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Posts posted by Mattias Blomqvist
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Yes you can for sure fit those in the drill since the batteries are identical. There is no real "20 volt" both batteries give out 20 volts when fully charged but drops down to 18 volt when a load is put on, hence the different namings: XR 18V or XR 20V max
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And a new Stud and Joist drill:
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There's also a new fast charger:
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https://www.instagram.com/p/B8MiONenJJT/?igshid=1ensb60gysu07
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Aaah sweet!
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Yes I have. I think it's best having it at the bottom. It's not even that problematic to put the hose back.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PnWRaeU5YmRnup2j6
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There are some very interesting things I saw in the catalogue (I don’t speak Dutch so I could be mistaken).
Page 74: A free standing bandsaw
Page 96: A jointer
Page 226: Router bits
I know that our friends in Europe get things that we don’t and vice versa but what do you guys think are the odds that we get these things in the states?
The bandsaw and the jointer have been around for a while here. If you haven't got it yet you probably won't get them either, I'm affraid. The router bits are pretty fresh so those might be available for you too.
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https://cld.bz/gtKToMw/63/
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Read again. CORDED...Didn’t even know they had a cordless before. I can’t imagine it did much on 18v nicad.... if you believe the rep it’s the second coming. We will just have to see if 2020 becomes 2026 first?
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Oh it's not the gears on the fence we're talking about here. It's the gears on the blade height adjustment, those should not be plastic on any saw, not even the cheapest you could find on ebay.I have the Milwaukee, yes it feels different than the dewalt, but no problems whatsoever with the gears getting stripped, it's a gear for the fence... I mean really how much torque is there.
I had a Dewalt for years also and ended up with the same problem as described in the op. Sold it n got me the Milwaukee, all is well.
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Thanks for the input Dawg!
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Wait, what? Are the gears on the Milwaukee made of plastic? I hated the switch problem at first but learned pretty soon how to use it. Believe me I have cleaned and lubricated these parts but I don't feel that helps since the problem is in the sliding rear rod..Personally hate the Milwaukee tablesaw, we have two and feels like the gears are stripping... plastic.....we have owned DeWalt corded tablesaws for since they came out, beasts....and the cordless since it came out.... only problem was adjusting the spring on the on/off switch...
...gotta clean and oil All tools,guns etc....no problems with our two and the 12ah batteries Rock in them .
.....had an old Bosch corded for 15 yes that was awesome...
Thanks for the input Joe
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Yep, both saws have the fbric shroud which helps alot but some of the finest dust always finds it's way to the rods. I'm only using dry lube on the rods. I wonder how the same mechanism works on the M18 table saw. From what I've seen it looks alot smoother.Doesn't the Dewalt DWE7491 have some fabric around the blade cover to help with dust collection? I'm not sure if the flexvolt saws have the same thing or not though. We have both an older table saw from Dewalt and a newer DW745, the older one binds up when raising and lowering to the point at which we feel the handle is going to break. On our saw it seems to bind on the the rods at the back of the saw. So if you can imagine the front of the blade housing is going down quicker than the back of it so it binds on the rod/rods. You should be able to reach around and pull on that part to release it when it's starting to bind up. A dry lube might help so sawdust won't stick to rods or the gearing mechanism but that only lasts for a short time
Thanks for the input Paddy
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Damn! I have only cut wood materials on mine and ~70% with a dust extractor hooked up. The bevel works fine for me tho.I have the exact same problem with the exact same saw my blade has problems going up and also have issues with beveling.I cut mostly fiber cement and that voids my warranty and is the cause of my problems for sure. Sawdust and other materials can definantly cause the same issues.
I have found some relief cleaning and lubricants but the problem comes back rather quickly.
Using a Dust extractor should definitely prolong the life of your moving components on the saw
Thanks for your input Jake
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I had the corded DWE7491 before but did not have any similar problem with that. I can't remember if the mechanism was the same on that one. I have regularly cleaned and lubricated the rods but I'm thinking of really tighten up the rear rod and get rid of the slop. It's a shame on a really good table saw otherwise.The same thing happens with the corded models. They need to be cleaned and lubed periodically or they will wear out. Also be careful not to turn them too high or too low it can strip out the aluminum. Once there is slop in them like you see they wear out even quicker.
Thanks for the input Matt
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I have noticed that the blade gets harder and harder to raise with time. I did a little test the other day after cleaning all the gears and threads. I raised the blade some and pulled on the blade guard, witch made the blade pop up a bit. My tought is that there is too much play in the sliding rod behind the blade, making it jam up when raising the blade. Lowering the blade is no problem at all. Watch the videos to better understand what I mean and please ask if you guys still don't understand. Have anyone else experienced similar problems?
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I recommend you to check out coupleatools on Instagram aswell. He has a sweet Tough System build in his van. Might give you some inspiration
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Well they are followed by quintuple, sextuple, septuple, octuple and so on, so on...What happened to triple or quadruple? If your going that route then.
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A friend of mine made me think twice today about my statement, he took a video game as example and told me that two players can play together and that makes it a multiplayer game so I guess it does make kinda sense to call it multivolt.
You win Travis!
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Sorry but I have to disagree with you manMultiple or MultiVolt is accurate and sounds fine to me. It's more than 1 voltage so by definition, multiple works.
Dual is more specific as it specifically denotes 2. Either isn't wrong. I think MultiVolt sounds better.
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Here is how I see it:
1=single
2=dual
3 or more= multi
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It's actually multivolt, which makes no sense in my head. There is no power tool battery that can manage several voltages (3 or above, hence multi). Like framerjoe called it, dualvolt, that sounds better to me
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"Wireless Tool Control Allows for wireless ON/OFF capability when paired with the included Remote or a Wireless Tool Control Enabled Tool"
Finally I see a usable need for the bluetooth feature in tools.
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Here you can spot the new vac in Dewalt's youtube video.
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Sweet! Want onealways browsing the web; just found press release
cordless radio DCR010 / Bluetooth
extract:
With dual 3-inch woofers, the 12V/20V MAX* Jobsite Bluetooth Speaker delivers premium sound with powerful bass and loud volume. The speaker is compatible with 12V MAX* and 20V MAX* batteries (sold separately) and comes equipped with a standard detachable power cord to operate off of a 120V wall outlet.
It can also be used with a FLEXVOLT Battery for extended runtime (sold separately).
Available where DEWALT products are sold in October 2018, the 12V/20V MAX* Jobsite Bluetooth Speaker will come bare for $99 MSRP (DCR010).
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I don't think this was suppose to be uploaded yet
in Dewalt
Posted
Great find. What is Power Detect?
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