stductwork

Exactly. Just for argument's sake, you buy a snide battery at half the cost of a genuine that's sold as a 5ah but turns out to be a 4ah, it's going to cost a damn lot less than a genuine 4ah. It's not really an argument I can see that isn't baseless in reality. Most knock off gear is just a replica of genuine and the Chinese are very good at it. All my batteries are genuine, would I write off copies? Not at all. Infact I'm starting to see more and more people using copies over genuine in the field. A guy I've been working with the last few months uses copy makita and Milwaukee batteries and he said to me he's very unlikely to buy genuine again. But my original point which has been overlooked which is if third party manufacturers can offer a higher capacity (granted on paper) battery for less money, the tool companies have to start producing either a higher capacity battery at more competitive price or they'll eventually lose out.

Of course you wouldn't. That's why Makita and the other big brands get away with a 60% profit margin on what is essentially a few lithium cells spot welded together. I've had enough batteries in pieces to realise there's just as much chance as a genuine battery failing as there is a knock off.

Just tried this with my DCE088D1G and while you can strike a line on an incline, the flashing warning happens more frequently - 3 flashes and a solid beam for 5 or so seconds.

Found applications for patents on a 18x2 Coffee Machine and an 18v Cordless Kettle.

Some of the stuff I use daily on site. I have other bits and pieces that I don't have photos of.

The trick with most routers is to not let go while they're turned on.

I believe the code DRT50ZX2J would indicate Z- Bare tool X2J, 2x 5ah batteries. Looking at the two prices $100 AUD more for 2 batteries is good but I wouldn't expect a case and charger in with that.

I don't see why not, AvE had a knock off milwaukee and it out performed a genuine battery.

All depends on what the work is. I can take on some contracts and the spec will be all rivets and no screws and in that instance it's something that I wouldn't consider going without. Current job I've been on is all rivets so it's had a lot of use. Down to preference, I do prefer rivets to screws but they're not always practical. I just have a Makita DDF483 to hand and drill bits to match rivets used. Punching isn't really something I can do on site.

I found a set of the picture attached once in a pile of rubbish I'd swept up in a dark corner of a room I was working in. No idea who left them there but who ever it was, they weren't coming back for them so I held on to them. Ended up keeping them. I saw the price retail (£50ish) and thought who ever the did belong to must have been kicking themselves. Eh. However, I'm glad I'd never bought them because frankly, they aren't worth what they cost. Not sure if this is true of all knipex pliers but I've been just as happy with the cheap store brand stuff and if they ever get lost or stolen, I've not lost £50.

I think Makita should really be looking at sorting out their batteries. I've seen cheap chinese knock off companies selling batteries that are higher capacity than what makita offer. I've seen a slim CXT 2.5ah pack and I'm sure I saw a 3ah battery in a 2ah body.

I have one of these. Wouldn't be without it. Have three batteries one of which I had to re-cell myself but was able to up it to about 2.5ah in the smaller battery shell so it lasts for a while between charges now.

Quite the opposite. Very much like rod/stud cutters. I have a Hitachi and the batteries last for weeks between charges and constant daily use. The motors are normally high speed, low torque and the tool is geared to maximise torque so batteries don't have a massive drain. I'd imagine the need for 36v is purely for economy of use. Higher voltage/lower drain on cells. I could be wrong though.

The makita CXT Brushless drill and brushless impact driver are two of my favs. There's also a right angle impact available in Japan. Still waiting on a right angle brushless drill.

What you lose in size and weight with compact hammers you lose in the amount of batteries and chargers you have to carry around. I understand what you mean about working over head but I wouldn't rate this higher than M12 in concrete; that in mind most pipework is on M10 or M12 rod.

Would be useful in a case of desperation if you're traveling light. Certainly has no use otherwise.

Exploded view.

Found another patent that's been filed in the last week including another design for tool mount which could be an alternative to starlock. Not much in the way of illustration for this one.

This is a bad point if it's bruhless. Even worse if it's brushed.

Buy two and ebay one.

I've done a little more reading and it looks as thought Makita have developed a method where by there's a lock-in con-rod that secures the tool against the oscillating engagement plate, released by lifting the leaver. In principal it's the same idea as a starlock tool free tool change but with what could potentially be something else that could get lost. In the grand scheme of things there's not much in it to say it's a lot less convenient. At least now it gives a brushless, easier option for people already on the platform.

Pretty much.

I don't have the link with me. Although it looks somewhat different it'll be a quick release that will mesh with star lock tools as that's the current market trend for OMT. A patent for Makita won't include a star lock design as they don't have rights to include it but could be included at production if the patent owners give way.