Andrull

I love my Irwin Marple Chisels, the M750 series, since I can get to use a normal hammer. And becouse they look beautiful. But then again, they are rarely used. Most to square out some of the edges of the router.

Whats best out of Hilti or Mafell?

Yupp, it's just just like that. :-D My girlfriend is wondering if I soon run out of tools to buy. ^^ Did not have the heart to tell her it is a lot more. A LOT.

Modern LI-ion is a lot better than any the older types. Lithium Ion batteries last the longest at 50% charge. And if you only charge them up to f.eks 80 % and stop discharging them at 20 %, you would probably make them last longer (a fair bit). But it's not necessary, and I don't know anyone that do this.

Lol, it ain't pretty, but damn. Just got myself some modern and awesome functionality. Live stream of IR-image, via old Samsung S2 cell and IP webcam app. Had to make a hollow wooden chock that isolate the screen to remove reflection in display, and make some distanse for the cell's focus. :-p Not much loss of quality, and under 1 sec. Latency. Much easier to whatch your work thermally, without the camera stay in the way, or to stand up.

Weeeeel, that might be true, but if you look at real numbers and not intuition, blowers usually need more power. Thats becouse large demolition hammers/breakers only need to deliver single hard blows, and will take its time charging the mechanism. Still, 15 amp is still a strech with todays batteries. (Unless you use two bulky 6ah 36V batteries) An blower need to turn a fan/turbine at very high speed to push large amounts of air at 200 Mph. The air resistance at thoose speed is not to be taken lightly.

Not that I've tried it, but some whitepapers tests showed pretty close to petrol performance and high endurance with powerfull electric lawn movers like this: http://m.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/tools/cordless-tools/lawnmowers/gra-53.html?sPath=%2FdispatchToProductInCategory.html&defaultWebtrends=true&webtrends=Länderauswahl&webtrends=optional+Sprachauswahl 2x 36V,6Ah. Would probably buy this compared to petrol. With an extra set of batteries, you could use it all day.

Hehe. Then it was mission complete for me.

Thanks, here is some initial pictures I've taken. Closeup of an OP-AMP. As close as I can get with the focus. (resistor) Pretty darn close with the wide angle lens. Here is from a Hydro-Electric damn in the neighberhood, whatching down on to the power-plant, and three people in the distance. Apartment. Even though the ceiling is pretty well isolated, and the temperature in the apartment above is almost the same temp, you can still se the studs and it's temeprature difference. Amazing. Also, in the third image, the ceiling is heated up by two candles. Living creatures Mounted the Fluke in to a Vice grip kind of looking plier, drilled a holes through, that I used as the connector for the arm. And here I'm doing some checkups on a linear voltage regulator module prototype that I'm making. Pretty messy, but thats just how thing become after looking for a fault. : The first resistors went up to 130 degrees celsius, and seriously needed to be changed. Something I had not noticed until I got the FLuke. Prototype with fingers, and then some afterglow. At storage unit at work. Edit: Haven't used the IR-fusion much. FIrst of, it doesn't work with the Wide angle lens, secondly it is a tad harder to get the infrared in focus when you are looking at a image thats already in focus. (And if it is not in focus, the two images doesn't overlap) Lastly, it only works at a distance. I'm guessing at least a meter or two. (3-6 feet) Becouse of the parallax. Aaaand it is the thermal image I'm paying for anyways.

Thanks. I have a relatively speaking, limited experience with different quality on different tools. I've been using the cheapest and most shitty hand tools you can think of. So I decided I make a jump over all the other quality steps, and just invest in the highest grade I could find. I'm sure there is others almost as good, costing half the money I spent. (though, I took some time waiting for a good discount) But if I in the future would make the jump to 'the best', I may save some money just going for the top now, and I just feel so "finished" with this testing of what tools that work, and what doesn't. Anyways, Knipex is one of my favorites, having played with the 10 inch cobra and plier's wrench for a time know, I'm sure I can't go wrong in the knipex world of things. Also, the experience I have from FLUKE at work is very good, so I don't think I could go very wrong there either.

Did not see the exact one, but the non-chrome plated I found here: http://www.kctoolco.com/knipex-10-pipe-gripping-pliers-w-plastic-p/8111250.htm

New, this goes for around 7000 + 1000 (lens)$, where I live. So when a company that had used it two times or so (it even smelt brand new) went bankrupt, I bought it for just 2 grand. :-D Only thing I miss, compared to the newer editions of fluke higher end handheld thermal imagers, is probably an auto-focus. But image quality is just as good though. Hehehe.

