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paulengr

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  1. I think he means a drill/driver. Dewalt, Metabo, and Makita target the builder market. Hands down if you are working in wood they are the go tos for tools. Usually the top tool ends up Dewalt or sometimes Makita. In some tools like a corded grinder Dewalt beats out Milwaukee. But as an overall tool line Milwaukee is more of specialists tools. They have a lot more tools specifically for plumbers, electricians, and mechanics. Most of my wood working tools are Dewalt or Metabo but those stay at home. No space on the van for all of it. I load them only when needed. The M12 stubby impact will work on a lag bolt but it’s meant for automotive mechanics. It’s light but I don’t see much point on a builder site when I would be drilling almost as much as shooting screws and tightening nuts and bolts, and cramped space is usually not a factor like working under the hood. The 1400 foot pound impact will probably tighten a lag bolt too without snapping it off and stripping out sheet metal screws instantly if you turn it way down but we use it for fasteners over 3/4”. And the M18 Fuel drill/driver is slower than the Dewalt on high speed for driving screws but if you’re not careful in metal on low speed in drilling metal and it grabs it can easily bruise or break your wrist just like the old D handle drills. When Milwaukee made the M18 comment they already had experience with the M28 line that they’ve all but abandoned. This was when we had the Kobalt 24 V stuff, Dewalt sells “20V” and came out with Flexvolt. We have seen this before when we moved from 12 V NiCd to 14.4 V NiMh then to 18 V Li Ion. This was Milwaukee saying there was no technical advantage to higher voltages on a brushless Li ion platform right when Dewalt was claiming the advantages of 60 V tools over 18/20 V. So they avoided doing yet another battery line. At some point way beyond drills and impacts you run into limitations in higher currents and higher voltages just make sense. That’s why large trucks have 24 V battery systems and power companies use thousands of volts on power lines. The MX line is something really new. It isn’t impact guns. It’s kind of an area where Hilti has a few products but right now most of those types of tools are either corded, hosed, or gas engines. If it works out for them in 10 years it will be like drill/drivers today where the market is dominated by cordless. But the big thing is most of those tools are rented and time will tell whether the rental companies are willing to invest or not, or can get a premium on renting them. It looks like Milwaukee is making products that can do things the others can’t. Like a light plant that fits on a dolly instead of a tow behind or a core drill you can safely use on a ladder instead of putting up scaffolding. These are different products, not “me toos”. This opens up new markets so it’s not just a substitute. My prediction is like any truly new product demand will be slow at first then either fizzles out or takes off. In today’s instant gratification works though Milwaukee staff need a lot of patience. They need to market to a different crowd and they have to realize that if I’m say a tool rental company I’m taking a big risk on a new product that may have little interest in the higher rental fee, and on whether Milwaukee will fold up shop and skip town in a year if they don’t like how things go. When SBD comes out with the Dewalt light plant or buys up Hilti, we will know it’s successful. Right now they are too busy putting out red rebranded Chinese tools.
  2. In corded I’d agree but Dewalt has at least 3 models. There is the cheap underpowered one, the good 4/5” one, and the monster 8” one for concrete work. I keep the midrange one on the truck when I need to do a lot of grinding where cordless is impractical. In terms of cordless however their angle grinder is underpowered and eats batteries and they don’t have a big (12 Ah) solution. This is an area where even though ergonomics is better Milwaukee does a lot better. S as t least for metal working which is what grinders are meant for.
  3. Service tech. Plenty of cab space. Service area includes Lejeune, Bragg, and on Monday I’ve got work to do on part of the water system for Seymour Johnson. Was thinking of the typical tractor trailer size roughly $100-200 range. They sound great but when I looked at one of the Igloo models in Walmart for instance it was obviously only useful for say keeping medication cold.
  4. You can do it. We have solar farms in NC (second only to California in solar) that are hundreds of acres. But realistically it’s not usually worth the money to do more than trickle charging to maintain. But for instance at a local mine we put up portable wi fi hot spots which were a couple car batteries, a solar panel, an inverter, and the radio. Trouble is the wind are up the solar panels with blown sand and dirt (scratched them up) in a year.
  5. Glasses are only a problem for pilots and where you can’t use them. But the image on the retina (optic nerve) is larger depending on how close the lense is. Think of it like the resolution on a computer. Everything might be in focus but you can’t make out details as the resolution gets lower. Second problem is scratches, dirt, and fogging up. I could just never keep a pair of glasses in good condition doing maintenance work for more than a few months at most. And most industrial mechanics toss safety glasses a lot more often than that. So contact lenses are much better than glasses even with all the trouble. You still end up with at least safety glasses in some plants but that’s it.
