wingless

Welcome to the forum. Don't leave your tools out in the rain... The cordless Bosch GSB drill looks to be a nice tool. My guess is one of the circuit boards now has a failed component, as-shown in this parts listing. If ordering replacement parts, then ensure the model and version numbers are correct. Use a meter to verify power in when the trigger is squeezed and no power out.

@paulengr is correct. The local pool store sells products at retail prices. While it is possible the clerk is clueless, in my southern Florida area, more than 50% of the homes have in-ground pools and my experience is that all the local pool stores have provided me invaluable information, with all clerks having great hands-on experience. I am not a chemist (I don't even play one on TV). When I started, pool ownership / maintenance / repair was totally new to me. While reading on-line is a great way to glean information, direct solicitation from experienced technicians cannot be beat. I would have ZERO hesitation asking paulengr about ANY of my pool problems or questions. My new pool ownership included years of pool store visits for part of the support, including purchasing their expensive chemicals. The local pool stores sell jugs and refills of liquid chlorine, that can be a useful part of pool maintenance.

Welcome to the forum. Welcome to the joy of pool ownership... Where in the country is the pool located? Yes, garden hose water needs chemicals right off the bat, then chemicals on an ongoing basis. There are things like: muriatic acid (very dangerous, wear eye, skin and lung protection); stabilizer; oxidizer; pH up; pH down and iron remover, plus many more. The iron remover is required during filling to eliminate the possibility of permanent rust staining from the tap water iron. Take a deep water sample, arm length in the deep end, bring it to the local pool store. They will do a free analysis and sell you the correct chemicals. Know the water volume. Also get some test strips to make ongoing analysis easy. On one pool I have a salt system. It makes care (and chemical cost) MUCH easier. On my other pool I float tablets, higher chemical cost and more effort. Both of my in-ground pools are uncovered, southern Florida. One is heated, maintained at 80°F. The pool heater runs about 6-8 hours to restore / maintain the temperature in a ~70°F ambient temperature. I run during daylight hours to use the most solar energy possible. Both require periodic effort to remove vegetation that falls into the water. I have an automatic Zodiac pool vacuum chug chugging along in one, I use a manual wand vacuum in the other. Both require weekly filter and leaf catcher bucket cleaning. Yes, a cover will help with attaining / maintaining good water temperature. A pool heater will ensure that the desired water temperature is provided. My Build Right BR115XW pool heater is quiet and efficient, w/ a 5 year warranty and a no-rust plastic cabinet. It provides 117K BTU at 80°F ambient air temperature and 70K BTU at 50°F ambient. I put a locking cover on this heater so the AirBnB tenants don't mess w/ the settings. Also, matching padlocks on the main electrical controls...

My southern Florida home requires standby power generation, for living after storms. My long-term solution was the 7kW Westerbeke generator on my boat, parked next to the house on the canal, using my 100' 12AWG extension cords. Not elegant, but effective. Note that my Westerbeke 7.0 BCGB generator is 1,800 RPM, not the Troy-Bilt 3,600 rpm. That half speed is much quieter and is a better long-term operation solution, especially on a boat where there is not distance and multiple walls available to place between the generator and the living space. Now that I am replacing my Zinsco main circuit breaker panel, I decided to include a transfer switch, w/ generator feed, to make powering my house much easier. This Troy-Bilt 5500 watt model 030245 portable generator wired to a 30A transfer switch on my new Siemens panel is my current solution to safely providing emergency power. There will be a 30A exterior power inlet that will be connected to the generator's twist lock NEMA L14-30 receptacle, using a 4-conductor flexible power cord. This 3.600 rpm generator has: 5,000 watt continuous capacity; 8,550 starting capacity; 46.2 amps at 120 VAC or 23.1 amps at 240 VAC capacity and 5 gallons of gasoline capacity. This includes a 25' dual 20A 120 VAC Briggs & Stratton cordset, P/N 197474, providing four pigtail receptacles, two on each leg. The generator controls are: engine on/off; carburetor choke; fuel valve open / closed; circuit breaker on/off switch and a recoil pull start. There is also panel illumination when running, pointing at the receptacles and circuit breaker. All the receptacles have a floppy rubber weather cover. The circuit breaker has a see through / push through rubber cover. The generator has a gravity-stored hoop handle and solid rubber knobby tires / plastic wheels for movement. The fuel cap has an integrated mechanical fuel gauge. This was a lightly-used, complete and most-importantly indoor-stored generator. Many users selling this generator store them outdoors and they end up w/ LOTS of surface corrosion. All mine needed was cleaning and polishing for the exterior to look brand new. The carburetor on mine was clogged, so I disassembled and cleaned the interior fuel passages. Now it is running before the first cord pull. Now I run the carburetor dry, then disconnect the fuel hose and drain the tank dry after each usage. This should permit easy starting w/ fresh gasoline and a clean carburetor. On mine, I modified the electric box to add a totalizing hour meter. I wired the meter to be powered whenever the generator is running, on the generator side of the circuit breaker on/off switch. That electric box interior volume usage only permitted placement of the hour meter at the less-exposed surface, making observation of the display possible, only by bending over and looking up at the interior of the generator. I selected a panel-mount hour meter, used a utility knife to cut the rectangle in the plastic box, used UL-rated wiring and crimped Faston connectors w/ stacking connectors to effect the connections. At least now I can track generator usage, for gasoline consumption and oil changes. So, when I need to use this, fill with gasoline, wheel to the side of my house, plug in the cordset, fire up the generator, then flip the main panel transfer switch, after selecting the circuits that will be powered and those that won't be energized.

This Fiskars 18" StaySharp mower has been used multiple times. My satisfaction remains very high with this machine. The powder-coated steel is remaining very glossy, looking to provide terrific long-term protection.

Welcome to the forum. The camera requires power. The Nest cameras use wired power and secure Wi-Fi data exchange. They are a nice solution. The Nest cameras require an annual data subscription to be useful, $50/yr for first camera, less for additional cameras. The other solutions to avoid data charges is to add a local data logger w/ hard drive to capture the A/V data for later usage. THE MOST OVERLOOKED aspects are camera placement, illumination, zoom, solar effects and maintenance. A useful face image is frequently very important. Do a temporary placement to check the image over 24 hours. It is also useful to examine over 365 days to check effect of solar inclination. Lenses get dirty and should be kept clean.

Thanks for joining the forum to begin highlighting our deficiencies. Please continue forward with sharing your enlightened perspective on some of the other horrible forum information. There is NO WAY one single member will ever improve without the clarity presented in your introductory post.

Click save... Welcome to the forum. Does the tool have a bubble level on the opposite side of the knob? It looks to be a tool to measure the angle of a surface compared to level. Very nice old tool. Very nice image. IMO, don't restore, keep as-is. Maybe a light oil to maintain condition. The patina is part of the charm. Some of my favorite tools belonged to my grandfather, then my father and are in old condition.

The linked Professional Saw Cabinet may be selected as either 1.75 hp / 110VAC or as 3 hp 230VAC.

You're welcome. Please keep the topic status current and please post images of the tool.

Welcome to the forum. The Sawstop table saw appears infrequently on my local Craig's List and disappears quickly. It is likely that the Sawstop will need to be specified and purchased as a new saw instead of used. There are many useful configuration options to tailor this tool for your usage. IMO the Professional Cabinet Saw would be great for that application. A spare brake cartridge (and spare blade) would be useful to keep on-hand to eliminate down time if it ever fires. The existing tool may be sold on Craig's List or on Offer Up.

Welcome to the forum. According to the instructions on page 6 and 7, expose the shaft nuts on both ends of the tool. Hold the opposite end and loosen the desired end.

The topic counters are now working! Good job!

Welcome to the forum. My Irwin Hanson 11119 extractor w/ left hand Cobalt drill bits works really well on hard fasteners.

The problem started w/ all new topics created Thursday and later.

It looks like the topic view counter is not working on all new topics. All new topics have 0 views.

Thanks for the information and the image. The building wiring and the compressor wiring sound fine. The compressor off voltage is a little high, but not a problem. The initial voltage sag and the operational voltage are fine. The 15 VAC difference between compressor off and running is concerning, but it is probably from the excessive current. My guess is the system has excessive rotational resistance, causing the motor to work REALLY hard. A good starting point is to measure the operational motor shaft RPM. It should be 1,725. If less that also points at excessive resistance. Disconnect the belt and spin the motor shaft by hand. It should spin freely. Try the same on the compressor. It should not feel gritty. It should be hard to impossible to turn by hand. That 10 hp compressor might have a vent to atmosphere valve that would permit feeling the compressor crankshaft when turning by hand. How is the visual appearance of compressor oil? Is the compressor air filter clean? Does the operational current drop when running w/o the air cleaner?

For some reason the topic view counter in the Woodworking forum is not incrementing on my teak table topic. Hopefully this weirdness is not indicative of a larger problem.

Welcome to the forum. When the compressor is not running, what is the measured voltage at the plug? Same question for when running? What are the motor nameplate markings?

That part may be purchased from an auto recycle center (junk yard).

Welcome to the forum. Back to basics, has the battery been verified to be good in a different tool? Has a working battery been tried in this tool? The $153 motor and switch assembly is the guts of the tool. If that cannot be fixed then the tool is scrap.

Wow! Thanks for sharing. The three reels are each powered by their own motors. Each motor has a small sprocket and each reel has a large sprocket. Each reel looks to be spinning fast. The left mower, right rear wheel looks to be the only driven wheel. The cut height looks to be fixed, not adjustable. That modification is a detraction from one of the features of the Fiskars mower, the really quiet operation. It doesn’t take long after starting to mow to notice how quiet cutting the lawn is when using this machine. Not so with the modification.

