wingless

The Ridgid R4511 has a 4" dust collection port, as part of the bottom dust tray, on the bottom rear of the tool. The PO had modified the tool to seal up many of the exterior openings, in an attempt to improve dust collection / containment. One of those prior modifications was blocking the large opening on the top of the side door, adjacent to the bottom of the bed. The dust collection is being examined by me. Part of that examination is looking at internal airflow and internal dust accumulation patterns. One thing I noticed is very little internal accumulation near the arc shaped opening on the front panel, near the tilt pointer. Another is, greater internal dust accumulation at the corners, where lesser airflow exists. The tool will be used w/o the large opening on top of the side door blocked, instead operated w/ that unobstructed to determine if dust collection is improved by the air cross flow pattern restored.

The saw includes two brackets on the lower left side of the cabinet for hanging the rip fence, the sliding miter gauge and the throat plate. The saw also includes a hook, for hanging the riving knife (missing the blade guard) and the two blade wrenches. The ½" Delrin side plates added to the rip fence sides increased the width of that part making the brackets ineffective to hang all the parts concurrently. The PO included a shelf that rested / attached to those brackets, but I didn't like that solution. My solution was instead to place a wood spacer between those brackets and the cabinet. Now those brackets again work as intended.

The PO modified the saw to seal the box gaps to improve dust collection. One of the modifications was an adhesive foam strip weatherstrip, on the large door, between the saw stand box and the door. That would have been fine if the PO also replaced the closure screws w/ a longer screw, to account for the additional thickness added by the foam. Instead the original screw, which was now too short, was just pushed harder and screwed to grab enough threads, breaking the plastic. Fortunately that recently-added adhesive foam strip retained the broken parts, permitting me to effect a good repair. That plastic side door was repaired using West System 105 Epoxy Resin, West System 206 Slow Hardener and Whitaker Oil Company 3/4 oz Fiberglass Mat. I also used Evercoat black color agent to tint the epoxy color, from clear to black. https://www.westsystem.com/the-105-system/epoxy-resins-hardeners/ https://www.whitakeroil.com/ http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/base-part/100503/us/ This West System epoxy is great. I've used this for many projects. This gets mixed as five parts resin to one part hardener, either by mass or volume. I use my digital scale, tare the cup, add the resin, divide the mass by five, multiply by six, then drip in hardener until the scale shows the correct mass. Easy. The parts clean up great w/ acetone. The part was masked off to limit the repair area. That included a small tape wad in the hole. Layers of epoxy and layers of fiberglass were applied to the broken area, using a disposable paint brush to ensure the fiberglass was fully wetted and bubbles worked out. After about an hour, before the epoxy was fully hard, but while it had stopped running, the tape was removed and any leakage was scraped away. The next day, after the epoxy hardened, the edge was sanded smooth and the hole drilled open. The screws were replaced w/ longer screws, I used M5-0.8x15 black pan head screws. Those now fit fine. The repair worked out great. The screwed-closed door seals fine without the foam weatherstripping, added by the PO, that I removed. The gap is not air tight, but the air leakage is minimal.

This image shows the eccentric, where the gear and collar are coaxial w/ the shaft, but the eccentric nut / sleeve has an offset internal shaft bore. This shows how rotating the nut/eccentric will change the spacing between the pinion gear and the rack gear. On mine, it took a breaker bar, a 14mm crowfoot wrench and massive force to break the 9-year stationary eccentric free. Once free, a regular combination wrench permitted normal rotation for the proper setting. !!! Please remember to block the motor during this adjustment so it doesn't fall suddenly if the gears disengage !!!

The new-to-me tool had an issue where I was unable to fully tilt 45° the blade because the rack and pinion tilt mechanism gear set would skip a gear tooth, just prior to reaching that tilt. The tool was cleaned and lubricated, but that didn't resolve the problem. The solution was determined and implemented. The tool has an eccentric sleeve, P/N 089037005154, item 73 on Parts List Figure B. That sleeve has an exposed 14mm hex head, like a nut, shown in the image adjacent to the block. The rotation of that sleeve brings the worm gear shaft closer or further to the pinion gear. (Note that I supported the heavy motor mass during this adjustment so the motor wouldn't / couldn't suddenly swing if the gears disengaged.) When I rotated the sleeve to bring the pinion gear closer to the rack gear this restored normal full-swing operation of the tilt mechanism.

Welcome to the forum. Sorry, but I don't understand the question. The 4x21 belt is standard. How does the 3/4" mentioned factor into the question? It is possible to DIY a belt sander seam. There are many online topics showing how.

