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Biggie

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Everything posted by Biggie

  1. Even with an 18v "hammer drill" anything more than a 3/16" hole it's going to struggle and be a pretty unpleasant experience. Different materials are also going to drill different. Blocks like you see in the video are going to drill easier than concrete, especially old concrete is tougher to drill. A more specialized "rotary hammer drill" is what you want if you're doing any serious drilling into concrete but it's not real practical if you're just a homeowner drilling an occasional hole. Also because I have no idea of your tool knowledge, make sure you're in hammer drill mode on the drill and they do make drill bits specifically for drilling into concrete.
  2. I think everyone has been tempted by knock off Chinese batteries. There were times I thought well just to have a few more batteries around even of they aren't as good or give as long or run time. But when I got looking into them what scared me away was the increased risk of burning up a tool or my house.
  3. Typically "XR" is dewalts top of the line brushless tools. So the xr dcf887 while old now was their top tier brushless 3 speed impact. The dcf 888 is just the 887 with tool connect, which for most people is a pretty useless feature. In the last couple years dewalt has come out with the atomic line of tools. They started as being a compact line of tools but no one really knows if they're the replacement to the XR line or not. When they first brought out the atomic line they released the dcf809 but everyone kind of found out it was a dud. It's pretty underpowered and not much smaller than any of their other impacts. Then recently they released the atomic dcf850 which really appears to be replacing the dcf887 as the flagship although there are some people that are hopeful that a new XR version is still going to be released. The dcf885 is a old brushed model which is nothing fancy but we still have some working everyday on a jobsite that are 5+ years old. There are a few other impact models you might find which they like to put in holiday specials or kits at the big box stores. They might be brushless but they're usually a cheaper tool that might only have a single speed. The dcf787 is one of these models that has been out for awhile. The dcf840 is a new one of these models, which I think is pretty much their 12v impact that they put a 18/20v battery on but it from what I've seen seems to be getting positive reviews.
  4. Its a little hard to tell from listening but I think what you're hearing is normal. The magnetic field and armature in the motor act almost like a brake so as it slows down they make a clicking noise as it jumps from one magnet to the next. Also if you put a disk on and just turn it by had you should get some resistance and then that same click.
  5. Just saw the torque test channels new video about the new dewalt mid torque and came here to update but someone already beat me to it. This new mid torque would be pretty tempting but then again there has been rumor of a new dewalt high torque coming out too but who knows when. I still think when it comes to things like tractor wheels, a high torque is going to serve you better than even this new mid torque.
  6. If you're not using the tool on a regular basis I would say get the high torque. If you were using it every day and the mid torque did 98% of your work then I would say it's not worth lugging around the high torque but it sounds like it's a specialty tool for you either way. So you might as well have the big dog that does everything, especially if you're getting into tractor wheels and suspension components. Sometimes even the high torque can get quite a workout on bigger rusty fasteners.
  7. My guess is you're talking about an "xc" battery which is the same as any other m12 redlithium battery , just a larger square base with more runtime. They still make these xc batteries (3.0, 4.0 or 6.0ah) and they should be available pretty much anywhere m12 tools are. To my knowledge there aren't any m12 tools that aren't compatible with all m12 batteries especially in the last 4 years. If the "xc" batteries aren't what you're talking about and it's truly a different battery it's possible you have some kind of knockoff.
  8. The dewalt uses a cold cut carbide tip blade and the makita uses an abrasive blade. We've had the dewalt for a number of years and the two saws are night and day different. I still get your point about wanting it to be a cordless model and to be honest I don't really know why they couldn't make the cold cut saw in a battery platform. I don't really see the power requirements being much different.
  9. I don't know for sure with black and decker but a lot of times part of the serial number is a date code. I think I'm making out a 83 as the last numbers could possibly be the year.
