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paulengr

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  1. paulengr

    Tough System 2.0

    The boxes stay stacked most of the time as long as the feet engage. Only time guy need the side latches is for transport so they don’t fiy. In practice in the back of a pickup as long as they’re loaded with tools they don’t move anyways. Only tube I had one get loose was 45 mph gusts at 70 mph with an empty tote not latched down,
  2. Here’s an example 80,000 lumens 530 W “1000 W metal halide equivalent”. 40 lbs. All passive cooling. https://www.phoenixlighting.com/sites/default/files/products/specification-sheets/n5499723f_highland_series_spec_sheet.pdf Honestly the only real thermal problem with LEDs in general is the problem with pulling the heat off the LED die itself. After that point you just add thermal mass and plenty of cooling fins. Look at the Phoenix fixture. Or look at one of the Milwaukee fixtures in HD up close, what jumps out at you is that very little of the fixture is actually covered in LEDs. The vast majority is heat sink. The only guys not using big heat sinks is Hollophane. https://img.acuitybrands.com/public-assets/catalog/364529/phst.pdf?abl_version=10%2f29%2f2019+06:06:47&DOC_Type=SPEC_SHEET Instead they rely on lots of vents and use passive convection (hot air rises) so their fixtures are very light. I really don’t know anyone doing liquid cooling or even fans. Ok maybe I have. Don’t want to waste left over liquid nitrogen. If you chill a cheap LED the non-high power kind in al the electronics in the 90s then hook it to rectified 120 VAC it will act like a 1000 W metal halide lamp for about 10 seconds before it fries. Just make sure there are plenty of spare LEDs because it’s so much fun you can’t do just one.
  3. EGOs 56 V batteries work good with outdoor power equipment. I’ve used 8D batteries on boats, dozers, fire trucks, generators, you name it. Very reasonable price. I know they weigh 120 lbs but if my scrawny 180 lb butt can lug them from pickup to dock to work boat to dredge, they are plenty portable and don’t cost megabucks for lithium ion.
  4. paulengr

    Dewalt DW718

    If the motor stalls most likely one of three things. If it has brushes they dry out in storage and chip/break and need replaced but that’s more of a DC thing and you sound like it’s corded. In AC motors if it’s stalling it sounds like a failing capacitor. They only last about 10 years. There are up to 2 capacitors. One boosts voltage and offsets the phase angle to a starting winding to get the motor running then cuts out. It sounds like that is working or maybe not cutting out. The second makes it run more efficiently so you get a more power when it is already running which is what I suspect has failed. It can be the motor varnish is shot and the motor is burning out too but you can smell that. If there is a funky battery smell I’d definitely think capacitors. Finally I’d lean strongly towards a bearing seized up and robbing power, 10 years of sitting isn’t good for bearings. Motor capacitors and brushes are cheap (under $20) and even motors aren’t bad but labor isn’t. So if you take it to a tool repair shop which you can easily find in major cities, expect about $100-150. You might find a great deal on a new/refurb while you are there. If you can do it yourself you wouldn’t be posting here. If it’s just a cheap one (under $250 current dollars) might want to just get a new one. If it’s an expensive high accuracy, sliding full bevel, etc., it’s worth repairing.
  5. We have one. It’s slower but you can use it one handed. It’s a lot lighter. The vibration level is much better. And it can get into really tight spots. The only thing I know of smaller is those little pneumatic reciprocating saws but you need to lug around the compressor and air hose and oil to feed them. So unless you are doing demolition all day or trying to go through say 1/8” steel where the extra power and speed count, it beats the bigger one hands down. I think the Milwaukee non-Fuel one compromises a bit too much and then again their super Sawzall trumps everyone in the speed/power category but in the Dewalt line in my mind I think the smaller one is a better choice overall. I would put it up against the “standard” big red as an even match and it beats the mini but not the super.
