khariV Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 With summer in full swing, the my kids have been bugging me to set up their little pool on the front deck. The existing deck is a bit rotted and in such bad shape that I really didn't want to put their pool on it. So I decided to build them a new little deck just for their pool. I spent most of Father's Day leveling the ground, staining the boards and putting it together. Here are a few pictures of the in progress work... When I got to the end, it turns out I didn't count / measure quite correctly, so I ended up having to attach two additional 2x6s on to the rim joist to make it wide enough for two final decking boards. Finally, the top was done! To finish it off and make it look nice, I was planning on attaching 2x12's to each side as a nice frame / border. That's where my latest problem showed up. The deck boards themselves, while "pretty straight" weren't actually 100% straight. Since this is the first time that I have built a deck, I really only paid attention to making sure that I clamped and coerced the boards together with the proper gap. (Two thumbs up btw, for the Camo Marksman hidden deck screw system - a truly excellent product. I'll have to do a mini review in a separate post with my thoughts on how it works.) Anyway, by the time I got the last board into place, I realized that the edge of the last deck board was flush on one end and protruded 1/2" on the other end. This end is flush and ready for the 2x12: This end... not so much: So, now I have to figure out what to do about it. As I figure, there are two options. 1. I could trim the edge of the board to make it flush. I'd have to worry about hitting the deck screws, so they'd have to come out (not really that easy with the Camo Marksman screws, but do-able). Then I'd have to get out the router with a round over bit to route the new edge of the board to give it the rounded profile to match. The last board would then be slightly out of square, but I suppose I could live with this if I really had to. 2. Option 2 would be to cut a 2x4 (several actually) to make a triangular shim to attach to the rim joist. The 2x12 would then attach to this. The downside to this would be the mitered corners on the 2x12 would become slightly more difficult, as they're obviously not a true 45 degrees anymore, but this isn't the end of the world. The 2x12 is going to get fastened into the rim joist with 6" lag screws, so I really doubt there will be any strength issues. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about in case my description doesn't make sense. Option 2 seems easier and would keep the top profile of the boards square. Option 1 is more complex obviously. Is there a compelling reason to do one over the other? The next time I build a deck, I'll obviously pay more attention to adjusting the boards to keep the edge profile squared up, but this one is already built and I really don't want to take it apart to adjust for a few 16ths of an inch on each board. I'm open to any and all input. thanks 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimboS1ice Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 Unless it really bothers you, I wouldn't mess with it, looks good dude Jimbo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryNY Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 Why not replace the 2x12 that has no overhang with a 1x12 to have overhangs on both sides and call it a day? Either way it looks fine the way it is, you can't really see both sides at the same time up close. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khariV Posted June 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 I think I may not have done the best job describing my problem. The deck that is in the pictures is built with all 2x6s, including the rim joists. Those are the light brown in this pic. Here's what I was trying to do. My intention was to "frame" the outside of the deck with dark stained 2x12s to give it a more finished look as well as to hide the concrete piers. These were to be flush with the top of the decking, attached to the rim joists and are more or less trim. The 2x12's aren't on there right now. The problem is the 2x12 can't sit flush against both the decking and the underlying rim joist 2x6. Taking the 5/4" decking into consideration, here's what would happen with the 2x12. So, fill the gap or shave down the decking so that the 2x12 is flush. That's the question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Julian Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 Without question, I would do option 1. Trim the overhang and move on. Although, if you do that, use a router and round over the edge to knock off the hard edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryNY Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 Yeah I see the problem. If you use 1x12 fascia boards you can shim them to be even along the edge, assuming it isn't more than an inch or so out from the most proud point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Glassey Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 Looks great to me KhariV, I would leave it, but being that you know it's there it will always be haunting you! Lol option 2 seems to be the best alternative. Good luck with it. And enjoy it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khariV Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 This week, it finally stopped raining long enough for me to finish staining the 2x12s for the fascia boards for the deck. I took the day off of work yesterday to get stuff done around the house, and actually managed to finish a project! So, in all of it's glory here's my little deck. Because I'm a nub, I learn something new with every project. Here's the haul from this one. 1. Don't blow away sawdust and dirt right after touching up stain. 2. "No drilling required" doesn't mean squat when you're 1" away from the edge of a board (I really should have known this already) 3. Just because a deck is square and level at the top doesn't mean that the sides are vertically square at the bottom (the front 2x12 is actually cut as a trapezoid - it's 1/2" wider at the bottom) 4. I really hate oil based paint. You can't really tell by the pics, but I went with the trim / rout option for the problem I mentioned above. Thanks to the whole crew for your insight and suggestions. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foneguy Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Beautiful finished product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMack37 Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Dude, that looks awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryNY Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Looks great; I know what you mean about the blowing dust after a finish. I froze one time when I started doing that realizing that dust was going to stick to my new finish and had that "oh crap" moment before taking my finger off the trigger and stepping away from the blower. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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