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redmed

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Posts posted by redmed

  1. I'll just keep my fingers crossed and wait for the water heater to make the next move.  I just wish they would spray that tank lining into air compressor tanks.  My air compressor tank sprung a leak.  Wish I could wrap that foil tape and 3M adhesive around the air compressor tank.  Replacement tanks are expensive.

  2. 13 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:

     

    Spray with 3m super 77 adhesive first, let it tack up then use the foil tape... in time, the tape will pull away because of the age of the insulation wrap, dirt build up etc if the spray adhesive isn't used

     

    Honestly, id just throw that jacket away.

     

    What you doing with your water heater?

     

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    My water heater is 16 years old.  When I heard that new government regulations where coming into effect (last year?) that would change the physical size of water heaters I decided to get a identical water heater as I currently have while it was still available.  I opened the insulation jacket to get the model number and ever since I have not been able to get tape to hold the insulation jacket closed for very long.  I'll use the 3m super 77 adhesive and foil tape, thanks.  For now the new water heater is still sitting in the box.  When the old water heater rusts through and starts leaking I'm hoping to be able to swap the new water heater in with minimal modifications.

     

    I learned about changing anode rods after the current water (A O Smith) was about ten years old.  I tried to remove the old anode rod but could not get it loose using a breaker bar and a friend holding the water heater.  So I gave up and the old anode rod is still in the tank.  When I install the new water heater I plan to replace the anode rod every few years and I'm hoping my Milwaukee M18 impact will pop the anode rod off with ease.  I figure the old water heater is pretty much toast now that it's 16+ years old anode rod is probably non-existent.  Or should I replace the anode rod in the old water heater?  I read that the spray in lining in water heaters is sometimes good and sometimes not so good.  The lining in my old water heater must be pretty good to last 16 years.

  3. Guy's I opened the insulation jacket on my water heater to get the model number and now the tape holding the insulation jacket together will not hold the jacket together for more than a few hours.  I tried using duct tape but it only holds the jacket closed for a day at most.  The tape that came with the jacket was white and held the jacket together for 14 years.  Does anybody know what kind of tape will hold like the original tape?

  4. 1 hour ago, Fazzman said:

    The jaws close and open parallel,they are also faster. 

    I have the smaller one on my wishlist,I havent really been buying too many tools lately other than things I need for around the house maintenance wise and such.

    So you have the larger one?

    If so, is it too large and the smaller one would be more usefull?

    When I was looking at them I was not sure what size to get.

  5. 8 minutes ago, JerryNY said:

    Their quality is pretty fantastic off the bat. The parallel closing jaws grip really well and limit marring surfaces. You can use them like a ratchet by alternately loosening your grip. They can flatten small sheet metal pieces, kinda  like a mini metal brake. I use them to fix dented putty knife edges. They are just useful all around. I have a pouch for my must have tools that has a ratcheting screwdriver and my Pliers Wrench in it at all times. It can replace a bunch of other tools and  excels at most jobs, unlike many jack of all trades... 

    The ability to ratchet is a plus, something I didn't think of.  They seem like they would be bulky.  I mean not be able to get a grip on nuts, in some tight spaces, due to the size of the jaws.  I rarely use a Crescent wrench because of their jaw size and thought the Pliers wrench would be just as bulky.  I usually use my ratcheting Gearwrenchs but some times have to go back and grab another one because I misjudged the size.   If the Pliers wrench ratchet pretty easily I might try out a pair.  

    • Like 1
  6. On 3/24/2016 at 5:52 PM, MikeyB said:

    What's the secret again with using a Harbor Freight coupon at the Depot?  Is it better to go to self check out or a cashier? 

    Best chance is go to a Home Depot near a Harbor Freight.  Choose the youngest cashier.  Avoid the grumpy old lady at all costs.

    • Like 4
  7. On 3/18/2016 at 8:17 PM, MikeyB said:

    Redmed, at the end of that video is the guys email address to contact him for info on buying that tool 

    I Should have watched the complete video.  I contacted him and the tool is discontinued but a larger tool is available for $26+$11shipping.  In my searching I found a similar tool called a "Clamptite"

    I'm trying to decide between the CLT01 or CLT05.

