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About paulengr

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  1. Ok so I already have the M18 grinder. I have a nice corded Dewalt for bigger jobs. Also have the M18’saber saw. And a 20 year old Hitachi brand corded Sawzall which does OK for demo work. Also HF electric shears. And Greenlee knockout punches and the Gator Pro punch adapter that I’ve modified to run the stainless punches too (sweet!)So in electrical I often do a lot of panel cutouts. Right now I mark and either drill corners and finish with the saber saw where it fits or the grinder otherwise with a cutoff blade, or else start with the grinder and use the saber saw where I can. I’ve been thinking about swapping the corded sawzall for cordless but it does an awful job for things other than demo work. Been thinking about a cordless cold saw instead. Any thoughts from those who have one compared to the other tools I already have? I’m just about convinced that most of the time the grinder is best at throwing sparks and grinding but for clean cuts and efficient metal removal it’s not the best but the saber saw is hard to get in many spots. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. 1. There is a big difference between a security clearance such as for a military post or a prison and say security guard for a warehouse. 2. The best thing about security guards is if you combine it with going to school for an even better job. The security jobs that are slow enough give you plenty of time to “pass the time”. In other words studying for college! 3. Stop wasting your time aiming low. Think about what you want to do long term and work towards that goal. High paying jobs are the ones that are low in supply like require special skills or credentials. There is a big reason lawyers and doctors make lots of money and it’s not working harder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. It is virtually impossible to have a monopoly in the US without government intervention. As soon as one gets close another knocks them down. As #2 you simply target the best customers not the whole market. The biggest has to eat the worst customers to stay the biggest. So Walmart will fall eventually just as Sears and K-Mart have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Not sure about WiFi which is a totally different standard but wireless garage doors were standardized which is why for instance new vehicles come with built in buttons. We’ve had to replace the buttons on ours. You just hit the programming button on the door controller from a step ladder then the remote. On some you can do it all from the remote. Kind of like Bluetooth pairing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. paulengr

    air grinder

    Uhh attach a piece of wood to it with say hose clamps but no matter what you do the tool is just plain going to be severely out of balance. If you want an air angle grinder buy one. They are so cheap just the materials to mod a straight grinder blows up your budget. Can’t you by a cheap Campbell off Amazon or Walmart for $25? It will be far better. I parked the compressor permanently off the truck two years ago. I think the last job we used one was for impacts on a job with 1-5/8” bolts 3 years ago back when 150-200 ft-lbs was it for cordless while air impacts were at 600 ft-lbs. Now with Milwaukee’s cordless at 1400 ft-lbs the air tools are retired on our crew. There are still lots of uses but angle grinding not so much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I don’t think any drill works that way except I think I’ve seen one with what amounts to a standard one with a torque sensor added to it. None of the major brands have torque control as a setting. Sure you can often adjust it but it’s not a set value. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I don't see a capacitor in your photos. The capacitor does not have to be on the motor itself. That's more of a pump/appliance thing. There are a couple components to look for. First in almost all cases the motor has three wires and two stator coils, a run coil and a start coil if it's a nonreversing motor. The coils share one of the three wires. Locate the wires and use an ohm meter on them. You should get 3 different readings. Direction doesn't matter. So start with the highest reading. This means the third wire is the shared one. This reading should be pretty close to the sum of the other two. The middle reading should be roughly twice the smallest reading. If you read open or shorted (less than 1 ohm) the motor is fried and needs replacement. Moving on next you can have 0, 1, or 2 capacitors depending on the design. 