  6. paulengr

    Framing gun

    I’m confused. Cordless “framing” nail gun? The market is 99% pneumatic for a reason. A few finish nails sure but for framing you’d never use an electric gun. Way too slow and charge limited. Maybe BC to frame out an electrical panel or minor plumbing rough in for stubs but it’s not really a framing nailer. That’s like showing up to a crane job with a come along on an A frame and a crew of HD day laborers that don’t speak English instead of a crane and certified riggers. Sure it might get it done but it’s not the right tool for the job.
  7. Thinking about an iceless cooler in the work truck. Been carrying a cooler for years. I used to do the ice thing but it’s a constant hassle. With a good thick “Yeti” style cooler (I have the Walmart version) ice lasts a day or two in summer but I noticed that it insulates so well that even ice free water stays roughly “average” temperature which means slightly cooler in the daytime and drinking “lukecool” water isn’t too bad. So I’m already using the space in the cab and thinking a cooler that would hold maybe a half case of water and a sandwich or two would be really nice. My service area is 3-4 hours so I typically have a 2 hour ride on average both ways so plenty of time to chill down on the road. Any experience with these things? Igloo advertises heavy but I was not impressed with what I saw in a local store. Truck stop units look tempting but hey it’s a truck stop...could be good, could be a waste of money. Anyone have any experience good or bad?
  8. Almost me too. Chuck is locking up and basically worn out. Ordered a new chuck, Rohm same as Dewalt, Makita, etc., but in goofy Milwaukee 9/16-18 thread. Hopefully this one will outlast because the one thing that sucks about it is the chuck. Will be changing it tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Uhh no no no! First off I have lots of pool experience. Head over to the Trouble Free Pool forum as far as chemicals. The worst thing you can do is trust the idiots at the pool store when it comes to chemicals. Don’t believe me? Try this. Take a bucket of water. In fact take two to two different pool stores preferably from someone else’s pool. Do each one on a different day or at least morning band afternoon. Have them run both samples. If you are lucky one store might give you the same results but usually not. Ok and the chemicals? Totally overpriced. I have paid $20 for what amounts to a box of $0.99 Arm and Hammer grocery store baking soda. Or muriatic acid for roughly 1000% markup over the auto store price. Bleach is cheaper even if you buy the liquid bottles at Walmart! Expect to pay hundreds of dollars per season in the pool store. And if you are truly feeling like donating to pool store profits here’s an easy method. They have a product that goes by several names but the key chemical is biguanide. It works sort of, for a little while, at massive profits even by pool store standards. That’s until the water molds start and you can’t kill them after spending hundreds on chemicals. I’m not making this up. There are issues to be sure like making sure the salt (if you run a salt system) does not contain iron remover but other than that I buy a few things from Amazon and the rest locally, just not from the pool store. You can easily buy chlorine at the discount store if that’s your thing or go salt water. Bromine is just an overpriced chlorine alternative that is basically chlorine and biguanide is the biggest scam going. First get educated. Head over to a web site called troublefreepools.com and most important their awesome forum. Second get a Taylor test kit off Amazon. There are lots of moving parts here. TFP tells you what testing stuff you need and which tests work best. Third if you can stand the price get a saltwater system. Why? Super stable, super cheap chemicals, crystal clear water sand the least amount of work. But a titanium chlorine generator cell is not cheap. Ok so quick scenario of a worst case. So I just put in a 14,000 gallon in ground fiberglass pool. Poured down rain for weeks so no concrete yet. I just got the salt in and was circulating water just to get construction stuff out. No testing because no test kit. That stayed with the old house. Wife and daughters decide to have a pool party and spring this on me!! So I go to Lowe’s and buy a tarp to lay over the rebar and a test kit. pH is close but salt is low, not enough stabilizer (cyanuric acid) which just makes the chlorinator work harder, needs more buffering. Worst problem is I’m down around 0.5 ppm chlorine. Pool party in one hour. Even at max output no way I can fix the chlorine. So off to Walmart. 4 jugs of bleach and a box of baking soda. Dropped it all in slowly in the skimmer with some stabilizer and salt the pool contractor had on site. Pool guests arrive, stave them off with food to give it time to circulate (pump cranked up to cleaning speed) and things are looking good 20 minutes later and no issues at all. This is an extreme example. As I’ve said I’ve done my I own work opening, maintaining, and closing pools for years. I know what works and what doesn’t. The pool store doesn’t even know about liquid bleach and would tell you what I did was impossible or dangerous. I’m not saying this is a good way to run a pool just that an average person can easily do it. Only thing I’d say about TFP is they like to run salt water systems at 0.5-1 ppm chlorine. I found it’s just not easy to control down there. 3-5’ppm is much easier to control and I had no algae and crystal clear water. Don’t believe the 10-30 ppm the pool store tells you. It’s wrong but they just use some software program that is designed to sell chemicals at inflated prices. Or if you just want to spend money have the pool store put it in and send someone over once a week to maintain it for you. You trust your money and your health to a 16 year old high school kid on their first time part time job with a boss that’s a hippie straight out of the 60s right? I thought so.
