Andrull

At least makita doesn't publish nut busting torque. But the more realistic "tightening torque". Problem is that a Impact today is about much more than just the torque. Lucikly, at the very least, we got a rough graph over the torque VS time. And with that, you know how quick it would tighten a bolt. But to be sure, best to se a side by side review. But optimally you also want both the power output and energy (joules) behind each hit. Since, you'd do more than just thighten bolts. The power output could kind of be replaced by either a graph over the RPM (or just RPM under a static load). With those measures, you could tell very accurately how it would perform under different kind of stress. You can't measure torque without load. If you want to brag about a very high torque, you'd want to measure it on the highest possible load you can get. A completly static load. (Not springy). Yes, the RPM is measured at no-load, and will fall with rising load. But problem is that there is no universal standard that define what a "normal" load is, and depends completly on the situation and what tool you use. On drills, perhaps they could all agree to test the RPM at 50 % load of the tool or something. But then again, it would probably be just as good to know the power output. And if you got power (watt), torque, and no-load RPM, you can actually calculate the RPM at your given load. And sometimes the manufactures give some numbers on the power output. At impact wrenches, the situation is a bit different, since the RPM in itself only has meaning at No-load/near no-load situations. Once you got big enough load, and the spring and hammer/anvil starts turning, the actuall RPM you get out of it, (i.e that the user will see), would be defined by the energy delivered, and how often it hits (IPM). This is very impartant if you want to use a auger or large screws. Thanks, explained a fair bit

We don't have this "nut busting" thingy here in Norway either. And on the torque tests on youtube, with torque meter usually seems to show the tightening torque. Pretty equivalent with the graph from Makita. I.e that it reaches and flatten out after a couple of seconds on the tightening torque.

Okay, it's probably not how it is meant to be done, and has probably some kind of safety issues if not done properly. But I actually had to enlarge the arbor size on my last saw-blade with a step drill bit. Worked / fitted beautiful, and it runs without any vibrations.

Awesome! It is tightening torque, yeah. What exactly is nut busting torque? Is it the forces that the nut itself will have to experience from tightening it to the tightening torque? Meaning you should use a nut that can withstand more than that? Or anything else? And how do they measure this? Here is an easier link/picture from the linky: Compared to the milwaukee fuel: 2 inches shorter, 1,6 ibs heavier, 6 % more torque (1/2")/ 4 % more torque (3/4"), and some kind of rubber protection in the front, and a fair bit prettier.

Hehe, yupp. :-D Pretty slick. Yeah, comparing apples to apples, I agree, it probablu ain't in the same clas and not comparable. But since we are comparing lineup on different brands, I would say it is just fair to put it in the mix.

Probably. But why not compare the best vs the best? The 18+18v is probably makitas biggest strength (in my eyes anyway). At least until the others follow the same route. Some tools just really benefit with more power, and doesn't have big problems with 500 gram extra.

Wait, what? Isn't the makita circular saw pretty superior to milwaukee? Thought it got loads more power and runtime (perhaps not when 9 Ah batteries comes). Since it takes two 18V batteries. It can even cut 2 inch timber at 45 degrees with ease. :-D From all the makitas I have, that one must be one of my favorites.

Just throw away that awfull team red. Don't waste your time with cheap tools and bad design. Forget the bad memories and struggles, and step into the blue heaven.

Actually, I have been thinking about converting a small table saw (and take out the original motor), and set on with some tracks or something on the underside, so It could make the 18+18V circular saw slide in under. The batteries is connected on the outside. And on the saw itself is connected with two parallel wires to the battery compartment, so you can control it from the outside with start/stop/safety switch. The track itself/hinge would obviously be connected to the original adjustment for position height and angle. But yeah, I dream makita would make something like that. But if not, I may even make it my self. How hard can it be, right? XD You could of course make it even simpler, with just a MDF-plate or something. But that just screams cheap and homemade. ^^

Straight on. Same "wishlist". And put an 18 + 18V Brushless rotary hammer in there as well. Their 18+18V circular saw is in my eyes almost "good enough", but sure, brushless would be nice as well. In other words, get us brushless technology on their entire 18+18V lineup.

It may only be practical if you use a lot of warm water, but what about a heat pump driven water heater? If it is hot outside, you could even use the cold side (evaporator) as an air conditioner while heating the water. Using the heat of the house to heat the water, two birds with one stone. Low electric bill, no pollution, and extremly high efficiency. But yeah, high initial cost. The heat problem is not a problem from where I live, but it's getting a bit more common to drill 100-200m hole, and use a water to water heat pump to heat up the house and water heater. But sure, if you don't have ice cold winters (live in a warm place), you could use it like I mentioned at the top.