120/240 V is single phase so without another phase the motor is not self starting. So the motor might be shaded pole and only have two wires but those are really inefficient so not on a planer. Second is it might have permanent caps but they might be hidden inside. With both caps the first one is a run capacitor. This increases the voltage and power to the motor. Not a necessity but most have one. It will be in parallel with the run leads (smallest resistance). Second is a starting capacitor that is in parallel with the start winding (middle resistance). These are bigger and contain a can filled with a roll of paper and aluminum foil soaked in an electrolyte such as glycol. It has a very distinct odor. The can is crimped shut. When the electrolyte dries out (roughly 10 years) or if the motor doesn't start after about 30 seconds or so (run caps are huge so they are thermally limited to reduce size) the capacitor overheats, the electrolyte boils, and the steam blows up the capacitor. This is what happens 95% of the time. There are two ways motor running is detected. Method one more common on cheap motors uses an inertia switch which is what it sounds like. A spring loaded switch hugs the motor shaft. Once it starts spinning a weight on the shaft pushes a lever to open the switch. These either get fouled or wear out pretty easy. Or thers is a voltage sensor that opens once the motor turns and the voltage across the start coil drops. This is called a potential relay. Much more reliable but they still go bad. If either type is present and they fail the start cap blows out too. Except the inertial switch this can all be inside or outside the motor housing. If it's inside you'll have to pull the end caps off. If you do the bearings are pressed in so often this destroys the bearings. In the motor shop we just replace them anyways. Plus if you can't tell this is all leading towards the fact that if it's something simple and obvious to test and replace, do that. But otherwise the cost and time of troubleshooting and sourcing parts often exceeds the cost of the planer itself or retrofitting another motor. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  8. 1. A patent is a license to sue. It costs a couple million per suit. Are you prepared for this? This is irrespective of NDAs etc. 2. How iron clad is your patent? Think of alternative implementations or design improvements. In a former job I was paid to technologically bust patents. It’s very easy with 99% of them. With the 1% like “swipe to unlock” it’s not so easy. 2. Have you done any market research? On the high end you will be constrained by $100 for name brand battery impacts never mind air impacts and you are increasing both manufacturing costs and hopefully margins. If the price point isn’t high enough the idea is worthless from a business point of view. 3. Realistically the next step would be to go to a small tool manufacturer and try to sell royalties. You’re looking at a small piece of already small margins on a specialty and thus small volume market. The goal is of course to eventually sell the patent outright or royalties to SBD. That means look at your marketing. Believe it or not, ideas are actually super cheap. Only a tiny few are marketable. Even fewer still make a lot of money, 99.99% of the time since you have to publish everything in a patent using trade secrets gets you to the market far faster, costs zero to defend, and keeps design details out of the public eye. At a bare minimum I’d say 90% of patents are “fakes”...they patent a very similar but related idea that encompasses the one they want to protect but they publish a bogus embodiment that is not a functioning design. Patents don’t have to be for real devices, just meet the rules. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Maybe... not sure where they get them but for decades many large circuit breakers (1000+ A ANSI style draw outs in cast frames) use Ryobi drill motors to charge up the spring mechanism, But be aware of what happens when you do what you describe and this goes for the speed adjustments on the drills. Most of the older ones used a brushed “universal” motor which is a DC motor. Adjusting the DC voltage adjusts the speed but the magnetic field comes from permanent magnets so torque is fixed. The AC is usually left alone. A lamp dimmer uses a device called a TRIAC or two SCRs. When the AC wave goes through 0 A and this is key it turns off. The circuit detects the Voltage (not current) zero and then based on a timer fires a pulse that turns the TRIAC on. By manipulating the timing you get a from 0 to 100% of a chopped wave. On a resistive load like an incandescent or halogen load you get light dimming down to about 25% then rattling filaments from 25% to 0%. A motor, particularly a DC motor though is highly inductive. The dimmer will fire to turn it on but because inductive current severely lags voltage it does not turn off like you expect and the effect is also load dependent! Suggest you look at KB Electronics or Automation Direct. A small cheap real DC or AC motor controller will run about the same price as the lamp dimmer. Plus you can use very cheap small AC or DC motors without having to Frankenstein something with a drill and the cost won’t be much. Or you can look at Vex or the FiRST Robotics retailers that sell high performance servo controllers for under $100 and motors for half that. Sometimes scrounging just costs you money and time in the long run when you can buy the real stuff so cheaply. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Sounds like cell reversal. No recovery from that. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  11. I have the better grade Dewalt corded 11 A version and the Milwaukee fuel cordless. Hands down the little and much lighter Dewalt runs rings around the Milwaukee. If I did it again and I could only buy one, I’d get the corded. But take for instance yesterday where I needed to grind off some rusted bolts and do some sheet metal modifications on a starter I was rebuilding. No idea where the nearest receptacle is and didn’t care. I did everything with the Milwaukee. Now if I had to grind out welds all shift or do a big 1/2” plate bevel or strip paint, it’s the Dewalt all the way. So it depends on what you need to do. If the cord is convenient or it’s a big job, I grab the corded. Otherwise I slap the battery in and go to town. We’ve got some Dewalt 20V Max too. The Milwaukee fuel version does a lot better. It doesn’t stall out nearly as easy. But it’s hard to stall the corded Dewalt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. New batteries often act like they have a charge when they don't. That's why the instructions usually say to charge them for several hours (overnight) before the first use. It might look "full" but it's not. And if the battery is super low charge you run the risk of cell reversal with full charging current. This is where for some reason one of the cells (1.4 V each) suddenly and permanently reverses poparity. The safest way to charge truly dead batteries is trickle charging. Maybe if it sees under a certain voltage the charger goes straight to trickle mode which would be a steady light. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  13. To start every line will have a drill/driver and a circular saw. Look beyond those because at $50-100 per battery you don't want to own too many different batteries, although there is nothing wrong with lots of batteries. Do you see yourself doing lots of carpentry? Finish or rough? Plumbing? Electrical? Some lines don't have great support for certain things. Like a PEX expander/crimper if you foresee doing lots of plumbing in awkward spaces where running copper might not be the best plan. Or doing lots of concrete and brick drilling. Or turning wrenches on a lot of large (1"+) bolts. Or having a good demolition saw (aka Sawzall). Or good lighting. Each of the professional lines has its strong suits. For instance as mentioned Festool has some awesome wood working tools but Dewalt does too and is considerably more common. For what you've said so far you can't go wrong with Dewalt or Makita but Dewalt will be lower cost. I would never consider Milwaukee M12 as your main tool line. What it's goid for is light weight "every day" tools. So if you need a drill/driver, fine. Even a mini demolition saw that's not so mini. It has a circular saw that will go to town on 2x4 and 2x6 but not a common 4x4 where even a corded saw does that. They have the shortest compact impact wrench. It has a band saw but the throat limits you to under 1". Fine for water lines but not DWV. Decent lighting options but short battery life. Eventually you need a good larger circular saw, demolition saw, drill/driver that can do concrete and that's where M12 falls down. This is why M12 is a good secondary tool line. Starting out though I'm not sure this would not be a bad first choice if you have access to larger tools or maybe some older stuff. Going the other way if you buy into a large set with 3-5 tools now in saw Dewalt 20 V line then later down the road buy the small light Milwaukee M12 drill you won't take such a big hit to the pocket the moment you find yourself having to buy a bigger or more specialized tool and getting stuck buying batteries too. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  14. Pretty much any high nickel filler is the trick. Use lots of passes depending on thickness and grind out any defects. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. It's easy to beat tool truck markups. Can't do it with Matco but for instance Williams is Snap on without the Snap on logo. Proto/Blackhawk and Facom are MAC minus the logo. These are industrial brands typically sold through large industrial distributors and some automotive distributors. I have a 1/2" Blackhawk impact socket set from 30 years ago. They are much thinner and tighter tolerances than the HF set that I have. Back then I lived in the boonies several states away where the local automotive supply was the tool store in town other than K-Mart, no Wal-Mart at that time. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
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