rrmccabe

It seems to hold great with 4 locking casters. I had a fall back plan to add jacking screws or something else to stabilize it but doesn't appear I am going to need to do anything.

John, Look at the Cetol SRD line from Sikkens. They have variations. I think if you add tints it will have better UV protection than without, but even the clear stuff is good. I have had miserable results over the years with outdoor finishes and I love doing the work the first time but I hate redoing (maintenance). As you know I have several family members that have worked for Wood and WoodSmith Magazine over the years and I finally called on the master for advice. Problem solved. Sikkens. You might consider oils too but its going to need application occasionally.

New Sjoberg portable wood vise.

Super Easy John. One handed. The handles on top of planer are in perfect spot and ideal for rotating it.

@CATERPILLAR If you are talking about the grinder disc on the wall, A lot of those are from a source I just tried and had not used before. Very pleased so far and the pricing is great. http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/coated-abrasives

Never seen such a thing. Looks like it is used to split or separate something.

John, I would use sikkens, or sikkens or maybe even sikkens. Any questions

Just finished this project yesterday. About a week ago I ordered a new planer. Its actually my first. As with most of us, floor space is precious so I try to design things so they store efficiently. DISCLAIMER: I have a problem with easy setup and having stuff ready. I am embarrassed to say I will gnaw through a piece of wood using a pair of pliers before I will take the time to pull a miter saw off the shelf, setup a stand and get it plugged in. The main reason for my flip top design was to have the planer at a comfortable working height and then be able to flip it down and slide it under one of my work benches. I would have loved to add a second tool on the top but then it would not fit under my bench. It seemed like a waste to have the second surface with nothing on it so I decided to incorporate a section of old Festool MFT top into the flip side which will allow me to use my 20mm dogs and Festool clamps. I built it at the exact same height as my Festool MFT table so I can use it as a support extension if needed. Everything I built starts in CAD. I used to do everything in AutoCAD but switched to Sketchup a few years ago. So here is the stand with the rotating tables shown in both locations. Here it is with the planer in working position. And here it is flipped over with the Festool top up. And finally, the main design objective with it stored away.

I saw the Helical was available from Shelix when I ordered my planer. But I am with you, the price tag is a little steep for my liking so wont be something in my near future. I also wonder if there is any less snipe with the helical as they are staggered and not perpendicular to the board like the stock knives. Nice that you have 4 sides but rotating all those cutters one at a time would require a lot of beer.

Be a fun and easy project and save a lot of money. For me personally I have found that buying machine thread T nuts and using small machine screws in the track is a better option that just screwing the track down with wood screws. Both work but I have lifted the track on more than one occasion and have switched to T Nuts on everything I build.

Check out bits for the Porter Cable 4212. Same company and I think they are the same jig so possibly same setup.

I don't anymore. Except on my hotrod. Just not with the mess and really not much savings.

@tugnut1 Geez, make me blush buddy. The shop is a labor of love. You know how that goes. @ChrisK I hated the tape and if you take the fitting in and out those will eventually shear off. The Festool dust extractor will not hold up to static like a regular shop vac will so I did not want to take any risk. Here are a few pictures of what I modified to make mine fit my needs. Your post was a good reminder to change something that bugs me so I just did that. My original UDD kit came with a plastic elbo that allowed the house to go straight up. The right angle is probably not the best for flow but it worked without issues. When they sent my upgraded kit it had this metal elbo that fit poorly and when slightly bumped would fall out. So I went back to the right angle plastic elbo and drilled 4 holes around the perimeter and inserted studs thats are all interconnected with ground wire. One of them has a piece of copper strap on the inside for more surface area. To replace the tape on the actual cyclone I took a piece of copper plumbing tubing about 4" long and made a cut lengthwise. Then flattened it out with a hammer and formed it around the fitting with a couple tabs going over the top. Then connected the wire to the copper. The hose slides right over the copper. I left all the foil tape under the copper. No issues so far. And like you I have dumped the UDD box about 10 times and have nothing in the bag. Had a good conversation with John (Tugnut1) last night about dust collection and I might consider Oneida for the big system.

Yea if you can avoid Festool prices for something as simple as a hose then its the way to go. I dont mind paying for Festool quality but when I have to start shelling out $200 for a hose that's ridiculous. So you are using the ultimate dust deputy? What are they doing for grounding now? I was an early user and actually blew out a circuit board in my dust extractor. Oneida stepped up and paid for the repair. I now have a copper tab going from inlet on the vac to inlet on the cyclone which ties in with the ground. They had a cheesy metal tape kit which was not going to last. My original cyclone was white and they replaced it with a black one to reduce static.

@ChrisK The grey hose is actually a long festool hose but the larger one. Works well but I end up swapping hoses more than I like. I have thought about making a short Y section with blast gates right there but just need to save some money for dust collection.

Thanks guys. I work pretty hard at keeping it clean but spend a lot of time building places for things to go. If every tool has its place to hang or be put away then the cleanup goes so much faster. In previous years I spent most my time carrying stuff around figuring out where to pile it I need to get dust collection for the wood area beyond what I have so it stays cleaner during projects. Just not in the cards right now. @Jronman why are you surprised to see a computer? I am an IT guy so this is just built from misc parts. Mostly computers my customers decided not to fix and had me toss.

Just signed up ! I might have had an account with a previous tool company I was with but not sure. Was talking to my friend John (TugNut1) tonight and he brought me this way. I am a wood guy, steel guy and car guy.... None of this plays well together but I am finally getting it set up. Trying to keep the metal to one corner of shop and the woodworking stuff to the other end. I also have got some duplicate items like drill press etc so I dont get cross contamination of products. Nothing worse than gouging a nice chunk of wood with a metal shaving or staining it with oil from steel. So here are a few pictures and descriptions along the way. And want to say Hey to Dan and Eric. So... This is the steel end of the shop. Small Miller MIG, Fein steel saw, belt and disc sanders, jacks, jack-stands, steel vise, etc. This bench has two hitch receivers under it so I can slide in whatever tool I like in the receiver. The vise is currently in one of them. The rest of steel stuff. Miller TIG, Jet steel bandsaw and drill press. Miller folding welding table behind TIG This is where I try to isolate wood from steel at the bolt bins. To the left is my Festool Kapex saw. Its on a pull out slide and has FastCap extensions for fences that clip on in about 2 minutes. Bosch L-Boxx storage below bins for misc specialty stuff. To the left of the Kapex is shelving for misc tools, Ridgid belt/oscillating drum sander, wood measuring and squares (on wall), charging station for tools and toolbox full of hand tools. Wood clamps above. Center island work bench that gets used for everything. Its made from some old bank cabinets with 1.5" thick top. General purpose vise on this one. This bench gets used for most projects. Wood projects, electrical projects, nitrous oxide upgrades Towards the other side of shop is my Grizzly table saw, custom built bench for my Festool table (sitting on top without legs), Festool systainers and Incra router lift. Pegboard doors in corner hold tools and have 3' deep shelves behind for material storage. Air compressor underneath. Grizzly Band Saw and shop fox drill press. This bench is for computer work and electrical for the most part and a place to pile tools when I run out of space during a project build. The rolling cart underneath is something I just finished for my Dewalt planer. Has a flip top on it so I can rotate planer down to clear the bench. The other side (currently up) has a section of Festool MFT table from an old top that I can use dogs and clamp on. And looking back the other direction shows another view. Yes, I have two man doors and both of them are blocked. Not a great subject with the Mrs. Thanks for the invite John. Rich