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NERemodeling

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Posts posted by NERemodeling

  1. Damn! That thing is nice looking... clearly the next big thing to hit the market. Anyone want a free kapex, I'm gonna trade up to this thing :)

    Actually, from a little digging, it seems to be an early 80's Black and Decker 7715 and it most certainly didn't come from the factory like that!!

  2. NER thanks man I gotta check those out one blade does all that?

    Thats been my experiance, they truly amazed me especially the metal and plaster they can cut (bosch even says ceramic tile although i havent tried)    they might not be the fastest or best choice for wood cutting but they will get the job done. 

     

    the best blade i have come across for just wood (even with some embedded nails, not screws) is the Fein e-cut long life

  3. I just ordered a 10 pack of blades from OEMPTA I'll see if it was worth the 25 bucks for the Bi-Metal blades. I have had really good luck with the Bosch blades but feel like I'm getting f$*& and not even getting a kiss. I just went through 4 of the Bosch 114C blades doing a hardwood floor repair, those cut nails will destroy a blade.

    you blew through 4 of the carbide tipped bosch blades of a flooring repair?!?!   how many nails did you cut?    i used one blade to cut dozens of trim nails and framing nails, probably 8 hardened GRK screws, 6 of the nailing straps on old metal outlet boses (probably equates to 1.5' of 3/32 steel), at leats a dozen holes in plaster walls for old work boxes, wood etc. etc. etc...    while that one blade is slowing down with metal (it will still cut it) it still has visible teeth and works for plaster, sheetrock etc.    that was all one blade!

     

    with old bi-metal blades (even imperial or Fein) i would be lucky to get through 2 or 3 screws before the blade was 100% shot  never mind plaster!

  4. if you already have the screws, and since you are doing this work on your own house where time isnt as important then i would say just use the dimplers  you can google the "Bosch Dimpler" which seems to be a step up from the little 1" bits

     

    I have used the 1" bits with the collar fixed in place on smaller patches and they work well ..  you will probably blow through a dozen of them with that size job so factor that into the cost .  

     

    also check ebay for a cheap used drywall screw gun.. you can probably pick up something decent that will get you though your job for $25, that will probably be your fastest and cheapest option

     

    new tools are always cool but if you are never gonna use a collated drill again in your life then i say use that money on another tool you will get more use out of..   

     

     

    now.. here is some food for thought.   if you have never done drywall work before..... it sucks!   hanging it is the easy part and thats not even all too enjoyable.   based on a basic 2 car garage 8 foot ceilings doing walls and ceilings and a regular sized bathroom walls and ceilings, for all the materials (probably around 60 sheets of 4x8) including the sheets, compound, your lift, some sort of bits or cheap drill, joint tape, t square and sandpaper your gonna be very close to $1000 in materials alone..   just for shits and giggles you may want to consider having a few contractors quote the job.  you may find that its not even worth you doing the work for what you will save!

     

    not trying to deter you, just give you options to think about. 

    • Like 1
  5. Your 100% in the right... maybe you should have called him out about the damage before he left the job just to eliminate any possible denial from him after the fact (he is most likely denying it to mommy).

    He's damn lucky that he got off so cheap, imagine if the piece needed to be replaced, maybe it couldn't be fixed or maybe the customer didn't accept the repair!!

    Also the fact that he got the $100 is super generous of you, I'm sure you had at least $100 worth of your time tied up into coordinating the repair and explaining it to the customer.

  6. Does anyone know if Ryobi plans to release a 18v led stick light anytime soon? My father is a painter and could really use one to cast light parallel to the wall when prepping. It really makes any imperfection stand out. Whenever we happen to be on jobs together (usually him painting my jobs) he uses my makita 12 led lights (lxlm03) and really likes them but he has the Ryobi 18v platform so it would be nice if he could just buy the bare tool light and not have to buy a light battery and charger of another brand..

    My wishful thinking hopes they have one before christmas, I'd love to grab him a few as a gift.

  7. Anyone with a multi tool that even comes close to metal seriously owes it to themselves to try a Bosch OSC114C. It's the carbide tipped version. That thing will cut metal, plaster, drywall wood and probably anything else you throw at it.

    StevenK, I would go as far as saying one or two of these will last as long as all 50 of your amazon blades!

    Tools-plus.com is the cheapest I've found them. 1=$12. 2=$19. 5=$38. 10=$69. That's pretty darn cheap

  8. Claudio, you can have the bottle oppeners, fans and caps! I want the good stuff. All those hot off the press tools!!!

    Chadlanthier, 99% of the time it seems to be that way... we do get a few things that they dont.. I'm pretty sure it has to do with much looser regulations overseas.. It's almost like the testing ground for new tools, a way to work the kinks out.. that's my take anyway

  9. Thanks NE.....looks like I'll be working some OT but not too much....40% off is one heck of a deal. I'll have it paid off in a couple of weeks with my tool money set aside.

    it's gonna be well worth the money. you made the right choice, trust me.. your gonna love it! I'm pumped for you that you were able to snag it!! Happy cutting :)

    • Like 1
  10. That's what I figured.. somebody's gotta make one with carbide cutters

    I used to use bimetal holesaws but man do they wear out quick in plaster. I also used to just regrind the teeth with my angle grinder but it's such a hassle.

    I've started using carbide grit rim holesaws and they actually work great..

    Was just considering another possible option

  11. how much do they charge for that service with shipping etc....but I will def start to use that vinegar cleaning solution with my blades

    the last batch of blades i sent out was 3 forrest  and one kapex blade for a total of 4 bades and 5 router bits of various shapes/styles   

    it cost me about $9 to ship to them usps priority   all the sharpening cost $101 and their return shipping was $15 ups

    total was around $125 to make over $600 worth of blades and bits function like new again    hard to beat!!  also it only took a bit over a week from the time they left me to when i had them back

     

    this link should take you to their pricing list   http://www.burnstools.com/images/pdf/sharpening_prices.pdf

    • Like 1
  12. Hey NE, what about the LS121 or do you think the same problems? I like the idea of the four rails for space limitations.

    Im assuming you just abbreviating but wanted to make sure you were asking about the Ls1216L... my gut would have to say it's a bunch of the same.. I think it was released after the 10" so maybe they worked some kinks out but I did a quick parts check and the actual base of the saw is the same part for the 10 and 12 inch which leads me to believe it only has a few tweaks to fit the 12" blade. It also still has the awful 5 piece fence.. the 4 rail was never the problem for me and while it does save some rear space it wasn't a ton..

    I think the Dewalt 12" saws need a ton of rear room due to some of them having up to 16" cross cut capacity.. avoid that and make your large cross cuts with a track saw.

    you may want to SERIOUSLY consider the Bosch axial glide for your situation, again no personal use but from what I understand it's a great saw.. and amazon is showing it to be only 50 more than the 12" making it only $650

  13. Possibly look into the making ls1018... $350 with amazon prime. it looks like they dumbed down the design of the 1016 which is a good thing. I have no experience with the 1018 though.. honestly I don't think you can go wrong with the Dewalt for the money.

    Whichever way you go make sure you have a quality blade on the saw.. a full kerf blade will give you less deflection and more blade stability and a negative hook angle blade is better suited for miter saws as well

  14. Ahhh. Maybe it magically appears on the home page when you reach the post count. That explains why I could never see it and then one day it smacked me in the face!! I thought I was blind! Haha
    keep posting!!
    you looking anything in particular? I'll Tell You If It's in there

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