wingless

The listing for this desk says solid wood. It looks like solid wood, not laminated particle board. It might be possible to modify this desk to get the desired result, at a cost and at a time savings. https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/fuo/d/kennedale-writing-desk-best-offer/7058191903.html Here is additional examples... https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/fuo/d/mineral-wells-roll-top-desk/7075684880.html https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/fuo/d/burleson-solid-oak-roll-top-desk-and/7060658139.html

An examination of that fly fishing workbench also shows that there is an array of dowels, vertically oriented, arranged on a grid. A hand held drill will not permit making those holes with any accuracy. A hand held drill will have the angle on those dowels in lots of directions. A drill press is a good choice for manually making those holes, so they are all on the same vertical angle. There are tricks to get a nice grid spacing, so the placement is uniform. Something like this tool will permit creation of manually placed vertical holes. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/tls/d/dallas-8-inch-drill-press/7074614061.html Another option is a jig for an electric drill, like this one. https://www.harborfreight.com/angle-drill-guide-95622.html This guy has a few tools, router, router table, router bits, drill press and workbench. It might be possible to negotiate a volume purchase discount, if he still has the tools you need. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/tls/d/cedar-hill-router-table-table-saw-drill/7056647570.html Shop for the router bits as used parts. Good new bit sets are expensive. I got terrific used sets at a great price. In my case, almost every bit was unused.

Used tools are fine. Used wood is fine. Modification of existing stuff is fine. All save money, Harbor Freight is fine. Pine is an okay wood for many projects. Search for the desired characteristics to see what meets the needs of your project. Here are some used routers in your area. The Bosch is nice because it includes a case and guide. Ensure the router has a bit wrench. Note a router is not a good tool for free-hand, some sort of guide is required to get any sort of acceptable results. https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/tls/d/fort-worth-craftsman-router-with-table/7073011885.html https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/tls/d/rockwall-2-hp-craftsman-router-router/7076203544.html https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/tls/d/rockwall-2-hp-craftsman-router-router/7076203544.html https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/tls/d/fort-worth-craftsman-router-2hp/7059415697.html

No problem. There are many basic woodworking power tools that are essential for many projects. Determine which projects are at the top of the list, to aid prioritizing the tool selection. My preference is purchasing nice tools used, on Craig's List or on Offer Up. There is a cost savings, plus many tools are in excellent condition and complete. IMO, a good 10" table saw, with a rip fence, miter gauge and blade is an essential tool for many projects. The utility and accuracy of this tool is greatly increased when a sled is added, nice but not essential. Here is my table saw.

The "easy" way to make something like this is to start with an existing piece of furniture and modify that to get the desired result. To that end an old desk or an old bureau will have a flat top surface, drawers and slides, then the objective becomes how to modify the parts on-hand. I've had acceptable luck with Offer Up, Craig's List and even sometimes curb items. If starting w/ existing furniture, then things like drawer position and work surface height must be addressed. Things like drawer fabrication are removed. My suggestions are: to start simple; plan ahead; BE CAREFUL, things like eyeballs and fingers are important; ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION. Post images so others may assist. Good luck.

Glad to help. A hand held router with a square corner bit will make that recess. An eyeball measurement looks like a 1" diameter tool was used to make those ½" radius corners. Something like this bit. If I were to make that cut, then I would also have guides to attain the expected "rectangular" result.

Welcome to the forum. Yes, keeping tools clean and oiled helps to limit rust. Old tools are frequently "better" with the aged patina intact. One method I've had luck with not damaging surfaces is to drag a hand held utility knife blade to scrape across a surface. A kitchen metal soap pad, like SOS, also can have good results. It is amazing on aluminum parts. Post some images showing the tools and detail the desired results.

Welcome to the forum. Do you have a link or an image showing the expected outcome? Is it something like this?

