Frain20

Has anybody had any trouble using an extractor with there circular saw? I attached mine today,Firstly i couldn't get an extractor to fit the outlet directly ..Secondly,when I did manage to rig a pipe up to fit with the extractor turned on, it seemed to statically charge the outlet making the material being cut (mdf) to stick to the side of the outlet..rendering it useless and not an option..Is there any other accessories that make the process a lot cleaner...

Definitely one to keep an eye on..Ryobi have some really innovative products..They just need tweaking here and there for them to be directed at the professional/contactor market..

Uk Customers can get them from ITS from the 5th August.. £89.99 excluding vat!! Much cheaper than the USA

Ok so today I've been back today to do an access ramp in the lodge and the pavillion looks amazing..The pictures probably won't do it any justice but everyone loves it..I've attached some of the lodge/access ramp I knocked together..

cheers for the comments..The jobs finished now and I forgot to take any photos of the fully finished pavilion,but il probably head back there with the Digital slr and get some proper photos within the next month or so..

That thing is brutal...how long till theres an accident with one tho..I'l give it a few weeks

Noticed this in there News letter I received..I'm interested in the hammer but I'm quite skeptical of it.. I'm guessing it's all Stanley tools branded Dewalt though??? I'm also interested to see what the Limited lifetime warranty* covers

Nice decking job! What do you think of the irwin evo saw you have there? I bought one when they first came out and couldn't get used to it.Ended up buying another this wknd gone and I still dont like them..usless if you need to square a piece of 2x1

Sorry should of been more specific the 18v Dewalt DCH253M2 sds compared to the Dewalt DCH363D2 36V SDS There's not much between them on paper..

How good is the 36v compared to 18v hammer drill? Can't seem to find any videos of the 36v..

Has DeWalt given up on there 36v line now?

your shop looks huge...loving the boat!! Always wanted one but i need a house first haha ..maybe one day..

Few more pictures of the pavilion & lodge,still waiting on some door furniture and the glazers to show up. Had a few issues with the casements being all out of shape as there cast..They got sent back to the manufacturer and ground down as per to the original jig size they got sent.. its coming along though..

Quality work right there..loving the shower floor!

An extract from Gearheaddiva.com Blackboard ChalkStore a few pieces of blackboard chalk in each compartment of your toolbox that contains metal tools or other hardware and it will absorb the moisture before it gets a chance to go to school on your tools. Coal/CharcoalNot only will it grill up a delicious steak, using a few pieces in your toolbox will absorb enough oxygen to help inhibit the rusting process. Silica Gel PacksYou can find these in new shoe boxes, at the bottom of purses, or packaged with any item that has to stay dry. If you’re stuck in the shoe department while your significant other shops, it’s a good opportunity to build a good supply because they’re usually sprinkled all over the floors. Toss a few in each drawer of your toolbox to absorb moisture. It’s important to periodically dry them out so they can be reused or else they’ll eventually start leaking once fully saturated. Hold each pack for about 15 minutes in front of a warm bright light bulb and they’ll be ready to go to work again. Moth Balls or CamphorCamphor emits a gas that interferes with oxidation and works pretty well to prevent tools from rusting. Place a cube of camphor and a few ordinary moth balls in your toolbox for a more complete attack on rust – camphor will block the reaction while moth balls absorb moisture. CoatingsThere’s a reason that greasy tools rarely get rusty. A thin film of oil like mineral or camellia oil, or even paste wax is an excellent rust inhibitor minus the grit. After oiling your tools, wipe off the excess until you’re barely able to feel the oil. Even an ultra thin coat is enough of a barrier against moisture. Other more controversial coatings I’ve seen used are motor oil, WD-40, and furniture polish. Whatever coating you choose, the key is to reapply often. Climate ControlThe root cause of rust is moisture so if you have a humid shop, you’re going to get rust. Running a dehumidifier may sound expensive but how much did you pay for some of those prized tools? It’s also taken a lot of time to build up your arsenal so there’s more than just money invested in them. A dehumidifier costs less to run than you may think and protects your investment at the source. Micro ClimatesAlthough those wall racks are a convenient way to have your tools at the ready they’re constantly exposed to the moisture in your shop. If running a dehumidifier isn’t an option, consider creating a micro-climate for your tools with a tool chest. A tight-fitting lid goes a long way to controlling humidity and allowing you to create a separate dry environment within your shop.

Ive got a T stak 1 case which I hacked Tools In Action style to fit my dcd985 & dcf895 cordless's ,I tend to use the upper organiser for storing bits and bobs that i use on a daily basis ,Anyway i had a urgent job to do for my boss on a late night ,which was a mock door with full door furniture for the client/architect to have a look at..The door was situated in a messy cabin on the grounds of the worksite and i literally didn't have any room to put my T-Stack case anywhere other than outside the cabin...Mid way lock morticing i realised it was lashing down with rain..I had a peer out to find my organiser tray was full of water as i hadn't shut the thing.."My fault I know" I drained all the water and had a quick spruce up,but it was inevitable My bits would start rusting... Now I never really thought about using a Rust/Moisture Inhibitor until this happened and its quite easy to overlook it..We all spend vast amounts of money on tool boxes that are super impact/water resistant and we never stop and think of protecting them from the moisture that gets locked in the box.. Who on here use's a moisture inhibitor & what products are u using to protect from rust/moisture???

So jealous of your Dewalt goodness!

Makita have 2 small rubber cylinders in the base of there drill to combat the movement Im interested to know why Dewalt decided they didn't need something similar for there cordless range..

I'm glad you stepped in DR99...have a look at this video ! I've had a look at spare parts to cost it all up but it's not worth it,The new trigger is £90 on its own

so i bought the Dc212 along time ago and I've not really used is as the runtime on my old ni-cd batteries where shocking.. Now I've heard you can convert the Dc390 to the Dcs391 Do you know if its possible to convert my DC212 to Dch253

I'm not jealous at all...honest! Lol

Pics or it's not true! haha

Think Harold is onto something there..

A couple of years ago I was in the market for a surform,after trawling eBay for a while I stumbled upon this one..I knew I had to have it & managed to secure it for a mere £4 great British pounds..The reason I bought it was purely the fact that it was quite old and still in its original box with the instructions,but most of all the drawing of the people using the surform on material it was shockingly marketed for.. •wood •plastics •metal •asbestos!! Obviously it's been a good few years since this was made and the risks of asbestos are now well known.. It's a nice little tool and il never use it just because of the history..A nice little time piece of the older generation builders..

Wouldn't be bad if they did a cordless version,I normally use my router for the hinge jig,lock jig and sometimes you can be setting up a roller lead for one door on the top floor,all for what is a 4mm plunge cut..