SetBuilder
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Posts posted by SetBuilder
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Does it have to be new? Every once in a while there are some nice cabinet saws on CL for a song. Every area is different though.
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1 hour ago, StrippedScrew said:
Isnt the Festool Vecturo made by Fein?
I heard its the same as the super cut, but I'm not 100% sure.
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Does anyone have the Fein 18v Multimaster? I'm thinking about selling my Festool Vecturo to buy a Fein cordless for the convenience. I'm just wondering how the two compare. I mainly use it to cut Luan and 1x material, so I don't think there is a need for the Super cut. I could just buy the Milwaukee multitool since that is the battery platform I'm already on, but I'm afraid it would feel like a toy compared to what I have been using.
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Here is a nice portable work table design I stumbled upon
https://www.versatable.co.uk/products/mfft-multi-function-folding-table
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A few more presents today.
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Early Birthday present ... A little lighter hanging on the tool belt than an Estwing.
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There is no reason to take the saw apart to replace the blade on a Grizzly track saw.
To change the blade:
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DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!
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Engage the plunge release and lower the blade down far enough to expose the arbor bolt. Push the blade lock (see Figure 9) and rotate the arbor bolt with a 5mm hex wrench until the blade locks in place.
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With your free hand, turn the arbor bolt counterclockwise with a 5mm hex wrench to loosen it, as shown in Figure 10.
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Once the arbor bolt has been loosened, use your fingers to carefully remove it, along with the arbor washer, then guide the blade down and out of the saw.
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When ready to insert a new blade, lower the saw back down so that the arbor flange is visible. Insert a new blade into the saw. Align the center of the blade over the arbor flange and let it rest there.
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Make sure grooves of arbor washer are cor- rectly lined up with the flange. Thread the arbor bolt and washer into place with your free hand. The correct order of installation is shown below in Figure 11 for your reference.
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7. Engage the blade lock to keep the arbor flange steady, and tighten the arbor bolt firmly using a 5mm hex wrench.
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Blade change is almost the same as Festool
The manual is on Grizzly's website.
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19 hours ago, khariV said:
I really wish I could use baltic birch - it's got so many more layers than the plywood I can usually get but most everything I build is for little people and I don't want to use plywood with formaldehyde in the glue. I've found one decent yard here that sells some nice maple faced plywood that's formaldehyde free but it's not BB.
Baltic birch get very expensive. I had a project at work and they had me use Baltic birch. 5 4x8 sheets was 700.00. There is a place by me that sells Baltic birch in 5x5 sheets for around 55.00
Standard birch ply that has a nice paintable surface cost me 25.00 from work and around 35 +, from a lumber yard.
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On 8/23/2017 at 10:23 PM, Conductor562 said:
Riving knife? What's that? 😂 When my dad bought a saw of any kind he instantly removed all safety appliances. I grew up thinking that dodging flying debris was all part of the gig. It's a miracle I still have 10 fingers.
But seriously, depending on the age, it may not have ever had one and if it did, it was probably built into the guard (which you're gonna hate). Just go to a batting cage, step into the fastest lane, stand 2 feet from the pitching machine, and fine tune your evasiveness. Sure, you'll take a 2X to the face every once in awhile, but that'll build character 😂
I use this set up on my Jet cabinet saw.
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Why not just pick up some birch ply? With ac plywood you only have one good side, the other will have flaws. Unless only one side will be visible ...
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If you use flush trim bits on plywood this bit is a must have. I trimmed a lot of 3/4 plywood today with this bit and it never missed a beat. If I had used a standard flush trim bit I know I would have killed 2-3 bits. This thing is a monster on a 3 1/4 HP router.
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/flush-trim-spiral-bits/products/udft5152
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It will be a while before the pro landscaper even gives a glance towards battery power tools. I recently saw a video of a Makita chainsaw with two 18v batteries cutting a 6x6 and it was laughable.
When I owned a tree svc I used to send all my saws out to be ported to get more power out of them, even the 088.
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Because no one really cares about Dewalt.... Ha Ha
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I've used Mirka ABRANET on my ETS 150 and have been very happy with it. Its a mesh type of disc, no worry about lining holes up.
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I don't know if it will work with dealt tracks or not.
https://tsoproducts.com/tso-products-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-guide-rail-square/
Another possible option. https://www.andersonplywood.com/square-for-festool-mft-square/
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4 hours ago, HiltiWpg said:
There is really no comparing the M12 Fuel to the M12 Brushed. Even thought the Fuel is heavy, the stroke power and easier cutting are worth it. I had both. The M12 is just not as effective or worthwhile.
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkAre you talking about jig saws, as far as I know milwaukee does not have a fuel jig saw?
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4 hours ago, FrosBros82 said:
@SetBuilder I actually like the M12 one better. It's not brushless, but not nearly as awkward as the M18 in my opinion.
I bought it at HD, so I may take it back and get the M12 one then.
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The M18 jig saw is the biggest disappointment for me. I picked one up recently as I wanted a cordless jig saw for convenience. That thing needs a serious updating.
I kept the box, so I may return it.
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I picked it up used, but it looks like it was barely used, I got the 55 and 108in guide rails with it.
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I ran across this today...
I also saw something recently on FB where some one said they developed all of Kreg's tools and were leaving the company to start their own line. No idea how true it was or not.
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Yup, I saw that recently and did a little research. I also decided I would rather purchase TSO version.
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Which mitre saw to get??
in Woodworking
Posted
What also scares me about the Kapex is I often see forum threads and FB posts about their motors burning up. Which then leads to long discussions about extension cord length and gauge, was it plugged into a dust extractor or not, how many amps was the breaker rated for etc.
Other people chime in and say they have been running them for 10 years with no issues, but something seems odd that there are so many threads about motors burning up.