My recent purchase of a used Ryobi RTS10G 10" table saw left me disappointed with that tool. I really liked the features, portability, new condition and complete set of accessories, but I was disappointed w/ the bed not being flat, so I sold that tool and purchased this Ridgid saw as my replacement. The Ridgid R4511 granite top 10" table saw is a very nice tool. These were sold for a very short time at Home Depot in early 2009. Mine is a very nice example that I purchased used. The 1-3/4" thick granite top is a terrific feature. The top has three sections, there is a center part, plus two side wings. The tool includes a pair of heavy-duty support rails embedded into both sides of the top to hold each side wing, that also include adjustment set screws to get the side wings flush and coplanar to the center panel. My experience was that setup was straightforward, taking a reasonable amount of time, now when I slide a sharp corner block across the seams there isn't any edge felt, plus a straight edge across the surfaces show them to be coplanar. The granite is very smooth and slippery, making usage terrific. Everything about this tool is heavy duty. The tool mass is well north of 400 lbs. The granite top is the obvious weight contributor. Looking "behind the curtains" reveals that the mechanism is made of large machined cast iron sections. That construction contributes to the mass, strength and stability of the tool. The rip fence is great, with sturdy / large front + rear mounts, hook the rear tab under the rear angle iron, then lower the front onto the two-piece front box rail. The sliding miter gauge has a large / sturdy surface for pushing the part and stops at 90°, ±45°, with fine-tune adjustment screws for each. The large 3,450 rpm, 1½hp TEFC induction motor may be wired for 120VAC / 13A or 240VAC / 6.7A. The 5/8" arbor blade is belt-driven from the motor. The saw has 3-1/8" at 90° cut depth and 2¼" at 45° cut depth capacities. The rip capacity is 30" to right of blade and 20" to left of blade. One thing I found very surprising was the low / quiet noise from operating the saw. All my experience w/ portable direct-drive table saws were loud, this is quiet. Setting up for ultimate accuracy is "easy". When I got the saw, the sliding miter gauge slots were almost perfectly parallel to the blade. I loosened the top, slightly rotated, then tightened, now it's perfect. The 90° and 45° blade angle stops were almost exactly set correctly. When I went to adjust one set screw, it wouldn't budge. I eventually removed the cylindrical steel threaded insert from the granite top to discover that there was an excessive amount of thread locker applied to the screw, causing it to bind. The insert was super glued back in-place, the thread locker cleaned and now all is good again. The sliding miter gauge has side-to-side set screws that get a terrific fit in the bed slots. After a small amount of tweaking this now slides the entire length w/ no slop. There is a voluntary CPSC recall on the early serial number saws because the motor shaft would fail when using a dado blade. Mine is a later serial number that isn't affected. https://cdn2.ridgid.com/resources/media?countrycode=US&key=7cccef80-9c77-460f-86c2-3c972aac5d9e&languagecode=en&type=document The tool has an integrated dust extraction plenum w/ a 4" suction port. The tool has a Herc-U-Lift caster system for easy caster deployment for single-person tool movement, followed by easy caster retraction for returning to tool foot support. My tool includes a nice custom-made oak zero-clearance throat plate blade insert, a custom-made low-profile riving knife and ½" thick Delrin panels added onto both sides of the rip fence. My tool also has a nice custom-made side shelf, that is handy to hold the rip fence. The rip fence doesn't fit into the OEM side support brackets because the ½" Delrin side panels were attached. My tool has the 2.3mm (0.090") riving knife w/ spring-loaded anti kickback pawls, but is missing the clear plastic blade guard. That missing / discontinued part is not available to purchase. Granite Joints Prior to Adjustment

Welcome to the forum. According to the Service Parts List effective date, the serial number range starting with 907D started in November 2005. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/support/manuals-and-downloads?search=6154-20 If made in another country, then that nameplate label should have the country of origin listed.

Note, those are forbidden images.

There have been some general (non-precision) cuts made with the saw. My expectation is that larger sections will contact the various high spots to permit a decent cut and that cutting smaller pieces will have greater difficulty remaining true. This used saw did not come with the general-purpose blade and instead came with the plywood blade shown. I already have a decent selection of blades for various applications.

That is clever, no tool to obstruct the work surface, when holding the tool on the opposite side of the work surface.

There are several listings on eBay for that Evercharge bracket.