The old wall lamp location had an unusual electrical box, about ½" deep, attached to the surface , w/ the wire entering from the rear and stucco around the perimeter. This very shallow box provided normal mechanical mounting screws for the lamp bracket. That unusual electrical box was retired and not used at the new lamp location. Instead a normal galvanized steel Handy box was selected, with the wire still entering from the rear, w/ a normal cable clamp. The concrete wall needed material removed for this Handy box to be inset, to just below the stucco surface. The masonry bit on this DCD996 hammer drill was used for material removal. Extra care was used at the locations above where the wire was routed through the previously-created new wire path cavity. A trench was created on the side so that the Tapcon screws that will retain this new Handy box will not damage the wire. The cavity ended up not being a perfect match to the Handy box and Quikrete 1241-56 FastSet Repair Mortar High Performance Cement was used to fill below, on the sides and on the surface to provide a perfect fit. FWIW, this is a great product that I've been using for many repairs. The green ground screw was fully inserted and the back side threads protected from mortar using blue painter's tape to permit normal operation after installation w/o the mortar making the threads difficult.. [/url]

Welcome to the forum. Sorry, but I don't know what "I've lost the jaws to my chuck" means. The chuck is part of the nose cone assembly, unscrewed by the four corner bolts and the impact connector unplugged.

These images show the dinosaur concrete drills I've been using for decades, prior to FINALLY breaking down and getting this impact drill. A mini Thor sledge hammer is used to persuade this drill to dig deeper into the concrete. The image with the wire poking out shows the part of the hole made with these drills. I got about 9" into the wall before throwing in the towel. As primitive as these look, I've made many holes with these. Other than time and effort, they work fine.

wingless' DeWALT DCK299M2 Kit - Includes 20V MAX XR DCD996 Hammer Drill, DCF887 Impact Driver, two DCB204 4Ah Battery Packs, DCB115 4A Charger; a N433408 side handle; two N268241 belt hooks w/ mounting screws and N454406 Tool Bag My tool set has not included a hammer drill. In the past I toughed it out from that deficiency, but I now needed to drill a two-foot long hole diagonally through cement, so a hammer drill was required. My front door light was above the awning, making it useless for illuminating the entry. When I removed my front door to replace the deteriorated frame I also decided to relocate the light fixture to below the awning. It was also REALLY handy when installing the ten ½' x 6" Tapcon bolts retaining my 3½" x 9" x 8' pressure treated beam to my concrete house, when I replaced the door frame bucks. A DeWALT DCK299M2 kit was purchased. This includes a 20V MAX XR DCD996 ½" hammer drill, a DCF887 impact driver, two DCB204 4Ah Lithium Ion battery packs, a DCB115 4A charger, two N268241 belt hooks w/ mounting screw and a N454406 tool bag. My tool preference is a hard case for each tool, so I also purchased a N200697 hard tool box, for just the DCD996 hammer drill, then sold the DCF887 impact driver, being a duplicate tool for me, with my existing tool shown in this wingless' DCF 887 impact driver topic. The N454406 tool bag that comes with the kit is 13" Long x 9" Wide x 10" Tall, Yellow and Black fabric w/ DeWALT Logos, two full length plastic rail feet, internal / concealed shape-retaining stiffening material, two loop fabric handles, full-length zipper closure and three exterior pockets on two sides. A ½" diameter 24" long Irwin 326017 concrete hammer bit was also purchased to make this hole. I would like to say it was like pushing a hot knife through butter, but the hole drilled easily enough and that task is completed. This DCD996 hammer drill is very similar to my DCD991 drill, just adding the hammer function, with a longer length chuck. The tool weighs 4lbs, 12oz, w/ a 4.0Ah battery pack and the included belt hook. The top/bottom balance is nice and appropriate. The tool is "made in the USA with global materials". These DCB204 20V 4.0Ah100Wh battery packs have cells made in Malaysia and assembled in Mexico. This DCB115 4.0A output charger base is made in Thailand. The tool includes a N433408 side handle. The hammer is rated at 820 UWO maximum power and 0-38,250 bpm. The rated no load speeds are 0-500/0-1,500/0-2,250 rpm in hammer mode and 0-450/0-1,300/0-2,000 rpm in drill mode. The DeWALT DCD996 has plenty of power, with plenty of torque. The three-speed transmission permits selection of the correct / maximum torque for the application. This is a great feature, enabling versatility for one drill to serve three applications, low/medium/high speed or torque. The only difference between the DCD991 drill and this DCD996 hammer drill is one more rotary position on the rotary torque adjustment collar. On the DCD996 hammer drill, the rotary adjustment collar still has the 1 through 11 clutch setting detent positions, for fastener driving and still has the drill detent position, for drilling w/o the clutch function, plus it also adds a hammer drill position. The automatic 3-function LED illumination is handy and intuitive. The low and medium intensity modes turn off automatically after 20 seconds. The high / spotlight mode runs for 20 minutes. My preference has always been for a keyed chuck, but those are also gone the way of the dinosaur. I hate when a chuck / drill bit slips and there is no way to get it any tighter. So far I like this keyless chuck. The audible / felt clicks when hand tightening appear sufficient. IMO, the instructions go waaay overboard "disconnect tool from power source when changing accessories". I put the Forward / Reverse switch in the center off position, instead of removing / replacing the battery pack whenever I need to swap a bit. The wobbly / sloppy fit between the battery pack and tool is not great, but I knew about that deficiency before purchase. IMO, DeWALT should improve this part of their design. The hard case is useful to me, so I replaced the soft bag w/ the hard case. I prefer the protection it affords and everything having a place. The cover rib contacts the tool when closing, requiring either extra force to fully close, or pulling the top handle away from the hinge so the top cover internal rib clears the tool, so it may close. (Not a major issue, but should / could be improved). The other hard case improvement I would love is for additional room within the case for accessories. I would love to also store my drill bit index, plus other drill accessories within the case. This hard case doesn't have room for other stuff. All I could fit within the case is a small 13-bit drill index case, near the charger base. It would be great if some of those cool DeWALT bit cases had a dedicated location in the drill case. The battery must be snapped into the charger, not just slid until the light changes, or it won't charge the battery pack.

