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glass

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Everything posted by glass

  1. The most important thing is the blade is parellel or in perfect alignment with the slides. There is a check for this. Set up the saw so it makes perfect 90degree cuts. Take a 14" wide board and clamp it. Pull saw head to full extension and make a plung cut and pull head up and make a plunge cut with the head pushed all the way back. The cuts with a square should line up. The blade being to the left or right should only affect how much you have to pitch or turn the miter detente plate as it does have some fore and aft mo ability. The blade could be so far to the left or right that you are unable to adjust the detente plate enough.
  2. The one I tried out had much smoother slides. Different parts on parts diagram and a confirmed change by a dewalt technician. Dewalt updates its tools with type changes quite often. I would imagine they updated because so many complained of sticky slides on the dws780 type 1. I find the slides on the type awful.
  3. Sorry my tool suppliers (local) stopped selling the makita for awhile because of all the issues. Like I said dig deeper these saws have some serious issues. The fences have all been changed redesigned by Makita along with the upper slide. They need to eliminate the double sliding fences. The bevel pin that sets the 22.5 and 33.9 jams often and bends, don't believe me call a Makita service center. My made in 1995 ls1211 has zero flex gobs of power no blade deflection is compact weighed 51 lbs and is simple and made to last.
  4. I have noticed a big difference in the slides between type 1 or type 20. The parts diagram confirm a difference. Type 20 is made in Taiwan and type 1 in Mexico. I spoke with a dewalt technician and he confirmed that the type 20 has improved slides.
  5. Frankly most of those reviews are too limited and are really like paid ads. Ls0714 is no longer sold in USA. Do some research the ls1216 and ls1016 have suffered from blade wobble poor fence design miter lock not holding up mushy zero bevel stop and less power as the head shakes when cutting heavier material.
  6. i got 2 fuel 18 volt sawzalls. I have not used my corded since getting these monsters
  7. just return it for another 90 day return policy ifind dewalt's manufacturing uneven even on their good tools
  8. glass

    cm12sd

    new miter saw the cm12sd. Anybody try it yet ?
  9. PLEASE ABANDON THE RACE TO THE BOTTOM AND GO BACK TO MAKING MITER SAWS OF THE QUALITY OF MY 2 LS1211'S. JUST BECAUSE ITS ASSEMBLED IN USA MEANS NOTHING IF THE PARTS ARE MADE IN CHINA. CURRENT LS1216L HAS GREAT CAPACITY BUT SILLY DOUBLE SLIDING FENCES MUSHING STOP AT ZERO BEVEL AND LESS POWER THAN OLDER MODELS AND STILL CANNOT BEVEL PAST 45. MY LS1211'S ARE SOME OF THE BEST MITER SAWS EVER MADE. FORGET ABOUT A $600 PRICE POINT MAKE A $800 SAW WITH A GREAT BLADE AND BLOW THAT CRAP FROM FESTOOL AWAY. I LOVE MY LS0714 THE CURRENT 8 1/2" SLIDER SORRY TO SAY IS GARBAGE. DO NOT FOLLOW HITACHI TO RUIN.
  10. I just purchased this excellent tool which except for cord length and blade change I like better than the Festool. This is what it needs a full line of blades especially a rip blade with all having the exact same kerf size! come on makita Secondly Please MAKE A LARGER PLUNGE SAW WITH 15 AMPS OF CUTTING POWER AND COPY THE MAFELL ANGLE CUTTING GUIDE SET UP.
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