The pool in my south Florida home developed an underground plumbing leak on the skimmer return line. The normal repair for that problem is to smash the patio tile around the skimmer, break the concrete and dig down to expose then repair the problem. The issue preventing me from implementing that repair method is I have zero matching patio tiles and none similar exist in the local stores. The repair method I selected instead is to dig down in the nearby flower bed, then tunnel under the concrete patio, until the skimmer was reached for access. The BIG problem w/ that method is that EVERY BIT of sandy soil in southern Florida is a congested mass of crisscrossing roots. I needed to yank, cut, saw over the entire tunnel to clear out the path. My screen box was used to sift out the rocks and roots so that the replacement soil could be packed back into place. I filled trash barrels w/ the sifted soil. I ended up w/ 150 gallons of soil! The problem was caused by soil settling and the skimmer / patio not budging. The 90° fitting was cracked where the sinking plumbing attempted to increase the angle. Normal Schedule 40 plumbing fittings and pipe were used to correct the leak, after cutting off the broken parts. Now my pool holds the water level and the automatic pool vacuum "robot" is again chug chugging along, keeping my pool nice and clean.

The Fiskars 18" StaySharp Max Reel Mower manual is attached. It includes setup, operation, maintenance, adjustment and cleaning. Fiskars StaySharp Max 18in Model 6201 83001819r4 Manual.pdf

My Airbnb rental property has a small lawn and I’ve been toting my Snapper 21" Self-Propelled Walk Behind Mower back and forth between home and the rental to care for both properties. My choice to ease that effort was to purchase a Fiskars 18" StaySharp Max Reel Mower to keep on-site at that property. There are lots of really nice features for this mower. The mower is easy to use, easy to setup and does a great job cutting the lawn. The mower arrives w/ the deck and blade fully assembled and fully adjusted. The large push handle must be assembled, requiring a single 7/16” wrench. The blade height knob is easy to screw in-place w/o tools. The cut height is adjustable from 1” to 4” in ½" increments by moving a single selector lever. The mower has a heavy-duty spring to hold the mower mass, so the reel doesn't drop when releasing the existing setting. The mower must be pushed down when changing height. Note the mower will not cut grass taller than 6”, so this isn’t the machine for those w/ overgrown lawns. My experience is a rogue tall growth may be cut w/ a back and forth motion, but not efficient for a tall lawn. The wheels are inboard of the reel blades. Alignment onto the last wheel tracks results in a slight overlap and no missed uncut grass. The rear wheels are really cool. They freewheel in reverse, but independently drive when in forward. Either wheel going forward causes the reel to spin. Each rear wheel has a one-way clutch in the hub to rotate the rear axle. The rear axle has a large 26 tooth chain sprocket. The reel has a small 8 tooth chain sprocket. There is a 3¼:1 ratio between the sprockets, making the reel spin much faster than the wheels. These sprockets are connected w/ a drive chain, w/ a master link and a spring tension saddle. The drive system permits the reel inertia to continue rotating, even after the rear wheels stop driving. The five blade 18” wide reel is designed to not contact the stationary blade, decreasing resistance, decreasing cutting effort. It provides effortless cuts on difficult grass. The machine has a movable discharge chute, to dump clippings forward or backwards. No tool is required to change the discharge, just pull or push on the chute, until stopped by the detent. There is an optional bag, that grabs onto the front. I don’t have and I don’t need that open top bag. The handle has four adjustment positions. It is “easy” and tool-free to change the position. Just remove the two clevis pin clips retaining the handle, move the handle to the left, select the new hole, move selected holes onto the right and left stubs and replace the clevis pin clips. The handle has padded foam grips. The only detractor I’ve found on this machine is that the handle height changes when the deck height changes. The handle is pushed forward, just past vertical, when storing the machine between uses. The machine is easy to carry. There is a carry handle on the front, in-front of the reel and the solid rear axle is perfect for lifting / carrying the machine. The machine has adjustments if the cutting ever goes awry. The stationary blade may be moved up / down, changing the gap to the rotating reel. The stationary blade may be moved front / back, changing the angle between the stationary and rotating parts. The manual specifies lubrication points to maintain proper operation, basically all the moving parts. The manual specifies no garden hose cleaning. I find wiping down w/ an oily rag keeps it clean and rust free. The only bare steel are the bare edges of the reel. The manufacturer provides a three year limited warranty against defects in materials and workmanship under normal usage. Discharge Clippings Forward Discharge Clippings Rearward 1” Minimum and 4” Maximum Cut Heights Bottom Discharge Chute Detents Handle Adjustment and Storage Chain Guard and Chain Stationary Blade Up / Down Adjustment Optional Grass Catcher Bag