  6. First in terms of Milwaukee and Dewalt you don’t know what you are talking about. Your response sounds like trolling for Sechzuan Province. I have Milwaukees and my crew also has Dewalt equipment. The Milwaukee rockets for instance have nothing but aluminum on the “head” and an aluminum telescoping pole. The only thing plastic is the base and some trim. Rockets are not light. Neither is the Dewalt one. In fact even their 18/20 V “flashlights” which I would hardly place in that category have a sizable aluminum heat sink.No fans involved. Those eat a ton of power. By way of example the first all LED power shovel and dragline excavator were projects I did. Pretty cutting edge stuff at the time almost 10 years ago. The “headlights” had 180,000 lumens output all passive cooling (no fans) with 200% heat sinking (it is after all a dirty mining environment). Each light weighed 120 lbs., nearly all of it heat sink. So fans are nice but not necessary at any lumen level, As to dimming, they don’t and I doubt they would except at full discharge 2+ hours later. This is total BS. Do you have a domestic (European or American) battery operated LED work light? Or are you just an Asian troll? There are three design issues with power LEDs. The first one is it outputs light all forward in about a 120 degree beam angle. Reflector optics don’t work. You need lenses so just putting LEDs in existing fixtures like putting LEDs in a Maglight is really inefficient. Second they put off a light of heat, also unfortunately right at the surface of the diode, and the diode life quickly vanishes if it gets more than beach sand warm. So massive heat sinks, with or without fans, are an absolute must. Early on you could tell the Asian knockoffs by the size of the heat sink. Third high output LEDs exhibit negative resistance and also variable resistance with temperature. That means that as voltage gets close to the operating point resistance decreases with increasing voltage leading to a runaway thermal failure issue and that controlling voltage is useless because resistance varies. You can get some output with a simple series resistor (and horrible efficiency) but nothing like full output. The key is controlling current, not voltage. Most are constant output but some have on board temperature sensors so you can run them even harder by controlling current at the measured thermal limit. They need about 6 Volts minimum. So dimming should not happen until the batteries are almost completely dead. But the obvious thing here is that until that point battery voltage does not matter. Finally one of the big problems with China is they do not have product liability or truth in advertising laws. So if the light output is say 2500 lumens at the LED itself under optimal (not achieved) conditions ignoring the lenses they will just round it up to 10,000 lumens. That is the situation the domestic companies found themselves in 10 years ago which is why we kept seeing “60 W EQUIVALENT” advertising instead of actual lumens. Eventually they started leaking actual test results and the Chinese manufacturer lies were exposed along with a lot of domestics, too. Today it doesn’t matter if it says a million lumens. You can pretty quickly tell what works looking at what other contractors are using. I retired my Chinese no name stuff once the brand name stuff started beating it. What I find truly funny about all this is that the better drivers are mostly designed and built by Phillips, a European company. Chinese designs are mostly low quality knock offs of their boards. The best LEDs and the majority of the high power LEDs are made by Cree. However unlike Intel, AMD, etc., Cree has their chip fab plant in Durham, NC. And yes I see plenty of cheap Chinese lights on the job site. It’s the guys that have a lighting budget. You know, they have a different light every time you see them. I paid twice as much but it lasts 3 times longer and doesn’t burn out in the middle of a late night emergency job: So sure I think 10,000 lumens is easily possible with Makita blue plastic trim over cast aluminum passive heat sinks. It’s going to be heavy but it’s an area/site light. As a task light it will supplement a backhoe or truck loading but if you need a light in a cabinet, better use a 200-500 lumen flash light or a 1000-1500 lumen task light. Or better still get two to reduce shadows. I have a few Makita crew tools but my work load is mostly electrical and mechanical. The Makita tool line is more geared towards carpenters. Hopefully lighting will only get better. I’m getting close to 50 and my sight isn’t what it used to be. If Makita makes something better though I’m sure I will get one or my crew will.
  7. Well in theory 300 lumens per Watt can be done. https://www.cree.com/news-media/news/article/cree-first-to-break-300-lumens-per-watt-barrier But realistically that’s a lab number. Workibg it backwards Milwaukee claims around 2 hours of the same 5 Ah battery at 3000 lumens on their flagship 2135-20 rocket. So if we can get 100% out of the battery, we would get 5 x 18 = 90 Watt-hours, dividing by 2 hours gives us a 45 W draw so they are getting roughly 3000 / 45 = 67 lumens per Watt. I’m reasonably sure the LEDs are more efficient than that but this is kind of an “end to end” comparison with all inefficiency lumped into the lumens per Watt number. Obviously there is room for improvement. So with 10,000 lumens we can guesstimate 333% more power draw so with two 6 Ah batteries the largest officially available that gets us 1.44 hours run time. Realistically it’s probably less than that since battery output (Ah) is less as current demand increases. There is certainly room for improvement and a full two hours run time might not be impossible.
  8. I think Milwaukee and Dewalt top out at around 3500 lumens currently. Battery life at 3500 lumens is terrible even with large ones. 10,000 lumens isn’t going to be very practical except plugged in but that’s ok because we need that too on some jobs, I’m slowly coming around to the idea that having 2 or 3 lights is much better than one big one though. More uniform lighting with fewer shadows.
  9. That’s the idea. Toughsystem is more for mobile such as tools that you don’t need every week. Regular racks and drawers are fine in shops.
