JimboS1ice
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Posts posted by JimboS1ice
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Rule of thumb with a Roto hammer is the “rated” capacity of the drill say 1” for simplicity, the sweet spot of that drills power is around 1/2” holes, so what you need a larger SDS Max may be in your favor...
Devils advocate is the price worth the upgrade to the big gun if you’ll only pull it out a few times a year, may be better off with a more powerful SDS plus.
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Using my Dad's old Skil 728 roto hammer. Hasn't been used for 20 years but has been cased and protected. Drill runs smoothly but the hammer function only engages intermittently. Repeated trigger pulls will eventually engage the hammer function and then it makes concrete seem like butter! So does anyone recognize the symptoms and are you able to suggest a possible corrective action. This tool has sentimental value so I'd like to keep it running and hand it down to my grand nephew. I was lucky enough to find some bits online. Thanks.
For a start pull it open and see what’s going on there, could be as simple as decayed wires
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Ah I understand now. I had been thinking this was goung to be your main bench but makes sense for a lathe table.
If I ever decide on what I want in a workbench I’ll make it, functional top with dog holes, t track or match fit, vice/clamp mechanism... not sure the direction I’d like to take yet
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Got the lathe bench built just have to clean the top up a little and stabilize it with some feet
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I have resorted to Tough System wall racks and Systainers for the power tools, casters for the workbench and miter stand, and pre existing shelving/pegboard for everything else to help pack away my shop. It does the job. I wouldn't mind rebuilding/redesigning the preexisting shelving to make them a bit more efficient (and square/not cupped) but I was told I shouldn't.
For me it’s a balance of what can stay out, go in a drawer or go in a case, I hate having to unstack something to get a tool out, even my festools I’ve long considered a different storage system for them, we are talking about moving so I don’t want to go too crazy right now but the less I have to undig the happier I am, if I can get rid of every storage box I’d be very happy, but I’m also a shop guy
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I am in the market for a wood plug cutter. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Check out Snappy Bits, USA made
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starlock reduces vibration?
It’s such a more solid connection than OIS less play in the blades
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Check eReplacementparts.com even if you can't have it shipped you can get a part number and exploded view of the tool
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Our saws are used by a crew. Some just use detentes some tighten down. Either that saw was defective or was abused. If you are slamming thru the detentes I am sure you will have trouble. Like I stated the Makitas for finish. The dewalts are more for framing and exterior work with stickiy slides jump start and lower power Dewalt motor. No saw is perfect not even the kapex.
I know this is slightly off topic but the new Skilsaw 12” miter maybe the go to framing saw, from what I’ve seen it looks pretty good
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I too have a Makita miter, the X2 non AWS, other than a minor detent plate adjustment my saw is pretty true, I’ve been very happy with it, dust collection is on point, plenty of power for cordless. My saw gets a god amount of use like glass showed with his, my detent are rock on solid.
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Don’t hesitate bro!!!! Get some easywood tools and a face shield and start scraping!!!! It’s a blast!
Planning on it! Just trying to get the shop set up
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Actually the Mafell cross cutting saws come in five sizes. The beast is the kss80 that can cut better than 3" stock. That one is corded though.
That’s awesome, plenty of options right there
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Is this part of that 12v kit that got passed around from a few members few years back?
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On 1/3/2019 at 8:23 AM, wingless said:
Bosch MP500T 5-Piece Daredevil Rotary / Impact / Hammer Drill Bit Set
A tungsten carbide masonry drill bit set with ¼" hex shank and the power groove retention radius that is impact-rated is required for usage with my impact driver.
This set includes one each of these drill sizes, plus an easy-to-use storage case, 5/32", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8".
These are rated for rotary, impact and hammer modes. These are specified for brick, concrete, tile, stone, plastic and steel.
You put these through the ringer yet? The ones that I had dulled out pretty quickly, carbide worn down to nothing after few months
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On 11/23/2018 at 5:25 PM, wingless said:
Tekton 2938 14 Piece Nut Driver Bit Set
This Tekton 2938 14-piece nut driver bit set has both SAE and metric nut driver sizes in a handy belt loop holder.
This is a VERY handy kit, with both SAE and metric, neatly organized in a compact holder AND competitively priced. IMO, this should be in every tool kit.
The drive bits are not magnetic.
The shaft length is short. Each bit has a power groove retention radius on the ¼" hex shank. Some have reported problems because of the short shaft length. I have not encountered any issues because of the shaft length.
The socket size is deeply engraved on each socket exterior.
The bit removal / replacement / retention in the holder is ideal.
Ive had this set quite a few years, can't complain none of broke, they hold up well, holster keeps them together, just don't stay pretty for long lol
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1 hour ago, ChrisK said:
What did you get for a lathe Jimbo?
My folks bought me a Wen still haven't had a chance to play with it
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2 hours ago, Don Monfils said:
What do you not like about the M18?
i have had several OMT’s, I mainly use the Fein multi master for undercutting door casings.
I find the blades last much longer when used on a slower speed (2-3)
The DeWalt doesn’t have a speed dial,
the variable speed is in the trigger.
I had a Rigid tool, and it was difficult to keep it a consistent speed , unless it was full throttle.
i thought about getting a M18 but I have never tried one .
One of the worst OMTs on the market, blade change isn't the greatest, power isn't the best but worst off it vibrates pretty bad, Feins the best you can get no going back from there, Bosch is a close second, all about star lock, total game changer
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2 hours ago, wingless said:
The tool has both a variable speed trigger switch, plus the three-position mode switch.
Sorry i don't think I was clear, the 887 has the speed selector on the bottom of the tool but its a manual switch, i find a little tedious to use, tend to skip speed to an go back and forth between 1 and 3, same war i fight with the DCD 996... any who most other manufactures on multi mode/speed impacts have an electronic button that switches the speeds like Milwaukee, Hitachi, Bosch, Makita...
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I have quite a few Jorgesson Parallel clamps, i love them, can't find them now but rumor is they're back in business, have quite a few bessey bar clamps too, if you can find the german made ones thats the way to go
Also just got two Bessey Kliklamps, first impression... not impressed but well see after they get some use
Id like to try out the Bessey Gear Clamps, those look pretty nice
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Wow, forgot I started this thread, my garage looks so empty looking back, I just went through some reorganization... again
I got a lathe for Christmas so I’m currently working on a bench stand for it I’ll post some pictures later
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Welcome to the forum
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Awesome work, welcome to the forum
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I see you put a set of Hammerdrill masonry bits in the box. I understand they have a 1/4 in hex to lock into the tool but they are better used in a hammer drill not an impact
Bosch designed a set of masonry bits for impact use, they perform okay on smaller stuff but heavier duty tasks forget about it, carbide is too soft on it the tips wear pretty quickly
@wingless this is a great impact from DEWALT except one thing, I hate the speed selector, wish they would have made it electronic like pretty much any other brand
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Yup - Festool bought Sawstop...
in Festool
Posted
Yea I heard about the price increase
This is all I Got [emoji1596]
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