  10. Sounds like it may be an issue with the drill making a noise. But it doesn't surprise me that it's cutting out multiple times on a hole, it takes a lot of torque to turn an auger and the electronics are going to be sensitive to binds. Battery size, charge level, and temp could all be a factor with it stopping in holes too. Don't know how much experience you have with cordless power tools but it's going to perform best on larger a/h batteries (at least 4ah and the bigger the better). While power fade isn't as bad as they were with old nicad power tools, the drill will have more power with the first half of battery than the second half, leading to more cut outs. Like with most batteries if they're cold they aren't going to perform as well which could lead to cut outs.
  11. There could be a lot of discussion on this subject and it really comes down to what you're using the grinder for. Even a cheap corded grinder is probably more powerful than most cordless models but not nearly as convenient. All cordless models are power hungry so brushless is the way to go and it doesn't hurt to have a good supply of larger a/h batteries as they perform better on bigger batteries. If you've never used a cordless before and you do a lot of heavy grinding you may be disappointed with a cordless or find that it's the wrong tool for you. I have a ag construction company that does concrete, metal fab/millwright and iron work. There was a time ten years ago I would have said a cordless grinder was useless and now I don't carry a corded grinder on my truck and I couldn't tell you the last time I used a corded. I have experience with bosch, dewalt, and milwaukee cordless and to this day I would still say the dewalt flexvolt 60v grinder is the closest thing to corded. When it comes to 18-20v grinders the bosch, dewalt, and milwaukee all perform about the same, it's really just what battery line you're in. All that being said and assuming you want to stick with dewalt you have to make the decision about 20v or 60v. The 60v is a more powerful grinder but if you don't have any flexvolt batteries you're going to have to invest a little bit into batteries. There are really two models in the 60v. -Dcg414 is the original 60v. I have this model and think it's very comparable in power to corded. -dcg418 is the newest 60v it got a small bump in power from the 414 and if you go 60v it's the model you should look for. If you're looking at 20v there's pretty much 4 models. -dcg412 is a old brushed model and isn't terrible for diy or if you have a lot of batteries. 6.0ah and higher batteries really perk up the power on them too. -dcg413 was dewalts first 20v brushless and is a very solid performer. Also the dcg405 is the same model but with a slide switch instead of a paddle. -dcg415 "power detect" Lowes was given this model as an updated brushless that gives better performance with 21700 cell batteries. Dcg416 "flexvolt advantage" Home Depot got this as as an updated brushless model and it's said to perform better on the flexvolt batteries. I don't have any experience with the "power detect" or "flexvolt advantage" models but I really think it's more marketing hype than anything. They might have a little more power but if you put the newest biggest batteries on the dcg413 you're going to see power gains too. If you went the 20v route the dcg415 or dcg416 are the models I would look at as they are the newest just choose which ever batteries you have or if you're a lowes or homedepot person.
  12. If you're talking milwaukee fuel hammer drill vs fuel drill driver its worth knowing that the hammer drill comes with a chuck with carbide inserts in the jaw and the drill driver doesn't. The two drills are the same size and the difference in weight is negligible. With these things in mind even though I may never use the hammer feature, I would still choose the hammer drill. Plus if you run into the rare occasion where you need a hammer drill you have the feature too.
  13. If you looked around a little you should be able to get a dw9096 for closer to $100 from reputable sellers. ex. Acme tools, homedepot, probably others. Another option would be to get a battery adapter so you could run the newer li/ion batteries. You're still going to pay decent money but atleast you're not buying old technology and it makes updating tools a little easier in the future. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-18-Volt-to-20-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Adapter-Kit-2-Pack-DCA2203C/206526033?MERCH=REC-_-pip_alternatives-_-204309316-_-206526033-_-N
  14. The chuck on the rotary hammer has a sort of quick change chuck. I believe they come standard with an sds chuck but you can easily remove it with that red ring. Don't know why but it seems to be the way hammer drills are made in EU. The EU jigsaw you have listed has a brushed motor and the US model is the fuel brushless motor. Which I would consider a pretty substantial difference.
  15. Biggie

    Mud mixer?