  8. Yes a cordless sawsall might be the best in this case.  I use both a Dolmar chainsaw and a cordless M18 Milwaukee Fuel Sawsall to get firewood from my woods.  I find myself using the sawsall more and more.  The sawsall would also be usefull for other things around the house.  Like cutting meta & quick cuts on lumber or demo work.

    • Like 1
  9. 2 hours ago, BMack37 said:
    2 hours ago, BMack37 said:

    Tried three stores, no Dewalts but I did find one(well 5) of the Husky(California Air Tools) Silent Flow compressors for $99. So I bought one, figured worst case scenario I decide I want better specs and return it, have 90 days to decide.

     

    I grabbed a Husky as soon as they dropped down to $99 a few weeks ago.  I figured they would sell out quick like the California Air Tools did.  I was in HD friday and was surprised to still find a Husky still there.

    • Like 1
  10. On 3/6/2016 at 7:57 PM, dwain said:

     

    That's because you've not been exposed to them. Someone in Europe might say the same thing about Dewalt or Milwaukee. Interestingly, all three brands were founded in the same year. Metabo is high-quality German-manufactured gear, which is more than Dewalt or Milwaukee can claim.

     

    My point being, if you'd been exposed to the Metabo name (and products) as much as you had the American brands, you wouldn't say something like this...

    You can say the same about Dolmar chainsaws.  Everyone around here has Sthil chainsaws and swear by them.  When they see my Dolmar chainsaw they look down at it until I fire it up.  When looking for a new chainsaw I checked a forum for arborist's and found that many raved about Dolmar's.  So I got one and I'm glad I did.  It's a light, well balanced speed demon with good vibration damping made by a quality German company that is not well known in these woods.

    • Like 1
  11. On 2/24/2016 at 4:49 PM, JimboS1ice said:

    What does the adapter do? Obviously can't do the tool so does it just do what the Dewalt Bluetooth pack does?

    Jimbo

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I would guess that it controls the amperage released to the tool.  If this is how Milwaukee controls how OneKey can change the torque without physically touching a switch on the tool.  Who would pay over $100 just to see the strength of the battery when the battery comes with a button to display battery strength?

      http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/MILM18ONEKA0 

  12. On 2/27/2016 at 11:09 PM, BMack37 said:

    Don't forget to lube the Craftsman, you'll probably see the most drastic change on that ratchet. It will make it a suitable spare ratchet, the sound of it was the first thing I noticed in your video.

    Another thing to lube.  Never thought of lubing my ratchets but it does make sense. 

    Reminds me of something my father told me "The more you own .. The more you have to take care of"

    • Like 2
  13. A more accurate hack way of doing it in the garage would be to set your torque wrench to 60 lbs or whatever and hang a dumbell from it that is 60 lbs. Let the weight of the dumbbell move the wrench instead of you. Still difficult to get right, but it would be closer than seeing what the breakaway torque is.

    Yes that would probably be pretty good.  Thanks.

  14. I don't have all the M12's you guys have.  Just drills and impacts and a M12 wrench.  What I can say is I will grab a M12 drill over a M18 drill.  Much lighter and easier to use.  In fact I hardly use my M18 drills.  I'm sorry I jumped on the M18 Fuel drill/impact kit from International Tool B4 Christmas.  Now I have regular and Fuel M18 drills I rarely use.  I do use the M18 Impacts sometimes for nut & bolts but most of the time I use my M12 wrench.

  15. That method won't work.  You have to overcome inertia to move the nut, so it will take more than 110 ft-lb to break it loose.  You also shouldn't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, as it were.

    I had thought that tightening to a specified ft lbs then loosening that same nut would be a different amount of torque but don't know of a more accurate way.

  16. I've heard that those torque sticks only work with an air impact and not a cordless impact. I don't know if tgat is true or not though.

    I wish you would have told me sooner.  I already bought a set of torque sticks to use with my 2763. 

    I used the 2763 & a 110 lb torque stick to adjust my HF click torque wrench.  I thought using a torque stick to tighten a nut then adjusting my HF torque wrench to break the nut loose at the same pound setting would make the HF torque wrench fairly accurate.  Now I'm going to have to break out the air impact and use it with the torque extension to see if it is at the same poundage. 

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