wingless

Welcome to the forum. fm2176 is correct. The old style brush motor tools permitted visible observation of sparks through the side openings. That Milwaukee M18 Li-Ion drill is brushless and should not spark. It is a brushless motor, so it is impossible for the brushes (that don't exist) to spark. It sounds like maybe the trigger switch is sparking.

It looks like the bits in the bottom right corner would fit that cavity. Amazon Security Bit Set

Welcome to the forum. Why wouldn't a large flat blade screwdriver work?

Welcome to the forum. It is unlikely that a window A/C will decrease the interior temperature to 45°F. A room A/C has a maximum interior / exterior differential, something in the 15-20°F range. It also has an operating temperature range. It is unlikely that the A/C manufacturer would have designed the A/C to support that requirement.

Welcome to the forum. Has the jammed fastener procedure been attempted? Remove battery, clear jammed fastener, push stall release lever back (hard) then close and latch nosepiece.

Welcome to the forum. What are the applications where the wire would benefit from being twisted as shown in the images? For example, I do plenty of home wiring, requiring twisting stripped conductors together, I am comfortable of effecting that attachment w/ a pair of needle nose pliers and a pair of pliers. I am suspecting this new tool is not appropriate for that application.

Nothing is obvious from that info. Maybe the disassembly / reassembly changed the positional relationship between the actuator parts, after having well worn into their initial positions. It looks like the side cylinder on the sliding arm is pushed by the U shaped arm, to raise the guard. If so, then maybe manually rotating that side cylinder will restore normal operation. Also, finger feeling the top surface on the U shaped arm for smoothness / burrs and polishing away if any exist. If that cylinder should rotate for normal operation then checking / fixing, if required.

Welcome to the forum. Striking out on the 137.285980 model number. Are you sure that is correct?

Welcome to the forum. Every electrical motor presents a largely inductive load to the source providing power. One characteristic of an inductive load is that the current does not want to change instantly. An inductive load does instead permit "instant" voltage changes. All that being said, it is very unusual for a motor to experience a startup current surge, even/especially a large motor. IMO, a more likely source for the problem is a defective breaker, insufficient wire gauge from the panel to the tool (in this case a 20A breaker should be 12 AWG), poor connection(s) from source to load or multiple poor connections from source to load. My first step suggestion is to swap the existing 20A breaker for a new part to see what happens. An inspection of the wiring condition wouldn't hurt either.

Great news and update. Yes the capacitor will dry out with time. My digital multimeter permits capacitance measurement. That has been handy to avoid throwing parts (money) at repairing old stuff.

Welcome to the forum. Every single DeWALT power tool I own identifies the Type on the product label, like in this finish nailer label. (I don't have that framing nailer.)

Welcome to the forum. That sounds like a great find. Why not post some images?

Welcome to the forum. The battery should be removed from service, put in a location where it cannot cause harm if it should become the source of uncontrolled ignition and it should be disposed of properly (NOT tossed into the trash).

Thanks for the feedback. LOTS of planning. I like copper. It permits dry fit assembly before soldering to get the layout correct. There is no Propex. The supply is all soldered Type L copper. The drains are all solvent bonded Schedule 40 PVC. The dangling black coil in the image is a temporary washing machine hose to complete the circuit until the tankless heater water filter may be installed under the kitchen sink. That is being installed to protect the tankless water flow sensor. Edit: That under sink filter idea was retired and the fittings for that filter were replaced w/ a straight pipe connection.

Rubble is massively heavy. If the weight exceeds the amount permitted, then they charge for the trip w/o taking any waste AND you still have a massively heavy container that needs to be lightened before they will remove, usually requiring lightening by a huge amount.

Additional images...