    If you're already in the LXT or M18 battery platforms both makita and milwaukee offer cordless mixers. I have no experience with either but I would assume they do better than just a standard hammer drill, the makita is $240 bare tool and the milwaukee is $220 bare tool. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1-2-in-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Brushless-Mixer-Tool-Only-XTU02Z/310268873 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Mud-Mixer-Tool-Only-2810-20/302677799#overlay
  16. First off I have zero experience with either. What I would say though is if you're not currently invested in either battery platform I would lean towards the dewalt. I'm pretty invested in milwaukee and I like that they make some high demand tools in the m18 platform but a lot of them have thermal overload issues. The 60v tools from dewalt just seem to perform better.
  17. 1. The serial number has a date code so e-service will honor the power tools warranty for 5 years from that date. They will also honor it 5 years from the date of purchase if you have the receipt. I don't think the fuel hackzall has been out for 5 years so you probably don't have to worry about the receipt at this time. 2. Although they've recently changed some things on e-service, I don't think it's really a tool registry, but I could be wrong about that. 3. Any time I've sent something in, they only want the defective tool and not the whole kit/ batteries and chargers. 4. Good question. I don't think they have any way of knowing what kit your batteries came with. I would think the build date and receipt date have to make sense meaning you couldn't send in a battery with a build date of 2020 with a receipt from 2019. I've never sent in a battery but the warranty on them is a little different. I think the warranty is only 3 years and they can read the first time it was charged and how many times it's been charged from the electronics so they might prorate how much warranty you actually get. Don't quote me on the details, I've read the warranty before but it's been a few years.
  18. I had your exact same situation. What I found is the 9ah will actually fit in the blower although it's tight and takes a little flexing but it does go. I think it's just a design oversight and I've never had any issues running the blower with the 9ah. Then again I'm just a homeowner that uses the blower to clean up my driveway, sidewalk and patio so I'm not draining a battery in a single use.
  19. I'm on the milwaukee and Dewalt battery platforms. I only have 1-⅛" rotary hammers but side by side I would say the dewalt makes a little better rotary hammer. Like wingless said bosch has always had a good reputation for rotary hammers but I personally don't have any experience. I've also seen some good things about Makita but again I have no experience. I don't know what the availability is on Hilti in Russia but if you're serious about rotary hammers they really are supreme. You're also going to pay a pretty good premium but if you're using them daily they're probably worth it.
  20. Dewalt batteries should have a 3 year warranty from either a receipt or the build date on the battery. I'm not familiar with the charger warranty but it must be at least a 1 year warranty. Ive sent a few in to a factory service center over the years without a receipt just using the date code on the battery and they send out new ones. I've also heard of people just calling Dewalt and they just send out new batteries.
  21. If the chuck is junk anyhow cutting it apart to get a better look and access might be the thing to do. I'm not real familiar with that specific drill but I do know some of dewalts cordless drills don't actually have a retaining screw. In this case what you would actually be seeing is the end of the spindle which can have a dimple in the end that looks like it might be some kind of torque or allen head but it isn't. If this were the case the chuck should just spin off with enough torque.
  22. Might be too simple but did you check the brushes. When they get weak they can cut in and out intermittently for a while until they completely stop working.
  23. I have the m18 ⅜" right angle impact and the m12 ⅜" brushed (non-fuel) ratchet. The impact is pretty underpowered at only 60ft/lbs of torque. It is pretty compact but won't break a lot of fasteners loose and then you're stuck grabbing a wrench anyhow. The m12 ratchet, while having less torque can be used as a ratchet so you can break the fastener loose by hand and then use the power to run it off. I also have the m12 right angle impact wrench, which has like 250ft/lbs of torque so it has a lot more power but the head is also not as compact. I'm not a mechanic but I would think the ratchet would be best suited for engine bay work.
  24. I'm not real sure which 1/2" impact you have, and I could check one of mine but I would say it's pretty common for the anvil to have some movement. Depending on manufacturing tolerances you may have an impact with more movement.
  25. While I'm not currently that interested in a new tool brand, competition never hurts.
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