wrench and stop when the socket stops turning. This is what most auto techs use on lug nuts. All digital and click type mechanical torque wrenches should be calibrated about every 1000 uses. We have both cheap and expensive ones in our assembly shop and the price doesn’t make much difference. Beyond that head on over to boltscience.com and start reading. Also IAEA magazine. What you will quickly find out that’s sort of obvious is essentially measuring torque is the wrong thing and not an accurate measurement of fastener tightness but it’s one way to get more consistent results, along with thread lubricant like Never-Seez and making sure that the bolt fills the hole as tightly as possible, no more 1/4-20s in a 1/2” hole. And to just toss any and all helical spring washers aka split washers aka although completely incorrectly “lock” washers and avoid them completely in the future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. T-stak system is cheaper than toughsystem. The boxes (LxW) are smaller. The seals aren't quite as substantial. And if you have the mounts for it Toughsystem can be more like a drawer system where T-Stak is a stack so to get to the bottom box you have to move the others. But I didn't spend $300+ on the dolly. I just have the bottom box/dolly which is under $100 so personally I stack say a drill, impact wrench and sockets, maybe a parts organizer, a tote bin, and put my general use tool bag in the bin along with job related materials and wheel the whole thing to the job site. The bottom box has multiple bags of items like wire nuts, cable ties, a very full splice and termination bag (I do high voltage work), rubber lineman gloves, pry bars, files, extension cord, and charger. It's like having half my truck with me saving about 4 trips. The bottom box is also a bench seat and if you put a couple boxes back on top, a work bench. As far as the seals go Toughsystem looks at home with an excavation contractor where T-Stak looks like it's meant for inside guys...both keep your tools dry and latches and hinges probably break just as easy but Toughsystem is going to be a little more abuse tolerant. I did consider the Milwaukee Packout when I jumped into Toughsystem. But there were three problems with it. First it was very expensive and not competitive at all when it came out. That has changed. Second it was rare even online. I even thought twice about Toughsystem for that reason alone. HD only had it in clearance aisles in Raleigh. But even Toughsystem is somewhat rare and the HDs in Raleigh don't carry it now. Instead they are overloaded with the crappy house brand version and T-Stak. As usual Lowe's is pathetic with only T-Stak and only recently in Craftsman badging and neither Toughsystem nor Packout. That should tell you what SBD themselves thinks of T-Stak...its so it can color coordinate tool boxes when it sits in the garage and holds tools that never get worn. A few Northerns now carry about half of the Packout stuff in their bigger stores. Third the bumpers on Packout make the boxes very small inside relatively speaking. What I like is the bags connect too (no tote solution needed) and they have half size boxes although the compartments in them look very limited. Packout has potential where SBD has largely dropped the ball on new stuff for Toughsystem and allowed the marketing to slip to the point that it's a mail order thing at best now at least across most of the Carolinas and Virginia, on a system that I think still kicks you know what when it comes right down to it on all of them. So I might have to shell out for Packout if SBD continues to try to kill it off. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  10. I haven’t seen much difference. Brushes don’t like dirt but brushless electronics have problems too. You make it sound like you’ll be working on shovels in Fort Mac. Those are all Torits which isn’t that bad. But basically with most dust collectors you use an impact to remove a bunch of sheet metal screws then take a knife and cut and pull all the bags out. Once those are gone it’s actually a fairly clean job putting new ones back in. So the impact doesn’t see much. That’s odd. At least in the States in pretty much any mine you can usually get in the door as a laborer in a contract crew doing say cleaning crews. But once you learn your way around, opportunities to move up come up all the time. Even heavily unionized places like West Virginia are very easy to move up in if you show the desire and capability. All I’m suggesting is look at the platform. At $100+ for most lithium ion batteries the tools often go for less than that as bare tools. So all of your investment is in batteries. So what you don’t want to have is a few brand A, a few brand B, etc. Look at the platform first then get the tool within that platform. M12 is kind of designed as light duty secondary tools for professional use so you can’t get the heavy duty tools compared to the M18 platform. Weight isn’t really an issue. Think of for instance the 2 Ah Dewalt batteries that are no heavier than the M12s. Haven’t seen problems with Ridgid except you get more vibration off the tools. They’re just rougher ergonomics wise. And the platform is very, very small. But the price is very good. I have to supply everything up to 2” sockets. You can get up to 2” impacts in a 1/2” drive. We have some 3/4” in the crew but we just use the 1/2” to 3/4” bushing style adapters. Milwaukee has the 1400 ft-lb impact in both 1/2 and 3/4 versions, both hog ring and pin detent. We haven’t had problems breaking 1/2” sockets. We routinely work on 250-10,000 HP motors and the base bolts often need that kind of torque. We have Dewalt 20V, Porter Cable, and Milwaukee M12 and M18 in our crew. I upgraded to M18 when I started on this crew moving away from my old Hitachi stuff. There are a couple old M28s in the tool crib but we don’t have batteries anymore. Two of the guys used a tool trade in deal to switch to M18. The great specs and weight on the torque wrenches are a great selling point but the biggest one for me is M18 also runs a vacuum, drill, grinder, sawzall, band saw, stand and clip