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Posts posted by SetBuilder
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do you have a swivel socket or swivel adapter?
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I’ve had issues with them in a drill. Now I just use them in an impact.
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I'd do a google search for the particular model I'm interested in and go from there. There was a stanley 110 hand plane on CL by me that was in beautiful condition and the price seemed reasonable. But when I looked it up, it was basically junk . http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan12.htm
When I was looking at them a bit it seemed certain years and models were the most desirable. You will have to do your homework
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2 hours ago, kruton said:
For the price that is a very nice tile saw. I've been very happy with mine.
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Glad everything is working out. This is the 3rd time this month where I heard a story where the first doctor missed a life threatening issue.
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Bosch Daredevil bits are the only way to go.
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Figure out the thread size and search “threaded rod coupling nut” and it should come up on amazon.
unthread it and try a 3/8 x 16 nut. If not try metric 10mm x 150 or 125.
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Makes perfect sense. When we did a gut renovation on my current house we vaulted all the ceilings, we had a framing crew come in and they all used worm drive saws so I figured that was standard in the industry.
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On 12/17/2017 at 6:22 PM, Eric - TIA said:
That is an insane picture from the mill and an insane video. I can't believe people are driving that close. I would think the heat would be tremendous. I hope your son's asthma stays in check and hope everyone stays safe.
Eric you must have me confused with someone else. I only have a daughter and she does not have asthma.
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1 hour ago, Jronman said:
I just wish there was 2 options for each saw. A blade right and a blade left then everyone would be happy. Blade right worm drive, blade right 6in direct drive, blade left 7in direct drive.
Nah..... they should all be blade left
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18 hours ago, Framer joe said:
@builditguy...I’m a framer of custom homes over 30 yrs...you say your getting by with a 6 1/2 blade left remodeling. If you don’t need all the power the 60v flex saws will give you ,just get the new 20v circ ( but get the new one with the rafter hook).
...personally I’m right handed and love blade right, don’t know anyone that uses blade left ,but it’s a personal thing. You can’t explain to people why , they get upset. But if I showed you why a right handed guy should use blade right you’d agree
Don't the majority of framers use worm drive saws, and aren't the majority of them left blade? What have you been using through the years?
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I have not used any of them, for the work I do I carry a 10oz Stiletto hammer in my bags. With the waffle faces they are all framing hammers. The dewalt looks like the most poorly made one as the casting looks very rough to the point that it could cut you.
I just could not bring myself to buy a Friskars hammer. To me they just make middle of the road garden tools. So I would pick between the bottom three.
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I would rather have a cheaper tool and no case as I never use them. I threw out most of my plastic cases.
At home I’d rather just wrap a cord around the router or drill and put it in a drawer than waste time putting it back in a case. Same goes for work.
When I transport my tools I just use Ridgid boxes. In the wheeled bottom box I can fit my screw gun, drill, circular saw, grinder, sawzall, charger, batteries and a bunch of other tools. To me it’s just easier that way.
I never use the bags for tools.
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5 hours ago, Jronman said:
With all the advancements in battery nailers/staplers over the past few years air nailers are starting to take a backseat. What would you like to see in future air nailers, staplers, and compressors.
I have to disagree that air nailers are starting to take a back seat. They are still the standard in my industry and will be for a long time as no one is coming out with battery versions of Senco SKS, SNS, wide crown. Upholstery staplers or 23g headless pins. I have used a cordless 18 gauge and finish nailer and found them to be heavy and slow compared to an air nailer. They are convenient for a few nails here and there but I would opt for a air nailer if I have a lot of trim to put up.
As for compressors the new quieter ones are the way to go. Toolnut is now taking pre orders for the Rolair in a systainer, which the Festool fans will grab, but I am really not a fan of systainers as I do not think they are very durable.
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I just tape the cord to the hose when I have a lot of cuts to do if I'm using the vacuum.
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I'd like to take a serious look at the Shaper Origin.
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Incase anybody isn't sure what to get me for Christmas.
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This was the commute some of my co workers had.
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22 hours ago, Jronman said:
Runners up are the True Position cabinet pull/knob jig and my 2' DeWALT trigger clamps were runners up.
How much have you used the True Position jig? I picked up the kreg jig for door handles and my over all impression is Meh... I much prefer to make my own jig for each job and toss it when I'm done.
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Our trailer recently got broken into at our temporary mill set up. The thrives passed up chop saws, chain saws, hand tools etc. The only thing they took was all the heavy extension cords. I guess it’s easier to sell copper to a recycler than finding a buyer for tools.
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If you are just using it for hobby wood working I would go corded. Reason being with hobby use it should last you 15-20 years easy. Batteries won't last that long and you risk not being able to get replacements in 10 years.
Check with a Festool dealer and see if you can get the saw without the systainer and what that would save you. There was a guy by me selling Festool routers on craigslist and they were in a factory box not systainers. He said he ordered them that way to save money.
OMT outlet box cutter
in Accessories
Posted
I've seen them before and have suggested them to the set dressing guys. They have to cut outlets into the walls we build all the time. Since the walls are usually built from 3/16 luan it seems ideal for them.