Got a heat gun on the welding station. And a portable one (dremel versatip, gass powered). Both works for small stuff. For larger stuff I've got a cheap china heat gun (2kW). But it's electric is awfull, and all the lights in the house starts blinking when it is in use (Sends a lot of electric noise into the system). And if I turn it off after use on max temp, the plastic will melt. (So you need to run it on half power before you turn it off) Not good at all, and should probably be replaced with something nice. The metabo one looks pretty cool. :-D http://dorchdanola-netbutik.dk/product/metabo-varmluftpistol-he-23-650-control-2300-watt-3995/

Cool. Very nice made. Could look around, look at what he did on different steps, and if I wanted, I could look at him explaining. Neat. Also, got a much better view of the toolshop, and generally just more entertaining. Ps: I recommend using 4K (2160p). Much better clarity. Even if your screen is just 1080p (since a 360 vid will strech and zoom the image). I'd love to see if they could implement the same with the sound. So you know where to sound come from (360 sound) that changes direction when you change the view. Much more realistic, and easier to follow the person.

Would not buy any precision/analyst meter from a power-tools supplier, be it red, blue or yellow team. Not only is it almost the exact opposite in the electronic area. Power-tools = is pretty inaccurate and noisy, but high in power. Even BL. Pretty crude stuff. Analytic tools = would have to be precise, neatly filtered and doesn't pull power at all. So not only do they probably lack sewere experience, they would probably need to pay some chinese no-brand name to make it for them. You could get OK/bad quality, but also shitty quality. High og decent quality is just to forget. If I want ok/bad quality chinese (not crappy/shitty) I'd buy them under UNI-T brand, or just a totally cheap No-brand name shit (for really crude measurements) and not pay extra to get some power-tool makers put their sticker on it. Off course, if you want anything decent, look towards Fluke, FLIR, Tektronix etc...

I'd love a tool like that, so I'm not trying to shame it or anything, but I do think the design/materials/pictures makes it look more like a cheap toy... XD Compared to for example: SO, I'm really starting to be a bit worried about the longvity. But then again, it might just be the looks.

Depends. There is (in my knowlege) two XXL boxes. One with: Pz1, Pz2, two VDE flat, one normal (green) medium sized flat one, one voltage tester (flat), two flat 5,5mm and 7mm yellow style (possible to use with hammer and wrench), TX15, TX20, TX25 and PH2. And another set thats missing the torx, but got two extra normal flat ones, and the PH1.

If the batteries can deliver more current (i.e higher voltage becouse of less internal resistance), the torque and power ratings will go up. And I guess in Hilti's situation, that might be the case. Its not unlikey becouse a larger battery will normally have less internal resistance. But an exception is when they just increases the cell capacity. Then all bets are off. But either way, this might very well be true.

Hmmm... Checked the connection for the capacitor, and that it is connected together with the right winding? Would belive the start winding on the stator is connected wrong. I doubt it is something to to with the rotor at least.

Double post. Delete.

Just a question: What's the difference of Bacho's orange VDE range and their red VDE range: VS Pretty sure I'm gonna supplement my two VDE Wera screwdrivers with one of thoose (60 % sale in a local store), and luckily they don't overlapp in size with the two I already got.

It's not just the weight and power that it lacks in. It feels like "old scrap", without any newer features like power controll, LED, brakes, Brushless or anything. It's just big, heavy, poor ergonomic and you know, just an old tool. But then again, it is old. So we can only hope that Makita is investing in something newer. After all, it's one of their oldest units in its class in the battery compartment. I would be conserned if they didn't know this allready. In the meantime you just gotta stick with another battery platform, or their very good compact Impact Wrench. I went with the last alternative, buying their fairly new Compact impact wrench, and don't look back. Luckily, I don't have extreme demands of power.

Just got the XL box, and with it comes two insulated ones. The Laser etched tip is just awesome. And grip is very good. Even though I think I have to get used to the special design, to really appriciate it to the fullest, it really amazes me how the fingers just seems to know where to grip. Anyways. I love em.

Look at that. At least the battery placement wasn't awkward. Lol. not.

Thought that kind of functions was meant for very small screws? ANd yours sounds pretty beefy. I.e WIth such a load, it may think that you have bored it completly into the wood. And therefore will ramp down the speed, which in turn would sacrefice a lot torque, making it even slower.

I too belive it would be possible to make. At least in the small range, to trim edges and stuff. Problem is not torque, but power (watt's). It is battery-power's weakest point. Brushless DC motors can exert a lot of torque, and use this fact to weigh up for the usually lower wattage (power). Thats probably why you rarely see producers that print or specify the power of the motor. Only torque in some cases. AC / universal motors on AC can easily and relativly cheaply be scaled up to a larger motor. They have (to a point) not the same current restrictions, and doesn't have to care about weight in the same maner (becouse it doesn't have to get a larger battery pack that weighs it down). And since a router is essensially just a huge motor with a router bit in the end, there is very little places that a battery can be placed without an awkward placement, and few other areas to shave of more weight, except the motor. And since routers doesn't need need the high torque advantage. They need a combination of mediocre torque and fairly high RPM. In other words, just a lot of watts. The highest specified motor power output in drill's is in the range of 650W, which is fairly close to a small trim router. Would be close or equal to a AC-motor with around 1000W input power. And to make matters worse, the load is almost constant in that kind of work. Not short runs and short breaks in between, which mean it's gonna drain the battery quick as hell. Just like a battery-operated vacuum. An 5 Ah 18V battery would probably be drained in practically 5-6 minuttes. Given the high power needed.