  10. Tool bags on Toughsystem 2.0. It’s almost impossible to hang a tool bag on top of the carrier or cart/box and not have it slide off. Packout has TS and TStak best in this category,
  11. I have had it done. I’m an outlier, a worst case. To begin with I needed glasses at age 4. I could not see the big E by time I was 8. The whole chart until about 10 years ago was basically a blank sheet of paper to me without glasses. As in I could tell there was a white square on the wall but no idea if anything was written on it or not. I was basically 10 diopters if myopia (near sighted) in both eyes plus a couple diopters of astigmatism. As in horrible, horrible eye sight. I gave up on glasses and went first to soft then hard gas permeable contacts because that gave me 20/20 but with all the hassle of contacts. Glasses even though they looked like coke bottles had “fringing” on everything because at my prescription you get different light colors bending different amounts. Very irritating. Never mind the wear and tear on my nose and behind my ears carrying the weight. With contacts you get the dry eyes, the blinking and clearings, the scratchy eyeball feeling at night. The glare, and the fact that dirt or dust was almost impossible to cope with. So flat out the eye surgeon said there is no way I’d get 20/20 Maybe like 20/30-20/40. I had to have PRK. That’s the older but much better method because at my prescription the amount of material needed for LASIK risked structural failure of the eye (over 50%). So on first eye laser at the time took 4.5 minutes. Not the 10-20 seconds most people get. Now to describe it is very surreal. So after prep including Valium to relax you and drawing dots with a Sharpie on my eye for the eye tracker I laid on the table. First they put something on my eye to force the lids open so I could not blink. and they scraped off the outer transparent epithelial (skin) layer off my eye and things got blurry. Lots of cleaning and I think a little drying. Then they turned off all the lights in the room and bright lights on me. This is where I cannot describe how freaky it gets. I was told to stare at the blinking red light and all I could think was HAL 9000. Next the laser voice prompts started. 4 minutes I think 35 seconds if laser time. I felt like I was in a science fiction movie. Then it started and I saw something flashing all over but couldn’t recognize it. In seconds I smelled burning flesh...my flesh! I could feel a pain slowly building. The laser counted down the time. Yes Mister Bond I want you to die! Goldfinger rattling around my head. About halfway through the burning sensation sort of reached a peak where I couldn’t stand it any more but all I could think was what happens if we stop halfway? No turning back now. Good thing for the Valium becAuse I was starting to freak out I wouldn’t make it. Then it stopped. They flipped on the lights and started cold compresses. Relief!! Then they put in a huge soft contact, a “soft bandage”. Finally I look around. Holy cow!!! 20/20 first time in over 30 years!!! My eye felt bruised and emaciated but I could see! So this is where PRK and LASIK differ, So with PRK the next day was about the same. A little sore and my eye was very itchy if you can imagine that because not something I ever felt before but still. So I had an itch I could not scratch and still 20-20 other than the contact lense hassles. Now the next day is what I was warned about but I can’t begin to describe easily. I woke up and yes it felt exactly like somebody threw sand in my eye. I was walking around in circles trying to tear up, trying to think about something else, anything. Closed or open did not matter. I had some Oxycotton prescribed if I needed it but those things are almost worse than just working through it. So after 2-3 hours it got better. Next day same thing but either i was tolerating it more or it was getting better. This part went on for about a week. And here’s the next downer...that 20/20 vision? Gone. In my case forever but I’m getting ahead of myself. So the next day the vision became basically almost as bad as where I started and they took the bandage (contact) out. Over the next month or two it got gradually better but then didn’t get past about 20/40. What was happening was the epithelial layer was growing back and since it doesn’t grow back evenly (grows from the outside in) it takes weeks for this to happen. That’s for most people. But in my case with that much laser work my eye literally warped right in the center of my vision. It’s enough you can easily see it but so small the eye scanner stuff can’t recognize it. If they can measure it they can easily laser fix it but since they can’t measure it I have to wait for the tech to improve. So on eye number two brand new laser. Laser time dropped to 45 seconds. Mostly same story as last time but no warping! Doc I’m cured!! Ok the follow up now 8+ years later is starting about age 45 my vision degraded a LOT. It’s age related and mostly just that my eye won’t adjust as much anymore. Not sure how much a laser can do. I’m kind of torn between the 6 months long recovery and needing my eye sight as an industrial technician more than ever. I’m on my tools every day. So the bad news is my night vision took a nose dive. I use a good LED flash light, take pics with the phone or just zoom the camera to read or see tiny stuff. Bright high contrast light makes a big difference. Milwaukee and Nebo are life savers. If I use a hard contact with no prescription the spot in my eye fills with fluid and once again i get 20/20 but I also get all the hassle of contacts. Thanks, I’ll just suffer with what I have! I can enjoy so many things do much better. I no longer fear dust and dirt. If the wind blows in my face I’m not turning away and running for cover so I don’t dry out. No more constant blinking and rubbing my eyes. It’s not a perfect world but so much better than the one I left. So I don’t think you can relate because you’ve never been there. Go ahead and get checked out. Do try contacts. It makes a huge difference. The image in your retina is much larger with contacts because the lense is closer to your eye (on it) so you get a lot more detail in everything. At least then you know where you can get to. Laser surgery is a lifestyle choice. It isn’t perfect by any means. Things can and do go wrong. In my very extreme case very wrong but I wouldn’t go back even if I could. Keep in mind this is with 20/30-20/40 in one eye and 20/30 in the other with double vision and other issues. But I came from roughly 20/3200 if the Snelling scale went over 400 which it doesn’t. So effectively the surgeon made it possible for a blind man to see s almost as good as the optometrist but without all the hassle. If I could get by with glasses especially since many of my jobs required industrial PPE which means wearing safety glasses anyways, it would be a much tougher choice. But because my vision was so bad and glasses were basically just a backup, it made a major difference for me. LASIK which was not an option for me is different. So with PRK they laser a lense right into the surface of your eye. It is safer and better results and uses less material but the downside is the healing process. With LASIK they cut part of the cornea off (a flap), then laser the lense, then flip the flap back over it so the lense is inside the cornea. They give you a sleeping pill and you go home. The pain I felt kicks in around 8 hours later and you sleep it off (hopefully), waking up to mostly decent vision. Over the next month or so it does funky things but you don’t totally lose it like PRK. So it’s a bit different and recovery time is much faster. There used to be issues with the flap but those are mostly gone since it’s not done by hand now. So if LASIK is an option from what I know go for it. So not sure if I’m selling it or not. As I said i am and was a severe case. But it should give you some idea of how bad it could get.
  12. Power and cordless screw driver are never associated. Klein 5 in 1. Can’t go wrong there. More power than any cordless toy screw driver. Pretty much any major name brand drill/driver has more power and options. A good high torque Dewalt or Milwaukee or Makita is going to set you back about $150. Scratch that. You buy a battery and a charger kit and it comes with a free drill/driver! Budget minded drill/drivers (Craftsman, Rigid, Ryobi, etc.) are around $100 with a battery and charger. Those cordless screwdrivers are so vastly underpowered I can put more torque on the above manual screwdriver. They are intended to separate a Christmas shopper from their money but that’s it. Also the ergonomics are horrendous. You’ve got this huge fat barrel to contain the batteries that only fit properly in the hands of a gorilla. Then your grip is in the traditional screwdriver position so if it was “powerful” you couldn’t hold onto it. Drill/drivers have a pistol style grip off to the side that fit just as well in my twelve year old girls hands in her robotics club as my pro weight lifter team mate at work and greatly increase your ability to hold it. With a drill/driver I can vary the torque for soft materials, increase it and drive wood screws into shed and dried hard wood (if it doesn’t split), drive drill bits for the screws, run but drivers, Allen, and Torx bits, and turn on hammer mode and do all of the above into concrete and masonry. On one charge often all day long. The cordless screwdrivers don’t do pretty much any of that except run screws in drywall and picture frames on soft wood and screw the tiny screw in the battery door of the other kids toys. One possible advantage is this. My Gen 2 Milwaukee drill/driver has enough torque in drill mode to easily bruise or break your wrist if it grabs hard in low speed high torque mode. A cordless screw driver stands a good chance of being broken when I get frustrated with it. Make sure to buy a pink colored one. The light reflects better off them to help see the screw.