Welcome to the forum. This sounds cool. Please provide images and also progress updates.

Welcome to the forum. My experience w/ Irwin tools has been positive, so that set would get serious consideration in my evaluation.

Welcome to the forum. The OP image shows a NEMA 5-20 plug, a 120VAC / 20A plug. It ONLY fits into a NEMA 5-20 receptacle, that accepts both that 20A plug and a standard NEMA 5-15 plug (grounding) or a standard NEMA 1-15 plug (non-grounding), polarized or un-polarized. If it were a 240VAC / 20A plug, then it would be a NEMA 6-20 plug. That plug has the rotation of the flat blades opposite of that shown in the OP image . A standard 120VAC / 20A breaker feeding a circuit with standard 20A receptacles is required. Assuming standard home construction, the wire feeding these receptacles is 12/2 NM-B. Please ensure the entire operation is implemented correctly and safely. As an example, I've been wiring for many decades and have seen MANY improper jobs. The frequent issues are bad or non-existing grounding, failure to properly ground metal boxes, failure to properly secure ground connections, failure to mechanically bond line and neutral connections, failure to secure the cable near the box and failure to secure the cable to the box, as some examples. Feel free to ask questions.

One night this grid appeared on the image, only at night, slightly jiggling w/ wind. It was invisible during the day. When I arrived and examined the camera I was unable to visually see anything except some spider web fragments. I vacuumed all that away and it has remained gone. The Infrared LED ring has a dull red glow at night, so perhaps the spider thought it would attract tasty bugs.

Welcome to the forum. My speculation is that usage during brake fluid changes caused an accidental fluid intrusion into the pump. The fix would be disassembly and o-ring replacement. It might be possible to match at the local hardware store. The manufacturer might offer a replacement. Mine is decades old and still pulls a vacuum.

Welcome to the forum. This is a handy tool w/ a pair of sensors to locate the center of a stud / pipe / wire accurately. Contact the manufacturer to see if this will provide the required detection. IMO, an infrared camera is probably a better option, using solar heating, night time cooling, central heating, to create an internal / external temperature differential, so the different thermal conductivity will show up for imaging. https://www.amazon.com/PerfectPrime-Infrared-Thermal-Temperature-22-1832°F/dp/B07RFS28ZH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=infrared+camera&qid=1579920629&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0NklHNUI5TzNHQlgmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNzkzNzBUMUlaUFMwSDJMTzImZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDQ0ODUzNzE4UFVSTDhGTkJNV0wmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Welcome to the forum. Nice roof ladder / stand. Looks to provide great protection for the tile / concrete roof. Does Mary Poppins know about your retirement plans?