  10. Forging is blacksmirhing. You can automate to some degree but it does not change the fact that forging is hammering low carbon steel or iron into shape. Since it develops laminations and grain structures it can be stronger than casting or extrusion but the cost is the slow process.. The only way you will get a forged fence is from a forge...blacksmith. They are around but there are as many blacksmiths today as in the 19th century. I would go to a living history museum site like colonial Williamsburg. What you are talking about is hundreds of hours of labor if you can find someone willing to do it. If you do it let your mind run wild because every part is hand made so no reason to be symmetrical and identical. As to critters fences stop deer. In Kentucky they use a double fence 4-5 feet tall spaced about 6 feet apart on the million dollar horse farms. Deer are thrown off by trying to jump both fences so they don’t try. They use limestone dry stacked which is a nuisance in that area they just have to remove and stack up anyway. On deer farms they use 12-16 foot fences. For rabbits dig 12 inches down and put in hardware cloth or chicken wire 3 feet tall so 2 feet is above grade. With birds same material over the top. Or just use a green house. Or do what farmers do. Grow plenty of extra and hunt the local animal/food population too.
  11. Wow, very nice prizes. No holds barred.
  12. Works good. But it’s not that much shorter. You didn’t say if you mean Milwaukee stubby or Dewalt Atomic stubby. The other option is the right angle “wrench” thing but it is kind of a dud. It is shorter yet. If you use it correctly though all it does is speed up tightening and loosening. Then you still have to use a hand wrench for final tightening. Used incorrectly you ignore that and use it as a bulky wrench but the gearing gives out quickly. A guy on my crew had one but not impressive at all. It seemed like a good idea but he eventually gave up and went back to traditional impacts. The window where the compact length helps doesn’t justify lugging another tool and we work out of service trucks so every tool has to be hauled to most job sites. Thing is both get in MORE places while not sacrificing enough torque in a mid range 3/8” impact but in today’s compact world where every fastener is a pain, there is still a lot of hand wrenching. You have to ask yourself if you already have a compact impact how much shorter is it really. If you need a new compact impact then go for it but otherwise I wouldn’t buy it just for 1/4”. It’s not like the difference between a high and mid torque or 1/2” vs 3/8” or even brushed vs brushless. It’s 3/8” vs 3/8”. No real downside either so it becomes your daily driver not the special one you use rarely. Automotive and AP mechanics are always searching for yet another tool to get to yet another poorly designed fastener. They are happy when it gets them another 1-2% of the world. Glad I’m doing industrial work where my big problems are when we have to break out the torque multipliers and hydraulic bolt stretchers.
  13. Pro tools? So they are going to sell brands other than Craftsman crap? Or wait for it, going above 1” electrical fittings as an example?How about wrenches exceeding 3/4”? Ok here’s an easy one...will the new pro desk clerks be picked the same way Menards does it? Maybe sort their lumber once in a blue moon so their “top grade” or whatever they call it isn’t all the crooked and knotted ones? Is it too much to ask to carry professional tool brands not made by SBD? The only pro moves I’ve seen so far is they added parking spaces around the lumber entrance making it even more crowded, clearanced out the remaining Kobalt tools I used to actually buy once in a while, shrank the Dewalt section to smaller than the one at Tractor Supply, and changed from Southwire to more Crescent or Ideal (forgot which) labeled tools in the electrical aisle. No Klein, Greenlee, or Milwaukee to be found, except at HD. I even had to buy Schlage locksets at HD because all Lowe’s carries now is plastic Qwikset and some off brand and equally cheap line. I don’t even comparison shop there anymore. They’re ok for maybe light bulbs and charcoal when I don’t want to deal with Walmart but no serious contractor bothers. Meanwhile if you need anything and I mean anything not in the stores chances are HD Supply carries it. Or you can check HF or Northern or your flavor of supply houses. While HD has become less and less homeowner oriented Lowe’s seems like they don’t even know who their customers are. I’m sure converting all their employees to hourly and cutting hours so no benefits either was a winning move with the employees that don’t give a crap either now. They used to be able to hire semi-retired or injured contractors. Now it’s just kids out of high school that don’t know what a 3/4” elbow is other than a skinny part of the body. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Manufacturing and consumers in the states are a mixed bag or Milwaukee would be out of business. In a true free market such as commodities with no competitive advantage it is purely a supply and demand game. This is great for consumers because nobody makes any money and the price is as low as possible. It is awful for manufacturers though because they will have maybe 2-3% margins at best when the stock markets demand at least 10% or better. They will soon be out of business. That is where a lot of Asian tool brands are at and what you see all over ebay and Amazon. They pop up and disappear for a reason. What you want/need as a manufacturer is a competitive advantage. You have to sell your name and reputation, superior product, better customer support, something. This is the opposite of a free market. Lower prices only works long term as long as somehow nobody else can beat you on manufacturing costs. There has to be a reason and it has to be some kind of natural geographical feature that cannot be duplicated. Otherwise that is strictly a short term game. This is why Australia beats the world when it comes to delivered price for coal and