Our 1963 rental house had a long term tenant who revealed after leaving that the drains were always problematic. We scoped the drains and discovered that the cast iron was totally shot, w/ several holes and perforations along the length. Our plan was already a major remodel, so we removed / discarded the tile floor, removed / discarded the tub, bathroom walls and shared kitchen wall. (Rubble is a royal butt pain to discard.) The kitchen cabinets were almost new, but didn't work w/ our new layout, so they were removed and sold. A company was brought in to cut the slab, remove and replace the cast iron drain and vent stacks w/ PVC. Exterior to the house was already PVC, so they joined to that exterior PVC. The interior now has new 4" Schedule 40 drain under the slab, plus a pair of 3" vent stacks through the roof in the laundry room and in the kitchen / bathroom, upgrading from the prior 2" laundry vent stack. The future plan is to change the laundry room into a second bathroom. That will happen when we change the exterior car port into a third bedroom, over a year from now. The company that cut the slab and replaced the drain, also cut through several buried electrical conduits, killing those circuits. One reason I hate contractors is they always have their stories handy in their back pockets. The story they used here was "thank god my guy didn't get killed", when all I was thinking was how am I going to fix my wiring. Fortunately I kick butt at home wiring and was able to remove stuff that isn't required anymore and redo / upgrade the killed circuits that are being retained. There was confusion about the tub drain location. The bathroom is wider than the tub. They put the drain in the same spot as for the prior tub, but my daughter wanted it biased against the other wall, so I needed to relocate the drain position. For some reason there is LOTS of online information about plumbing, but I was unable to find anywhere what is the rough in drain distance from the wall. I assembled the drain to the tub, used my plumb bob and discovered that the vertical tub drain position is 3" from the rough wall. I used my 4½" small angle grinder w/ a masonry cutting wheel, followed by my demolition hammer to cut back the floor slab for the new tub drain location. The 2" PVC trap was solvent bonded at the correct location, working deep under the flooring. It came out great. A skim coat of repair mortar was also applied around the toilet and tub drains to permit tiling on reasonably smooth masonry instead of rough concrete and bare sand. The company didn't follow my instructions to remove / discard the under slab hot and cold copper pipes that were feeding across the kitchen to the laundry room, so I cut off those pipes flush w/ the floor. The new plan is for these to route through the attic, to permit future repair, if it is ever required. I routed the new pipes across the attic. Images show four copper pipes extending up from the slab within the wall. These are the incoming supply, cold out to the exterior wall hose bib, plus unused hot and cold to the laundry room. Only the incoming supply and the hose bib pipes are used now. This topic shows my tankless water heater installation. I put this into the closet next to the bathroom to free up space in the laundry room, for when that is changed to a full bathroom. The supply plumbing is all Type L 3/4" copper pipe w/ lead free solder + flux. That 3/4 pipe necks down to 1/2" Type L at the taps for the faucets and shower. There are anti hammer devices near all the taps. The pipes are secured along the length w/ appropriate pipe supports. The top horizontal copper pipe in the image is the water heater over pressure relief drain. That is why it slopes downhill towards the exterior wall, per the local requirements. The opening where the tub drain is connected from the kitchen was intentionally plumbed to NOT have a supply pipe crossing the opening, forcing working around the pipe when connecting the drain, maintaining a gap for my body to fit during that required access. The washing machine hose shown in the images is a temporary bypass for the future under sink water filter to keep the tankless water heater sensor wheel clean and operational. All of the hot water pipes will have snap on foam insulation along the length.

Thanks. It was a big effort by my daughter and I. We were quite the team. This house took two pallets of tile, so it was a big job for us. Good luck on your project!

This is the method I find to be effective for hand extraction.

Years ago my daughter and I installed ceramic plank tiling in our rental home. We are working on an additional rental home and I was unable to locate the pattern I used previously, that I wanted to duplicate in this application. The pattern appears random, but in reality repeats after eight courses. I was able to maintain this pattern throughout the house, by adding and subtracting as appropriate. When we reached the central hallway, off this great room, I just used tick marks to maintain the pattern. I also used blue painter's tape to keep track of the course number, 1-8, to limit my confusion. Given that this pattern has fallen off the Internet, I have created this document from my notes. Those using this pattern should reference it as "The wingless Floor Tile Pattern". For those who examine closely, I have reversed the order shown on the pattern to that shown in the images, because the installation order is changing in the house we're working on currently.

Thanks for your service!

The tool bag that came with the kit, but not used for the OMT, has been repurposed to be a general purpose tool bag, mostly used for my wiring projects.

My current project is a major remodel of a 1963 home. One interesting aspect of the construction is that the walls and ceilings are constructed w/ panels similar to but different from sheetrock. Covering that "sheetrock" is about ¼" of plaster. All of the corners have a galvanized metal wire screen under the plaster, with about a ¼" square grid pattern. A large corner section of that ceiling needed to be removed for parts of the remodel. The OMT was used to cut through the plaster, sheetrock and wire screen. The material was very abrasive, removing the blade teeth. but the blade continued cutting through the material w/o issue. Both the front edge (that used to have teeth) and the side edge were effective at cutting.

Thanks. Every single year this New England lawn would burn all summer long. It was impossible to dump enough water to NOT burn. Plus it had lots / many weeds. After this it always looked great. It was lots of work to deposit 50 large bags of peat moss twice a year. After a while the top of my soil was black and rich, before I got to the dirt colored stuff.

Welcome to the forum. My best experience is hand extraction, yanking them out by the roots. Even the most sturdy plant does not factor removal from the ground into their planned life cycle. There were years where I paid chemical guys to get a better lawn, with the "it will be better next year" response, before I took over myself, yanked the weeds, switched to Starter Fertilizer, applied a skim coat of peat moss twice per year and quickly attained the elusive $1M lawn that I had been denied.