  13. The tool itself does not overheat but there is a subtle difference in the Milwaukee 18V battery line. There are actually 3 battery series: the smaller XC series (2-3 Ah), the larger XC (5 Ah and another size or two), and the monster 8 and 12 Ah. It’s not just Ah that is changing though. There are more contacts used and more cells in parallel. You CAN use the cordless full size Super Sawzall with a 2.0 Ah XC battery for about 10 seconds before it overheats or the correct (8 or 12 Ah) battery for a long time with no overheating unless you stall out the tool. I see lots of guys trying to use the high torque impact guns with 2.0 batteries instead of 5.0 size batteries, then complain that the tool sucks when it’s just using the wrong battery. Unfortunately Milwaukee doesn’t help things by color coding or something to make it clear which battery goes with which tool. It was less of a problem when you had brushed tools but as the torque and current draws have gone up the battery limitations are a lot more obvious. If you buy batteries for the Milwaukee 18V line today don’t bother with anything under 5.0 Ah unless you are only going to use them with low torque/demand tools, if you are going to use heavy demand tools at all (Sawzall, circular saws, table saw, grinders for more than about 10 minutes) the 8 and 12 Ah batteries are a must. The lights are really good but if you want any time at all on them 5 Ah is a must. Probably the only big lighting issue is that the rockers only last 8 hours on the lowest light setting but the slot won’t accept a 12 Ah battery. As an example with the grinder on a 2.0 Ah battery using a flapper wheel I get about 5 minutes. If I switch to a cutoff or sanding wheel and load up the tool at all it stalls and overheats in seconds This is a Gen 1 or 2 grinder mind you. With the 5 Ah battery I can go until the battery is dead in about 15 minutes and no issues with overheating even if I repeatedly overload it. It just stalls. Bigger batteries just last longer. Save issues with a super Sawzall on a 5 Ah battery but stepping up to the 8 eliminates the stalling and overheating, Of course the manuals that you read with 15 pages of safety warnings and 1 page of poor instructions on useless things explains all this. Yeah I threw those away too.
  14. At least around me Makita is more expensive and as mentioned since my trade is more electrical and mechanical oriented, Makita is very limited in those areas. So it’s no different than say Porter Cable to me...good drill and impact and maybe a saw. After that not much good. I used Makita back in the NiCd days and I wouldn’t say it is any more professional than any others. I’d agree with the statement that Milwaukee has issues to a point. First issue is their chucks suck. Every manufacturer except Milwaukee uses the same chucks. If you replace it with the popular brand, problem solved. So right up front the most basic and common tool is a piece of crap in terms of a key component but the rest of the line is very reliable. They are pretty well known for the best demolition tools for a reason, Second problem is this. If you under power the tool, you can’t tear it up. So Consumer Reports gives crazy insane rave and highly biased reviews of Toyota pickups but ignores the fact that they have low performance across the board except their ability to suck gas. So sure it’s more reliable because you can’t really do anything with it. I thought the marketing king by far is Dewalt. They are everywhere. I burned up several drills and saws before I figured out they underpowered them but that was also in the cordless years. I love their corded grinders and a lot of their hand tools, and their tool boxes are awesome. But the power tool line itself not so much. But you might also want to check into those dealers. Often tool manufacturers have “trade in” deals. As in they will credit you for your old Makita tools traded in for Milwaukee. It can be a very good deal or just reduce the cost a little, and it’s usually only available through a local dealer so the markup might kill the savings do shop wisely. I’m not out of Makita yet. For instance I have a Greenlee Crimper that uses Makita tools and at 3-5 grand won’t get replaced until it dies.
  15. The truck with all keyed chucks is get the proper fitting chuck key and turn it as tight as you can but eventually they all wear out and have to be replaced which is inexpensive if you do it yourself. The tricky part is always figuring out how to remove the chuck.
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