The generator wiring has been completed. There is now an exterior power inlet box where I may connect my portable generator. The main panel has a mechanical interlock for safety and for compliance. The generator breaker is mechanically secured, for the same reasons, to create a secure main. The hold down kit includes a black molded electrical screw insulation cover. This does not remain in-place on my 30A Q230 Type QP double pole breaker, to not fall off when not held by my fingers. According to the Amazon Siemens ECMBR2 hold down kit listing, this is compatible w/ breakers 60A or larger. A telephone discussion w/ Siemens revealed that the 60A and larger breakers have a hook that grabs the cover tang for retention. The smaller amperage breakers don't have that hook. Mine will not have that screw cover installed. The mechanical interlock must be installed last because the retention tangs will make removal difficult. The ONLY way to remove / replace the panel cover is with BOTH the main breaker and the generator breaker in the OFF positions. The interlock has a detent to hold the lever up during the panel cover installation / removal process. Now the interlock permits either street power or generator power to feed the circuit panel. It is also impossible to back feed the exposed exterior power inlet box electrical prongs. The interlock makes it impossible to connect the generator output to street electricity.

Welcome to the forum. When the stationary blade is grabbed and then attempted to be twisted, does it remain straight, or is rotation possible?

Welcome to the forum. That is a scary event. Hopefully your recovery is progressing. There are no issues related to that problem on the DeWALT Safety Notices and Recalls web page. According to the MSDS the conditions to avoid are: "Avoid exposure to elevated temperatures and fire." Nothing else was located on-line about that problem. Note that Lithium Ion batteries have high energy density and all appropriate handling procedures must be followed.

My Airbnb rental property has been active for over a year. There have been fewer problem tenants than I can count on one hand. This is a beautiful home, recently remodeled, in a nice residential area and even though my neighbors are great, I’ve found I cannot count on them to contact me if things get out-of-hand. My house rules specify: “No parties or events”. IMO, the system I installed will permit me to remotely determine if the tenants / rental requires a personal visit. The solution I am currently implementing is a set of exterior cameras / microphones connected to a local online DVR. I went this route because I didn’t want to get involved with another annual subscription, instead purchasing / maintaining the equipment myself, with no ongoing fees. The Airbnb rules permit cameras / microphones, except in bedrooms or bathrooms. The rules also specify those recording devices must be disclosed. Both cameras are fully visible and both are properly fully disclosed in the listing, all in complete compliance with all the rules. In my case, one camera is pointing out at the sidewalk, leading to the front entrance, the other camera is on the garage, pointing out at the driveway. Being a self-affirmed troglodyte, I selected and installed a wired system. The DVR is connected to the router w/ a CAT5 network cable. The cameras / microphones are connected with three cables each, for BNC video, RCA audio and barrel jack 12VDC power. There are wireless options to replace each wire (except power), but that is not my way… Careful camera placement selection is critical for acceptable results. One thing that can cause problems are early morning / late afternoon direct sunlight onto the lens. That can kill the image for hours. The direct sunlight impingement can be a seasonal event, fine at one time of year and unacceptable in a different season. The camera lens must also not be illuminated by a spotlight, to also not get a usable image killed. Another important aspect is getting a great close-up face shot. Frequently cameras are placed very high, providing a great scalp view, but not so good for the face. The trade off is the camera must be high enough to be out-of-reach for easy tampering by a tall person. I like to place the camera at 8 to 9 feet above ground. The best placement for face capture is 5 feet above ground, pointing directly at the face as they walk towards the camera. An ideal camera placement has each camera including the other cameras in their field of view, to image / record any potential tampering. My preference also includes weather protection, from sun / wind / rain, to reduce deterioration over time. Wind protection is important for the microphones, to avoid rumbling from wind. The equipment must be secured. This includes physical security, having the equipment locked to be secure and inaccessible. That includes cameras, microphones, DVR, power and cabling. The other important security aspect is the network, to prevent remote access. Always, always, always change the default password(s) to restrict network access to the equipment. Anyone can examine the manufacturer’s default password and destroy the system security. The DVR system I selected is this TigerSecu H.265+ 4-Channel DVR w/ 1TB HDD. This is a complete DVR recorder system, w/o cameras, microphone(s) or camera / microphone cables or power supply. The DVR does not include, but requires, a monitor. The monitor must have either a VGA input, a HDMI input or a composite video (CVBS) input. The DVR system includes: the DVR; the external 120VAC/12VDC power supply brick (only to be used for DVR, NOT also for cameras); the hand-held IR remote control; the wired USB mouse; the User Manual; a Quick Start Guide and a CCTV warning decals sheet. The DVR is easy to setup. There is an application for iPhone or Android. There is software for PC and for Mac OS. The iPhone is VERY easy to configure. Select the QR square bar code from the DVR software menu to be displayed on the DVR monitor and scan that square bar code with the iPhone, done. The PC software setup is also easy, but I couldn’t figure it out w/o a call to the manufacturer. They provided the answer to get my remote / home PC up and running for complete system access. The manufacturer provides excellent support. My system has the standard 1TB hard drive. I have this set for continuous recording at the highest quality from two cameras w/ microphones. The system provides just over 19 days of storage, almost three weeks, before the hard drive overwrites the oldest data. That amount of storage days is perfect for my usage. The recording storage may be increased using these methods: swapping to a larger internal hard drive; lowering the recording quality from High to Medium or to Low or change from continuous recording to event recording or to scheduled recording. One camera is this 5MP dome camera. This provides excellent application flexibility. In my case I mounted it onto the vestibule ceiling, in the corner. The cabling is completely concealed. One thing I didn’t like about the camera was there is no UP mark on the sphere, requiring video observation to do a rough and fine setup. Another thing I didn’t like is the VERY FINE threads on the locking collar. I was unable to properly assemble after installation w/o first covering those threads w/ white lithium grease, then it was fine. This camera has a manual zoom recessed screw adjustment and a manual focus adjustment. The camera is delivered w/ the zoom set to show the widest image in perfect focus. If the zoom is manually adjusted, w/ a jeweler’s screwdriver, then the focus is immediately blurry, requiring also adjusting the focus adjustment to restore perfect focus. Once everything is set, the large locking collar is tightened while holding the dome camera stationary. A small set screw is tightened to retain that setting. This camera has a ring of IR LED devices surrounding the lens, to provide B&W images during night operation, automatically changing from day mode (full color), to night mode (B&W). This camera has a large circular mounting base ring. I slightly modified that base ring to increase the width and depth of an existing cable slot so that it would accept the microphone, for a secure / protected / concealed mount. The other camera is this TigerSecu 2MP stalk camera. The mount permits complete mounting / pointing flexibility. The cabling is completely concealed. This was mounted on the garage soffit. The overhang provides environmental and solar protection. The microphone is placed in a nearby through hole, also through the soffit. It is retained w/ a squirt of RTV adhesive. A pair of these microphones were used, one for each camera. These have a DC wye cable, with a plug / jack to accept power in from the DC supply and provide power out to the camera. That feature is very handy. The audio pickup is facing out the end of the bar, great for placement within a hole. Other system parts are: an old flat screen VGA monitor I had been using to collect dust; an external 120VAC/12VDC 3.33A power supply brick I also had on-hand, for the cameras, microphones and local speakers; a powered PC speaker set I had on-hand, for the audio output, not required but handy during setup; a stereo RCA audio cable set, split to run to each microphones at the far end and to the DVR audio inputs at the other end; a pair of RCA video DC plug / jack cables and this Eight way DC power plug splitter, to use one 12VDC brick for all the cameras, microphones and speakers. I modified the AC/DC brick and the eight-way splitter so the plug on the end of the brick would plug into the splitter input and so that one plug would fit into my powered speakers. My property has LED floodlights illuminating the sidewalk and part of the driveway, dusk to dawn. What I’ve noticed is that the night time camera does an excellent job imaging in the dark before the illuminated area and illuminating that lit area, but the far dark area, past the floodlights, doesn’t have great imaging. That is not a problem because that is far from the home. The DVR PC software is fine. It takes a little learning to get the hang of usage. The fast forward / play / rewind is a little clunky, but I’m thinking it is from the remote distance delay. It is very usable as-is. The DVR iPhone software is also fine. I can do what I need using the phone. The DVR permits exporting video clips by selecting a date / time range. The manufacturer recommends usage of a local USB thumb drive, but it may also work remotely over the Internet, but the amount of data is reported to be time consuming. I just leave an empty USB thumb drive in the empty USB slot for local or remote permanent storage.

