BMack37

Yeah, I want those pretty bad but not that bad.

Neat idea but you want a battery like we have now. Look at how some guys treat their power tools, an easy open battery pack will be dropped from a roof onto concrete open and spill the cells everywhere and everyone on the jobsite will call them junk.

$69 at my three closest stores. The $18 one posted on GJ is 40 mins from me, not worth the drive...I don't need one that bad.

The Porter Cable Restorer is on deep discounts at some Lowe's, it seems you'll have to go to see the price. I've seen as low as $18, retail is $100!

My Wen's key has the spring but it's not stiff, it's easy to use. I'd try lubing it, if that doesn't loosen it then email Wen...they have great customer service, I guarantee they'll send you a new one.

Yeah, that's dumb. I like my eyeline being at about the 3/4 line on the windshield, it gives you a better view of the road AND your own vehicle which is important when parking. I rarely (like once or twice a year) have to stop and reposition when pulling into a spot, been that way since I started driving...first with a full sized pickup and now with a SUV. I HATE not just pulling into a spot, I'm the most impatient parker, I just want to park and get on with my day. A lot of new cars sit you lower, like you described, and you can't see where the hood ends to estimate where your bumper is, all you see is the curvature of the hood.

I always have trouble in back seats because I wear size 13 shoes. Interesting, definitely doesn't sound comfortable. I hate most cars coming out now, visibility is terrible because the A pillars are always huge.

What's your height/weight? Hard to imagine they're not built for guys at least 6'3" and 240. I'm 6'1" 230, wide shoulders and long legs, I've never felt cramped in a modern truck, even back to the 90s. For looks, the 90s GM pickups are probably my favorite (for practical trucks), followed by the 1st gen Ford Raptor. 50s trucks from pretty much everyone are the best looking trucks but they're not practical or comfortable.

That's insane

Chrome and impact U-joints are absolutely necessary if you're going to wrench on a semi-regular basis. I don't find wobbles to be all that helpful.

This was finished a couple nights ago. Never gets old turning this into something: Cut into strips: Glued up and planed: Cut to size, routed(including a cup in the bottom), sanded and oiled: Done and ready to use: What is it?

Today while waiting on Fedex I made a little sandpaper shelf:

With my compact m18 Fuel, thread then hit with the impact one the fastest speed to two impacts, gets me to about 70 ft/lbs, then I use a torque wrench. It's about a half turn away.

What's with Ford and Chevy and those tiny headlights? The Ranger would look really good with a couple inches taller headlight...and fixing the height of the doors/bed under the window line.

Sadly, not a lot. I think you'd be lucky to get $50 out of it. I'm pretty sure both of those pieces are made in the USA(the router might be the early overseas model for PC, it's not very old) too. Small router tables are about $120 new. Used USA routers are common, you can probably find one of those routers for $25/35 at a pawn shop or cheaper at a yard sale. Less people care about the made in USA thing when you have stuff now that is made overseas with better features and more user friendly. I personally wouldn't let it go for that cheap but if you're not using it, of course, it's not doing you any good sitting there. If you can afford to sit on it for some time, list it for $100 and gauge your offers. Your area may be different than mine, I live in a large city so there are a lot of tools available. I think I paid $35 for my router table and one router, both USA made but my table is plastic instead of metal. I've paid $8 and $15 for two other made in USA routers.

Lowe's sucks.

No on bolt extractors, no on stripped heads. Rusted, if you can get the socket on(even if it takes a hammer to get it on). No on masonry. With bolt extractors, what you want is slow, steady pressure...Not fast with rotational impacts. You do NOT want to break an extractor, that is a LOT worse that dealing with the stripped bolt.

I like the idea of creating some jobs in the US by "Assembling in the US" but I find that the biggest problem with tools is the materials used in the tool and if it's still globally sourced, it really isn't making a difference. That's not to say it's bad but I wouldn't buy an "Assembled in the USA" tool expecting any better quality than something made offshore from a comparable brand. I personally try my best to always view things from an outside perspective, it tends to keeps my opinions in check. I try to be open minded also, I mean really...if you close yourself off to some brands, you're going to be missing out on good tools. Hell, I just bought an iPhone X. I HATE Apple for their money grubbing business practices but I like certain things about the OS, their app store is better and there are more third party accessories.

I've been really disappointed in a lot of USA tools. It seems that a lot of the USA tool makers are soo darn confident that they are the best because they make tools in the USA that they fail to innovate and sometimes let the quality slip. Look at Eklind hex keys, made in the USA, rough edges, not chamfered..Chinese made Tekton, larger set for cheaper AND finished properly and chamfered. USA screwdrivers other than Tekton (that are less than $20 a piece), all acetate junk. Look at Wera, Knipex, Wiha, Witte all of them have innovative designs to improve tools. USA has Channellock, making the same thing for decades. Klein is doing some things but it's nothing special, most copying Knipex multi-functional pliers. The Japanese hand tools are even better, they have absolutely genius ideas to improve tools, they're not scared to take chances...USA made chances are being taken by guys in their garage that end up licensing to larger companies; Robogrip, Porter Cable Restorer, Grip-it screw extractors etc.

It works a lot better for miters, maybe I need to get at least four of them and it would work better but the surface isn't grippy so the pieces can move on you.

I might have to get those. I'm not a huge fan of the Kreg corner clamp, sometimes it still comes out a little off and my OCD can't take it. It's ok for some things but not great.

Advertising is always in the best case scenario, that's just how it works. It's the customer's job to be informed on how likely that best case scenario is...literally every tool company makes claims that are questionable.

It depends on the quality of the steel but in general it will be more likely to break given the same torque as a thicker walled socket.

Agreed but if you imagine you spread out the cost of a phone over the cost of two years, it's not a bad investment if you use it a lot. It's still about $40 a month but that's about $1.40 a day...cheaper than a lot of stupid things we buy, like a bottle of water or a soda. A lot cheaper than a pack of cigarettes if you smoke. Though it also goes to show you how cheap laptops and TVs have become, and it shows the value of a good mattress...and what a scam insurance is...

It's really early in this technology, you have to start somewhere. I certainly don't think tracking is something you can count on, not with any system out there now. It needs cellular/GPS in the tracking and several satellites even then it can be foiled by a steel roof or an aging battery. The best thing we can count on is the idea of it not working if it isn't being seen in your app...but that could cause issues and could be defeated with a board change or possibly even shorting the super cap or battery on the PCB.