Mordekyle

Here's another tip: Don't forget your adhesive gun at home like I did today. But if you do, buy the Dripless 2500(?) from Sherwin Williams for $18. It works great with Quad Max. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the 18v Dewalt caulk gun. It was very useful to blow up caulk tubes. Then it quit working. I use the heavy duty gun from HD. They quit working after a couple months, but they're only like $15. You can put Quad Max in the microwave for 30 seconds. Leaving it on the dashboard in direct sunlight helps as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update on the deck? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I almost picked one of these up when CPO tools had a 10% off sale. Unfortunately, they charge $50 extra for shipping the track. If anyone is considering buying one, you might buy the tool from Acme or CPO, but buy the track from Home Depot online- they offer free shipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Auger for fence post holes? I saw a corded hole hawg doing it on Youtube Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you were a nurse, you could use it to insert catheters. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No miters. They'll open up, bind, and twist. A double picture frame can actually look cool with butt cuts, I'll try to find a picture. Plane the high joists, check with a 78" level. If you have a joist a tad bit low, you can use two layers of peel and stick. No worries if you have to trim boards; cut all at once with a tracksaw or a "shooter board" (search it up on Youtube) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 10 is appealing to me, because my 7 1/4" 20v won't cut through a 4x4 in one pass- you have to rotate the post twice, for a total of 3 cuts, kind of a pain. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get a guillotine by Malco. Pretty much dustless. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool, fall of 2018, then? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow! ^^^^^^^ The convenience of a barrel grip coupled with the size and weight of a boat anchor! How about a barrel grip 20v? Does anyone really need 12 hours of runtime on a jigsaw? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TY, Bremon, I didn't want to fall into the pre-order trap. Mostly looking at the new nail guns coming out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've experienced the same. Higher RPM, less tendency to bog, better performance on Long rips. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do I remember correctly that people who ordered FV tools online last year had to wait longer because HD had them on the shelves before Acmetools shipped? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IDK why, but I did not see the pictures earlier. Ideally, the short ledger would be replaced with a longer joist as well. - you have to cut a corner. [emoji2] - an oscillating tool will cut it quickly and accurately. It needs to be cut at the same height as the siding. The Contractor didn't do you any favors by not leaving space for a deck board. Ideally, the J channel at the bottom of the siding would be over the top of the deck board. It would hide the edge of the first deck board. As it is, it will be next to the first deck board. But you Can still make it work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should replace the ledger with one that is the right length. To sister a ledger board would be hackery. The ledger flashing is not so much to protect the ledger as it is to protect the house it is attached to. With that in mind, you should remove and replace the ledger, ensuring there is a waterproof membrane against the house. If the GC used nails, there probably isn't. Then, You can replace and flash the top of your extended PT ledger with peel and stick waterproof membrane, ensuring water can't travel back under the ledger's existing drip flashing. Attach it with ledgerloks by fastenmaster. You can apply that same membrane to the top edge of all your framing- joists, rim, and blocking. That will add more years to your deck than 2 x 12 joists ever would. A roll of it will only set you back $25. You will need a post under the cantilevered section, but it doesn't have to be directly under the ledger. I would hide it by putting blocking between the last two joists about a foot in from the ledger/rim. Horizontal blocking under that would have the post attached underneath it. In fact, I would build that support from the top down, pouring concrete in the hole and tamping it around a post base attached to the post hanging from the blocking. Much easier. Blocking on top of your beams between the joists will make your deck bombproof. 16" OC is great for wood decking, but if you want composite, add three joists to make it 12" OC. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A 2x 8 with 2 beam lines is more than adequate. It is More adequate than a 2 x 12 joist with a beam 12' out from the wall. In fact, a 2x12 joist cantilevered over one beam is overspanned. Needs 2 beam lines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How high off the ground is it? If it's not high, it may be much easier to go with 2 x 8 joists and add one beam line. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine has done it since day one. Never lubed it. Considered hitting it with a hammer to bend the pin a bit, but didn't for fear of breaking the cast. Is there an "anti- lubricant" I could use to increase friction? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine was really hard to move- after someone borrowed it. It turns out there's a lock and a knob to move the fence. No Allen wrench needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the same problem. I did buy the saw when it first came out, maybe there was an issue with the earlier models. I keep a rubber band on mine. When I use the saw, I put the rubber band over the pin, so it doesn't slide in and lock the head. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I almost talked myself into this. Waiting, waiting, waiting for the 15 gauge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tstak? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck finding batteries Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have. I own tools. Tools don't own me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk