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JimboS1ice

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Posts posted by JimboS1ice

  1. I have the smaller 4.5-5.5” Milwaukee and I use it all the time fabricating. Three things about it. First it eats batteries big time which is sort of what I expected. Not good for big areas like paint stripping but for typical fabricating or even cutting sheet metal it does fine on a 5 Ah battery (or two...). You know when your grinding time on the whole job is under 10 minutes cleaning up welds, putting on bevels, cutting sheet metal, grinding rough edges, removing stuck bolts and nuts. Probably not a good choice for paint stripping or cutting shafts because of long run times.

    Second you can easily “bury” it but it’s not going to get away from you if you are in a tight spot and have to use it one handed. I can bury corded ones too. My corded Dewalt has way too much torque to use it one handed in a tight spot. I have the “real” one of those, not the baby.

    Third, the batteries will get very hot if you do run it until the battery runs out. At least on the “mid output” 5.0 Ah ones. The HO 9s and 12s might be different.


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    Much like all of Milwaukee’s new releases they’re designed to use the newer HO packs unfortunately so those of us with stock piles of 5.0s can get short intermittent bursts of work done. I’m sure with the new 8.0 with 21700 cells you can get some respectable run times.


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  2. Is 19.2v discontinued? I only see 20v for sale.

    Well that’s a more complicated question being that Sears sold crafstman to SBD so the crafstman you would buy it Lowe’s is different than that from Sears. Sears sold the 19.2 which was replaced by a Sears 20v but is not compatible with the 20v max from Lowe’s.

    Still following?

    Sears holdings was slated to close early this year however they were revived by their shady investor/owner who is accused of running the company in the ground in order to put money in his pocket. Anywho the Sears remained open and is selling off NOS - new old stock - of Crafstman tools. You can still grab some 19.2 but it’s old tech which was hoped to be replace by the Sears Crafstman 20v.

    So existing now is Sears Craftsman 19.2
    Sears Crafstman 20v
    Lowe’s/SBD Crafstman 20 Max

    For the best shot of support, new tools and warranty I would not invest in the Sears Crafstman line of cordless tools

    Hope this helps


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  3. I am thinking about buying a bunch of M12 Gen 2 tools but I wonder if they will be phased out in a year or two with M12 Gen 3 tools. When do you think M12 Gen 3 will debut?
     
    When did M12 Gen 1 tools launch?
    When did M12 Gen 2 tools launch?

    The current generation of M12 has been around about 2 years, they are more than capable tools. I would hope Milwaukee would focus on improving older brushed models and other areas where tools are needed than redesigning drills that don’t need it. Today is their New Product Symposium so we may find out today the answer to your question.


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  4. That sound is the sanding Festool gods raining unholy hell upon what lay beneath the Rotex. I have a Rotex 150 and when you have the gear driven mode on it sounds like a big block V8 with open headers.


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  5. It's definitely a tool that isn't needed but very helpful and time saving. There are still plenty of times were I will make traditional mortise and tenons (like on my dresser build). It helped a lot in panel glue ups I did previously. So I am looking forward to that.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


    I bet you’ll end up using it more than you think, we’ll definitely up your face frame game


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  6. I'm deep deep into DeWalt, but I can't part with my Ryobi stuff because they keep releasing tools like this. 
     
    Walking around Home Depot today and see this sitting there. Haven't seen mention of it anywhere. It's possible I missed it but anyway, pretty thrilled to have found these.
     
    Makita has one pretty similar to this that is 15" and from what I could find, produces 245 cfm (that seems low...it's gotta be higher).
     
    This is 18" and advertised as producing up to 2400 cfm.
     
    No clue as to the accuracy of the above cfm numbers, but I have the Ryobi going in my office and the thing is moving a ton of air. 