The main electric circuit panel in my home is a Zinsco circuit breaker panel. Panels from Zinsco are unsafe and will be rejected during inspection when selling the home. My plan was to properly remove and replace w/ a good panel. The panel I selected is this Siemens P4080B1200ACU 200A 40 Spaces / 80 Circuits PL Load Center. This is a really nice panel. The primary feature I wanted was copper, instead of aluminum, for the power distribution. My home is on a salt water canal and I wanted the corrosion resistance. Another feature that is really handy are full length neutral bars alongside all the breaker positions. There is also a similar model w/ shorter neutral bars (and shorter ground bars) for a slightly lower cost, losing that ability for adjacent line and neutral placement. The adjacent line and neutral is very handy when using GFCI breakers. Just like most Amazon customers who wrote reviews, my panel was damaged because of horrible packaging prior to shipment, from Amazon to me. The panel was placed in a larger carton, along w/ a crumpled piece of paper, that was it. When I discussed this problem with Amazon, I instructed them to read the customer reviews on their web site and then asked them about the plethora of feedback about improper Amazon packaging. My impression is that Amazon has ZERO interest in changing their system so that parts like this arrive intact. My swap was complicated by these factors, the new panel being taller than old and rigid conduit entering from bottom, top and rear. My selection was to keep the old/new bottom and rear conduit placement constant, but having the top surface taller, causing the alteration of only one rigid conduit. That creates a complication for the hinged load center panel door, now bumping into the garage door track. I don’t yet have a solution for that problem. Another factor driving this panel selection was the ease to safely implement a generator standby interlock. Simply select the correct ampere rating on a Siemens QP two pole circuit breaker, locate at the top left positions, leave the two top right positions empty (no breakers) and use these parts. Use a Siemens ECSBPK03 generator standby power mechanical interlock and a Siemens ECMBR2 main breaker hold down kit, used to create a secure main, for a safe generator connection. For my 5,500 Watt portable Troy-Bilt generator I used this Reliance Controls Corporation NEMA L14-30 PB30 30-Amp NEMA 3R power inlet box with 10/3 (four conductor) wiring to that exterior wall box. There are different boxes available, such as for a 50A generator, but I didn’t need that larger size. One thing to note on these generator interlock parts is that removal is difficult, due to the snap retention tangs, so only install these parts when everything else is completed. The exterior front panel includes retention hook tangs, to hang the loose panel onto the load center box prior to installing the screws. This makes installation and removal easier. This Siemens load center has 40 circuit breaker positions, good for up to 80 circuits. Four are consumed when properly using the interlock for a generator transfer switch. Some modify the interlock parts, to NOT lose the two top right spots, but that is unsafe and that does not permit the required placement of the hold down kit for a secure main. My breaker choice for regular 120VAC circuits are these Siemens Q2020 Two 20-Amp single pole 120-Volt for Type QT circuit breaker locations, to get two circuits using only one space. Using these for my 120VAC circuits permitted me to fully wire the panel with each feed having its own breaker. I previously needed to double up some feeds because of insufficient breaker quantity. Now I have eight unpopulated breaker positions, good for future expansion. My breaker choice for 240VAC circuits are these Siemens Q260 60-Amp double pole for Type QP circuit breaker locations. As expected, these consume two spaces each. The panel change resulted in many of my wires being too short. I used standard wire nuts and wire to extend the 14AWG and 12AWG wires. I used these split bolt connectors for all the thicker wires. The split bolt connectors are then insulated w/ black electrical tape, after properly tightened. This was a big job. All that remains is the exterior generator hook up, updated wire labeling and the panel labeling.

Welcome to the forum. Is this a DeWALT DW682K Plate Joiner tool? Sandpaper is not a good idea. It can change the shape of the surfaces. I have had success improving corroded surfaces w/ a detached utility knife blade, hand-held w/ the sharp blade dragged (not pushed) across the surface. An SOS steel wool pad might be useful, but the water required for this cleaner is not great on the tool. Maybe it would work w/ extreme care. The Nevr-Dull magic wadding polish is very handy and might work here. Pictures would be handy, but it might not be possible for the OP to post them yet.