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NicholasShetley

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Posts posted by NicholasShetley

  1. The engine made 380 hp and 380 ft lbs of torque. The torque is so low because the pull starts at 3000 rpm. The torque was in the downward trend by then. A couple of valves were adjusted too tight and the balancer rubbed the timing cover but other than that it ran great. It also ran 75-80 lbs of oil pressure which is great. I will try and put the video of one of the pulls on here tomorrow. The engine needs a bigger carb and a spacer to raise the carb. The teacher we could see 400 hp with that. We will try it Monday and see.

  2. We now have the engine primed and it showed a whopping 70 lbs of oil pressure which is excellent. We did go with a high volume oil pump since the engine is more performance oriented. We should have it ready for the dyno by tomorrow. They were testing out the dyno this afternoon since you could hear the high performance class making some pulls with an engine laying around the shop. What do you guys think the engine will make for horsepower.

  3. We finally have the bottom end together and everything fits like a glove. We now have the heads on and the valves adjusted. So far everything is looking good and working out. We should prime the engine tomorrow and see what the oil pressure will be. Hopefully it will be done by the end of the week.

    • Like 1
  4. I can't help you with the ball joints as I have never messed with them but you will most likely need a seal puller for the rear end. What my dad usually does with rear end bearings is cut the outer portion with a chisel and then the rollers pop out and then he chisels the inner portion out. I don't know if you can do that with your truck but if not you can use a slide hammer. A http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00061SGFO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417580298&sr=8-1π=AC_SX200_QL40bearing and seal installer tool will definitely help. Here is an astro pneumatic set of drivers. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00061SGFO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417580298&sr=8-1π=AC_SX200_QL40

    OTC slide hammer kit http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015DMNIS/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=71LkifY7GkL._SY200_QL15_&slTrans=0&ref=nsDpPl

    Hope this helps.

  5. It is a steal not a deal. It would be a great deal with one of the tools. His old 18v dewalt was as large as his 1/2 electric drill and weighed just as much. The batteries finally bit the dust. The new lithium a are leaps and bounds better. I think for him the size and weight would be the main thing. The impact would be great since he loved my craftsman c3 3/8 impact.

  6. We now have the block back from the machine shop. The crankshaft is in the engine along with new ARP main studs. The main bearings had .002 inches of clearance which is perfect. The rods and pistons are also ready to go in other than the rings. After that it should be fairly easy as the rest should just bolt together other than degreeing the camshaft and adjusting the valves. When things get slow in the class, such as when the block was being machined, the teacher will have us do customer work. The work we have done was fixing a misfire on the teachers mothers vehicle and change the tranny fluid. We have also redone four sets of small block chevy heads. We put new guides in two and all four had the valves ground and seats ground as well. I doubt many 18 year olds can say they have done that.

    • Like 1
  7. I have seen them where the trailer has a battery but is connected to the truck so it gets charged when the vehicle runs. There was also some way they had it where the trailer battery wouldn't run down the truck battery. It seemed pretty cool. I can look into that if you want.

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