iron to China...shipping cost advantages being “next door”, even though those are commodities. Australia is home to BHP for a reason and BHP is the largest mining company in the world. Premium tools are an oligopoly. The market is dominated by a small number of competitors. In that market we get Sweezys kinked demand model. Prices are set by watching each other. If you lower prices so do your competitors and everyone loses money instead of picking up market share. If you raise prices the competitors let you and you lose market share. This keeps prices in line. Occasionally competitors will run sales or threaten a price increase and test the water to see if the competitors will follow. Or something happens to raise or lower costs and then everyone tends to go up or down until they all settle down again. It may appear to be a free market but in reality it is right on the edge between a true free market and an unfree one. Hence as s consumer you can see how free markets keep everyone honest and the system is as fair as possible. As a manufacturer the goal is to constantly find new ways to “beat the system” to make more money. I’ve worked for years on the engineering side of things. I am really good at lean manufacturing... finding ways to reduce costs. But I have never, ever seen a company cost reduce themselves into profitability. That is the sirens call of lean manufacturing but it is an illusion. Again your competitors will just follow your lead. My competitors can’t hide their secrets from me for long and vice versa. It is a big financial benefit and worthwhile to improve manufacturing but to make large margins you have to have a competitive advantage, some new technology or something. Cost reduction alone is a proven failure. Harvard MBAs have been pushing this idea of squeezing every last drop of profit out of everything across the world and they have absolutely nothing to show for it but the dried up husks of once powerful and innovative companies they left behind them. When these locusts move in the first thing they do is get rid of all “extra” costs. Not just wages and benefits. They also dump or strip R&D, all new product development, all customer support, and strip sales down to a web site. They grind down and remove every spare clerk, foreman, you name it. They infest the company with low paid cheap staff that either can’t or have no interest in product quality. They get rid of accessories and add on products or price them off the market. After a few rounds of this the company is sold off or deemed unprofitable and goes bankrupt. They even call themselves manufacturing efficiency consultants. There is some good in all of it but largely it’s a scam. Ever heard of Engelhard, Griffin Pipe, or Dravo? Those are ones I worked at. Or the king if them all, GE? All eaten by Harvard locusts. So I understand your attitude that price rules everything. Price is very important but if it is all that matters then both the manufacturer and the consumer eventually lose.
  15. I keep splicing materials in a bag. I do a lot of large motors (motor shop) where it might take 6 rolls of tape or more for one motor. Along with silicone grease and liquid electrical tape. I tried to keep wire ties too but that’s just too much. They get their own bag. I tried organizing the splicing material but it seems to be best just to keep it all in a zipper bag with shears. That bag goes in the roll around base box which goes on all jobs outside of troubleshooting and controls. I break out the boxes of lugs and wire nuts because I don’t need to lug around 500 MCM lugs on a 25 HP motor but might need #14 lugs for thermal switches on a 2500 HP motor. The little Dewalt half width clear parts boxes fit the wire nuts. I need tape for marking and splicing on all of them but I don’t need tape on control jobs where I still need a knife and wire strippers so those stay in the main tool bag. I keep just one roll of 33+ or 88 there for troubleshooting. It seems like this stuff is scattered a bit but it is task specific. Another item is screws. The cheaper “small” Toughsystem tool box has 4 bins and an open center main compartment. There are two small bins in the top of the lid with a bunch of dividers. So I keep concrete anchors and drills in one bottom bin, another two dedicated to hole saws, step bits, and other special bits. The top bins have assortments of drywall, wood, and self tapping screws. The center compartment holds the drill, drill index, and extension handle. So everything “drill” related is in one box. I rarely use the side clips. I did at first but realized on the cart it’s not going anywhere. At best it’s somewhat anti-theft. Everything stays put normally as long as you engage the feet. I just stack the bins neatly on the bottom one and wheel it in. But this week was an exception. One day I was working in a vault. I got there early. So just closed the clips and lowered all the tools for the job into the vault with a rope by myself. Saved a lot of trips that way. Second I was driving at highway speeds and I had an empty tote loosely on top in the bed of the truck that I had emptied of parts. It was gusty that day. You can guess where this is going. It flew out just past an exit ramp where the detour to retrieve it was about 6 miles. I’ll think twice next time. As a +1 for Toughsystem a big black and yellow box flying out the back catches your eye in the mirrors easily and a second +1 not a scratch on it I could see! Ive dropped them, stood on them, had stuff drive on them, and now launched them and they keep holding up. Only problem I’ve had is when I put a new one in service and forgot to close the air valve on top, the parts inside were standing in an inch of water where a week of monsoon weather got into the box. But as a further +1 I live in coastal North Carolina. My tools in my unheated garage rust from constant high humidity and condensation. It’s a huge problem. But as long as I don’t close up the boxes with water inside or when it is raining, I’ve had almost no rust issues.
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