Thanks! Its awesome. :-D (My first thermal cam) Even got myself an Wide-Angle lens for it. Makes it even more practical. I'm sure thoose knipex will serve me nice. Already got 2 Wrenches (10" and 6"), a cobra and two other knipex stuff. Just amazing quality.

Nothing like a 16" Knipex Wrench in your hands to make you feel like a real man. :-p Edit: Ahh, its the KNIPEX 81 13 250 CONNECTOR PLIER. For large and delicate pipe connections. http://images.ffx.co.uk/tools/KPX8103250_B.JPG

Got myself a Fluke Ti-29 Thermal Camera (280x210 pixels baby. :-D) My new favorite toy. Rest is mainly knipex, but also some bahco screwdrivers and a Bosch emergency (non-SDS) construction drill-bits. Though, the 7" wrenches, and the extra electrical plier + knipex Magnetic mini-light (for the EL plier) is gona be christmas presents.

Yupp. Looks like the fuel is much better on vibration and the ergonomic side. Easy choice in my mind. Go for the fuel.

Sorry. Made an mistake.

1. It may be that they use input power, like any corded powertools. But remember, at least makita and dewalt give the output-power on some of their cordeless drills. One reason is probably that input-power doesn't say anything on cordeless tools, since you don't need to know if the electrical circuit/breakers can withstand it. But also since they are brushless, output power would be much better marketing. (becouse of higher efficiency) The larger ones is ratet up to 650W output power. Meaning around 800-900W input power probably. runtime is generally not problematic on them, becouse you don't utilize full power all the time, like a shop VAC. More like a second or so. 2. Most modern larger batteries can withstand 50 A. (25A or less per cell). But yeah 1000W output is probably highly unrealistic. 1000 W input/drain from the batteries is borderline, but then again. maby it is not 18V? Could be 21,6V like Hilti or something? 3. "Don't get me wrong, that's an impressively overengineered drill is some ways but for that price they could do so much better." Compared to? Hard to compare price/value on such a specialised product for a handfull people, to China mass producing ones like Milwaukee/Makita/Bosch/Dewalt etc... And a wide range of uses. But sure. If the quality stinks, then it probably isn't worth it. Though, don't know what other options you got drilling and fastening stuff underwater.

Damn. And even a 1000W BL motor. If that is output power, that would be really intense. :-D But hey, who doesn't need to drill some holes on 100m depth?

The makita gold ones is pretty good. Haven't been able to break/shatter the head, and they don't wear down very quickly. However, I'm able to warp/bend the "fins" on the Torx head with the impact driver. The philips head is just fine though. The bosch diamond bits kinda fits/sticks better, and is also very good, if not even better. But have not tested them too long, too know if the 'diamond' layer will stick in the long run.

Bought the bosh carbide blades when I read this thread some days ago. And they just arrived, and gosh, what a difference. :-D Even the bloody Hardened screw when fine without any problems. :-D A high quality screw have in the past been a real nightmare when you find out that you have fucked up bad. :-p

Or even better, finish the normal charging with a deluxe overcharge.

If we assume that they actually got battery-tech that can deliver what they say it can, both in capacity and power. It probably would be pretty close. Remember, 1500 Watts in this comparison, is just the input power, meaning, if you got a more efficient motor, say a brushless, you could lower this by a 20-30%, and still get the same power output. So in reality, the batteries would "only" need to deliver around 1200W, continuous. Still way too much for a normal 18V battery today, and would barely be achieveable with 2x18V (and would give you less than 9 min. runtime with 2x5Ah). Metabo's claim with 87 % more runtime, and 67 % more power would make it pretty darn close. And if you make a few adjustments, giving the tool a bit lower RPM (and use the brushless favorable high torque ratings), you could probably make a close sibling of the tool. Though, I would take Metabo's numbers with a little grain of salt.

How long do you usually have to wait before tools like this officially get its way into europe?

Sorry if I'm talking shit, but when I thighten a bolt by hand, as hard as I can, it have always made me wonder why it was easier to remove the bolt. Could it have something to do with the initial friction, and that you need a fair bit more power to overcome this and turn the actual bolt inn a bit more. (Which would also mean compressing the steel a tiny bit) If this isn't overcome, the bolt will remain stationary, and would not be thightened any more. But when removing it, the initial frictin i less, since it will try to pull the bolt back and lighten the load. Or something like that? This could mean that the tool itself isn't delivering more torque in reverse (same RPM).