lights, saber saw, and cold saw. Dewalt 20V is close to that same long list of tools. Dewalt 12 V is kind of a joke (maybe Atomic revives it?). M12 has a lot of depth too but for instance they only have the mini sawzall and a bandsaw that realistically can’t get over about 1”. No grinder or cold saw and the vacuum is a ridiculous dust buster kind of thing. But on the other hand some of the lights are actually nicer and there are some unique items like the boroscope. So when evaluating the platform if all I did was electrician work or maybe say automotive mechanic, M12 might not do all that bad. But since we also do mechanical work and a lot of really big electrical work, M12 just doesn’t cover that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Not sure about Canada but all tools are pretty good dust wise but brushless should theoretically hold up better. Mining is tough on everything. But consider this. Mid torque (150-250 ft-lbs) is about what you can realistically do by hand. As in throwing your full weight on an 18" wrench at say 150 lbs. gets you to 225 ft-lbs. You will find practically you can still do things with hand wrenches the impact won't touch without using techniques like double wrenching or a 24" breaker bar but you're pushing limits here. At 200+ ft-lbs you will tend to shear off bolts and nuts that are under 3/8". This is where it's nice to have a smaller impact driver (eliminates carrying a drill too) or impact only. I carry one with my 3/8 and 1/4 sockets separate from 1/2". This is for run of the mill fasteners. Then when you step up to 3/4" sockets when you're at typically 1-1/4" or larger nut you need to up the torque. Also it's mining...there are plenty of situations where corrosion is a serious problem. At that point you can go old school with breaker bars, cheaters (pipe), slugging wrenches, large size long handle ratchets, or the modern approach is to step up to high torque at 400+ ft-lbs. This is where you should think about step up options. At 1400 ft-lbs of breaking torque and a price of around $250 Milwaukee is hands down the wrench of choice. Nobody else has anything close right now. And it saves you $100 if you can buy the bare tool and not invest in another set of batteries and charger. And it's still 1/2" so you can use it with your 1/2" sockets until you have to step up to 3/4 or 1" just due to availability. So I'd look at the options on the battery platform. This eliminates the Ridgid outright. Might make sense to keep the Dewalt investment until it dies but if you're going to all new, Milwaukee makes the most sense. In terms of grinders and other tools you will quickly accumulate Dewalt and Milwaukee serve you well but again Richie is just too limited. So when picking a battery platform look at the overall picture, not just the tool you need now but others you will need as well. This kind of usually cuts it down to Makita (especially for linemen), Dewalt, or Milwaukee for mechanics, plumbers, and electricians. Carpenters have a lot more options. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  12. Basics like impact sockets are OK. It's positioning. At one time Craftsman was a premium brand at a midrange price. Sears converted it into a cheap house brand. SBD has several brands (Stanley, Black and Decker, Craftsman, Dewalt, Porter Cable, etc., etc.). They've always kind of positioned things like a good/better/best with Dewalt as premium. People seem to want the old Craftsman discount premium line but the problem with this is that it cannabalizes Dewalt sales if you can buy the Dewalt in red instead of yellow. And they paid good money for the name so by definition it has to be marketed as a midrange brand. That being said why buy Craftsman if you can afford Dewalt and you're on your tools every day. If you're a homeowner though and you want something better than HF grade at a reasonable step up price that's the sweet spot for Craftsman. It's not intended to capture pros unless they're hard up for money to spend on tools or buying something one time use. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  13. SBD has been innovating, except they put all their effort into the Craftsman line. Granted it's mostly rebranding like making T-staks in red instead of yellow. Hopefully they will get back to business as usual once the majority of the launch is over. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  14. What vibration? That's where the Surge idea kind of fails. The vibration of an impact is very little on current designs unless you're running all day then even with the Surge use impact gloves. Second sure it's quieter but quieter than what saw/hammer on the job site? Ear plugs aren't just for impacts. It's an interesting concept and that's why it's a good item to sell but so far we've passed on it in favor of torque per dollar or whatever you want to call it in my crew. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  15. Your assumption of fixed resistance is off because you have to factor in series resistance which if all cells are the same internal resistance, 60 V means 33% more series resistance so the current decreases by that amount, leaving you with roughly similar performance. Then there's the issue of voltage drop proportional to square of current so you can quickly see why something as simple as P=VI is not simple at all. Hence Milwaukee for instance has stayed with 18 V batteries where Dewalt goes up to 56 on a FlexVolt but hasn't so far had a vastly superior advantage, never mind say Kobalt 24 V. Then we can really confuse things when you realize brushless commutation means the rotors are DC with an AC rectifier feeding them and often synchronous so the fields are actually AC. A DC to AC converter as well as DC to DC can easily increase or decrease the voltage in the process so motor voltage is independent of battery voltage and hence the higher voltages play off losses in the wiring (IxIxR) against increased battery series resistance. Hence no easy relationships where voltage is definitive. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
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