DeWalt D55152 Compressor: Is my motor toast??

[TXChinook]

My D55152 has served my well for maybe 8 years.  I recently started a new framing project.  OK so far.  Then, last week, it started very "feebly"; slow motor for 5 seconds then full power.  The next day, the motor would not start at all.  Nothing, nada, nary a squeak.  Oil is on the lower third of the dip stick but is clear.  Tanks are empty.  Temperature is circa 45 degrees in the shop.  I understand the oil may be too thick and the compressor may have to labor but the motor should at least try...

 

The compressor is always plugged directly into a 20A circuit with no extension cord.

 

I plan to remove the block that attaches to the top tank where the pump output is connected.  There's a line from this block to the switch and also a small, brass fitting with a tiny hole.  Something there may be the issue.  Perhaps if those items are disconnected, the motor will get power.

 

If not, I fear the motor is toast... :-(((

[TXChinook]

Here's an update.  The motor is fine.  I took the cover off the switch assembly and hard-wired the inputs to the motor.  The motor roared to life!!

 

I did not remove the whole block as originally proposed but I did disconnect the tube from the block to the motor assembly.

 

So what is the problem?  It's either: 1) something in the switch assembly, or 2) something in the block where the tube from the switch assembly is connected.

 

Any thoughts?  Thanks

[TXChinook]

I should have added that the problem is almost certainly in the block... but what?  What does this block do?

[DR99]

It's probably the compressor pressure switch. It turns the compressor motor off when its reached the proper pressure.

[TXChinook]

Where is the compressor pressure switch?  I reconnected the pressure tube to the aforementioned block and now everything seems to work fine.  I'm happy but I'd sure like to know what happened...

 

Completely unrelated but I need to replace the drain valve that broke off in my hands when turning it to drain the tank.  No excessive force, just a gentle turn and then "boink"...  I got the three threads out that were left inside the tank fitting ;-)

[Kevin121401]

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-d55152-type-compressor-parts-c-1009_3079_3939.html    this is where I get my parts for the D55152

[Gatorb888]

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-d55152-type-compressor-parts-c-1009_3079_3939.html    this is where I get my parts for the D55152

 

Much cheaper on Dewalts website for that pressure switch: http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail?isId=true&productNumber=D55152&selectedType=17311

 

Pressure Switch: 629406-00

Drain Valve: 5140038-49

[TXChinook]

Thanks for the parts info.  I've already ordered a new SS drain valve from Amazon and it was nearly $20 with tax and handling.

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PZWIF8/ref=pe_385040_127541860_TE_3p_dp_1

 

But I don't know what the body of the DeWalt valve is made of.  Mine twisted off with only finger effort.  I don't think it was ever knocked.  It had no rust so maybe SS but why so soft?  The Amazon valve is rated to 1000 psi so I'm thinking it will be more robust.

 

Back to my pressure block-manifold question.  Can someone explain what is going on here.  I'm talking about the brass "manifold" that attaches to the top tank and has connections for the copper pump output air line, some kind of brass bleed fitting (small brass part with a tiny hole) and a pressure line going to the switch.

 

To get my unit to run again, I basically just disconnected the switch pressure line and then reconnected it.  What was going on there?

 

Thanks for everyone's help.