overanalyze

That is a great jigsaw. Comfortable to use and plenty of power. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Somewhat. It would need more torque and probably need to run at a slower speed. When we frame our homes and additions we screw down the subfloor vs nailing. Not tripping over a cord doing this would be nice. We have a couple Senco duraspin models. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

The venting of a roof is more important for attics than vaulted ceilings. Time and research has shown this. It isn't conventional thinking so not venting a roof assembly gets some opposition from old school inspectors and those who haven't done research. I love that building science site because they have years and years of different techniques in practice to watch the results.

Thought of a good tool to have on this platform. A brushless high torque collated floor screwer. We have a Senco AC model and love it. We screw all our subfloors down and can use it for tile underlayment too. Being able to be cordless would make things so much nicer on a new construction site. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Yes A is the method. Here is another very good read that was updated recently. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-build-insulated-cathedral-ceiling I don't think there would be an issue with placing the facing against the styrofoam but I would do a bit more research. My biggest concern would be the paper face creating wrinkles between the two layers and creating air pockets that could lead to condensation. Make note of the chart in the above article. It gives you the minimum R value of the air impermeable insulation (Dow type dense styrofoam) for each climate zone before switching to the fiberglass. The reason you don't want 2 vapor barriers is it can trap moisture and cause big problems. You still need the ability for the little bit of vapor/moisture to dry to one side...in your case the interior. Also drywall needs installed afterwards. I hope this helps. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

I will have some time later to respond more in depth. Do NOT do 2 vapor vapor barriers! The Foam is one. After that you only want to use unfaced fiberglass.

R-38 could be correct but the type of insualtion is also very important. Read up on vented vs non-vented. http://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-149-unvented-roof-assemblies-for-all-climates Lots of good info on that website. Condensation is a very big concern with fiberglass and vaulted roof assemblies. If you want to maintain a venting space, nail up 1x1's in the corners of the rafter bays. Then cut 1/4 plywood to fit in between the cavities. Nail/staple that to the 1x's. Now have a few inches of closed cell spray foam applied or install ridgid styrofoam snuggly up against that before adding fiberglass. If you go the styrofoam route, be sure to use expanding foam between the seems and tape them with housewrap tape. Do you have any can lights in the rafter bays? Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Where do you live? Climate zone is a huge factor in the correct method. Cathedral ceilings are a little more sensitive than a regular attic.

Banner Year

Freaking awesome place! Congrats! That will make a great shop for you Chris! Looking forward to your new shop 2.0 thread. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Window weight

Earth Ground Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Reactor Radiation

Beer Goggles

Tap Root

Crop insurance

Bit box

I have really been eyeing this saw but one thing has me holding back...no rafter/lumber hook! Seems like a normal thing to have today. Why did they leave that off? Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Fed Ex Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Why not? To many amps for the older tools? Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Wonder if he will pimp it with the new 60v batts?

I want one!

Another fan of Bosch jigsaw blades. Their progressive cut ones are nice. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Work Van Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Yep..it sounded good in theory but reality is people are very used to and ok with swapping a battery and keeping one on a charger.