    Very, very happy to have found this. I'm picturing hot days, working out of the van, this thing on high, keeping me a bit cooler...
    20190517_140136_HDR.thumb.jpg.06a191a15d06998df13879b69948e42f.jpg 
     
    20190517_140147_HDR.thumb.jpg.462924c37362081974eaf42d43e3bd4f.jpg
     
    20190517_140204_HDR.thumb.jpg.6f2aa7e0d881af80da0e09c1b451cceb.jpg
     
    20190517_140313_HDR.thumb.jpg.bbdd97da42cfe4654a32db1b80927c81.jpg

    How much is that fan? Looks really nice


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  7. Got the rockler dust right expandable hose a d dust right fittings. Should make going from one machine to another easier. Also got a dfm tool works dowel plate. I've actually used dowels in quite a bit of my projects. Will be nice to use wood that matches. 124a34ccac632a77e51783877d5543b7.jpg1f35a5bcce204ffad843bd50fdbb8eba.jpg5e4e5de2c0fb630bfde29d4f21c42d74.jpg
     
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    8f3d14e121b00e6ca72ac7efa9cd4a93.jpg
     
     

    I grabbed one of his dowel plates too, thing is nice


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  8. I picked up Dewalts new cordless sander. Seller made me wait for awhile so they gave me a free 2.0 battery for my trouble. Didn’t have the manual so I’ll be looking for a file online 

    Wish I saw this I think I just threw my manual out, I’ll double check if I have it I can mail it to you


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  9. There’s a good article on “toolguyd” about atomic tools. ..about the only one I see that looks good is the hacksall ( Milwaukee clone) ...the specs suck for the atomic tools ,so does the size....

    Yea I was taken aback when I dig into the line a little more, typical big company marketing. The impact isn’t even that small... but will the tools be available at other retailers I’ve heard that it’s allegedly exclusive to HD.


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  10. I also have the cordless 10” Makita, I run it in my shop which means one less thing I have to plug in. I use a full Kerf 89T blade in it and still have plenty of runtime and even power. Last week I was cutting 10” x 6/4 oak no problem what so ever.

    I don’t understand a miter saw not needing to be portable. Mitersaws are paramount on just about every job site and how many times have you gone to a sight that has limited to no power supply?


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  11. M12 Brushed Hackzall $45
    M12 Brushed Hammerdrill $35
    M12 copper Cutter $80
    M12 Jigsaw Kit $100
    M12 Gen 3 Drill 2803 - $100
    M12 Palm IMPACT Nailer $50
    M18 Fuel Hackzall - $120

    Ridgid 18V Random Orbital Sander - $50
    Ridgid 18V Belt Sander - $100


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  12. I have the Makita XPS02 cordless plunge cut saw.  I have the wheels adjusted so there is no side to side play with the saw in the track but not too tight as to make the saw difficult to push down the track.  It seems every cut I am taking a little more off the rubber and after a dozen cuts there is less than 1/16 of rubber sticking out the track.  Don’t understand why I keep getting closer to the track with each cut.  Going to take some measurements to see if blade is parallel to slot in base and maybe switch to a thicker kerf blade to see if blade is warping during cutting.  I am cutting red oak stair treads but going slow with the feed rate.

    With that saw if you adjust the wheel too tight it will bring it too close to the saw, the wheel needs to be tightened just enough it takes the play out but over tighten and you’ll bite the rail


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  13. Hi I just purchased the cordless track saw.  I made my initial cut in the track and the rubber was very rough.  It had the tiniest bumps at regular intervals down the track.  Made a couple more cuts and it seemed to smooth out.  By the fourth cut the saw kind of bound up in the middle of the track and when I finished my cut I noticed the middle of the track I actually cut the aluminum track!  I had the saw adjusted like the manual says to slide easy but no chatter side to side.  I don’t understand how the saw cut the track but now I’m left with not trusting the rubber strip to line up my cuts.

    Which saw do you have? On my makita you adjust how the Saw rides the rail and if it’s too close you’ll hit the rail


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