Welcome to the forum. My North Star pressure washer has been an outstanding tool for over a dozen years.. Mine has the Cat Pumps 66DX35G11 3.5gpm 4,000psi pump and the Honda GX390 13hp engine. The Cat Pumps 7632 rotating nozzle is my go-to choice for surface cleaning. I keep an aerosol can of WD-40 w/ straw nozzle handy in-case the nozzle decides to not rotate. The only "issue" is that my projects frequently require two full (1.7 gallons) tanks of fuel, requiring stopping to refill. The system is provided with a Mi-T-M 22-0005 thermal relief valve that will open / leak for pump protection if extended full throttle operation w/o water flow causes the pump water temperature to rise, requiring valve replacement. On mine, the cart wheel hubs failed, requiring replacement, a butt pain because only the OEM parts would fit. The cost was not horrible. Now it again rolls normally. This was recently used on an unusual project. My seawall had oysters attached below the waterline. I had been unable to scrape these off using mechanical tools. The pressure washer blasted the seawall clean, both above and below the waterline. (Boy was I a very dirty mess afterwards). Both the engine and the pump get regular oil changes using the recommended fluids. Note, always wear eye protection.

Welcome to the forum. It looks like just pick a location and use appropriate fasteners for the surface. Note, provide an image if the one I located isn't correct.

The left hand drill bits included with this kit provided quick resolution to a fastener problem. There were three stuck Phillips head pan head screws where the top rusted away and were impossible to remove. The left hand drill bit was drilled into the screw head depression that formerly was a Phillips head slot to accept the Phillips head screwdriver. The Cobalt bit dug in quickly. After drilling into the screw a short distance, the drill angle was changed slightly and the fastener unscrewed w/o any problem. These steps / results were repeated on all three fasteners. Problem solved.

Why not get rid of the older tools on eBay, Craig's List and Offer Up, then get new tools w/ or w/o the 20V MAX XR batteries? When I sell, I fully document any / every issue that exists, w/ photos and text.

Welcome to the forum. If a corded tool is an option, then the DWE4214 4½" small angle grinder that I use is a real workhorse that I have zero reservation recommending. Note that the DCG414B 4½" / 6" 9,000 rpm grinder is a 60V FLEXVOLT tool, so a complete kit would be required. The DCG405FN 125mm grinder is a ROW tool that may be difficult to find in the US, but your 18V comment indicates that might not be an issue. My kit includes all the available cutting, grinding and surface conditioning discs / wheels / guards for maximum flexibility on ferrous metal, aluminum, stainless, masonry, porcelain, ceramic, marble and granite.

The US catalog and web site shows the 18V XRP lithium ion tools, in-addition to the 20V MAX XR lithium ion tools. The linked catalogs from France and Portugal only show the latest XR tools, 20V MAX XR in US and 18V XR in ROW. The absence of consumer confusion and impossible marketing permits the ROW tools to be marked as 18V. The US tools require differentiation so consumers know different products.

Thanks for the info. It is too bad for DeWALT that they must build / distribute / inventory two almost identical parts, different only by label and model number, only because of marketing considerations. Those complications increase cost / reduce profit. Those company costs ripple down to impact consumers.

Thanks for the document link. It is surprising to me that the French product line is pushing the 18V XR tools, while in the US we have the 20V MAX XR tools. It should be possible for DeWALT to make ONE battery powered tool, ONE battery pack for each Ah rating, offered worldwide, but make country-specific charging stations.

Welcome to the forum. If the custom case can't be located, then Kaisen foam permits fabrication of a custom case for the tool. My topic below shows that foam cutout for my DeWALT tool. http://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14455-wingless-dcs355d1-20v-max-xr-oscillating-saw-kit/

Why not just post an image(s) of the brochure?

Welcome to the forum. From the DWS780 Instruction Manual, page 14: "All bearings are sealed. They are lubricated for life and need no further maintenance." Here is the manual: https://servicenet.dewalt.com/documents/English/Instruction Manual/N466020,DWS780.pdf#_ga=2.67834257.1035252051.1547002173-1732361236.1545424480

Ryobi RTS10G 10" 15A Table Saw The motor on my 30-year old Shopcraft T6780-21P 10" table saw suddenly gave up the ghost. This was an excellent and complete tool, w/ all the guards, guides and a nice cast / machined aluminum deck, plus a custom / portable stand. It wasn't the switch or the brushes, both tested great, the motor is gone. A replacement saw was sought that wouldn't break the bank. This lightly used Ryobi RTS10G was discovered (10 minutes after it was posted). I scooped it up. My replacement saw needed to be complete. I am sharing this tool with my daughter, so I wanted / needed one with all the guards. That requirement eliminated many of the used tools. This saw has lots of nice features. All of the setup changes (except blade swap) may be performed tool-free. The blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls may be detached / replaced w/o tools. The riving knife may be extended / retracted tool-free. The throat plate is removed / replaced w/o tools. The push stick has an integrated mount at the side of bed. The stand is very sturdy and detaches easily when required w/ four corner screws. This saw has a formed / welded steel table. The surface is not flat and instead has curved contours from the forming operations. IMO, that is the biggest detraction from the saw. We'll see how this deficiency portends over my long-term usage of the saw.

The tool has both a variable speed trigger switch, plus the three-position mode switch.